Official uniforms in the Tang Dynasty: robes and shirts
Official attires in the Tang Dynasty Men's clothing in the Tang Dynasty was dominated by Futou robes and shirts. Futou, also known as Futou, was based on the Han and Wei shawls. A kind of first server formed. After the Tang Dynasty, people added a fixed ornament called "scarf" inside the futou. The shape of the towel varies from period to period. In addition to the scarf, the Fu Tou's feet also had many changes. By the late Tang and Five Dynasties, the original soft feet had been changed into hard feet, one on the left and one on the left. The main attire of officials in the Tang Dynasty was round-necked narrow-sleeved robes, and their colors were stipulated: all officials of the third rank and above should wear purple; those of the fifth rank and above should wear scarlet; the sixth and seventh ranks should wear green; the eighth and ninth ranks should wear purple. Is cyan. There will be slight changes in the future. In addition, a horizontal lining under the robe was also a major feature of men's clothing at that time. This piece shows a display of round-neck robes and gauze headdresses from the Tang Dynasty.
Uighur women’s clothing in the middle and late Tang Dynasty
[Reposted from Jiesue Community / ]
Uighur women’s clothing in the middle and late Tang Dynasty Display picture of Uighur clothing. A lady from the late Tang Dynasty wearing a Uighur bun, a golden phoenix crown, and a crane costume, as well as a variant of the treasure-patterned cloud-head brocade shoes. The Uighurs are an ethnic minority in the northwest region and are the predecessors of the current Uyghurs. During the Kaiyuan period of the Tang Dynasty, the Uighurs were once the most powerful ethnic minority regime in the north. The Uighur people and the Han people have a close and friendly relationship, and their cultural exchanges and economic exchanges have never stopped. The clothing of the Uighurs had a great influence on the Han people, and was especially popular among aristocratic women and court women. The basic characteristics of the Uighur suit are somewhat similar to a man's robe, with lapels, narrow sleeves and a wide body, with a long bottom that touches the floor. The colors are mainly warm tones, especially red. The material is mostly made of thick brocade, and the collar and sleeves are inlaid with wider gold brocade lace. When wearing this kind of clothing, the hair is usually pulled into a vertebra-shaped bun, which is called "Uighur bun". On top of her bun, she wears a peach-shaped golden crown studded with pearls and jade, with a phoenix bird on it. There are usually hairpins on the temples, and many exquisite jewelry on the ears and neck. Wear soft brocade shoes with raised toes.
Sui and Tang Dynasty armor
Sui and Tang Dynasty armor The Tang Dynasty armor was mainly used for actual combat, mainly iron armor and leather armor. In addition to iron armor and leather armor, silk armor was also commonly used in Tang Dynasty armor. Silk armor is armor made of textiles such as silk. It has a relatively light structure and beautiful appearance, but has no defensive capabilities. Therefore, it cannot be used in actual combat and can only be used as a general's daily clothing or ceremonial attire. The picture shows the wearing of armor.
Liao Dynasty Beiban Clothing
Liao Dynasty Beiban Clothing Liao Dynasty clothing is mainly robes, for both men and women, and the top and bottom are the same. Clothing features are generally left vent, round neck, and narrow sleeves. There are knotted buttons on the robe, and the robe belt is tied at the chest and then hangs down to the knees. The color of the robe is relatively gray, including gray green, gray blue, ocher yellow, black and green, etc., and the patterns are relatively simple. Most of the robes worn by the noble class are relatively delicate, with flat rust patterns throughout. The dragon pattern is a traditional pattern of the Han people. It appears on the clothing of Khitan men, reflecting the mutual influence between the two ethnic groups. This picture shows the round neck robe display.
Liao Dynasty Beiban Clothing
[Reposted from Iron Blood Community/]
Liao Dynasty Beiban Clothing Liao Dynasty clothing is mainly robes, both men and women, upper and lower Same system. Clothing features are generally left vent, round neck, and narrow sleeves. There are knotted buttons on the robe, and the robe belt is tied at the chest and then hangs down to the knees. The color of the robe is relatively dark, including gray green, gray blue, ocher yellow, black and green, etc., and the patterns are relatively simple. The robes of the aristocratic class are mostly exquisite, with flat rust patterns all over. This picture shows the robe with narrow sleeves on the left side.
Liao Dynasty Nanban Clothing
Liao Dynasty Nanban Clothing The Liao Dynasty called Han clothing "Hanfu", also known as "Nanban Clothing". It is different from the "national costume" (or "Beiban costume") of the Khitan people. This kind of clothing can be worn not only by ordinary people, but also by Han officials. The belt has a crotch belt, which was originally made from Hu. There are rings between the belts for hanging various portable objects, such as bows, arrows, abacus bags, knives, sharpening stones, etc. Other ethnic groups also use cocoon belts.
This picture shows a gold-decorated cocoon belt (the actual object unearthed from the Liao Tomb in Liaoning Province)
The Costumes of the Nobles of the Jin Dynasty
The Costumes of the Nobles of the Jin Dynasty The picture shows the robe with narrow sleeves on the left and the long skirt. The decorative patterns of the Jin Dynasty liked to use animals, especially deer. On the jade openwork plaque unearthed from the Orimi Golden Tomb in the lower reaches of the Songhua River, there is a pair of red deers carved on it. A male deer stands proudly with long antlers and a hunched back; a female deer looks back, looking gentle and elegant. There is a small tree on the left and right sides, indicating that deer live in the forest, which has the decorative characteristics of nomadic people. There are also a large number of deer patterns carved on the carved bricks unearthed from Linjin Tomb in Zhongshan, Lanzhou. As for more such patterns found in gold tombs in Macun, Huayu and other places in Jishan, Shanxi, the images of deer are also different, either strolling slowly or galloping, full of strong flavor of life. This decorative feature is also reflected in a large number of clothes. In "History of Jin·Yu Fu Zhi", there is a record of Jurchen costumes "based on Xionglu Mountain and Forest". Deer patterns are widely used. In addition to its beautiful appearance and easy use as decoration, there is another reason. Deer has the same pronunciation as the Chinese character "Lu", which has an auspicious meaning. The skirt pattern shown in this picture is decorated with deer patterns. During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, although the deer pattern was not included in official uniforms, it was still commonly used among the people. It was more common to combine it with the characters "Fu" and "Shou", known as "Fu" and "Lu". ,life".
The casual clothes of the aristocrats of the Yuan Dynasty
[Reposted from Iron Blood Community/]
The picture of the casual clothes of the aristocrats of the Yuan Dynasty shows narrow-sleeved brocade robes with dragon patterns, corrugated hats and cloud shoulders , Satin boots display picture. The nobles of the Yuan Dynasty followed the Han system and woven dragon patterns widely on their clothing. According to "Yuan Shi Yu Fu Zhi", the emperor's sacrificial robes, knee coverings, jade hairpins, leather belts, ribbon rings, etc. were decorated with various dragon patterns. There were eight dragons in one robe alone, and there were also small dragons on the side of the leader's clothes. Not counted. The dragon pattern was created by the Han people and represents the culture of the Chinese nation. After the late Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties, northern ethnic minorities successively established political power, and all adopted this pattern without exception. In the Yuan Dynasty, it became more prominent. In addition to the large number of dragons used in clothing, they were also widely used in other daily utensils. Mongolian men in the Yuan Dynasty wore a "corrugated hat" made of rattan strips, available in square and round styles, with jewels decorating the top.
Gold brocade half-sleeves from the Yuan Dynasty
Gold brocade robes and half-sleeves from the Yuan Dynasty This picture shows a display of gold brocade half-sleeves. Yuan Dynasty clothing used a lot of gold, more than in previous dynasties. Adding gold to fabrics had already appeared before the Qin Dynasty. As for the use of Han costumes, the time was about the Eastern Han Dynasty or after the Eastern Han Dynasty, and they were mainly used in the palace. It was not until the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties that the custom of gold woven clothing became popular across the country. In the Song Dynasty, there were as many as eighteen types of gold used in the clothing of nobles. Gold weaving technology has also made great progress in the areas ruled by the Liao and Jin Dynasties. It is especially popular in the Uighur area and the clothing materials weaved are the most exquisite. After the Liao and Jin Dynasties, the Yuan Dynasty used gold on fabrics more than the previous generations.
Gold-woven brocade robes of the Yuan Dynasty
Noble clothing of the Yuan Dynasty The clothing of the Yuan Dynasty used a lot of gold, more than in previous dynasties. Adding gold to fabrics had already appeared before the Qin Dynasty. As for the use of Han costumes, the time was about the Eastern Han Dynasty or after the Eastern Han Dynasty, and they were mainly used in the palace. It was not until the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties that the custom of gold woven clothing became popular across the country. In the Song Dynasty, there were as many as eighteen types of gold used in noble clothing. Gold weaving technology also made great progress in the areas ruled by the Liao and Jin Dynasties. It was especially popular in the Uighur area, and the clothes weaved were the most exquisite. After the Liao and Jin Dynasties, the Yuan Dynasty used gold on fabrics more than the previous dynasties. This picture shows the cross-collar woven gold brocade robe.
Men's Braided Thread Jacket of the Yuan Dynasty
[Reposted from Tiexue Community/]
The picture of the Braided Thread Jacket of the Yuan Dynasty shows the braided thread jacket, square corrugated heddle hat, Leather boots display. Mongolian men wear a "corrugated hat" made of rattan strips, which comes in two styles: square and round, and is decorated with jewelry on the top. The style of the braided thread jacket is a round neck, tight sleeves, wide hem, and dense pleats. In addition, a wide apron made of braided thread is sewn on the waist. Some of them are also studded with buttons. They are commonly known as "braided thread coats". , or "waist line jacket". The braided thread jacket was produced in the Jin Dynasty, and was used on a large scale in the Yuan Dynasty. It may have been the clothing of low-status attendants and ceremonial guards at first. Later, the braided thread coat was no longer limited to ceremonial guards, especially in the late Yuan Dynasty.
Generally speaking, "Fan Bang" courtiers and "officials" usually wear this kind of clothing. This kind of clothing was followed until the Ming Dynasty. Not only was it not eliminated with the large-scale uniform changes, but it became the attire of upper-level officials, even the emperor and ministers wore it. .
Han women's clothing in the Yuan Dynasty
Most of the clothing shown in the actual picture of Han women's clothing in the Yuan Dynasty was taken from a Yuan tomb in the suburbs of Wuxi, including a wide-brimmed double-breasted top. And a short undershirt with no edge, a vest with slits on the placket, hem, and purple silk at the collar. It is a single piece without pleats. The skirt is cross-stitched in the middle of the front. There are also skirts with pleated pleats on both sides. There are two styles of shoes, one is made of patterned silk; the other is made of plain silk, with pointed toes, uppers embellished with rosettes made of threads, middle silk cotton, and soles made of cheesecloth. There are also trousers, money bags, etc., which are used by women. The picture above is a double-breasted silk jacket; the middle picture is a double-breasted silk jacket; the bottom is a silk skirt (the actual object unearthed). Half-armed skirt
The Yuan Dynasty clothing is mainly made of robes. The style is slightly larger than that of the Liao Dynasty. Men's public clothes are mostly made of Han customs, with large sleeves and buns. Collar, right gusset." The rank of his position is expressed in the color and pattern of the clothing. The crown of public uniforms are all made of futou, made of lacquered gauze, showing their feet. In daily dress, narrow-sleeved robes are often worn. The status is low. The attendants and servants often wear a short-sleeved shirt in addition to their regular clothes. Women also have this custom (called a half-arm skirt). In addition to the common style of the Liao and Jin Dynasties, there is another style of robe. Round collar, tight sleeves, wide hem, and folded skirt. This picture shows the armor and military uniforms of the Liao Dynasty. ]
Liao, Jin, and Yuan Clothing The Liao Dynasty was established by the Khitan people and became prosperous in a short period of time. It mainly absorbed and adopted the advanced culture, production technology and social system of the Central Plains, including military velvet clothing. In terms of armor, according to the "History of the Liao", the army of the Liao Dynasty already used armor when it was in the Khitan Kingdom. It mainly adopted the styles of the late Tang, Five Dynasties and Song Dynasty, with the upper structure of the armor being mainly the same as that of the Song Dynasty, except for the legs. The skirt is obviously shorter than that of the Song Dynasty. The two square pieces of falcon tail armor on the front and back cover the leg skirt, which maintains the characteristics of the late Tang and Five Dynasties. The armor belly protector seems to be hung in front of the abdomen with a belt, and then fixed with a belt. This is the same as the leather armor of the Song Dynasty, and the large round guard in the middle of the chest is unique to the Liao Dynasty. In addition to iron armor, the Khitan military attachés also used leather armor in two styles. There is no obvious difference. They are all robes with coiled collars and narrow sleeves. They are the same as ordinary men's clothes. The regular clothes may be slightly tighter than the official clothes. This picture is a restoration of the armor and military uniforms of the Liao Dynasty warriors.
Qilin robes for officials in the Ming Dynasty
[Reprinted from Tiexue Community/]
Exhibition of the unicorn robes worn by officials in the Ming Dynasty. Ceremonial robes, official robes, casual robes, etc. Qilin robes are court attire for officials. Its characteristics are large lapels, slanted collars, loose sleeves, a slit across the front and full pleats at the bottom. In addition to the two groups on the chest and back, the embroidered patterns are also distributed on the upper end of the rotator sleeve and the lower part of the waist (one horizontal stripe). In addition, a wide edge made of natural color was sewn under the left and right ribs, which was called "pendulum" at the time. Liu Ruoyu, an eunuch of the Ming Dynasty, specifically describes this kind of clothing in his book "Zi Zhong Zhi". He said: "It has a continuous placket at the back, and hems on both sides. The front placket has two sections, and there are horse pleats underneath, starting from both sides." The materials and patterns used in this kind of clothing have certain rules according to regulations. "History of the Ming Dynasty·Yu Fu Zhi" states: In the 13th year of Zhengde's reign, "all ministers were given a piece of red silk and silk yarn. The color of their clothes was: bullfighting in the first grade, flying fish in the second grade, python in the third grade, unicorn in the fourth and fifth grade, unicorn in the sixth and seventh grade. Tigers and Biaos; Hanlin subjects are all with Yan, regardless of grade; only those with lower grades of Cao are not allowed to do so. "The clothes shown in this picture are embroidered with unicorn patterns. Kirin is an animal in ancient legends, shaped like a deer, with scales all over its body, an ox tail, horse hooves, and one horn. Later generations used it as a symbol of auspiciousness and widely used it in the decoration of various utensils. The image of Kirin has also undergone some changes. The head is painted as a dragon's head with two horns, the tail is painted as a lion's tail, etc. The official uniforms of the Ming Dynasty were embroidered with unicorns, and it seemed that they were not limited to the fourth or fifth grades. They could also be worn by those with special positions, such as royal guards, commanding guards, etc.
Official uniforms of the Ming Dynasty
Official uniforms of the Ming Dynasty This picture shows the patchwork uniforms and black gauze hats of first-grade officials. Wearing a black gauze hat, a futou, and a long robe with a coiled collar and narrow sleeves. "Pan collar" is a high collar with a round edge. This kind of robe was the main style of clothing for men in the Ming Dynasty. It could be worn not only by officials but also by common people, but the color was different. The pan-collar clothes worn by ordinary people must avoid black, purple, green, willow yellow, turmeric and bright yellow. There are no restrictions on other colors such as blue, ocher, etc., commonly known as "variegated pan-collar clothes". Twenty-five years after the founding of the Ming Dynasty, the imperial court made new regulations on official uniforms. All civil and military officials, regardless of rank, must have patches on the chest and back of their robes. Civilian officials used birds, and military officers used animals. To show the difference. This is the most distinctive costume among the official uniforms of the Ming Dynasty.
Ming Dynasty thread-embroidered dragon robe
Ming Dynasty costume Ming Wanli has a winged three-eyed dragon, double placket, narrow sleeves, Tibetan thread-embroidered dragon robe (the actual unearthed object), and the robe material is made of water. Parts have been shortened. The dragon pattern developed countless times from ancient times to the Ming Dynasty. Generally speaking, the dragon patterns in the Pre-Qin Dynasty are relatively simple and rough in appearance, most of them have no limbs and claws, and are similar to reptiles. Dragon patterns in the Qin and Han Dynasties were mostly animal-shaped, with complete limbs and claws, but no scales. They were often painted in the shape of walking, giving people an ethereal feeling. The image of the dragon in the Ming Dynasty was more complete. It concentrated on the local characteristics of various animals, with a head like a bull's head, a body like a snake's body, horns like antlers, eyes like shrimp eyes, a nose like a lion's nose, a mouth like a donkey's mouth, and ears like a cat's ears. , claws like eagle claws, tail like fish tail, etc. The structure and organization of the patterns are also very distinctive. In addition to the traditional walking dragon and cloud dragon, there are also tuanlong, Zhenglong, sitting dragon, rising dragon, descending dragon and other styles.
Ming Dynasty costumes and dragon robes
[Reposted from Iron Blood Community / ]
Ming Dynasty costumes Golden tapestry peacock feather dragon robes in the late Ming Dynasty. The whole body is embroidered with dragon patterns. Judging from the style of clothing, the style is a slant collar robe, which is the emperor's casual clothes. The dragon pattern developed countless times from ancient times to the Ming Dynasty. Generally speaking, the dragon patterns in the Pre-Qin Dynasty have a relatively simple and rough image, most of them have no limbs and claws, and are similar to reptiles. Dragon patterns in the Qin and Han Dynasties were mostly animal-shaped, with complete limbs and claws, but no scales. They were often painted in the shape of walking, giving people an ethereal feeling. The image of the dragon in the Ming Dynasty was more complete. It concentrated on the local characteristics of various animals, with a head like a bull's head, a body like a snake's body, horns like antlers, eyes like shrimp eyes, a nose like a lion's nose, a mouth like a donkey's mouth, and ears like a cat's ears. , claws like eagle claws, tail like fish tail, etc. The structure and organization of the patterns are also very distinctive. In addition to the traditional walking dragon and cloud dragon, there are also tuanlong, Zhenglong, sitting dragon, rising dragon, descending dragon and other styles.
Ming Dynasty men's large-breasted robes
Ming Dynasty official uniforms. Five bats holding longevity-patterned large-breasted robes and a man wearing a square scarf and a large-breasted robe. Men's casual clothes in the Ming Dynasty mostly used robes, which were made with a large placket, right hem, wide sleeves, and knee length. The casual clothes of noble men are mainly made of silk and satin, with patterns painted on them, and they are also made of brocade. The patterns on the robes often have auspicious meanings. The more common ones include clouds and bats with a ball-shaped word "Shou" embedded in them, which means "five bats hold longevity". This form of pattern was particularly popular in the late Ming Dynasty and early Qing Dynasty. It was not only used on clothing, but also reflected in a large number of other utensils and architectural decorations. The other type is the real flower, which is an abstract decorative pattern. It usually uses lotus, honeysuckle or peony as the basic image. It is deformed and exaggerated, and interspersed with some branches, leaves and flower buds to form a neat and dignified, lively and unrestrained pattern. decorative pattern. This clothing pattern was very popular at the time. Since the Tang Dynasty, Baoxianghua has been incorporated into clothing in large quantities and has become an artistic pattern favored by the majority of people. In the Ming Dynasty, Baoxianghua became a special pattern for emperors and concubines. Like the python and dragon pattern, it was prohibited for private use. But the ban was soon lifted and applied to all kinds of clothing. This picture shows the former type of casual clothes. The fabric of the clothing is blue satin, and the longevity pattern is embroidered in gold, silver and light blue.
Qing Dynasty Warrior Armor
Qing Dynasty Clothing General helmets in the Qing Dynasty, whether made of iron or leather, were all painted on the surface. There are beams on the front, back, left and right of the helmet, and a piece of eyebrow covering protrudes from the middle of the forehead. There is a dancing bowl and a bowl on it. On the bowl there is a helmet plate shaped like a wine cup. In the middle of the helmet plate, there is a stick for inserting tassels, carved feathers or otter tails. Iron or copper pipe.
A silk collar, neck protector and ear protector in azurite and other colors hang down from the back, embroidered with patterns and embellished with copper or iron nails. Armor is divided into armor clothes and apron. There are shoulder pads on the shoulders of the armor, and armpit protectors under the shoulder pads. In addition, a metal breast shield is worn on the chest and back, and a trapezoidal belly protector is worn at the seam of the front under the mirror, which is called "front guard". . The "left block" is worn on the left side of the waist, and the "left block" is worn on the right side, which is reserved for carrying a bow and quiver. The apron is divided into two parts, left and right, and is tied around the waist with a belt when worn. In the middle between the two aprons, there is a tiger head covering the knees made of the same material. This picture is a restored picture of a warrior wearing a helmet and armor from the Qing Dynasty.