Speaking of dressing up, I believe many people will always think of modern women's makeup. It takes two hours to dress up after going out for 20 minutes. They choose clothes and foundation until they get impatient. By the way, did the ancients need such trouble? Are they dressed so well? Let's take a look at how people in the Song Dynasty dressed up every day.
Feudal society was restricted by class, and there were many kinds of costumes in Song Dynasty! There are official clothes and casual clothes, and there are many kinds of casual clothes. Meng Yuan's "Tokyo Land Folklore" records:
"It sells medicine and hexagrams, all with crowns.
As for beggars, there are also norms. A little slack, the public will not allow it.
Hundreds of people from all walks of life, agriculture, industry and commerce, have their own clothes and dare not surpass them.
It is said that if you wrap incense, you wear a high hat on your back;
The quality warehouse (pawn shop) is in charge of things, that is, whether to wear a soapy (black) shirt with a hat or not.
Pedestrians in the market will know what color it is. "
That is to say, in the Song Dynasty, by observing the color of clothes, one can judge a person's occupation, origin, class and so on. Clothes make the man, and the horse depends on the saddle. This proverb is vividly reflected at this time.
In the Song Dynasty, there was another unruly rule, that is, the dress color of a married woman should follow that of her husband, which was unacceptable to many people, so strange clothes appeared. Some people wear their own clothes, others wear foreign clothes, but later the royal family can't stand it. It was once stipulated that beheading was necessary to wear foreign clothes, but they wore all kinds of eyes and gradually let go.
Men's wear in Song Dynasty mainly has these styles: clothes, skirts, shirts, gowns, gowns, coats, straight coats, Taoist robes (gowns), backs, cranes, clothes, sleeves, abdominal circumference and so on.
Through TV series, we often see that the robes in the Song Dynasty are very long, even to the heel, which can be divided into single and clip, and cotton wool is also called long. Later, some rich people made robes with brocade, but most people could only make robes with coarse cloth or white cloth, so they could only wear coarse cloth or white cloth robes. There is also a short brown cloth made of coarse cloth or linen. This kind of clothes is rough and narrow, and the sleeves are short, so it is also called sleeves. This kind of paper is suitable for working or being a servant!
Women's clothing in the Song Dynasty inherited the generous style in the early Tang Dynasty, and large sleeves and wide skirts were popular in the Northern Song Dynasty. But in the middle and late Song Dynasty, the characteristics of narrowness, thinness, length and strangeness became more obvious. At that time, women's clothing was full of tricks. But as long as the external performance is: raft, coat, shirt, half arm, vest and so on! The lower part is mainly skirts and trousers.
The decorative patterns of costumes in Song Dynasty are mostly geometric patterns! Common ones are eight halo, six halo, dish ball and so on. This is mainly embroidered on "Song Jin", and there are other geometric patterns, such as turtle pattern, palindrome pattern, curved water pattern, persimmon pattern, ripple and so on. , widely used by people. Some of them inherited the model of the Tang Dynasty, such as Peony, Camellia and Mei Zhu Lan. This kind of elegant person is the first choice for literati and elegant guests! Mr. Shen Congwen mentioned the brocade of the Song Dynasty in "Research on Ancient Chinese Costume": "The fashion of colorful flowers began to break through the rigid pattern of symmetrical patterns in the Tang Dynasty". What a vivid description of the weaving style and ready-made clothing art of the Song Dynasty at that time!
In terms of the color of brocade, the main style reflected is particularly commensurate with the cultural atmosphere at that time, mainly simple and elegant, which is quite different from the red flowers and purple flowers in the Tang Dynasty! The main colors are: light green, goose yellow, scallion, pink, silver gray and other softer colors, with a unique song rhyme, which looks simple, clean, natural and regular, and has a feeling of being a lady!
Speaking of the costumes of the Song Dynasty, I have to say that there is a kind of leather clothing, which has a unique charm of the Song Dynasty! Ancient leather clothing, like modern leather clothing, is a symbol of status. Generally only rich people can afford it! Qiu Yi is generally made of sheepskin, otter skin, rabbit skin, mink skin, fox skin and other animal skins by hand. We often see descriptions of fur in Tang poetry and Song poetry: for example, in Su Shi's poem, "A mink is crowned with gold, and a thousand people ride Pingshan", while in Jin Shu Chi Chao Biography, it is described that "the northern soil is early cold, and there are few people in the three armies, so I am afraid I can't go to winter". This kind of leather coat is expensive and very warm, but leather products are usually worn by nobles or hunters.
When it comes to clothing fabrics in Song Dynasty, most of them are mainly silk fabrics. Silk products in the Song Dynasty have become famous all over the world. At that time, all the border countries in the northwest traded their cattle and sheep with the Song Dynasty in exchange for silk products. There are many kinds of silk fabrics and various patterns in Song Dynasty. If the case is divided into brocade, yarn, silk, silk, silk and so on. In the tapestry of the Song Dynasty. There are Jin Song and so on, but the most famous is Chengdu Jin Shu. At that time, people improved the satin weaving technology in the Tang Dynasty, focusing on the light and breathable Luo Zhi silk fabric. The production scale and connection of Luo fabrics reached the peak of history in the Song Dynasty. Especially in the hot and humid summer in the south, Luo Zhi products are especially popular.
Generally speaking, the Song Dynasty was a clothing style with various styles. The weaving technology, design style and materials adopted in the Song Dynasty can be said to be the most natural and comfortable in all previous dynasties. It is conceivable that the Song Dynasty at that time spent much effort in enjoying this matter!