In ancient China, we have seen many ancient costumes in TV dramas, and we have a general impression on the whole. But what are the women's costumes of Japan's Ping 'an Dynasty modeled after our Tang Dynasty?
With such curiosity, I opened a book called Life and Literature of the Heian Dynasty. This book was written by Ikeda Kamei, a Japanese scholar who specializes in Ping 'an literature. As we all know, the so-called peace literature is actually literature created from a female perspective. The ladies-in-waiting at that time created many classic works that are still highly respected today. For example, The Tale of Genji, written by Murasaki, is even called a dream of red mansions in Japan, which shows the high status of court women in the literary world.
Talented women like Kawazubu, Qing Shaoran, and Murasaki Tombu. They are all female officials in the palace, and what they serve in the palace will naturally come into contact with some things in the palace, so most of the words they write are about things in the inner palace of the Ping 'an Dynasty, which is very helpful for people to understand the court life and literary achievements of the Ping 'an Dynasty.
However, these works, like all ancient books, are circulated in the hands of powerful people in various manuscripts, and there are often omissions, differences and contradictions. Yoshino Yoshino, who is devoted to the study of philology, has been planning an annotated book on Genji's story to commemorate his achievements. However, due to his advanced age, he gave this task to Ikeda Kamei, a young scholar who was considered promising at that time.
Who knows that Ikeda Kamei was out of control after taking over the task, and devoted his life to the study of Genji Tale and literature of Pingan Dynasty. 1956, the last book of his Tale of Genji was published, and he died only a few days later.
Although he lived only 60 years old, he was very busy and prolific all his life, and he proofread as many as 80 monographs, such as Pillow Grass, Tosa Diary, Ise Tale, Zibu Diary, and Diary of a Cattle Driver. In addition, including all his essays and novels, he wrote as many as 800 books in his life.
Life and Literature of the Peaceful Dynasty was published in the summer of 1942 at the request of the audience by collecting the lecture notes of his lecture Diary Literature and Court Life. It talked about the layout and structure of Ping An Jing, the status and life of female officials, women's beauty and spiritual beliefs. Now let's learn about the life scenes of female officials at that time from the beauty of court costumes.
For us now, we all hate professional clothes very much. It removes the uniqueness of individuals and puts everyone in a unified condom. However, all the women who serve in the court wear beautiful professional clothes.
In the palace, women's clothes are divided into three types: formal clothes, fine clothes and obscene clothes.
Formal dress is only worn by noble owners when holding official or private ceremonies. Bright clothes are the clothes worn by the maids of the court and rich nobles when they serve the master and receive guests, which is what we call work clothes today. Swearing clothes are worn in a person's private life.
Women who work in the palace are on call 24 hours a day, so they seldom wear obscene clothes. Because they are service personnel, they dare not even think about formal clothes, so exquisite clothes have become their main wear in the palace.
Sunny clothes are commonly known as "Twelve Orders". As for how many floors there are, there are different opinions in ancient times. But from the inside out, it can be roughly divided into: princess, Dan, Yi, Dai, Biao, Tang, and finally Shang. It can be seen that fine clothes are very complicated and need to be added layer by layer.
Feiyi is in direct contact with the skin, and the second floor is a single layer, which means a single layer of underwear. There is also a kind of "clothing", which refers to double-layer underwear. Tuo is a kind of clothes worn outside, and it needs to be worn in multiple layers, which is also called "heavy". According to the book Ruozhi in The Story of Flowers, when loquat hall was big, the weight of female toilets in loquat hall was as many as twenty floors. However, at the end of the Muromachi era, the number of floors was fixed at five, which was later called "Five Clothes".
The so-called clothes are actually a kind of clothes, which are worn below the surface and above the weight, that is, double-layer underwear that separates the weight from the surface. Beaten clothes are often brightly colored, hidden under the surface, Tang suit and dress, giving people a hazy aesthetic feeling. For example, "Pillow Grass" wrote: "The red and bright clothes were wet by the fog ...".
It shows a dress worn on He Jiong's coat. In private places, women's houses can also wear watches for people to see, but at this time, watches are obscene clothes, and there are two forms of "small tassels" and "slim" after restructuring. For example, Yuhao's clothing in the butterfly scroll of The Tale of Genji says, "It's fashionable to wear Nadeshiko, with slender colors, small seasonal colors and excellent color matching ...". The thin and long sleeves are shorter than the Tang suit and have no slits, but the length is longer than that of the Shang suit. They are substitutes for Tang and business clothes, and are used for personal time.
Tang suit and business suit are the outermost clothes, which often show a person's identity and status, so there are specific regulations on their materials, textures and colors. First of all, the texture of Tang suit is divided into three types: double-sided cloth, cloth surface and plain silk; Secondly, the colors are dividend, cyan, plain, yellow, cherry, purple, blue and grape dye. Among them, red and cyan are called "forbidden colors" and can only be worn by people with certain qualifications or special permission from laws and regulations.
"diary of purple department" records the scene when the prince was born: "looking around the curtain, people who listen to Xu more often are all dressed in blue or red Tang suits, printing and dyeing clothes, all of which are made of Suzhou textile fabrics." Among them, "listening to Xu color" refers to both the texture of clothes allowed to wear and the color of clothes allowed to wear.
Double-sided fabric is a luxurious and beautiful fabric, and other lines are woven on textured silk. The fabric is only woven with weft yarns, with a little embellishment; Plain silk is a common weaving method of warp and weft interlacing. The texture of petticoat is twill and plain silk, but only "people who listen to Xu color" can wear twill. And the general ordinary ladies' room can only print patterns on white or light-colored fabrics.
The above are basically the daily clothes of court women, but sometimes when they go out to travel, especially when they visit temples and shrines, they will deliberately go on foot to show their piety. At this time, they will put on a kind of clothing called "Guo Zhuang". This kind of clothing is put on first, then tied with a small bow or bow, tied with a belt around the waist, held in your hand or tied, and then put on a hat in the shape of steamed bread sold in the market.
Layers of single clothes can really increase a person's aesthetic feeling, but in grand gatherings or celebrations, in order to add more touching aesthetic feeling, the official will ingeniously introduce beating and pawning to further highlight the beauty of women.
Punching means that the female toilet exposes cuffs and weights from under the bamboo curtain or car curtain. "The Story of Flowers" wrote: "The Grand Maid Room (Akiko) is played from the south side to the west side of the bedroom hall, with ten people in rattan color, ten people in flowers, ten people around, and ten people in the mountains, with great momentum. The Pipa Palace (Yanzi) plays from east to west to south. " Is according to the color and type of clothes, * * * is divided into four groups, a group of ten people to play. Similar to the parade formed by our current celebration activities, each parade has iconic colors and obvious signs.
Different from wearing out, the ladies' toilet pushes out the sleeves from the center or left and right of the bamboo curtain, only revealing the sleeves. In "Pillow Grass", when describing the scene of visiting the Liangdian, he wrote: "Inside the imperial curtain, the female officials loosely hung down their cherry red Tang dresses, revealing the colorful clothes blown by Fujiyama, and they were taken out one by one under the small curtain ..." It can be seen that this is a thrilling beauty under the magnificent scene.
Punching and extrusion are the aesthetic feeling of layering various clothes at the tail of clothes, which is the result of overlapping and harmonizing various colors inside and outside through the form of exposure. Therefore, there is a matching method called "taste" in all the heavy colors that are typed or pressed out.
"Taste" originally refers to taste and smell, which is something that can be understood without words, and a feeling that can only be known after experience. Here, "taste" extends a charm that can only be understood but cannot be expressed.
As for the collocation method of "flavor", "Liang Ya Ancient Costume Copy" wrote: "Plain flavor: light color, turn it into strong flavor next time, and it will be cyan. Red flavor: red flavor, thin flavor next time, red plum color. " There is also "clothes are chrysanthemum quintuple" in the diary of purple department, which refers to the quintuple clothes with chrysanthemum flavor: the top one is white, the middle one changes from lavender to slightly dark purple, and the bottom one is green. This "taste" is a top-down dressing collocation, and the color gradually fades or thickens, showing a beautiful charm without ambiguity and endless aftertaste.
Even if clothes have thousands of customs, they must be worn on a suitable person to show its beauty. And the same clothes, worn by different people, will also show the different beauty that people and clothes complement each other. This brings out the best in each other and shows the unique aesthetic feeling of a person and clothes. A person's character, intelligence, spiritual integrity and personality cultivation are all displayed at a glance under this lazy clothes.
Women who joined the Heian Dynasty were undoubtedly the dragons and phoenixes of that period. They must have a good family background to enter the palace, and they must have a higher spiritual pursuit to live in this most brilliant palace for a long time. They created the eternal glory of a dynasty and left us the eternal memory of that dynasty more than 1000 years ago. Stripping away the dust and fog of history, we can only look for lost bits and pieces in their words and shape the historical imagination of a lost dynasty through their words.
It is said that Japanese women are the most feminine, which is hidden in the charm of wearing kimono. In the past, we didn't emphasize the beauty of curves and pursue the beauty of bones, but the women in Pingan Dynasty showed an unspeakable beauty in their spacious clothes.
Their beauty is reflected by the texture of clothes and the rhythm of life. Genji's Tale Genji's Tale "Must Mill" describes Genji in this way: "Wearing a soft white silk dress, a Zi Yuan dress, etc ... (Genji) Beads shed tears, so I raised my hand and wiped them off. Black and good rosary hands set each other off, which is beautiful and hard to say. " As long as the material of the clothes is advanced enough, it will be very soft and will show the casual beauty in the owner's bones.
At that time, women's clothes were spacious and wore many layers, so their beauty was associated with the wind. "Pillow Grass" wrote: "In the imperial curtain, the female officials hang loose the peach-red Tang suit ..." That is to say, they pull the front of the Tang suit open and let it hang loosely over their shoulders, showing the curvy beauty of the back neck and shoulders, the wind blowing, the clothes fluttering, and the long neck standing proudly, showing a firm and arrogant charm, reflecting the noble beauty of a woman.
This is a magnificent palace costume feast and the best interpretation of a dynasty's aesthetics. The aesthetic taste of the Heian dynasty has always influenced Japan, and the beauty of its mourning comes from people's experience and mutual observation of foreign things. Although this aesthetic taste originated in China, the Japanese have improved it in some places, and they are better at details, from which the implicit charm of women is more prominent. However, this charm does not need to be born with beauty. As long as the cultural connotation is continuously absorbed the day after tomorrow, this subtle elegance will be unconsciously filled with gestures.
This elegance blends with the surrounding scenery and things, bringing out the best in each other and forming a beautiful daughter country in a period. The life and literature of the Heian Dynasty present a kind of temperament beauty and the beauty of the outside world that women exude from the inside out. Clothing and dressing are just better displayed. Women who can create a literary monument of the times have their own unspeakable beauty. Their beauty comes not only from their families, their environment, but also from their higher pursuit of the meaning of life.