?
Jiangnan - we have obviously met before...
I saw you in the peach blossoms in March, apricot blossoms and plum rain in April< /p>
I saw you in the early summer when "the old orioles are old in the wind, and the plums are plump in the rain..."
In the autumn of the pond under the cold red leaves, the long boat is in the same boat as the traveling clouds. "I have seen you in the autumn weather"
I have seen you in the winter when "the water is dim and the clouds are pale, and the village is covered with flying snow"
…………
Jiangnan, isn’t she the girl who wanders alone in the long and lonely rainy alley holding an oil-paper umbrella?
Jiangnan, isn’t she the woman who rows a boat to pick lotus leaves among the fragrant floating lotus leaves
p>Jiangnan, isn’t it the village girl who is picking tea leaves with a bamboo basket on her back and wearing a hat?
Jiangnan, isn’t she the one wearing a blue calico shirt, sitting on the bow of the boat? The daughter of the water town sending lotus roots
…………
Jiangnan, a strange yet familiar, alienated yet cordial Jiangnan
Approach you and you will be right in front of your eyes< /p>
Is that you? The one that has been immersed in the poetry of mist and rain - Jiangnan
Everyone says that Jiangnan is good, and tourists only like Jiangnan.
? 3. Jiangnan Yi·Ink Shaoxing
In October in Jiangsu and Zhejiang, the breeze blows and the sun is warm.
Get on the train from Hangzhou to Shaoxing. The train is the first green train from Xi'an to Ningbo.
I don’t know how my daughter bought a green train ticket.
"Bang, bang, bang, bang..."
When I was a child, I went back to my hometown with my mother to visit my grandma, and we rode in a green car that always stopped at every stop and stopped for a long time.
The train was crowded, even the aisles and toilets were full of people.
After getting off the train, I felt that the road under my feet was shaking.
When I was older, I went to school. When I heard the long whistle of the train and saw the locomotive coming toward the platform with white smoke, the green train was full of longing, because I could see it right away. To my mother who has been away for a long time after returning to her hometown.
I went to work and was transferred to another city. I had to take the extremely slow green train to go home every week. Especially in winter, when the mountains are covered with heavy snow and trains are often delayed, you wish you could spread your wings and fly home, but it is like a snail, moving steadily, breathing white breath, and calmly moving in the heavy snow. Stand at one stop and climb slowly...
"Clang, clang, clang, clang..."
Thirty years later, riding the green train again felt like going back in time...
A trip to Shaoxing is like taking a slow time train.
When I arrived in Shaoxing, I stayed at a B&B called "Shi Er Pu Su" that my daughter had booked in advance.
As soon as I entered the door, I was attracted by the calligraphy of Orchid Pavilion Preface above the door.
"Lanting" is located in Shaoxing, which was called Kuaiji in ancient times. Encountered "Wang Xizhi" by chance in the "Hometown of the Sage of Calligraphy".
In the ninth year of Yonghe in the Eastern Jin Dynasty, Wang Xizhi, the internal historian of Kuaiji, invited more than 40 celebrities and nobles to hold a grand gathering of water flowing wine in Lanting, and wrote "Lanting", which is known as "the best running script in the world" "Preface to the Collection", Wang Xizhi was revered as the "Sage of Calligraphy", and Lanting became a holy place for calligraphy. Shaoxing naturally became the "hometown of calligraphers".
Anyone who learns running calligraphy in future generations will be fascinated by Lanting and cannot extricate themselves. It is a pity that such a calligraphy treasure was finally used as a burial object for Emperor Taizong Li Shimin of the Tang Dynasty and will never be seen in the world.
I curiously asked the proprietress what the name of the shop "Shier Pusu" means?
“There are Shi Er paintings of friends, Shi Er paintings of lovers, Shi Er paintings of lovers, and Shi Er paintings of family members. So the name of Shi Er is called Unforgettable.”
“In addition, there are There are twelve guest rooms, so it’s called this.”
The proprietress is indeed a native of Shaoxing, the “hometown of celebrities”.
Shaoxing has a history of more than 2,500 years. It is also a famous water town, bridge town, wine town and calligraphy town. There are too many celebrities to list:
Dayu, the first emperor of the Xia Dynasty, Gou Jian, Lu You, the "Jianhu Heroine" Qiu Jin, Zhu Ziqing, Qian Sanqiang, Zhou Enlai, Lu Xun... They are all from Shaoxing. Shaoxing can be said to be "the heaven and the earth, the beautiful mountains and rivers, the extraordinary situation attracts extraordinary people."
Put away your luggage and stroll through the alleys.
The shiny bluestone road
The small bridge over which the river flows slowly
The gentle breeze blowing by the weeping willows by the river
A puppy lying lazily basking in the sun
Grandma Wu Nong was chatting softly with her neighbors at the alleyway
Clothes to be dried were hung on bamboo poles on the roof
There were two or three awning boats moored under the bridge
But there were no boatmen wearing black felt hats.
It’s as if time doesn’t want to take one more step forward here.
The residents of the old neighborhood live along the river.
If you walk inside Taimen, you will find that there is a small river port in the backyard of every house, which is a typical "one river and five streets" pattern in Shaoxing. Although every house now has running water, we still see that residents here still have the habit of washing clothes and washing vegetables in the river.
I wonder if I have walked on the "eight-character bridge" in Shaoxing. Shaoxing, with its developed water system, is known as the "Land of Ten Thousand Bridges". Throughout the ages, perhaps no one has been able to accurately verify the number of stone bridges in Shaoxing. But the Eight-Character Bridge has a unique historical position on the 2,700-kilometer-long Grand Canal. It has the reputation of "the oldest overpass in China". It looks like a figure of eight, cleverly connecting three small rivers that converge here.
Che Wu unconsciously sang:
"The small bridges in the water town have many gestures
There are vines growing in the cracks of the stone slabs
Three steps and two bridges connect the water to the harbor
The strips of jade reflect the blue waves? ”
…
The afternoon sun is warm and lazy.
“Zhu Zhishan Restaurant!” He and Chef Wu smiled knowingly, attracted by this restaurant named after one of the four most talented people in the south of the Yangtze River.
It’s already three o’clock in the afternoon, and I haven’t eaten yet after taking the bus at noon.
Husband and wife restaurant, warm and thoughtful.
We ordered Shaoxing's authentic delicacy "Misfortune Qianzhang". The boss gave us a small bowl of fennel beans that he usually drinks with wine, and poured us two glasses of his own rice wine.
The boss told us that the moldy Qianzhang was all made at home, and he showed us the moldy Qianzhang, saying that many businesses now do not know how to make it by hand. It is said that Miaoqianzhang has a unique flavor. It is famous for its freshness, fragrance and lightness. It is a good product among soy products.
But I didn’t taste it. I felt that besides being “salty”, it was also “salty”, and the “saltness” couldn’t be stopped even if it was paired with white rice.
The boss lady told us that if we go forward, not far away is the "Hometown of Lu Xun".
Lu Xun’s hometown is a historical district with a unique Jiangnan style. It is a real place to interpret Lu Xun’s works authentically, taste the scenery in Lu Xun’s works, and experience the real life situation of Lu Xun back then.
On both sides of a narrow bluestone road, there are a row of pink walls and black tiles, bamboo silk terrace gate, Lu Xun's ancestral residence, Lu Xun's former residence, Baicao Garden, Sanwei Bookstore, Shoujiatai Gate, Tugu Temple, Lu Xun's Style Garden , Xianheng Hotel interspersed with it, a small river flowed in front of Lu Xun’s former residence, and awning boats swayed on the river...
There were many middle school students visiting Lu Xun’s hometown that day, so we just took a quick look. Hua looked at "Sanwei Bookstore" and "Baicao Garden".
Out of Lu Xun’s former residence, several businesses were selling things related to Lu Xun’s works such as “ruler rulers” and “fennel beans” to attract tourists.
Mr. Mister probably would not have thought that in his book "he is the only person wearing a long gown while standing drinking." Kong Yiji in that "cool" society has become the spokesperson of "fennel beans".
Walk straight down along the hometown of Lu Xun, and you will arrive at "Shen Garden" in less than five or six minutes.
Shen Garden, also known as "Shen's Garden", was the private garden of a wealthy businessman named Shen in the Southern Song Dynasty. It was built in the Song Dynasty.
Lu You once left his famous poem "The Hairpin-headed Phoenix" here.
The sky has darkened, and it is impossible to enjoy the scenery of Shen Garden.
But you can watch "Night in the Garden" at 7:40 p.m.
"Night in Shenyuan" combines Yue Opera, Shao Opera, Lotus Falls and other local operas to interpret the poignant love story between Lu You and Tang Wan.
There was still some time before the performance, so I walked into a Shaoxing local restaurant just one street away from Shen Yuan.
Chef Wu took the menu and saw a dish called "Steamed Three Stews" on the menu, so he ordered it! To taste the "stinky" taste, have two more glasses of rice wine. Sit back and wait for the "three odors" and feast on them.
"What does it smell like?!" The diners covered their noses one after another.
The stench drifted over, and it turned out that the "steamed three odors" made their debut.
The "steamed three smells" served on the table are bright in color and delicate in appearance.
Steamed three smells are also called Shaoxing three smells. In fact, it is: simply process the moldy amaranth stalks, stinky tofu and edamame, then use the vegetable stalks as the bottom, top with tofu and edamame in order, sprinkle with appropriate oil and salt, and then steam it in a pot.
Baidu Encyclopedia describes it as: The moldy amaranth stems and stinky tofu attack with both fists, making you feel breathless. The tenderness of the edamame blends with the rotten taste, leaving a sour and refreshing taste in your lips and teeth. On this basis, adding moldy winter melon is the "steamed four smells". It is said that this is "the Huashan sword theory in the heavy flavor world."
A Shaoxing diner next to him said calmly: "I don't think it smells bad." Does it smell good?”
“I don’t think so, it’s really stinky!”
Chef Wu pretended to be calm and took a few bites, then looked contorted. shape.
Some people say that Shaoxing people are not fond of smelly foods. The stinky tofu is famous far and wide, and the moldy amaranth stems dominate the smelly food world. In ancient times, there was a saying that "a government office cannot be established without Shao", which means that in ancient Shaoxing, there were yamen all over the country. It is said that there was a time when the yamen were recruited. After written examinations and interviews, the last step was to invite the candidates to dinner. There is a plate of "three stinky things" in front of each person: stinky tofu, moldy Qianzhang, and moldy vegetable stems. Applicants who couldn't afford it were all eliminated.
Because only those who eat "three smelly things" are authentic Shaoxing people. Only then are you qualified to be a master.
I have truly experienced the "stink" of Shaoxing food, and it is this smelly thing that Shaoxing people can't stop eating, and even make wanderers in foreign lands dream about it.
Small bridges, flowing water, awnings, weeping willows...
As the curtain of "Shenyuan Night" opens, a beautiful ink painting of the real scene of Jiangnan is displayed in front of people's eyes . The love story between Lu You and Tang Wan thousands of years ago seems to be happening before your eyes, making people feel like they have traveled back to the Southern Song Dynasty.
From the lingering affection between Lu You and Tang Wan when they visited the garden, to the lingering love and hatred when they met again in Shen Garden, from when Lu You returned to the garden and wrote "The Hairpin Phoenix" in Shen Garden, to the white-headed A scene that is unbearable to look back on, the story of Lu You and Tang Wan is twists and turns, sentimental, poignant and moving.
Watch the entire play.
I didn’t feel that the opera was dragging and slow. Perhaps the charm of the opera lies in this gentle, soft and long-lasting singing voice. I always felt that the night sky was echoing with Tang Wan’s sad and plaintive singing voice: “The world is thin and human nature is evil. When the rain comes at dusk, the flowers are easy to fall. The wind dries in the morning, and the tears are left. I want to write my thoughts alone, it’s difficult, it’s difficult, it’s difficult!”
The song ends.
My heart seems to be passing by the green train that once carried the melancholy of farewell and faded away...
Sometimes life is like a fast-moving train. It is too late to look at the scenery outside the window. It is too late. Sipping a cup of tea, not having time to enjoy a play, not having time to savor, think and reflect, maybe your temples will turn gray and you will sigh that you have missed so many good times...
Ink Shaoxing, a line of green A slow time journey brought by leather train.
Written in October 2019