It is said that thrush began in the Warring States period. Before there were any specific thrush materials, women burned willow branches and painted them on their eyebrows (strange makeup, preferably modern). The materials used by ancient women thrush changed with the development of the times. According to literature, the earliest thrush material is Dai, a black mineral, also known as "Shi Dai". Before painting, Shi Dai must be ground into powder on the inkstone and then mixed with water. Many Han tombs have found ink stones of the Mohist dynasty, which shows that this cosmetic has been used in the Han Dynasty. In addition to stone wear, there are bronze wear, bluebird head wear and screw wear. Copper generation is a chemical substance similar to copper rust. Green finch head is a kind of dark gray thrush material, which was introduced from the western regions in the Northern and Southern Dynasties. Mother-of-pearl Dai is a thrush material used by women in Sui and Tang Dynasties, which was produced in Persia. It is a kind of Dai block with various prescribed shapes after processing and manufacturing. When it is used, it can only be dipped in water without grinding. Because its appearance and manufacturing process are similar to those of ink ingots for painting and calligraphy, it is also called "graphite" or "thrush ink". In the Song Dynasty, thrush ink was more widely used, and women rarely used Shi Dai again. There are also ways to make thrush ink in the notes of the Song Dynasty. For example, "The Stone Forest" said: "There is a real sesame oil lamp, which is closely rubbed with many lamp holders. Put the oil lamp in the water, light it, cover it with a small device, let the smoke condense and sweep it down. Soak musk deer in less oil three days in advance, pour it into smoke and mix well. The ink can exceed the paint. A method of rotary shearing sesame oil snuff is particularly preferred. This smoked thrush material was euphemistically called "thrush gathers fragrance" in the late Song Dynasty and early Yuan Dynasty. After the Yuan Dynasty, women in the court all chose the eyebrow stone of Zhaitang in Mentougou District, west Beijing, and so did the Ming and Qing Dynasties. By the early 1920s, with the spread of western culture, a series of changes had taken place in women's cosmetics in China. Thrush materials, especially rod-shaped eyebrow pencil and chemically modulated black grease, have been used up to now because of their simple use and portability.
Fang ze rou rou makeup powder
Women in China began to use cosmetic powder at least during the Warring States Period. The oldest cosmetic powder has two components, one is rice flour, and the ancient Chinese characters of powder are separated from rice; There is also a cosmetic powder that turns white lead into mushy facial fat, commonly known as "Hu powder". Because it is made of lead, it is also called "lead flower" or "lead powder". Both powders are applied to the skin surface to keep the skin smooth. The method of making rice noodles is recorded in Qi Min. The most primitive method of making rice noodles is to fill rice juice in a round rice bowl, make it precipitate, make it into white powder greasy "powder English", and then expose it to the sun. The dried powder can be used for makeup. Because this method is simple, it is widely circulated among the people. Until the Tang and Song Dynasties, people still used this method to make rice noodles. There is also a kind of fragrant powder, which is made of corn, similar to it, but made with various spices at last. Because corn itself contains a certain viscosity, it is not easy to fall off when coated on the surface. Compared with rice flour, the production technology of lead powder is much more complicated. From the early literature, the so-called lead powder actually contains many chemical elements such as lead, tin, aluminum and zinc. Lead powder originally used for women's makeup has not been dehydrated, so it is mostly paste. Since the Han dynasty, lead powder has been sucked dry and made into powder or solid. Because of its delicate texture, white color and easy preservation, it is deeply loved by women and has replaced the status of rice flour over time. In addition to simple rice flour and lead powder, there are many famous makeup powders of ancient women. For example, during the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, Duan Qiaoxiao, a court official, mixed rice flour, Hu powder and sunflower seed juice to synthesize "purple powder". In the Tang dynasty, the palace made "butterfly-welcoming powder" from fine millet. In the Song Dynasty, there was a kind of "Jade Girl peach blossom powder" made of gypsum, talc, mussel powder, wax fat, musk deer and motherwort. In the Ming Dynasty, there were "pearl powder" extracted from white jasmine kernel and "Hosta powder" made of Hosta flower and Hu powder. In the Qing dynasty, there were "pearl powder" made of pearls and "stone powder" made of fine stones such as talc. There are also famous producing areas, such as "Hangzhou powder" (also known as official powder) in Zhejiang; "Yang Fanfen" in Jingzhou; Hebei's "fixed powder"; Guilin's "cinnamon powder" and so on, the color of the powder has also increased from the original white to a variety of colors, but also mixed with a variety of precious spices, more attractive. Over the past half century, with the deepening of archaeological work, a large number of cosmetic powders have been unearthed, some in exquisite bowls and some in silk bags. The most distinctive one is the Southern Song Dynasty cosmetic powder unearthed in Fuzhou, Fujian, which is made into powder blocks with specific shapes, such as round, square, quadrilateral, octagonal and sunflower petals. And embossed with concave and convex plum, orchid and lotus patterns.
Ancient cosmetics and makeup
eye make-up
Since ancient times, people have paid great attention to make-up in order to protect their bodies or improve their appearance. In primitive times, people used to smear animal fat, oil, soil and loess on their skin to keep out the cold, prevent heatstroke and prevent insect bites. At that time, human beings lived in vast virgin forests. In order to prevent endemic diseases, they are also keen to engage in superstitious spells to drive away evil spirits. Whenever people hold a sacrificial ceremony, they have to put on makeup.
In ancient Egypt, in order to prevent heat and dry skin, people often applied sesame oil and oily ointment to their skin. In addition, the ancient Egyptians also liked eye makeup, that is, painting green, black or blue pigments on the upper and lower eyelids. It is said that this is to prevent trachoma, flies (there is a kind of flies that can fly into the eyes to lay eggs in ancient tropics) and flying insects from invading, and also to keep out the scorching sun and disinfect. Therefore, when preparing this kind of coated cosmetics, blue-green malachite powder with bactericidal effect is mixed. Later, people began to pay attention to the color of this kind of cosmetics, especially liked the paint made of light black manganese dioxide, and even chose green resin.
According to the research and analysis of ancient mummies, it is found that the upper eyelid of the ancients was painted with black pigment and the lower eyelid was painted with blue-green pigment. The main component of this black pigment is lead sulfide, and the main component of blue-green pigment is malachite (containing a lot of copper sulfate).
In the Middle East, women have long had the custom of painting their eyes blue and black. Today, in some Islamic countries, people can still occasionally see women with heavy makeup around their eyes through thin veils. In ancient Greece, people first painted eyelashes with smoked black, and then painted eyelashes with yellow and white natural rubber paste. At that time, women also liked to extract red dye from henna and apply it to their lips and cheeks.
Eyebrow and lip makeup
According to records, Zhou Wang loves to dye his wife's nails and make up with solidified flower juice. Because this kind of cosmetics originated from Yan State at the earliest, later people called it "Yan Zhi".
As early as the Han Dynasty, lipstick was widely used by women in China. More than 2000 years ago, in the lacquerware dressing box unearthed from the No.1 Han Tomb in Mawangdui, Changsha, besides locks of hair, combs and powder, swallow fat was also found.
Eyebrow pencil, called Dai in ancient times, has a long history. According to documents, Zhang Chang, the governor of Kyoto who served Xuan Di, Emperor Gaozu, loved to paint his wife with blackbirds. At the beginning of the post-Han Dynasty, women in Chang 'an area painted "wide eyebrows", and blue eyebrow pencil was used at that time. In the Tang Dynasty, it was popular to draw moth whiskers (tentacles) eyebrows.
"Red makeup", "red face" and "red face" were also popular in the Tang Dynasty, which means that women apply white powder and then red rouge to their faces before making up. According to legend, Yang Guifei burst into tears when she went to the harem to say goodbye to her parents. When she got on the bus, the tears on her face were frozen into thin red ice because of the cold weather! ..... In addition, there is an interesting legend. Because of her plump figure, the imperial concubine was panting and sweating in midsummer. Every time she wipes her face with a handkerchief, her face turns red.
The great poet of the Tang Dynasty also wrote a poem "Contemporary Makeup", which described the makeup techniques that were popular among Chang 'an women at that time, such as applying black oil to their lips (called "black cream lips") and white powder to their faces.
In 60 1 year, Korean monks spread lipstick to Japan, so all the fairies in the Lucky Fairy Picture were wearing lipstick. However, Japanese women popularized lipstick makeup at the beginning of18th century. At that time, in order to make lipstick thicker, women always put ink on their lips before applying lipstick.
Dot mole and beard make up
/kloc-At the end of 0/7th century, Dot mole's makeup technology became popular among Parisian women. The shape of nevus is divided into star, crescent and circle. Generally, moles are dotted on the forehead, nose, cheeks and lips, but some are hidden in the abdomen, abdomen and legs. Moles are black and red.
According to the propaganda of Saint Denis Street Dot mole Store 1692, the meaning of a mole varies with the location of the mole. For example, the mole on the forehead symbolizes the queen; Pointing at both sides of the nostril shows shame; Click on the eye box to show enthusiasm; Dot mole, whose lips are very close, shows that she loves kissing and is a woman who is not single-minded in love; A mole on the dimple indicates that the owner is a cheerful woman. Of course, these meanings are all imagined.
In addition, men at that time were also "unwilling to lag behind" and it was fashionable to grow beards. This custom once made a lot of noise in society.
It is said that because King Louis XIII of France loved to grow a beard, fashionable men followed suit and grew this kind of beard with the style of a king.
Surprisingly, some men are ingenious and love to apply thick hair cream to their beards, making them hard like wire. In addition, there are fashionable men who love to decorate colorful fake belts at both ends of their beards, and some even use special beard covers, which are beautiful, amazing and jaw-dropping.
Perfume and sesame oil fever
Like ancient India, women in ancient Europe and Asia often used makeup to eliminate sweat and body odor for comfort and attraction. According to the book Egyptian Medicine, the ladies of ancient princes and nobles often used an oil with aromatic substances as cosmetics. At that time, simple distillation was invented to extract sesame oil, but volatile perfume was not invented. This oily sesame oil is added with spices such as musk, Long Xianxiang or myrrh, and the petals of jasmine and saffron are distilled to extract the essence. In ancient Greece and Rome, people dropped perfume into bath water and scrubbed their bodies with sponges soaked in this washing liquid. Ancient China and Japanese loved to use incense. Some women put Long Xianxiang or musk in their private parts.
/kloc-in the 6th century, because Columbus and others discovered the new continent, many newly discovered spices were brought back to Europe, such as cocoa, balsam from Peru, and Hualani spices. At that time, people were superstitious that perfume and sesame oil (especially those containing musk and dragon saliva) could prevent syphilis, so a wave of perfume and sesame oil was quickly set off in society. At that time, a businessman in Florence, Italy, shipped imported spices to Paris for sale and made a fortune. Especially in the18th century, when King Louis ruled France, the sales of spices were huge, and even women's foot washing water had to be mixed with perfume. It is said that at that time, the ladies of Versailles also used a so-called "fart-removing perfume", which was full of fun.
Louis XIV's make-up
/kloc-At the beginning of the 8th century, King Louis XIV of France ruled France, which was called the Rococo Age. It is said that the king would rather shave off his beautiful chestnut blonde curls, put on an "oval wig" and paint his face with red and white powder for beauty. Other princes and nobles in the court also like painting and wearing shoulder-length wigs. As for the king's favorites, concubines and ladies-in-waiting, they have made great efforts in makeup. They sprinkle perfume on their bodies like water to attract men.
Bath beauty is also the goal pursued by those rich men and women. At that time, the most popular bathing beauty method was to bathe with calf's milk and rub and massage the skin with distilled water, grape juice or lemon juice of lily, water lily and tofu to achieve the purpose of whitening. Because at that time, only people with white skin had aristocratic blood.
According to records, the daily beauty schedule of the then king's concubine, Mrs. montes Bond, stipulated that there should be 2-3 hours of makeup time in bed. They rub their skin with perfume, powder and sesame oil to keep their elegant fragrance for a long time, and then coat their bodies with a thick layer of white powder.
However, at that time, lipstick and powder were made of chemicals such as lead, tin, sulfur and mercury. Long-term use of this lipstick and thick makeup powder cake will harden the skin and increase wrinkles. I'm afraid these ladies who pursue beauty can only be beautiful for a while and get old at the earliest. Keywords flower bud, lipstick, rich powder, yellow forehead, Shi Dai, makeup powder,