During the Song Dynasty, men's wear in the Song Dynasty generally followed the style of the Tang Dynasty. Generally speaking, people wear robes with collars or round necks. When doing things, they put their clothes on their belts. The clothes are black and white.
At that time, retired officials and scholar-officials often wore a double-breasted gown, called a "straight coat", with black edges on the sleeves, cuffs, neckline and corners, and a square cap on their heads, called a "Dongpo towel".
In Song Dynasty, women wore a short jacket with narrow sleeves and a long skirt. Usually, they wear small long-sleeved coats and double-breasted jackets, much like vests today. The neckline and front of the coat are embroidered with beautiful lace.
Men's wear:
Coronation clothes: The Song Dynasty began to reduce the types of coronation clothes, and non-coronation clothes were often worn in ceremonies.
Court dress: In the Song Dynasty, special decoration was added under the strong dress, which was called "square-heart bent collar".
Official business: women's clothing in Song Dynasty;
Costume: Its costume color is roughly the same as that of the Tang Dynasty.
Uniform: All the clothes are long sleeves, long skirts and gowns.
Take the secret service as the official uniform.
2. Song Dynasty costume modeling
The report given to the imperial court by Shaoxing four-year military equipment said that the weight of armor at that time was 45-50 Jin, and "the imperial edict should not exceed 50 Jin."
This kind of armor of about 50 kg belongs to "heavy armor". Heavy armor has a strong protective function in combat, but it is inconvenient to move.
In the southern song dynasty, in order to meet the special needs of some cavalry, a kind of "light armor" could be made, which was characterized by "not exceeding the knee and elbow, and it was also more important than killing."
(See Biography of Bi Zaiyu in Song Dynasty).
According to the different characteristics of Ma Jun's combat and Bu Jun's combat, Hua Yue put forward the shape of Ma Jun's armor in Cui Wei's Journey to the North in the Southern Song Dynasty. It says, "Four cranes share the waist ring. Armor and body should be covered with a mask on the left. The waist and skirt are three inches above the knee. Hanging legs are used for hanging. "
No matter what arms, body armor is essential, followed by shoulders, followed by leg skirts. Ma Jun has to hang his legs when he meets the enemy, and he has to untie and bag when he leaves the division to avoid being bound.
3. Clothing characteristics of Yuan Dynasty
In ancient times, the traditional costumes of Xi 'an nationality were called Korean clothes. Historically, there were three countries on the Korean Peninsula, namely Mahan, Chen Han and Han Ge. Therefore, Koreans call themselves "three Koreans" or "three Korean descendants". Koreans are also called Koreans, so the official academic circles in South Korea and North Korea officially call it "Hanbok". Korean royal costumes have long been influenced by China. In the Yuan Dynasty, the king's clothing itself added its own national characteristics on the basis of inheriting the Han tradition, so korean king's clothing was not completely civilized. For example, korean king's sacrificial clothing has been made with the Han nationality.
In the early days of Korea, Wang's official uniform was basically imitated by the Song Dynasty, and it was not until the late period of Korea that he was really influenced by the Yuan Dynasty and accepted the fashion of Mongolian and Yuan royal costumes.
4. Ming Dynasty costumes and Yuan Dynasty costumes
What are the characteristics of costumes in the Ming Dynasty? Clothing in Ming Dynasty belongs to the traditional clothing system of Han nationality. After the Yuan Dynasty overthrew Mongolian rule, the Ming Dynasty restored the tradition of Han nationality. Zhu Yuanzhang, the founding emperor of the Ming Dynasty, re-established the clothing system according to the tradition of the Han nationality. So what are the characteristics of Ming Dynasty costumes?
Compared with the Tang suit, the Ming suit is obviously inverted in the proportion of dresses, from the short coat to the long hem, the coat is gradually lengthened and the length of the exposed skirt is shortened. The collar has also changed from a pair of lapels in the Song Dynasty to a round neck. In the Ming Dynasty, the blouse was narrow-sleeved and three-collared, more than three feet long, revealing a skirt of two or three inches, which was called "big-sleeved round neck corolla skirt coat".
At that time, a new style was popular in Yangzhou: blouses were 2' 8 "long, sleeves were 1 2" wide, sleeves were inlaid with splendid flowers, and mink fox skin was inlaid in winter. At the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, the skirt was light in color; During the Chongzhen period, white skirts were advocated. This skirt has an embroidered edge of one or two inches. At the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, the skirt width was six, and it developed into eight or ten at the end of the Ming Dynasty. Skirt pleats are very popular, with thin pleats and large pleats. Folding decoration is very particular. There is a striped skirt, each of which is made of satin of the same color. Each piece of colored satin is embroidered with flowers and birds, and the edge of the belt is inlaid with gold thread, which can become an independent strip. Several such colored stripes are spliced on the belt to form a striped skirt, so it is named "phoenix tail skirt". Some also hand-made the whole piece of satin into fine pleats and named it "pleated skirt". A 24% off skirt, named "Jade Skirt".
In the Ming Dynasty, there was a special hairpin named "Bi Xia" because its shape was as beautiful as rosy clouds. This scorpion appeared in the Southern and Northern Dynasties and got its name in the Sui and Tang Dynasties. In the Song Dynasty, it was included in the formal attire. It was widely used in the Ming Dynasty, and its shape was like a long colorful hanging belt. Each lower bar is 3 inches wide and 5 feet 7 inches long. Take it around your neck and hang it on your chest. Because there is a gold or jade pendant hanging at the lower end, it looks more noble.
5. Clothing cultural relics of Yuan Dynasty
1, Dashuifa stone fish
Dashuifa stone fish in Yuanmingyuan, located in Xilou Community before fire, is 125 cm long. Dashui method was basically completed from the 12th year of Qianlong to the 24th year of Qianlong (1759), so this pair of stone fish has a history of at least 248 years.
After the Yuanmingyuan was stolen, the pair of stone fish wandered among the people in the late 1920s, and now they are finally sent home for free by people of insight. At the same time, the remaining eight stone carvings such as steps, railings and pedestals were sent back by Beijing Audio-visual Education Center. Of these eight components, six should be guardrails of western buildings, and the other two are fences carved by China due to exquisite western patterns.
2. Jinyou permanent Jinbei
Jin 'ou permanent gold cup is a special device for Qing emperors to hold the opening ceremony of New Year's Day on the first day of the first month of each year. The cup is oval, with a diameter of 8 cm, a foot height of 5 cm and a height of 12.5 cm. Two real dragons are used as ears, and each real dragon faucet contains a pearl. It is enough to have three elephant heads with curled noses.
The cup is covered with precious flowers with symmetrical patterns and inlaid with pearls and rubies as flower hearts. On one side, the mouth of the cup is engraved with the words "Jin Ou" by Yang seal, and on the other side, it is engraved with "Qianlong Year System". It is now in the Palace Museum in Beijing.
3. Gu Jun Map
Gu Jun is a paper ink painting created by Gong Kai, a painter in Yuan Dynasty. It is now in the Osaka Municipal Art Museum.
The Map of Gu Jun depicts a hungry horse. It is skinny and can hardly lift its head, but it can still feel its indomitable spirit from its torch-like eyes.
"Gu Jun Map" combines words and dyes to describe the bones, muscles, tail, hooves and wrists of horses, which is quite rough.
4. Bronze statue of the animal head of the zodiac in Yuanmingyuan.
The bronze statue of the animal head of the zodiac in Yuanmingyuan was originally a part of the fountain outside Haiyan Hall in Yuanmingyuan, and it was a bronze statue of the Qing Dynasty. 1860, the British and French allied forces invaded China and burned Yuanmingyuan, and the bronze statue of the animal head began to be lost overseas.
By 20 12, the bronze statues of bull head, monkey head, tiger head, pig head and horse head had returned to China and were collected in Poly Art Museum. 20 13 On April 26th, French Pino family announced in Beijing that they would donate the bronze mouse heads and rabbit heads of the Twelve Water Methods in Yuanmingyuan to China for free. The donated mouse head and rabbit head are two of the bronze statues of the 12 zodiac animals lost in the Yuanmingyuan in Beijing.
At present, eight animal heads in the Twelve Zodiacs of Yuanmingyuan have returned to China, among which the dragon head is well preserved in Taiwan Province Province, and the whereabouts of the snake head, the chicken head, the dog head and the sheep head are unknown.
5. Forty Scenes
The Forty Scenery of Yuanmingyuan is a 40 landscape paintings drawn by court painters and ci ministers according to Li Hong's will around the ninth year of Qianlong (1744). According to different painting methods, it can be divided into two categories. The first category is meticulous painting, with only one set, which was originally stored in Yuanmingyuan. This painting has high artistic value and good visual effect.
The second category is ink line sketch, and there are three versions of * * *: one is the attached picture of "Forty Poems of Yuanmingyuan" published by Qianlong at the order of ci ministers, and there is an official transcript published by Qianlong within ten years; Second, the detailed drawings attached to the Yuanmingyuan Shi Yinben in the 13th year of Guangxu reign were originally made by Sun.
6. The influence of Yuan Dynasty costumes on Ming Dynasty costumes.
According to the different collar types, skirts can be divided into cross-collar skirts, straight-collar double-breasted skirts, oblique-collar double-breasted skirts, round-neck double-breasted skirts and jacket skirts. According to the waist height of the skirt, it can be divided into middle waist skirt, high waist skirt and chest skirt.
At the end of Jin Dynasty, it was popular for women to wear underwear crotch outside collared skirts. In the Northern and Southern Dynasties, a kind of skirt with a belt appeared, and the lower skirt was mostly colorful, which spread to the Korean Peninsula and Japan.
Chest-length skirts and high-waisted skirts were popular in the Tang Dynasty, and they were often accompanied by silk. From the late Tang Dynasty to the Five Dynasties, a chibra skirt appeared, with a chibra on it and a long sleeve blouse or half arm outside. In addition, only Chebra wore a big sleeve top, and the big sleeve skirt was also a female dress at that time.
In the Song Dynasty, the Han women's dresses were mainly skirts, the most common of which were double-breasted skirts, underwear and skirts were only lapels, and some people put double-breasted ones on the collars.
From the late Yuan Dynasty to the Ming Dynasty, the clothes of Han women were mainly waist skirts, the main difference from the previous generation was that the tops were not tied in the skirts.
Although Han women could continue to wear Hanfu after being ordered to shave their heads and change clothes in the Qing Dynasty, their costumes were influenced by Manchu costumes at the latest in Yongzheng, and they changed from stand-up collar to stand-up collar with wide chest and pipa lapels.
7. What were the costumes of the Yuan Dynasty like?
In the Yuan Dynasty, the official clothes were mainly sun clothes of the same color and braided robes with fine pleats at the waist. These two kinds of clothes are robes with the characteristics of northern nomads, which are convenient for riding and shooting at once.
After the Yuan Dynasty entered the Central Plains, the official uniforms were inherited from the Han system, and the official ranks were divided according to different colors and patterns.
The clothes of people in the Yuan Dynasty were mainly "drying clothes", which were short robes, tight and narrow, with many pleats at the waist. This kind of clothes is very convenient to get on and off the horse.
8. Clothing characteristics of Yuan Dynasty
In the Yuan Dynasty, the nobles attacked the Han system and widely woven dragon patterns on their clothes. According to Yuan Shi, the emperor's robes, kneepads, hostesses, belts and ribbon rings were all decorated with various dragon patterns. There are eight dragons in the robe alone, not counting the little dragons beside the leader's clothes. The dragon pattern was created by the Han people, and it represents the culture of the Chinese nation. After the end of the Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties, the northern minorities successively established political power, and all followed this model without exception.
It was more prominent in the Yuan Dynasty, and it was widely used in other household appliances besides clothing.
In the Yuan Dynasty, Mongolian men wore corrugated hats made of rattan, which had two styles of Fiona Fang, and the top was decorated with jewelry.
9. Typical Yuan Dynasty costumes
The weaving and embroidery technology of fabric patterns in Yuan Dynasty has made great progress. The acceptance of traditional auspicious patterns of Han nationality in Liao, Jin and Yuan Dynasties was based on its own auspicious implication and political considerations.
With the government's attention, the textile industry became more and more specialized and larger, which laid the foundation for the weaving and embroidery industry in the Ming and Qing Dynasties.
Silk reeling with Xixia andrographis pattern embroidered in Liao Dynasty
Jewelry in Liao, Jin and Yuan dynasties, such as weaving and embroidery techniques, also developed greatly during this period. The social status of craftsmen engaged in craft production has improved, and professional production has also made jewelry more exquisite. The style of ornaments in this period is quite detailed and the shape is more realistic.
10. PPT of clothing development history in Yuan Dynasty
The Yuan Dynasty was ruled by Mongols, so the costumes of the Yuan Dynasty were also quite special. Mongolians often braid a small lock of hair on their foreheads, like peaches. Others braid it into two braids, and then wrap it into two big rings to hang behind their ears, wearing Dai Li hats on their heads. The clothes of people in the Yuan Dynasty were mainly "drying clothes", which were short robes, tight and narrow, with many pleats at the waist. This kind of clothes is very convenient to get on and off the horse.
Noble women in the Yuan Dynasty often wore a tall, long and eccentric hat, which was called the "crown". The robes they wear are wide and long, which makes it inconvenient to walk. They often need two maids to pull their robes behind them. Ordinary civilian women wear black robes.