1983·Autumn, Song of the Yangtze River (5): Looking up - Zhang Fei Temple, Baidi City

It felt like I was woken up by a slight shaking. The sky had turned white and the ship was not sure when it would weigh anchor and set sail. I couldn't wait to see "my" nature and say hello to the cool river breeze.

Looking through the travel album, it is said that after Zhang Fei was assassinated by his generals Fan Jiang and Zhang Da in Langzhong, the two took his head and fled to Soochow. They traveled to Yunyang and heard that Wu and Shu were making peace. , and threw his head into the river. Later, Zhang Fei's head was salvaged by a fisherman while fishing and buried at the foot of Feifeng Mountain. People built a temple here to worship him, so there is a saying that Zhang Fei's "head is in Yunyang and his body is in Langzhong".

? We can’t climb up to pay our respects, we can only look up from the side. Although the passenger ship is traveling along the river, my eyes have been fixed on that height that the world admires for a long time. I don’t know when I can visit, and I hope that time will bring it. I pulled back, and then pulled back...

There is a legend after checking the information. It records that during the Kangxi period of the Qing Dynasty, Zhang Penghie, a bachelor of Wenhua Palace and the Minister of the Ministry of Personnel, returned to his hometown of Pengxi, Sichuan to visit tombs and worship his ancestors. He passed by Yun by boat. When visiting Zhang Fei Temple, the entourage proposed to go into the temple to worship Zhang Fei, a famous general of the Three Kingdoms. Academician Zhang, who had achieved fame and was known for his integrity, felt that he had nothing to pray for, so he refused to pray for him on the grounds that "I don't want to worship a general". He continued the voyage for 30 miles and stayed overnight in Sanba River. The boatman woke up the next morning and found that the boat that had been moored the night before had unexpectedly backed up 30 miles and stopped at the ferry at the foot of Zhangfei Temple downstream. Academician Zhang thought it was because the boat rope was not fastened when docking at night, so he set off for 30 miles and stayed overnight in Sanba River. However, in the morning, the boat stopped at the ferry at the foot of Zhang Fei Temple again. Scholar Zhang didn't believe in evil, so he went up all night. The next day, the boat stopped at the ferry at the foot of Zhang Fei's temple for the third time at dawn. The bachelor was immediately shocked, and he quickly landed ashore to thank Zhang Fei for his "sin".

? The passenger ship passed by in a hurry, and I felt a flash of emotion. As we drifted away several miles away, the "clear wind on the river" at Zhangfei Temple was still dazzling. It is said that each character of "Jiang Shang Feng Qing" is about 2 meters square. Standing at the foot of the temple which is tens of meters high, you have to look up to see it. But what puzzles me is that the words "Feng Qing on the River" seem to have nothing to do with Zhang Fei. How can Zhang Fei's loyal, brave, strong and straightforward character be tolerated by "Feng Qing on the River"? !

After checking the information, we learned that the four characters "Jiang Shang Feng Qing" were inscribed in the late years of Guangxu. They were written by Peng Juxing, a calligrapher from Yunyang who had served as the Imperial Academy Schoolmaster, when he returned to Yunyang to recuperate. Hu Yaxing, an expert on literature and history, believes that "the breeze on the river is clear" comes from Su Shi's "Ode to the Former Red Cliff" "Only the breeze on the river and the bright moon in the mountains can be heard by the ears and become colors by the sight of them. They are inexhaustible and inexhaustible." Exhausted..."

In fact, the original place is the stone inscription "Lingzhong Eternal Bell". On March 27, 1883, British businessman Archibald Lide (1838-1908) took a small wooden sailing boat from Wuhan to Chongqing. When he passed by Zhangfei Temple, he took pictures on the rocky beach at the foot of the temple. And the location of "Fengqing on the River" on that photo turned out to be engraved with the words "Ling Zhong Eternal". According to the research of Hu Yaxing, an expert on literature and history, there is a big bell cast in Zhang Fei Temple, which will sound the fire alarm, water police and even bandit police in case of danger to ensure the safety of one party. There are many spiritual bells in Buddhist temples, which are set up for praying. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, Peng Juxing left his official position and returned to his hometown to recuperate. He and some celebrities and temple monks in Yunyang carried out large-scale cultural packaging of Zhangfei Temple. They carved famous steles from all over the country and displayed them in the temple, turning Zhangfei Temple from a single place of prayer to a Therefore, the book "Feng Qing on the River" was overlaid on the "Ling Zhong Eternal Bell", marking that in addition to praying for blessings, Zhang Fei Temple also added the functions of reading books, appreciating paintings, lingering on the scenery, and enjoying nature.

The mystery of inscriptions originated from this.

From 10 a.m. to Fengjie. The passenger ship is about to enter the Qutang Gorge, and on its port side, on the high mountain on the north bank of the Gorge east of Fengjie, there is an ancient city, which is the famous "Baidi City".

Baidi City is surrounded by water on three sides, mountains on one side, and rivers and gorges. It stands alone and looks particularly beautiful in the majestic and steep Kuimen Mountains and Waters. Baidi City, nestled among lush green trees, is extremely eye-catching with its overhanging eaves and green tiles, red windows and white walls.

It is said that one has to climb nearly a thousand stone steps from the foot of the mountain to reach the gate of Baidi Temple at the top of the mountain. Looking around from the stargazing pavilion in Baidi City, you can have a panoramic view of Fengjie City and beyond, up and down the Qutang Gorge, with mountains, rivers, and myriad weather conditions. Of course, we can only imagine.

According to reports, Baidi City is extremely legendary. At the end of the Western Han Dynasty, Gongsun Shu took control of Shu and built a city on the mountain. Because a well in the city often emitted white gas, like a white dragon, he named himself Baidi and named the city Baidi City. After Gongsun Shu's death, the local people built a temple and a statue of Gongsun Shu on the mountain, which was called Baidi Temple. Because Gongsun Shu was unorthodox and arrogant, in the seventh year of Zhengde in the Ming Dynasty (1512), the governor of Sichuan destroyed the statue of Gongsun Shu and worshiped the statues of the River God, the Earth God and Ma Yuan (14-49 BC, the founding hero of the Eastern Han Dynasty), and renamed it " San Gong Temple". In the twelfth year of Jiajing's reign in the Ming Dynasty (1533), statues of Liu Bei and Zhuge Liang were enshrined, and the name was "Justice Temple". Later, statues of Guan Yu and Zhang Fei were added, forming the "Bai Di Temple without the White Emperor, but the Shu Han figures." pattern.

Below Baidi City is the west entrance of the Three Gorges of the Yangtze River, the gateway to Sichuan. Due to the steep terrain, it has always been a battleground for military strategists throughout the ages. In front of the Guanyin Cave at the foot of Baidicheng Mountain, there used to be a huge boulder lying across the middle of the river, called "Yanlidui". It was a dangerous shoal in Fengjie, the Yangtze River. Its eddies were unpredictable and had damaged countless sailing ships since ancient times. No wonder Liu Yuxi, a poet of the mid-Tang Dynasty, lamented that "the pile of piles outside the west gate of the city cannot be destroyed by waves every year." However, after the founding of the People's Republic of China, this "Sphinx" that had caused scourge for thousands of years was blown up and cleared in 1959, and ships could pass through Qutang unimpeded.

When mentioning Baidi City, people will automatically think of the story of "Liu Bei Tuo Gu" in "The Romance of the Three Kingdoms"; of course, "Early Departure to Baidi City" by Li Bai, a poet of the Tang Dynasty, will also come to mind. However, all this can only be a flash of thought in my mind again, because the Three Gorges is coming towards us and Kuimen is close at hand. We follow the tourists and rush to the stern deck of the four-story cabin.

Here it comes! Coming! We are finally going to merge into the world-famous Three Gorges of the Yangtze River, rushing like a wave of passion, and experience the boldness of the great poet Li Bai -

The white emperor's colorful clouds, thousands of miles of rivers and mountains are returned in one day.

The apes on both sides of the bank can't stop crying, and the boat has passed the Ten Thousand Mountains.

? (To be continued)

Note: This article (original title "1983·Autumn, the Yangtze River calls, we set out..."), in order to give the title a more contemporary background and be more subtle It is a travelogue in the narrative prose genre, and follows the sequence of time and scenes, using diary form and scene changes as a writing structure (serialization); at the same time, in order to enrich the content, "time and space superposition" is adopted In this way, content from different periods in the same space is added.

This article was completed by the author intermittently for 11 years at the end of 1994, and then finalized for 25 years. It was revised for the first time in 2019, which enhanced the historical facts, characteristics of the times, geographical landscape and cultural landscape in the article. and authenticity, try our best to be able to read the words and see the appearance, and know the time by the words; the second revision was from June to September 2020, and the first addition and revision once again added the cultural, historical and geographical information content, further strengthening the travel experience Zhong Cong felt the inner evolution of his feelings and polished it with rhetoric; the entire manuscript is about 80,000 to 90,000 words.