(1) hairstyle
Qidan women's hair style is simple.
When a woman is unmarried,
I began to grow my hair after marriage and began to comb my hair after marriage.
Generally, all the hair on the top of the head is backlit and tied into a bun, leaving only a small amount of residual decoration on the temple or forehead. The woman's forehead was tied with a belt. Unlike the Khitans, a piece of hair is left in the middle of the bun.
(2) facial makeup
Qidan women like to paint their faces with yellow or gold powder, which is called "Buddha makeup".
In the Song Dynasty, Zhu's "Zhou Ping can talk" recorded: "When I first went to the North for public comment, I saw that there were women in the felt car, with dark yellow face, red eyebrows and black kisses, which was called Buddha makeup."
In the book "Strengthening the Collection, Making the Face Yellow", it is recorded that "Yan vulgar women in Liao Dynasty are colored, and their eyes are fine mothers ... The poet Peng wrote:" There is a woman named fine mother in the sky with yellow on her face ".
Qidan women like veneered flowers, the most popular fish-shaped flowers. It is recorded in Liao History Collection: "The Qidan duck drowned, made into a fish shape, and gave it to the surviving woman to cover it with flowers."
Khitan women's Buddhist makeup is "painted one day" all winter, and it is not washed off until spring. In other words, all winter, women in Qidan have to put on Buddhist makeup and paint their faces yellow, just like wearing a thick yellow mask.
Khitan women's "Buddha makeup" has obvious skin care intention, and it can also be said that it is a surface modification method based on aesthetic and practical purposes. "Buddha makeup" for skin care purposes, does not use lead powder as a base, but directly paints yellow after cleansing. The "forehead yellow" of Central Plains women only dyes yellow pigment on their foreheads, while the "Buddha makeup" covers the whole face.
Han Yuan, a scholar in the Southern Song Dynasty, once said, "You should show your resentment in the snow, wash your lead and try your Buddha's makeup." It is a true reflection of northern women's facial decoration custom that lead should be washed away when "Buddha makeup" is clearly put forward.
(3) Jewelry
Liao Qidan people like to wear earrings, earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings.
Capricorn earrings, amber garlands and shield rings are unique to the Khitans, and can be used by both men and women.
The phoenix-flying shape of earrings, the decorative theme of Hua Die, the doll play, the flowers wrapped on the surface of bracelets, etc. are in the same strain as the headdress art in the Tang and Song Dynasties.
Jinbuyao, the gold faucet shape at the end of the bracelet and the three-dimensional animal decoration on the ring surface reflect the connection with the gold tradition in the northern grassland.
2) Women's wear
(1) group shirt
The tops of women of Khitan nationality in Liao Dynasty and Jurchen nationality in Jin Dynasty are commonly called "group shirts".
The clothes are wide and fat, with straight lapels and crossed lapels, and they are not decorated. There are many underarms on both sides, and there are slits on the side seams. They are usually made of silk, yarn, brocade and cloth. Colors are red, black, gray, light yellow and white.
(2) [chān] skirt
Skirt is a kind of thin skirt that Qidan women in Liao Dynasty like to wear outside their pants.
Generally, the skirt is cut into a semicircle to form two overlapping arc edges around the front, and the waist is covered with dense fine pleats to form a fan-shaped skirt with narrow upper part and wide lower part, which has the effect of lightness, transparency, elegance and bulkiness.
"History of Jin Dynasty, Yu Fu Zhi" records: Qidan "women wear skirts, mostly black and purple, covered with embroidered flowers and covered with six folds [b]. The coat is called a group shirt, made of black and purple or soap and cotton. Straighten your left leg ... sweep the floor in front, drag it more than a foot behind, color it in red and yellow, and hang it down one level in front. The old man wears a soap sarong bun like a towel and sprinkles jade cymbals on it, which is called jade carefree. This is all Liao clothing, and gold also attacks it. "
(3) Defend the waist
Waist protection, also known as leaning on the waist, is a kind of clothing with national characteristics of Qidan people and belongs to waist ornaments.
Maebetaka waist and narrow back, both sides are made of leather, with clouds and other patterns, around the waist.
(4) Fishing pier
Fishing pier refers to a kind of trousers used by the Khitan people, with only two legs and no waist and crotch. Khitan women wear more pants in their skirts. Pants include crotch pants and crotch pants. Pants for oral use are called "fishing pier" or "hanging pier".
(5) shoes
Qidan women don't bind their feet, but wear round-headed high-heeled boots in winter and dye them in different colors. Wear round-headed linen shoes, silk shoes and straw sandals in summer.
(Excerpted from Wang Ming's A Brief History of China Clothing)