The most common thing is this: a string of beads is hung on the hair clasp and shaken.
There are several beads on the gorgeous crown, which is even more elegant.
Their official name is "tassel", which is different from walking.
Clear silver, gold-plated dots, emerald beads, tassels, collected in the Palace Museum.
Fringe, commonly known as "carrying a load", belongs to the category of walking and shaking.
Gold-plated kingfisher frame in China National Museum
0 1.
What is shaking step?
The gait is much higher than the tassel level, because we are different.
In the Han dynasty, walking was part of the queen's costume.
The clothes of the queen's palace, silkworms, cyan and pale are all deep clothes, and the hidden leaders are bound by brocade. Fake knot walking, hairpin. -"The History of the Later Han Dynasty, Yu Fu Zhi"
It is also the exclusive ritual jewelry of harem concubines.
After the Han Dynasty, Buyao gradually became popular among the people.
In ancient times, the clothes of concubines attracted people's attention. Even a small hairpin should reflect the difference, it just announces the difference of status and rank from head to toe.
The sculptor of Shenyang Palace Museum moved the inlaid basket jade step by step. Source: arterial shadow.
02.
One step and three shakes, shake, shake, shake.
Beads hung on the steps and the steps shook. (Explanation of Names and Jewelry) This is the charm of walking, which adds a graceful and dynamic beauty to women.
Zhu Hua is intertwined with jade, while roses are among precious leaves. Cutting a lotus is not like making a lotus, because flowers are like life. The low branches brushed the embroidered collar, and the small steps touched Yao Ying. But when the cloud bun is inserted, the moth eyebrow becomes easy. -Shen's "Singing Flowers"
A woman with a good face, with a walking flower in her bun, moves lightly in the lotus step and dances slightly.
Walking, shaking slightly is charming.
Source: WeChat official account Black Cat Museum
On the night of spring, the warm hibiscus curtains covered her fluttering hair, petals on her cheeks and golden ripples on her head. But the night in spring is short and the sun rises too fast. Since then, the emperor has given up his early hearing. (Bai Juyi's Song of Eternal Sorrow)
The beauty in the golden steps is disturbing. To put it mildly, it's like seeing a beautiful woman wearing stockings, full of temptation.
When Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty saw Yang Yuhuan flamboyant, he couldn't restrain his inner flame, so he went to the Spring Festival Evening instead of the morning.
Walking, breathtaking beauty.
03.
The tassel is a kind of walking wave, including hanging beads, Jue beasts and flower trees.
Ladies in Silk Paintings Unearthed from No.1 Han Tomb in Mawangdui, Changsha
China Academy of Sciences Hunan Museum and Archaeology Institute.
Changsha Mawangdui No.1 Han Tomb
Beads hang down and shake, just like tassels, and hang down and shake when walking. The difference is that the beading step is to stick a few filaments forward from the head of the hairpin ornament, and the white beads are hung on the filaments in front of the forehead, not on both sides of the head.
Appeared in the Warring States Period and was popular in the Han Dynasty.
There is also a gait that we didn't notice. They don't hang down and shake, but they can shake when they are worn like hats.
Look at these two pictures.
Dongdong on a woman's head
↓↓↓
Gu Kaizhi's Silk Painting "The History of Women" in the Eastern Jin Dynasty.
The earliest extant true picture of female history is a copy of Tang Dynasty.
Now in the British Museum.
The map of female historical treasures (Song codex) is in the Palace Museum.
Gu Kaizhi Lienv Renzhi Map Volume (Song Mo)
This is a dance shake.
Wearing a crown, you can still sway.
The main part of the walking swing can be a beast or a flower branch, and the branch is made of thin silver wire and copper wire in a spiral shape. Like spring, flowers tremble when they walk. This technology is also very useful in today's decorations.
The branches are in the shape of Jue and Rui beast, and there are flower leaf-shaking ornaments with white beads, which are called Jue beast to go.
The Book of the Later Han Dynasty "Yu Fu Zhi" contains the queen's clothes for entering the palace. "Taking gold as the mountain theme, taking white beads as cassia twig, one must be nine flowers, one bear, one tiger, one red scorpion, one deer, evil spirits and six beasts of Nanshan Fengdat."
Mrs. Xu Mu in "Women's Tales"
(Eastern Jin Dynasty) Gu Kaizhi's The Benevolence of a Fierce Woman
Flowers and trees are swaying. There are branches and leaves, no animals and no pearls. Very thin pure gold leaves hang down from the top, the golden branches tremble and the leaves dance.
The Golden Leaping Age of Flower Trees —— Jin () Collected in Liaoning Provincial Museum
"The Beast Walks" and "The Flower Tree Walks" are composed of two key parts: "Mountain Title" and "Guizhi Xiangmiao".
It is a misunderstanding of Guizhi to take gold as the mountain title and penetrate white beads. -"Continued Han Shu Yu Fu Zhi"
The mountain topic is simply the foundation of walking, like a mountain.
Guizhi is misunderstood by each other, that is, the branches and leaves are intertwined and take care of each other.
The National Museum of Northern Dynasties Matou Antlers-shaped Jinbu Kiln
Image source: arterial shadow
Buyao, it sounds like China's name, not unique to us. Archaeological findings show that gold products were influenced by Chinese and Western subcultures and were introduced to China around the Han Dynasty.
Gold cloth unearthed from Da Yue's tomb in the autumn of the Balkan.
Excerpted from the Central Part of Volume 15 of the Complete Works of World Fine Arts.
/kloc-in 0/830, Francis Rosell, the seventh Duke of Bedford, produced by Jean-Baptiste Jefferson, ordered this crown from Shangmei for his beloved wife Anna Maria.
The branches above have springs.
Material: gold, silver, diamonds
Image source: arterial shadow
Does the walking crown above feel familiar?
exactly
Queen mother, queen and princess crown
Diana Spencer, Princess Diana of England
Birthday hat?
Haha, suddenly realize! Perhaps it is really inspired by the historical design of the steps.