History of folk brocade technology in southwest Shandong

The earliest record of Jiaxiang's textile processing can be found in The Warring States Policy, Qin Ce, Qin Wuyang as Gan Mao, among which there is a record of Ceng Zi's mother weaving. In addition, there is a projection of Zeng's mother on the Han stone relief in Wushi Temple in Jiaxiang, in which the oblique loom used by Zeng's mother is the ancestor of vertical looms all over southwest Shandong today. Liu Xiang's Biography of the Shrew of the Western Han Dynasty has a story of "Qiu Hu plays with his wife", which records that Hu Qiu's wife supports her mother-in-law by planting mulberry, and Hu Qiu plays with her in the mulberry forest. Hu Qiu was born in Nanwucheng in the Spring and Autumn Period (now Nanwucheng Site in Jiaxiang County). These historical data show that as early as the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period more than 2,000 years ago, Jiaxiang area was the land of sericulture, and the textile technology was already very high. In Han Dynasty, Kangfu (now Jining) was one of the three textile and garment handicraft centers in China. During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, Sang Ma was widely planted in southwest Shandong, and Sang Ma's textiles developed further. The poems of Li Bai and Du Fu, poets of the Tang Dynasty, such as "Lu people re-weave, looms ring" and "Wan Qi rushes to work, men plow and women mulberry, and they don't lose each other", describe the grand occasion of Shandong textile industry in the Tang Dynasty. In the Song Dynasty, silk and linen fabrics in southwest Shandong were famous at home and abroad.

In the Yuan Dynasty, it became more and more common to grow cotton in the Yellow River basin and use cotton as raw material for spinning and weaving. People in southwest Shandong combine traditional silk and hemp with cotton textile technology, and the cotton cloth is what we call Lu Jin. The exquisite patterns of cotton diamond-shaped brocade unearthed from Cao Yuan's tomb in Jiaxiang Yuan Dynasty show that Jiaxiang's brocade skills in the early stage of folk life have been very exquisite. At the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, cotton was planted on a large scale in southwest Shandong, and cotton textile technology became more and more mature. During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, with the improvement of weaving tools and the development of textile and printing and dyeing technology, the cotton textile industry in southwest Shandong entered a very prosperous period, and Jin Lu's weaving technology reached a state of perfection. Jin Lu was once presented to the imperial court as a tribute in the Qing Dynasty, and the Institute of Folk Fine Arts of the Central Academy of Fine Arts still has hundreds of kinds of golden deer in the Qing Dynasty. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, with the influx of foreign fabrics and the development of national textile industry, hand-woven Lu brocade was impacted and gradually declined.