Huangshan Notes
Xu Chi
1
Nature is sublime, outstanding and beautiful. It takes great pains to create the world. It created the human world and arranged a wonderful place. It selected the mountainous area of ??southern Anhui. It was a generous move, using the method of volcanic eruption to quickly distribute so many granite peaks in a round area of ??120 kilometers around and covering an area of ??more than 1,000 square kilometers. It cleverly combines thirty-six major peaks and thirty-six small peaks. The peak is next to the deep valley; the deep pool is next to the Tianzhu. These cinnabar, red and purple peaks are clustered in front and behind, with varying heights. The three main peaks stand tall and strong, holding up the sky.
After being arranged in this way, it opened its cloud library and allocated to this area, there are clouds that come and go quickly, confusing fog, beautiful and colorful sunset, and sea of ??clouds with rolling snow waves. The five seas of clouds are like five oceans, surging and surging. The peaks hit by the snow waves are either swallowed up, or the tops are exposed, sinking and floating in it. Then, nature generously gave thousands of plants. It is scattered with heavenly flowers and alpine rhododendrons. It also specially entrusted the God of Wind to bring precious pine tree seeds and sow them in strategic places. Huangshan pine has iron bones and ice muscle; Allocarpus pine is rare in the world. In this way, nature takes the purple-red peaks, the sea with snowy waves and clouds, the ethereal fog, and the green pines to form an endless fantasy scene. Above and below the sea of ??clouds, there are thirty-six sources, twenty-four streams, sixteen springs, eight pools, and four waterfalls. A hot spring can cure all diseases. In addition to various beasts, there are also various birds. The magical musical bird can sing eight musical tones. The rare Ganoderma lucidum grass has coral-like fleshy mushrooms. As the highest effect, it especially rewards the extremely rare body light that only belongs to the happy few. This light is the most magical. It has a colorful halo like a mirror frame, and a bright mirror in the middle can reveal a human figure. The three people stood side by side on the peak, each seeing their own faces and silhouettes in the light from the front of the peak.
In this way, nature has completed the arrangement and is obviously satisfied. Therefore, it cuts off all the passages that can lead people from the human world to the paradise with three final strokes on this piece of art. , There are cliffs and cliffs everywhere, with no support. It is not willing to give the beautiful scenery to humans casually. It seals the mountain.
Two
For many years after Hongmeng, only golden monkeys who were good at climbing came to swim. How many years later did humans come? The first person to come was the Yellow Emperor. As soon as he arrived, Huangshan was named. He, Duke Fuqiu and Rongchengzi went up the mountain to collect herbs. Legend has it that he ascended on Alchemy Peak, one of the three main peaks, next to Guangmingding Peak with an altitude of 1840 meters.
For thousands of years, no one has climbed the unclimbable Huangshan Mountain. It was not until the prosperous Tang Dynasty, during the Kaiyuan Tianbao period, that a poet came. Even where apes worry about climbing, the poet is not worried. Under his feet, the dangerous mountain roads cannot stop him. He is Li Bai. He was so excited that he climbed to the top of Lotus Peak, the highest peak in Huangshan Mountain, which is 1,860 meters above sea level. There are poems to prove it: There are stone pillars on the red cliff, with golden hibiscus on them. Yi Xi rises to the top and looks down at the Tianmu Pine. Li Bai saw in his imagination that Duke Fuqiu attracted Prince Qiao to "play the sheng and dance on the windy pines". He also wanted to "ride the bridge and watch the rainbow", and also wanted to "transfer his body into infinity", which shows his strong interest in traveling.
Hundreds of years later, there was a man named Wu Longhan in the Song Dynasty. He "went to the top of the Danya Cliff, and stayed at the top of the Lotus Peak. The frosty moon washed the sky, and the sky was blue and green." It seems that at that time, this was the only way, during the day Climb a mountain and you can’t go back on the same day. Having to sleep on the top of the mountain is also a kind of enjoyment.
But after that, in the hundreds of years of Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties, most travelers failed to climb the Lotus Peak. Wang formed a mighty mountaineering team with "seven followers and two monks accompanying them". "One servant held an ax in front of him to cut the bushes, another servant followed him with a golden name, and two or three others held swords and halberds on their shoulders. Follow." They only reached the halfway point of the temple and were in a state of disarray. They looked up at the peak and returned disappointed. Only a few people reached Guangmingding. Fewer people reach the top of Lotus Peak. Among the three main peaks, Tiandu Peak is only 1,810 meters above sea level, but it is the most dangerous and has never been climbed. At that time, a group of poets formed an alliance at the foot of Tiandu Peak and called it Tiandu Society. I wrote a lot of poems, but not one of them climbed up.
Only Master Pumen, Yunshui Seng, Li Kuangtai, Fang Ye and Xu Xiake were recorded as ascending to Tiandu.
Three
On the morning of Bailu, we set off from the hot spring hotel. Passing the Renzi Waterfall, I saw the way people used to climb mountains in the past, the 500-level Arhat level. This is a stone step carved out of the smooth cliff where two waterfalls cascade down. It has no handrails and can only be used to support your feet. It is really thrilling. But we don’t need to climb from here right now. In addition, there are relatively gentle and quite wide stone steps paved all the way up from the forest next to the waterfall. We even passed a stretch of road, but it wasn't built yet. There are always stone steps along the way. The iron railings installed in dangerous places are very strong; they are painted red and look more beautiful. The forestry school hangs small signs on precious trees with the names of the trees and their Latin names, like the ones in the park.
After passing Lima Pavilion, Longpan Slope, and arriving at Banshan Temple, you will see Tiandu Peak standing upright in front of you, majestic and difficult to climb. At this time, the mountain road gradually became steeper, and we were almost reaching the final boundary between the human world and the paradise.
However, the roads along this boundary are now all paved with stone steps and are quite wide, all the way to the toe of Tiandu Peak. Look up! Tiandu Peak is indeed like the "extraordinary clouds" described by travelers in the past. When they came here, they all had "something they wanted to do". But "the guests complained and the servants wept", they were all dissuaded.
"Don't go up, just stop." They didn't go up. Fang Ye wrote in his "Small Travel Notes": "It's too dangerous to get up to the sky. Master Pumen crept to the top, followed by Monk Yunshui, a group of 18 people who gathered together on a moonlit night to climb up. However, they almost fell off the cliff when they returned. It was the fourth time. Li Kuangtai climbed up and his servants were almost killed. No one came close to him, but Lulu went to heaven at that time. All are indeed dangerous. But now we have a ladder to heaven in front of us. A bird path descends from the sky like a rope ladder. It seemed like endless stone steps waiting for us to climb. It is steep and tiring, but not terrible. The stone steps are wide and there are stone railings on both sides with iron ropes hanging in the middle to protect you. We went straight up, straight up, straight up, and soon we reached the most dangerous point on the back of the crucian carp.
It was a stone beam with thousands of walls cut on both sides. The stone beam is narrow and narrow, interrupted in the middle. When Fang Ye arrived here, he felt "a little nervous". But we have nothing to fear, because there are stone railings and iron ropes on the crucian carp's back to protect us. This also saved the day.
In this way, the places that the ancients thought were impossible to go and considered the most dangerous, such as the back of the crucian carp, the slope of the king of hell, the small wall, etc., are no longer dangerous and impossible places today. Our group all arrived at the top of Tiandu Peak. Thousands of miles of mountains and rivers can be seen at a glance; all the wonders of Huangshan Mountain can be seen with just one step.
Our country, this era, is exactly like this. The happiness that belongs to the few already belongs to the majority. Although people here have carved mountains and built roads in the past generations, it was only in this era that mountains were carved and roads built. Thanks to those Huangshan masons, I gave in when I saw them on the cliffs, and I avoided the dangerous places when I saw them. They conquered Huangshan. With a bridge built between the cliffs, you can watch the springs and waterfalls. The red-painted railing at the dangerous point is an enviable scenery in itself.
The scenic spot has become a park. Life has been restored from a desperate situation. Look, Tiandu Peak, Lotus Peak, Yuping Peak, Lianrui Peak, Guangming Peak, Lion Grove, and many more beautiful places are all in the park. Look, what a park this is!
Four
I saw the clouds coming, soaring above Wenshu Monastery, Qingliang Terrace, blowing past the East China Sea Gate, the West China Sea Gate, and filling the Beihai Hotel , Baieling. Such wandering and uncertainty; if there are many changes, the scenery will be different in a millisecond; the same place will change in an instant. One moment the sun floods; the next moment the rain rushes. But there are always clouds and mists floating in and out; the entire park is hidden in it. A few pine branches and a few people watching the pine trees dissolve into each other; each picture is like an ancient landscape, with simple brushwork. The strong wind roared, shaking the pine trees like dragons and phoenixes, showing their strength and beauty. Their roots are entangled in rock crevices, are the same color as granite, and are generally strong. They have wavy canopies trimmed by the wind; they spread their wings like wings because of the wind. Looking down from the peak, they look like moss, draped over the rocks; looking up from the mountainside, they look like goddesses, standing gracefully and elegantly. Along the crevices of the rock wall, walking figures came out one by one, wearing tulle and light silk, with their exposed figures dancing gracefully. And the wind of dancing pines blows the clouds and mist into various shapes, which is dazzling. The clouds and mist disperse or gather; the peaks appear and disappear. It was still raining and foggy just now, but in less than a thousandth of a second, they all dissipated. On the solemn Tiandu Peak, the hada was put away; on the top of the pretty Lotus Peak, the veil like cicada wings was lifted. When the sun shines, the cliffs are covered with gold. At this time, the sea of ??clouds rolled in, like the tide coming from Haining, directly photographing the cliff bank in front of Wenshuyuan Hotel. Cinnabar Peak was swallowed up; Peach Blossom Peak reached the bottom of the waves. Gengyun Peak has become a small island; Aoyu Peak swims among the snow waves. The waves calmed down and the moon shone brightly. At this time, just south of Wenshu Monastery, the whole body of the Scorpio constellation was like a flying dragon, lying in front of it, motionless. Wait for someone to ride it and then you can take off. And when I suddenly woke up in a dark blue hotel among the quiet peaks, I got up gently and saw that the peaks and ridges were still only divided into light and dark, yin and yang, but the dawn glow gradually showed purple, blue, and green colors. The rising sun reveals its first particles. I have never seen this bright red so red; I have never seen this bright red so bright. In an instant, the fireball soared into the sky; the place where you stared was covered by the clouds. The light and shadow are ever-changing; hundreds of light beams shoot down from the space. The Ten Thousand Pine Forest is incomparably gorgeous; the Yungu Temple is radiant with glory. Suddenly I saw a glazed lamp hanging high on the top of Shixin Peak. The strange light and splendor spread across the flower dock like fireworks. Fireworks are flying, the sound changes color, and the powerful wind and clouds gather again. The pipes and pipes are singing in unison, and the mountains are shouting and the valleys are responding. The wind is getting stronger. In front of the Xihai Gate, snow waves are rolling. In front of Paiyun Pavilion, it is like a busy seaport, with packages of soft goods being loaded and unloaded on the pier. How I want to sail out to sea from here. But there are many reefs and the waves are so dangerous that they can definitely smash my sail mast and capsize my boat. I walked through the dense forest path and ran up to Zuoshu Peak. There is a platform on which you can watch the sea. But seeing the vastness, the boundless sea, Penglai on the sea, it is particularly strange. I passed through denser forests, climbed over more bizarre peaks, snaked past more dangerous cliffs, and stepped into deeper waves. A reed can sail, and I reached Feilai Peak in the heart of the sea. My interest in traveling became more intense, so I set foot on the clouds again, reaching the clouds where there are no signs on the map of Mount Huang, and no one mentioned it in any travel notes. There are no stone steps, no trails, no routes, and no direction. Only in the crevices of rocks, among pine roots, and in the folds of snow waves, I went overseas. There are four thick clouds gathering, and everything is vast in all directions. Suddenly I saw a medicine farmer and told me that this place is called Overseas Wufeng. He showed me the highest honor of Huangshan Mountain, a branch of Ganoderma lucidum grass, with both head and tail stems, and a bright red color like coral. He showed me the way, and he went down to the canyon dozens of feet deep on the rope. He is flying and swinging. Huangshan belongs to him, to such medicine farmers.
I passed through several layers of clouds and crossed several ridges, and found myself on Alchemy Peak, in front of Guangming Peak. Heavy rain was coming, and I just took shelter in the weather station. Huangshan also belongs to them, these young scientific workers. They invited me into their research room. It rained heavily. At this time, the meteorologist congratulated me because I was about to see the best scenery. At that time, I had just finished breathing, but they urged me to go to the observation platform. Sure enough, after the rain, the sky turned sunny again. The capital of heaven stands abruptly, like an ancient general. The crimson lotus peak faces the sun and stretches out its watery petals. In the gaps between the light clouds and the sea, you can see the crystal water drops at the foot of the mountain. Baiyue Mountain in Xiuning, Jiuhua Mountain in Qingyang, Tianmu Mountain in Lin'an, and Kuanglu Mountain in Jiujiang. In the distance, like a floating piece of water, it is the Yangtze River. At this time, a rainbow hung in the sky. Colorful and bright, with silver sea background. Brilliant! Brilliant! The rainbow is not far away, it is right now, right next to the observation deck. Only ten steps away, the rainbow feet rose up, across the sky, straight into the blue sky, and reached the extreme distance. It seems that you can climb the steps from the foot of the rainbow, step close to the rainbow, and overlook the mountains and rivers. And between the sea of ??clouds, a precious light suddenly appeared. In the shadow of the pine trees, a piece of colored glaze shone under the pendant rainbow, only twenty steps away from me, within reach of my hand. It's brilliant. It's crystal clear in the middle. There is a mirror in its rim, which is even more gorgeous than a rainbow.
The light of the body! The light of the body!
What a park this is! What a world this is!