Yu Qiuyu: "Mogao Grottoes"
1
Opposite the Mogao Grottoes is Sanwei Mountain. "The Classic of Mountains and Seas" records, "Shun chased three seedlings and encountered three dangers." It can be seen that it is the early barrier of Chinese civilization, and it has long been indistinguishable from mythology. How that battle was fought is hard to imagine now
But the mighty Central Plains army must have come. At that time, the entire earth was still sparsely populated, and the clatter of horse hooves seemed empty and loud. To allow such a dangerous mountain to serve as the screen wall of the Mogao Grottoes is so majestic that it cannot be matched by manpower. It can only be an arrangement of God.
In AD 366, a monk came here. His name is Le Zun. He has a pure moral character and a peaceful mind. He holds a tin staff and travels around the countryside. It was already evening, and he wanted to find a place to stay. When I was looking around at the top of the peak, I suddenly saw a strange scene: Sanwei Mountain's golden light was shining brightly, and it looked like thousands of Buddhas were leaping. Is it sunset? No, the sunset
is in the west, corresponding to the golden light of Sanwei Mountain.
There are many explanations for the traces of the Three Crisis Golden Light by later generations, so I don’t want to discuss them here. Anyway, Monk Lezun was very excited at that moment
. He stood in a daze, with the burning golden light in front of him and the colorful sunset behind him. His whole body was illuminated red, and the tin staff in his hand became as transparent as crystal. He stood in a daze, there was no sound between heaven and earth, only the overflow of light and the shroud of color. He had a vision, stuck his tin staff on the ground, knelt down solemnly, and made a vow that from now on he would make alms widely, build caves and statues here, and make it truly a holy place. After the monk finished his vow, the flames of both parties were dimmed, and the vast sandy plain was covered with a blue sky.
Soon, the construction of Monk Lezun’s first grotto started. When he was begging for alms, he widely publicized his adventures, and believers from far and near came to pay homage to the scenic spot. As time went by, new caves were dug out one by one. From the princes to the common people, they either built them alone or in joint ventures, putting their faith and prayers on this steep slope. Chisel in. From then on
the history of this mountain range is inseparable from the clang of craftsmen’s axes and chisels.
There are many true artists hidden among the craftsmen. The legacy of the artists of the previous generation provides silent nourishment to the artists of future generations. As a result, this steep slope deep in the desert has absorbed immeasurable talents, standing ethereal and bulging
and becoming mysterious and peaceful.
2
It is very far away from any densely populated city. In the conceivable future, it can only be like this.
It is reserved because of its beauty, and it is hidden away because of its wealth. It insists on making every pilgrim pay for the long-distance hardship
in return.
It was just after the Mid-Autumn Festival when I came here, but the wind was already overwhelming. Along the way, I saw foreigners with red noses from the cold
asking for directions. They didn’t understand Chinese, so they just kept shouting: "Mogao! Mogao!" in a mellow tone, like
Call relatives. Domestic tourists are even more crowded. When the museum closes in the evening, there are still a group of tourists who have just arrived, begging the doorman to open the door in Kukuyang.
I stayed in the Mogao Grottoes for several days. At dusk on the first day, all the tourists were gone, so I wandered back and forth along the foothills of the Mogao Grottoes. It is difficult to sort out the feelings of watching it during the day; I have to look at this hillside and wonder about it again and again, what kind of existence is it?
Compared with the pyramids of Egypt, the great towers of India, and the ruins of the Colosseum in ancient Rome, many cultural relics in China often have layers of history. Relics in other countries are generally built for a while, prospered for a while, and then they are preserved as pure relics for people to admire. This is not the case with the Great Wall of China. It is always built and extended from generation to generation. The Great Wall, as a meandering of space, closely corresponds to the meandering of time. China has a long history, too many wars
and too many sufferings. No pure relic can be preserved for a long time unless it is hidden underground, hiding in a grave
In a secret place not noticed by ordinary people. Epang Palace burned down, Tengwang Pavilion collapsed, and Yellow Crane Tower was recently rebuilt.
The Dujiangyan Irrigation System in Chengdu has been preserved for a long time because it has always performed its water conservancy function. Therefore, all the historical sites that are popular today always have the unique talent of being endless and absorbing through generations.
The reason why the Mogao Grottoes can stand out from other foreign monuments is that they have been accumulated layer by layer for more than a thousand years. When you look at the Mogao Grottoes, you are not looking at specimens that have been dead for a thousand years, but at life that has lived for a thousand years. To be alive for a thousand years, with blood vessels
smooth and breathing even, what a magnificent life this is! Generation after generation of artists are coming towards us, and each artist is involved in the noisy background, holding a procession here that spans thousands of years. The intricate costumes
dazzled our eyes, and the whirring flags filled our ears.
In other places, you can squat down and take a closer look
Playing with a piece of gravel or a ridge of earth, but this is completely impossible here. You are also wrapped up, and you can't help it, stumbling
p>, until it is dissolved by the torrent of history. Here, one's senses are not enough, so just abandon yourself and let countless pairs of artistic hands crush you into light dust.
Therefore, I had to wander back and forth in front of the foot of the mountain at this twilight moment, trying to find myself bit by bit
I must have been shocked. The evening wind picked up, carrying fine sand, which made my cheeks ache. The moon in the desert is also very cold. There is a spring in front of the foot of the mountain, gurgling with sound. I looked up and listened, and finally I had some clues to my thoughts.
I still can’t remember clearly what I saw during the day. I just remember that what I saw at the beginning was a rich green-brown color flow, which should be the remains of the Northern Wei Dynasty. The color is as deep and solid as a three-dimensional painting, and the brushstrokes are as bold and bold as a sword and halberd. In that era, wars were frequent, and there were many brave men from the north galloping on the battlefield. Strength and suffering merged and flowed to the wall of the grotto.
While the craftsmen were painting the cave, Tao Yuanming in the south was drinking wine in his dilapidated home. Tao Yuan
I don’t know what kind of wine Tao Yuanming drank, but what is flowing here is undoubtedly strong liquor. There is no fragrant fragrance, just a force and energy that can make people Like crazy, he drew his sword and stood up. It's a bit cold, a bit wild, and even a bit cruel here;
The flow of color began to be smooth and soft, which must have been after Emperor Wen of the Sui Dynasty unified China. Clothes and patterns have become
gorgeous, with fragrance, warmth, and laughter. This is natural. Emperor Yang of the Sui Dynasty was happily sitting on his royal boat
going south. The newly completed canal was rippling with blue waves, leading to the rare and precious flowers in Yangzhou. Emperor Yang of the Sui Dynasty was too fierce, and the craftsmen would not
follow his laughter, but they have become grand and sophisticated, and it is predicted everywhere that their subordinates will rush out
Something even more astonishing;
The color flow suddenly surged, of course it was in the Tang Dynasty. All the colors that can be seen in the world are sprayed out, but
it is not wild at all, and it is stretched and incorporated into fine and smooth lines, transforming into a magnificent symphony
chapter. Here it is no longer just the temperature of early spring, but the mighty spring breeze, everything is awakening, and every muscle of people wants to jump.
Even the birds are singing and dancing here, and even the flowers are wrapped into patterns, cheering for this world.
The sculptures here all have pulses and breathing, and are filled with smiles and coquettish expressions that last for thousands of years. Every scene here cannot be seen with the eyes
and every corner is enough for you to linger for a long time. There is no repetition here, true joy never repeats
. There is no room for stereotypes here, and there is no room for true humanity. There is nothing here, only human life steaming
. When you enter other caves, you can still think for a moment, but here, as soon as you enter, it will make you feel hot, make you lose your composure, and make you just want to fly with your feet. No matter what the content of the painting is, one look at it will make you exclaim in your heart, this is human beings, this is life
. The most attractive thing in the world is the life signal sent by a group of people who live comfortably. This kind of signal
is magnetism, honey, and the magic well of the vortex. No one can escape from these vortexes, and no one can remain calm in the face of them. This is how the Tang Dynasty should be, and this is how it is considered the Tang Dynasty. Our nation finally has
such a dynasty, and finally has such a moment, which can control the magnificent color flow and command it with determination;
the color flow becomes more refined. , this should be the fifth generation. The majesty of the Tang Dynasty has not died down, but it has gone from hot to warm, from wild to calm. The blue sky above the head seems to be a little smaller, and the breeze in the wild no longer inspires the mind;
It finally becomes a bit gloomy. The dancers look up to the changed sky, and their dance postures begin to become restrained. There is still no lack of elegance, and there are still wonderful strokes from time to time, but the overall cheerful atmosphere is hard to find. Outside the cave, Xin Qiji and Lu You were still holding their swords and singing, their beautiful voices already seeming lonely, while Su Dongpo echoed Tao Yuanming with his peerless genius.
The land of the Song Dynasty was a bit gloomy due to the decline of the slope, the clouds of Neo-Confucianism, and the heavy stalemate;
It is difficult to find red in the color flow. , that must have been in the Yuan Dynasty; ...
After sorting out these hazy impressions for a while, I feel quite tired, like a long-distance traveler. It is said that the murals of Mogao Grottoes are connected together for a total length of sixty miles. I just don’t believe it. The journey of sixty miles is easy for me. How can it be so tiring?
It is late at night and the Mogao Grottoes are completely asleep. It's like looking at the sleeping posture of a strong man. There's nothing strange about it sleeping
It's low, quiet, and bare, just like the hills elsewhere.
3
Early on the third day, I once again joined the crowd to explore the details of the Mogao Grottoes, even though I had no confidence.
There are all kinds of tourists.
Some lined up and listened to the instructors telling Buddhist stories; some held painting tools and copied in the cave; some took out their notes and wrote a few words from time to time, whispering to their partners. Academic topics were discussed. They are like lenses with different focal lengths, facing the same subject, choosing the clarity and blur they need.
The Mogao Grottoes do have a rich depth of field, allowing different
tourists to absorb it. It’s not a bad idea to listen to stories, learn art, explore history, and explore culture. All great art will not just present one side of its life. They exist to be seen, they look forward to the people looking up.
A mural, plus the sighs and sighs in front of the mural, are the three-dimensional life of this mural. Visitors are looking at the mural
and also looking at themselves. As a result, two corridors appeared in front of me: the corridor of art and the corridor of the viewer's soul
; two depths of field also appeared: the depth of field of history and the depth of field of national psychology.
If you just want to listen to Buddhist stories, then its various looks and colors will seem a bit wasteful. If it is just for learning painting techniques, then it will not attract so many ordinary tourists. If it is just for history and culture, then it can only become an illustration in a thick book. It seems much deeper, much more complex, and much more mysterious.
It is a gathering and an inspiration. It deifies human nature, puts it into shape, and uses shape to inspire human nature. Therefore, it has become a colorful dream, a kind of holy precipitation, and an eternal yearning in the heart of the nation.
It is a carnival, a release. In its embrace, gods and humans blend together, and time and space soar. As a result, it allows people to enter myths, fables, and the neon light of cosmic consciousness. Here, carnival is the natural order, release is the natural personality, and the paradise of art is the palace of freedom.
It is a ritual, a religion beyond religion. Buddhist principles have been distilled by the flame of beauty, leaving behind the mystery, purity and mastery that rituals should have. As long as anyone knows about it, he will devote his life to this ritual and accept its baptism and influence.
This ceremony is so grand and extensive. There is even no desert, no Mogao Grottoes, and no Dunhuang. The ceremony
The ceremony has begun from the starting point of the harbor, among the strings of deep footprints in the sand nest, in the tents
in the night wind, in the car Among the pure white bones, on the back of a camel with fluttering hair. The eyes that have shed too many tears have been dulled by the wind and sand, but it doesn't matter. The eyes of the pilgrims coming back from there are so bright. I believe
all those who come for religion will definitely take away feelings beyond religion and store them in their subconscious throughout their lives.
Hidden possessions turned into inheritance, and the next generation of pilgrims became vast again. Why can a Gansu artist just capture a dance here and trigger a nationwide frenzy? How could Zhang Daqian, holding an oil lamp and taking some lines from here, become popular in the world of painting?
It’s just ritual, it’s just human nature, it’s just the deepest hiddenness. It is of little use to speculate too much on their skills
The only success lies in worshiping Dunhuang wholeheartedly. Cai Yuanpei proposed replacing religion with aesthetic education at the beginning of this century. I clearly see here that the highest aesthetic education also has a religious aspect. Perhaps, the future of mankind is to establish a religion about beauty on this planet?
4
After leaving Dunhuang, I traveled elsewhere.
I have been to another Buddhist art resort, which has beautiful mountains and clear waters and convenient transportation. The astute docent relates
Buddhist stories to today's news and behavioral norms, and delivers a quirky moral lesson. The listeners will
smile heartily and sometimes look ashamed. I have also been to a scenic spot with beautiful mountains and rivers. A tour guide pointed to several peaks that resemble human bodies and told chastity stories. The picturesque landscapes immediately turned into moral figures.
The listeners were full of interest and threw themselves on the bow of the boat to identify them carefully.
I am really afraid, afraid that this land will be filled with piles of goodness, crowding out the traces of beauty. For this reason, I miss Mogao Grottoes even more.
When will any generous artist tell me the true secret of the Mogao Grottoes? "Dunhuang" by Japanese Yasushi Inoue
is obviously not satisfactory. Perhaps there should be Chinese Herman. Hesse wrote a book "Narziss and Goldmund" (Narziss und Goldmund), which portrayed the emergence of religious art in such an exciting and modern way. Spirit.
In any case, the noisy, singing and dancing parade should be reunited on this land.
We are the descendants of Feitian.
Appreciation
Mr. Yu Qiuyu's prose is a typical cultural prose. After we are used to seeing exquisite and flexible works that flaunt prose, it presents a bright and fresh scene before our eyes. The scenery is like a strong wind blowing. .It gets rid of the small-minded spirit of indulging in its own small world, and expresses itself as a large prose with more generous and heroic feelings. Of course, it is not a lengthy one, but it embodies a heavy sense of history and vicissitudes, a vast and yet vast feeling. Gun's unpretentious grace and grandeur, an inner impulse and perception of admiring the past and present of heaven and earth, and a kind of wisdom and thinking surging with passion and spirituality. Mr. Yu Qiuyu's prose completes the rational interpretation of the objects represented in rich cultural associations and imaginations. It combines the unconstrained style of Zhuangzi's philosophical prose, Wang Yang's unbridled thinking and the narrative and exaggeration of Han Dynasty Fu style, and the gorgeous and solemn rhetorical method, thus expressing It shows the poetic characteristics that are infiltrated with rational spirit and inner rational interest. The writing is like running clouds and flowing water, and the spirituality is splashing between the scrolls. It has liberal cultural connotations. The pen is filled with a deep sense of national distress, and the lines are filled with wise and philosophical thoughts that have passed through thousands of years.