In the 1920s and 1930s, Lai Yu Jinxuan was a teahouse in Beijing Zhongshan Park (formerly known as Central Park). For intellectuals of that era, "Laixuan" was a very familiar and intimate social place frequented by cultural celebrities such as Lu Xun, Lin and Zhang Henshui. Laixuan's position in the minds of Red Wall literati can be compared with Lin's Wife's Living Room and Zhu Guangqian's Hall No.3 of Cihui.
Laijin Yuxuan was built in 19 15, and was founded by Zhu Qiqian, chief interior minister of Beiyang government and founder of Central Park. Coming to Jinxuan means a place where friends get together. Its meaning is taken from the preface of the famous Tang Dynasty poet Du Fu's Autumn Story: "In autumn, Du Zi was ill and traveled to Chang 'an, and it rained heavily, with moss on his couch. He has always been a guest of chariots and horses. The old rain came, but it didn't come today. The name "Lai" means that old and new friends come here to get together, and those who attend are usually true friends, regardless of their status and prestige.
Laixuan former site is located outside the southeast corner of altar wall in Zhongshan Park. It is a typical building of the Republic of China, with black tile roofs, red brick houses, colonnades, floors and partitions. The building area is 48 1 m2. After it is completed, it is planned to be a clubhouse in the early stage, and then attract investment to open restaurants and teahouses. The environment is quiet and elegant. At that time, some celebrities, university professors and famous scholars often came here to get together. Mr. Zhang Henshui, a famous master of popular literature, and Mr. Yan, a newspaper, met here and merged into an immortal work, Crying and Laughing.
Today, Laixuan Teahouse is still in its original site. You can enter from the main entrance of the park and meander northbound along the East Corridor to get there directly. Laixuan Restaurant moved from the original site to the new site of Xinghua Village on the west side of the park 1990.
The uniqueness of Jinxuan is not only reflected in the name meaning, architectural form and business philosophy, but also reflected in the plaque at the door.
Laixuan was originally written by Xu Shichang, a famous painter in the Republic of China. 1966, the plaque inscribed by Xu Shichang, president of Beiyang government, was taken down. 197 1 After the oil decoration was renovated, it is said that Guo Fenghui, who is known as the "first calligrapher in China", wrote the words "Lai Yu Ting". He wrote Tianjin time-honored brands such as Zhengxingde Tea House, Chengxing Tea House and Zhili Bookstore. A relatively new plaque was inscribed by Zhao Puchu 1985, and Guo Fenghui's version was taken down and stored in the warehouse.
Xu Shichang's calligraphy plaque is gone now. Guo Fenghui's calligraphy is simple and naive, with high interest and ancient meaning. Zhao Puchu's title "Today's Rain Pavilion" has a smooth and elegant shape and a rigorous and meticulous structure, and there is an ancient and simple atmosphere in his clever brushwork. Calligraphers have expressed their understanding of "old rain and new rain" in their own ways, interpreted the true meaning of friends and conveyed good wishes to friends all over the world.
The Preface to Autumn is widely circulated, and there is a tender historical allusion: Du Fu was appreciated by Xuanzong of Tang Dynasty when he lived in Chang 'an, and everyone took the initiative to make friends at home, but he never became an official, so people gradually alienated him. Ten years after Tianbao, the autumn rain continued, and Du Fu was poor and ill. An old friend named Wei went to visit him. The poet almost wrote poems to express his gratitude. Since then, "old rain" and "new rain" have become synonymous with old friends and new friends.
Lai Yu's fame in Jinxuan still has a lot to do with the identity of the tea drinker and the atmosphere of the teahouse.
In the early years of the Republic of China, the tickets and consumption prices of Central Park were very high, which restricted the crowds coming here. At that time, although the ticket was only 50 cents, it could be exchanged for 20 copper coins, and this price could buy six or seven eggs, which was not cheap for many civilians at that time. And tourists have to spend other money to enter the park. For example, tea in teahouses is generally 1, and dim sum is also 1, which is a bit unbearable for ordinary people.
In addition, every teahouse has frequent visitors, Guo Zezhi, Xia and Fu Zengxiang are frequent visitors to Chunming Pavilion, and Ma Xulun, Qian, Wang, a painter, and Wang Yi, a shorthand expert, are frequent visitors to Changmeixuan. If these people eat, they will choose to go to Lai Jin Xuan.
Lu Xun is a "hardcore fan" of Lai Xuan. According to Lu Xun's diary, Lu Xun came to Zhongshan Park 82 times and visited Yuxuan for translation and writing 60 times to enjoy tea and flowers. Xu Zai, a student of Mr. Lu Xun, wrote an article on 1979, describing in detail the story that Mr. Lu Xun invited him to eat steamed bread and drink tea at Laixuan. Lu Xun is very picky about his diet. In his eyes, "edible" means "very worth eating" in the vernacular. In that era of material shortage, he integrated his concern and consideration for students into this dish of winter vegetable buns.
Yuxuan's winter steamed stuffed bun is very famous in Beijing, which can be compared with Goubuli steamed stuffed bun in Tianjin. For a long time from the Republic of China to the founding of New China, steamed stuffed bun also contains a long and lasting history from the establishment of Yuxuan to the present. Winter steamed stuffed bun has almost become synonymous with Lai Jinxuan.
The steamed stuffed bun with winter vegetables is made of Sichuan Nanchong Chuandong cuisine. After more than three years of pickling, it is made by traditional fried stuffing technology. The entrance is slightly sweet and the sauce is rich. The biggest feature of this steamed stuffed bun is "high top", 26 pleats and birdcage shape. Some people call it birdcage bag. Nowadays, this kind of steamed stuffed bun is a "network celebrity" product in the store. It's handmade, sold in limited quantities, and has a takeaway window. Besides steamed stuffed buns, the teahouse is still selling side dishes, pea yellow, DOG crisp and hot tea. The use of tableware is also very particular. The heavy black-rimmed plates and metal chopsticks make the process of eating steamed buns quite ceremonial.
In addition, Laixuan also has an important identity, that is, one of the former sites of China's early revolutionary activities in Beijing. 1965438+After the establishment of young chinese Institution in July 2009, Li Dazhao, Deng Zhongxia, Gao et al. I have come to Jin Yuxuan for many times to attend the gathering and symposium of the society and clarify my political opinions. Li Dazhao came here many times to promote Marxism after the establishment of the Peking University Marxist Theory Research Association on 1920.
Today, Laixuan has become a Beijing-level patriotic education base. After previous renovation and exhibition, it was officially opened to the public on June, 20265438 1 day, and there was a special exhibition of China Youth Society and Literature Research Association, which allowed visitors to immerse themselves in the activities of early progressives in China to promote Marxist thought.