"White-feathered crane, lend me your wings. I won't fly too far. I will turn back as soon as I reach Litang."
What kind of thing is this? Can crazy love make the prince of love poems Cangyang Gyatso be so desperate? This call made me have a dreamlike longing for Litang. Being able to go to Litang, even just once, will live up to my lifelong obsession with Cangyang Gyatso.
But the advice from travel friends is this: They say that the sky is high and the emperor is far away in Litang, so be sure to bring self-defense equipment with you when you go - in short, we stopped and walked, countless We were hesitant and hesitant for the first time. If it weren’t for the colorful autumn colors along the way, the dazzling pagodas and prayer flags on the snowy plateau, and the call of the last pure land in the world in Daocheng Aden further ahead, we would have really retreated.
Along the 317 National Highway from Rangtang to Litang, the grasslands in the mountain streams are dotted with groups of cattle and sheep, and the patches of ponds are filled with sparkling waves. It's not spring, and it's already past the season when the cicadas are noisy and the forest is quiet, but there are still many unknown little flowers, purple, pink, and white, blooming by the water. A picture of growth that has gone through vicissitudes of life and wind and rain. The sunshine, like flower stamens, is scattered on the grass, colorful and gorgeous, without any sign of shrinking in late autumn.
I always thought that when the autumn colors here were blown by the high and cold wind, Liao Luo must be lonely and could only look from a distance. So when the car turned around the ridge and a large poplar tree came into view, I was stunned and screamed, my mouth wide open for a long time and I couldn't close it.
Poplars, which can be seen everywhere in the Central Plains, are golden and translucent when dyed by the autumn colors here.
These broad-leaved trees are mixed in the green coniferous forest, like ink paintings, rendered layer by layer.
The sacred mountain in the distance stands tall under the blue sky, especially dazzling. The black spots on the grass in the distance turned out to be herds of yaks.
The yaks were annoyed by these tourists and convoys on the road, and they crossed leisurely on the road, not caring about our impatience.
The driver had to turn the steering wheel left and right to avoid them. Sometimes a whistle comes suddenly, but it doesn't scare them at all, as they have experienced strong winds and waves.
The closer we get to Litang, the higher the altitude, but the road becomes more and more bumpy and confusing. Falling rocks blocked the narrow dirt road to just one lane. There is water everywhere on the road.
The RV was forced to stop.
On one side are towering cliffs, on the other side is the surging river. When a large truck roared over from the opposite side, the RV made a cracking sound, and two windows were shattered into pieces.
The truck stopped, and the driver took out a hundred yuan from his pocket, held it in front of us, and shouted: This is all I have, I have no more money.
Passing drivers also gathered around and tried to mediate.
We caressed our RV carefully, feeling so distressed that we wanted to cry.
Along the way, it protected us from the wind and cold and gave us warmth like home. We failed to protect it properly.
The other party was a large truck without a license plate.
The car was empty. The young driver appears to be a shrewd and difficult character at first glance.
Everyone is out of ideas.
Team member Xiao Li suddenly pointed to the sky with a look of horror on his face. Several huge rocks hung precariously on the mountainside. Once it falls, it will be a tragedy of car crash and death.
Teacher Zhao waved his hand, let’s go!
The car started, and the wind blew into the car through the broken windows. Not far away, there was another landslide. The RV stopped and everyone started moving rocks out together.
Further forward, there are fewer vehicles, the surrounding vegetation is getting sparser, and there are no Tibetans grazing around.
The world is vast, and even breathing is oppressed.
The weathered white snow between the mountains and one or two pools of dead water give people a feeling of glacial age. Only the white-capped distant mountains and the rolling clouds in the sky, changing colors and shapes, accompany us.
The journey of more than 100 kilometers took six hours and was not even halfway through. The magnificent journey along the way exhausted our last bit of imagination about the snow-covered plateau. Everyone was drowsy, and only the gasps of the RV as it climbed uphill were left.
When we set foot in Litang, it was ten o'clock at night, and the team members all had varying degrees of high fever. Everyone craned their necks to take in more of the thin air.
Along with the uneven streets spread out from the east end to the west end, all the hotels in the county were full. Finally, we were lucky enough to convince two waiters to park the RV in front of a hotel. Through communication, the waiters let us cook a pot of rice and a pot of potatoes for free. The fatigue of the day was dissipated in this pleasant atmosphere.
We had a sweet sleep. We planned to leave for Daocheng early the next morning.
The night is so quiet that you can hear the stars whispering.
As soon as daybreak came, we didn’t want to leave.
This is the highest city in the world, with the entire city above 4,000 meters above sea level. It is more than 400 meters higher than Lhasa.
The sky is blue and transparent, and the clouds are floating above the head.
This was the hometown of the seventh Dalai Lama, the descendant of Tsangyang Gyatso.
After Tsangyang Gyatso was murdered, people derived from his poems and concluded that Litang was the place where he was reincarnated.
This was destined that Kelsang Gyatso, the seventh Dalai Lama’s soul boy, was confined to Litang and was eventually recognized.
In the 23 years of Tsangyang Gyatso’s life, in a Buddhist country with strict rules and regulations, he used those extremely beautiful love poems to sing and sing all the way, completing a short but glorious life. Now, we are led to this charming and beautiful town.
The most famous Evergreen Ker Temple in Tibetan Buddhism is located on the hillside to the north of the county. Huge Tibetan-style buildings stretch from the bottom of the mountain to the top of the mountain. There are monks' houses one after another. They are clean and deep. No monks can be seen coming in and out. In the dim space, there are prayer barrels and scriptures ----- there are traces of Buddha everywhere. .
As soon as the bell rang, monks suddenly filled the streets and alleys, wearing purple robes and bare arms. They were scattered in groups under trees, on earth walls and stones, and everyone held a book in their hands. Tibetan scriptures.
Going up the mountain road, the thin air made us exert our efforts. Hiking on the muddy mountain road, there is yellow land everywhere, but this temple suddenly appears, carrying countless romance and imagination.
Believers holding flowers and incense candles, tapping every step of their piety, and in front of the vivid and peaceful Buddha statue, there were piles of soot that had not been cleaned up.
There is light smoke from the incense burner in the courtyard. Through the smoke, everything seems illusory. The butter lamp is dim and swaying. The Buddhist songs that have been lingering for three days penetrate the quiet of the morning and penetrate my longing. All the memories of Youth Temple.
The Bodhi tree behind the White Pagoda is covered with precious Phoenix-eye Bodhi trees. It is said that their prices have skyrocketed in recent years.
A team member fell in love with a delicate bracelet. He said that if he got it from Zhengzhou, it would be worth more than 10,000 yuan. He stroked it lovingly, suppressing the desire to take it off.
In the hearts of Tibetans, Buddha is heaven, and they have no concept of money. The best things should be offered to the Buddha.
Unexpectedly, a vicious dog pounced from the side and bit her trouser corner. The team members accompanying her hurriedly pulled her away. The monk next to her also hurriedly called the dog, but it was too late.
Dripping blood leaked from her legs and down the corners of her trousers.
No matter how careful he was, he still failed to escape the fate he was destined for.
Suddenly I remembered the famous line that someone chanted on the Internet:
Don’t regret that this trip is far away,
Litang is so close when you return.
Only after leaving Litang can we have the opportunity to take a closer look at its true appearance.
The clouds in the sky are low, and the Genie Mountain is within reach. There is a belt-like light on the top of the mountain, revealing a mysterious and strange feeling. Typical Tibetan villages are surrounded by mountains and rivers, with smoke curling from cooking stoves, shallow meandering streams swaying in the breeze, and a few yaks grazing peacefully with their heads lowered.
Litang, this holy land that has been praised along with Tsangyang Gyatso, is peacefully here with this idyllic poetry. Staring at it quietly, unable to suppress the emotion.
Along the way, we went through many hardships and finally arrived at this place that has been sketched and imagined countless times. Facing this quiet town in the sunshine, I couldn't help but shed tears, and simply let them flow. The tears at this time were neither happy nor sad, only pure excitement and awe.