The delay lasted until last Saturday. It snowed in the morning, and it began to be thin and urgent. Later, the snowflakes grew up and fluttered. Take an umbrella and go around Nanluoguxiang.
it's still during the epidemic, so you should take your temperature at the door. When I arrived, it was already half past eleven, and the snow had turned into a light snow nest. As the edges melted, it looked cold and windy, which was really not beautiful. But fortunately, there are not many people. It is said that the peak of people flow here reached 3 thousand, and now it is less than one tenth of the previous one.
Nanluoguxiang is a north-south alley less than 8 meters long and 8 meters wide. It is said that it was built in the same period as the Yuan Dynasty, so long ago! Nanluoguxiang is high in the middle and low on both sides, like a hunchback old man, so it was first called Luoguo Lane, and it was changed to Nanluoguxiang in the Qing Dynasty until now.
The west of Nanluoguxiang is Di 'anmenwai Street, the south is Gulou East Street, the east is Jiaokou South Street, and the north is Di 'anmen East Street. I entered from Di 'anmen East Street. Four streets surround Nanluoguxiang. I can't say whether it is rectangular or not.
this is a real residential area.
It's not far north into Nanluoguxiang. The first alley in the east is Fried Bean Hutong. At Hutongkou, I saw a middle-aged man introducing a man and a woman to the monk's palace, and I also listened to a few words.
The Monk's Palace is the residence of Prince Sengqin in Qing Dynasty. It spans two hutongs, namely Fried Bean Hutong and Banchang Hutong. The front door is at No.71-77 of Fried Bean Hutong, and the back door is at No.3-34 of Banchang Hutong. Such a large area is really enviable! This antique courtyard house has now been converted into a hotel called "Lvsongyuan".
The first hutong I entered was Banchang Hutong in the east of Nanluoguxiang. Because the Monk's Palace was not open, I didn't see the beauty and tranquility of this quadrangle.
The second alley you enter is Yuer Hutong in the west. Because there are few parking spaces in this hutong, the road surface is wide and straight. Not far from the entrance, there is a sign that says "Museum of Intangible Heritage". When you enter, it is a frontispiece on the second floor. On the first floor, there are many exhibitions of old things, such as sewing machines, old record players and a set of red ladies' clothes in the Qing Dynasty. On the left are some old photos. The second floor is a small commodity area, selling all kinds of small commodities.
further inside, there is the memorial hall of Qi Baishi's former residence in No.13 yard. The gate is closed, and there is a sign in black and white at the door: announcement of closure. Not open.
Go further north, and the third hutong you enter is the East Mianhua Hutong. There are many parking places in this hutong, and the car is covered with water stains and fallen leaves, which looks very messy. However, the pagoda tree in the alley is tall and lush, which adds a bit of quietness and elegance.
No.39 Academy, our Central Academy of Drama, used to be the old residence of Jin Yunpeng, the army chief of Duan Qirui Government and acting Prime Minister of the State Council. It doesn't look like a big place here, but there are two male gods, Chen Baoguo and Chen Daoming. Love me, love my dog! Haha, there is a sense of intimacy.
Maoer Hutong, which should be regarded as a distinguished hutong, is to the west of Nanluoguxiang.
No.5 Courtyard, not far from Hutong, is a clean and spacious quadrangle with the words: Beijing Cultural Relics Protection Unit. But it is also written in black and white: closed units refuse to visit. Oh, is this heart blocked?
further inside, that is, going west, No.11 Courtyard was the residence of Wen Yu, a university student in Wuying Hall during Guangxu period of Qing Dynasty. This is a very big place, which is connected by several courtyards, and the east side of the gate is covered by a large area. The courtyard gate swallowed about five meters, and the steps at the door were paved with stone slabs of 3 centimeters. The wind and rain erosion and more people left, so the stone slabs were polished. I heard that there is also a "Keyuan" covering an area of four acres, which is also very good, but I didn't see the name plate of "Keyuan", maybe it was blocked. It was also the North Korean Embassy in China.
then the 13th courtyard was once the residence of Feng Guozhang, a northern warlord.
Courtyard No.35 and No.37 are the former residence of the last empress Wanrong and the cultural relics protection unit, but it looks too ordinary, and I can't see anything special here. The gate of No.37 was half open, and the bluestone at the door had a deep subsidence. I don't know what happened. There was a big car parked at the gate of No.35 courtyard, and it was stuck at the door. The leaves on the car were in a mess, and the ground was in a mess, which was very sad and melancholy.
Further west, Courtyard No.45 is the once prefect yamen of the Qing Dynasty. As in the previous places, all visitors are refused. This is really a cool day for people.
I went from Doujiao Hutong behind Maoer Hutong to Jingyang Hutong in the north of Maoer Hutong. I didn't see anything special in Jingyang Hutong.
Opposite Jingyang Hutong is Qinlao Hutong. The most famous place in Qinlao Hutong is Qiyuan, the residence of Mingshan, the minister of internal affairs of the Qing Dynasty in No.35 courtyard. It is said that not only pavilions, terraces, buildings and pavilions in Qiyuan are quite charming, but also there is a boat-shaped open porch in the garden, which is very unique. However, I still can't see anything because it's not open. The gate of this mansion is not very big, and the brick carvings on it are complicated and delicate, very delicate.
further east, there are some of my favorite ash trees. The yellow leaves are swaying in the wind and flying like butterflies from time to time. I think ash trees have charm in all seasons. The branches in winter are vigorous and strong, the new buds in spring are bright yellow, the crown of trees is covered in summer, and autumn is the most beautiful. That tree is soft and bright yellow.
Go out of Qinlao Hutong and then go north. Not far to the east is Qianyuan Ensi Hutong, opposite to Shajing Hutong in the west. Courtyard 15, 17 and 19 of Shajing Hutong is the residence of Kui Jun, whose name was Le Feng (1843 -1916), a minister of Qing Dynasty and a calligrapher. Governor of Sichuan in the late Qing Dynasty, one of the four rich men in Beijing, and uncle of Rong Lu, the eldest brother in the late Qing Dynasty.
Go south after leaving Shajing Hutong, and then enter Houyuan Ensi Hutong in the east. No.17 Houyuan Ensi Hutong is the Beijing Children's Art Theatre. Through the big glass window, you can see the teacher guiding the students' training, and at that time, you can see a young mother taking her children in through the corner door next to it.
No.13 Courtyard of Houyuan Ensi Hutong is the former residence of contradiction, which is the only open place in Nanluoguxiang on this day, but you need to scan the code to make an appointment. You can enter at that time after scanning the code, but you need an ID card. What bothers me is that it took me a long time to remember that I didn't bring my ID card! How upset you are, how hot and smart you are, you know?
We have to go inside, that is, to the east. Courtyard No.2 is Heizhima Hutong Primary School. The sign on the wall reads "Beijing Cultural Relics Protection Unit, with the remains of official school buildings inlaid with Huangqi". The door is closed. From the crack of the door, we can see an antique and quiet yard with red walls and green tiles, and the houses are scattered.
Chiang Kai-shek's hangyuan is not far away. After War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression's victory, it became Chiang Kai-shek's hangyuan in Peiping, which also witnessed Chiang Kai-shek's political decline from peak to trough. It used to be the house where Prince Qing Qing carried his second son. It is a combination of Chinese and western architecture, with a western building, a quadrangle and a garden. Because I saw a small round ceiling like a white pavilion, all of which were seen from outside the wall.
I thought there was a former Yuanen Temple Hutong and a later Yuanen Temple Hutong, and there was a Yuanen Temple or a site in the middle house, but I didn't see anything until the end. When I came out to Nanluoguxiang, I asked the volunteer aunt standing in the alley. I was told that there is no temple, just a name ...
Then the Black Sesame Hutong in the west and the Black Sesame Hutong Primary School in the Black Sesame Hutong, this is a more modern primary school campus. The name of the school is Mr. Contradiction's autograph. In September 2, Dongcheng District Education Bureau merged Qianyuan Ensi Primary School and Kuanjie (part of it) into "Dongcheng District Black Sesame Primary School".
There is also a stone tablet in the Hutong that says the origin of Chinese characters in China. Many murals on the wall are used to interpret and interpret it.
Going further north, the Ju 'er Hutong in the east is famous. It is famous not because of many famous people's former residences, but because the "new quadrangle" in Hutong has both the beauty of the houses in the south of the Yangtze River and the charm of the old quadrangle in Beijing. It is a dangerous building renovation project designed by the architect Wu Liangyong, and was awarded the "Asian Architecture Gold Award" by the "Asian Architecture Association" in 1992. In 1993, he was awarded the "World Habitat Award".
No.7 Courtyard of Ju 'er Hutong is Ronglu House, the western building, quadrangle and garden of Ronglu, an important official of Qing Dynasty. Used to be the Afghan embassy in China. Here, I only saw the brief introduction of two Ronglu mansions, which are under construction and are not allowed to visit.
I walked through Nanluoguxiang from south to north. The hutongs that I didn't go in were Fuxiang Hutong, Suoyi Hutong and Qiangulouyuan Hutong in the west. Fried Bean Hutong in the east and North Military Horse Hutong in the east. Sixteen hutongs are neatly arranged on both sides of Nanluoguxiang, such as fishbone structure and centipede-like, so Nanluoguxiang is also called "centipede" street.
The first words on the sign of Hutongkou all say "Zhaohui Square in Ming Dynasty" and "Jinggong Square in Ming Dynasty", with "Zhaohui Square" in the east and "Jinggong Square" in the west. I didn't know until I came back to Baidu that Lifang was the basic unit of China's ancient residential area organization. In the Ming Dynasty, Beijing was divided into 28 squares, and the two squares were merged and called "Zhaohui Jinggong Square". Nanluoguxiang is in the middle of two workshops, which are the only well-preserved historical remains.
In every alley of Nanluoguxiang, there are many second-gear, fourth-gear, round or hexagonal, pure or colorful lintels and three to five-step doorstones that are always silent, telling everyone who passed by about the ups and downs of that man and that house in Na Yue that year.
three or four hours is not very detailed. I haven't seen the legendary "emerald green bar". But I won't go in when I see you. I'm not an elegant person, but I'd like to see the scenery or something.
In the final analysis, my historical accumulation is not enough, and I can't tell the mottled memories of Nanluoguxiang, which are either romantic or sad and beautiful under the deep foundation.
Compared with the "Old Beijing Style Street" in Wangfujing, Nanluoguxiang is more like a "Style Street". Wangfujing Fengqing Street is full of small stalls, and Nanluoguxiang is a residential area. A dazzling array of shops with varied styles are embedded in the shade of gray bricks and green tiles, full of petty bourgeoisie. In fact, this place is a mixture of old and new things and new fashions, but in my mind, I regard the new as the old.
By one or two o'clock in the afternoon, I was very hungry. I wanted to eat all kinds of delicious food, but I couldn't bear to see the price. A glass of juice started at 18, a bowl of Zhajiang Noodles 2 (I ate old Beijing Zhajiang Noodles once, but it was not as delicious as my own), and a square piece of mung bean cake was 8, not to mention anything else. I don't know if 15 pieces of cold rice noodles are the cheapest. Alas, I am a person in this small place!
I like to drink milk tea. I stood in front of a milk tea shop, and the little girl who sold milk tea kept greeting me, letting me try her signature milk tea. I hesitated to look at the men and women with all kinds of food in the street, but I still didn't buy it. It's ok to sit in the store, but I really can't walk with it while eating in such a swaggering street.
I really want to have a taste of that famous "double-skin milk", have a sweet and fragrant "lightning puff", and hold a string of childhood Sugar-Coated Berry and a cup of hot rock candy Sydney juice. I ate a bowl of stewed food with him on the street that year, and the spring cake in the Moon Gate, would you like an old Beijing fried belly? The coffee of "local time" that has been lengthened.
I just saw a few elegant, weird or interesting shop names on the street, but I didn't go in any of them. This may be a pity for this trip to Nanluoguxiang, but for one thing, it's too cold to go shopping, and for another, I'm not interested in going shopping. Next year, when it's warm, come back and have a good day. Come back next year. Maybe those celebrities' former residences will be visited. What a pity!
Some people say that Nanluoguxiang at dusk is worth seeing, but this time it is doomed to be invisible. The sun shook and ran away, still cold, and I don't want to turn.
Let's look back at the centuries-old alleys, quaint and modern alleys, old streets, old stories, leisurely and leisurely lingering in Nanluoguxiang, lingering desires, and the past that can't be fully expressed.