According to some ancient books, the Han people (and their ancestors) have a unique clothing system. For example, according to historical records, "Hanfu was made by the Yellow Emperor" and "Before the Yellow Emperor, there was no clothing and no house. The Yellow Emperor built houses, made clothes and held funerals, so the people were spared the difficulties of survival. " Before there was no archaeological data to support it, Hanfu first appeared in the Yin and Shang Dynasties. About 5,000 years ago, during Yangshao Culture in Neolithic Age, primitive agriculture and textile industry appeared in China, and clothes were made of woven linen. Huang Di's wife, Ai Zu, invented sericulture and spinning, and people's clothes and costumes became more and more complete.
After the Shang Dynasty, the system of crown service was initially established, and in the Western Zhou Dynasty, the service system was gradually improved, forming a system of chapter service with the "emperor's crown service" as the core. During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the styles of costumes were unprecedentedly rich, mainly deep clothes and Hu clothes. By the end of the Zhou Dynasty, due to the drastic changes in politics, economy, ideology and culture, especially the influence of a hundred schools of thought on the perfection of clothing, there began to be obvious differences in clothing and customs among the vassal States, resulting in deep clothing. The crown service system has been brought into the category of "rule by courtesy" and has become a manifestation of etiquette. Since then, China's clothing system has become more detailed. "The clothes in ancient times were deep clothes, and the clothes representing the characteristics of the times were also deep clothes. The depth of clothes can be the characteristic of ancient clothes. Those who are convinced by the old saying must arrive first. What is a coat? Confucius said in the Book of Rites: "Therefore, those who call it deep clothes should take the rest clothes, and the upper and lower parts are not connected. This kind of deep coat is connected with clothes, and the quilt is deep, so it is called deep coat. "In short, the system of deep clothes is the first of ancient costumes, and the collar of deep clothes has been popular for the longest time not only in its institutional form, but also at the upper and lower levels. At the same time, there are Hu clothes, which are generally composed of shorts, pants and boots. The clothes are tight and narrow, which is convenient for nomadic and hunting. In order to strengthen his army, King Wuling of Zhao adopted Khufu as a military uniform for the first time in the Central Plains. As a result, wearing Hu clothes became a common practice for a time. In addition, musicians wear hoods, dancers have sleeves several feet long, and hunters' clothes and trousers are mostly tightly tied. Some people often wear horns or magpies' tail crowns, long small sleeve dresses and so on.
Future development
After Qin unified China, various systems were established, including the system of dressing. Qin system was widely followed in the early Han Dynasty. Men's and women's clothing in the Western Han Dynasty still followed the form of deep clothes. Cicadas can be divided into medium clothes and deep clothes. There are two kinds of typical women's deep clothes in the Western Han Dynasty: straight and curved, and the tailoring is different from that in the Warring States period. The thick collar of men in the Western Han Dynasty is shoulder-wide, with the right hem straight and the front hem hanging to the ground. In order to facilitate movement, the back hem is cut into a trapezoid from below the knee, so that both sides are dovetail-shaped. Women in the Han Dynasty like to wear long skirts at work. When men worked in the Han dynasty, they wore out trousers and calf nose trousers, and a cloth skirt was worn around the clothes, which could be worn by businessmen, farmers and businessmen.
Plain yarn Zen clothing of Mawangdui Han tomb
By the time of Emperor Han Ming in the East, referring to the clothing system of the Qin Dynasty in the Three Dynasties, the system of crown clothing in the Han Dynasty was established, with crown and hat as the main symbols to distinguish grades. The overall clothing presents a dignified and elegant style. During the Qin and Han dynasties, when men took off their coats, they mainly wore a long sleeve robe, which was divided into Qufu robe and Zhifu robe. They can be worn on other occasions besides sacrificial ceremonies and court meetings. Another feature of the Han dynasty is the implementation of preparation. Women in the Han Dynasty generally combed their hair back and tied it into a bun. There are many names of bun style, and they are invincible. In addition, aristocratic women also put steps and flowers on their heads as decorations. The maid often wraps her head with a towel. Women's clothing in the Han dynasty was deep clothes, which was different from that in the Warring States period. There are also people who wear skirts and trousers. There were also strict grading regulations for shoes in Han Dynasty.
Clothing in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties was influenced by social politics, economy and ideology, and developed from the old system of Wei, Jin, Qin and Han Dynasties to the mutual influence, mutual absorption and gradual integration of all ethnic groups in the Southern and Northern Dynasties. Clothing in this period is mainly characterized by natural and free-spirited, exquisite and ethereal. Covering one's head with towels and silk was the main first dress in this period. What is more popular is a "cage crown" with a cage towel on the small crown. During this period, Han men's clothing was mainly shirts with wide cuffs, and there were no clothes to relieve the bondage. Korean women's hair accessories are also quite distinctive, mainly the popularity of fake bun. Women's dresses in Wei and Jin dynasties inherited the customs of Qin and Han dynasties and improved them on the basis of tradition. Generally speaking, they wear shirts, jackets and flannel, with skirts below. Most styles are frugal on the top and rich on the bottom, with tight clothes, big cuffs, pleated skirts and long and loose hems, achieving a handsome and chic effect.
In the Tang Dynasty, the formal dress was a connecting link between the preceding and the following, and the vestments and uniforms went hand in hand. French dress is a traditional dress, including crown, crown, dress, dress and so on. Official dress, also known as official dress, is a dress worn in general formal occasions, including round neck robes, hoes, belts, boots and so on. Colored clothes have formed a system in the Tang Dynasty. Civilians wear white clothes. The style of women's bun in Tang Dynasty is complicated. Others put golden hairpin and rhinoceros comb on their hair, and aristocratic women make up their faces into goose yellow, flower buds, makeup rollers and so on. Women's clothing in Tang Dynasty mainly includes skirts, tops and wallets. Tang costume is the main dress of women in Tang Dynasty. During the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women used small sleeve as shorts and wore tight-fitting long skirts with high waists, usually above the waist, and some even tied ribbons under their armpits, giving people a pretty and slender feeling. The skirts in the middle Tang Dynasty are wider than those in the early Tang Dynasty, and the others have not changed much.
Clothing in Song Dynasty generally followed the old system of Sui and Tang Dynasties. However, due to years of internal troubles and foreign invasion in the Song Dynasty, and the influence of Zhu Cheng's Neo-Confucianism, the costumes of this period advocated simplicity, preciseness and subtlety. At this time, the soft-footed steamed bread in the Tang Dynasty has evolved into a steamed bread hat lined with wooden bones and covered with lacquer yarn. Emperors and dignitaries wear exhibition feet, tolerances, servants, etc. Confucian scholars wear headscarves. In the Song Dynasty, men's robes were still mainly round neck robes, and officials wore robes except for sacrificial ceremonies, and they were graded in different colors. In the Song Dynasty, the high bun popular in the late Tang Dynasty was the most expensive hairstyle for women, and flower arrangement was also a common practice. The skirts in Song Dynasty are narrower than those in Tang Dynasty, with fine pleats. Shirts are mostly double-breasted to cover skirts.
In the Yuan Dynasty, robes were collectively referred to as robes. There was little difference between the north and the south in style, but the materials were expensive and refined, but the gap was wide. The hairstyles of Han men have not changed much, but the hairstyles of Han women in the north are simpler than before. At the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, he tried to eliminate the influence of Mongolian clothing system in Yuan Dynasty on Hanfu, and "told me to restore clothes made in Tang Dynasty", but it was not fully implemented. It was not until the twenty-sixth year of Hongwu that many uniforms were determined. During the Ming dynasty, cotton cloth was popularized and the cloth of ordinary people was improved. The main first clothes of officials in Ming Dynasty are slightly different from those in Song and Yuan Dynasties. Ordinary people's clothes are long, short, tops or skirts, which basically inherit the traditional clothing style and have a very rich variety. During the Ming Dynasty, in addition to hats handed down from generation to generation, Zhu Yuanzhang personally formulated two kinds of hats, which were promulgated throughout the country and used by ordinary people, namely Liuhe unified hat and Sifang flat-topped towel.
Change the hairstyle of Manchu, change the clothing of Manchu.
In order to weaken the national identity of the Han people and maintain the rule of Manchuria, the rulers of the Qing Dynasty practiced "shaving and changing clothes", and those who wore clothes and tied their hair were treated as felonies. After the Manchu entered the customs, they ordered the Han people to shave their hair and change clothes. "Clothes should respect the system of the dynasty." In May of the first year of Shunzhi (1644), the Regent and Prince Shuo Rui issued an order: "Some castles in various places are trying to send people to hold their hands and wave ... Some people who say they are obedient but don't shave their heads are skeptical and wait and see. Might as well check the distance of the place, set a deadline and go to Beijing to show their goodwill. If the limit is not reached, it is obviously resistance. Since then, the Qing court has repeatedly issued decrees on shaving and changing clothes.
Narrow Sleeve Roller Unearthed from Female Tomb in Southern Song Dynasty
In the second year of Shunzhi, the Qing army captured the provinces in the south of the Yangtze River, and the Qing government ordered the implementation of the system of shaving and changing clothes throughout the country. The Qing government once again issued a haircut order, demanding that "all provinces and regions in Zhili should shave their hair on the day when the Ministry arrives, and on the tenth day." If there is really a "system that still exists in the Ming Dynasty and does not follow the system of the present dynasty, it is unforgivable to kill people." In line with this, it is necessary to forcibly change the clothing style of the Han people. At that time, countless people were killed for wearing Hanfu. Jiangyin people rose up to resist and persisted in the war of resistance for three months. If the city is broken, the whole people will fight to death. All men, women and children surrendered. Jiading people also persisted in their struggle for more than two months, and were brutally slaughtered by Qing soldiers, which turned into an unprecedented brutal tragedy in the history of China. At that time, due to the destruction of agriculture and handicrafts by feudal rulers in the late Ming Dynasty and the suppression of the uprising by government troops, many places in China were deserted and devastated. Along with this cruel policy, it is to change the crown and clothes. The Qing court once again used decrees to force Han soldiers and civilians to change into Manchu costumes. Some rural farmers, because they didn't know the court decrees, occasionally wore clothes from the Ming Dynasty and went to town. Most of them stripped off their clothes and survived. It can be seen that the replacement of the crown suit, like the haircut order, is implemented by compulsory means.
The long-term resistance struggle of the Han nationality made the Qing government consider making some concessions to stabilize the situation. Therefore, the so-called "ten obedience and ten disobedience" is put forward, that is, men do not obey women, life does not obey death, yang does not obey yin, officials do not obey officials, old people do not obey, Confucianism does not follow Buddhism and Taoism, and it is advocated. As well as being an official, disobedient in marriage, disobedient in country name, disobedient in tax payment and disobedient in language. This limited concession eventually retained some characteristics of Hanfu, but on the whole, Hanfu gradually died out under the bloody suppression and slaughter of the Qing rulers. In the history of more than 200 years in the Qing Dynasty, Han men's costumes were basically full-dressed, and cheongsam, gown and mandarin jacket were the improvement and development of Manchu-dominated national costumes, rather than the traditional costumes of Han people.