Luoyang explained the tour guide "The national color is beautiful, and spring comes to Grain Rain late." The first weekend after Grain Rain, I was sent to Luoyang, where peonies are said to be in full bloom. More than a day's trip, in addition to the normal work arrangements, I also went to Longmen Grottoes, Lijingmen, China National Garden and Luoyang Museum. It's time to write at night, remember what you see and feel!
I. Longmen Grottoes
I have been longing for Longmen Grottoes for a long time. When we arrived in Longmen, high-speed railway station, it was drizzling in the sky. The statues and scenic spots of Longmen Grottoes are distributed on the mountains on both sides of the wide Yi River. Two antique stone bridges cross the river and connect the two sides.
There are various grotto statues on the right bank, some of which belong to ancient temples. Therefore, apart from the statues on the cliffs, there are no temples named after temples, such as Qianxi Temple and Fengxian Temple. The largest Lushena Buddha in Longmen Grottoes belongs to Fengxian Temple in ancient times. According to the Buddhist scriptures, Lushe means to shine. According to reports, the height of the Giant Buddha 17. 14m, with a head of 4m and an ear of 1.9m, is harmonious, serene and comfortable, which makes people respect and fear. In addition to Dongshan Grottoes, there are cultural relics and historic sites such as Xiangshan Temple and Baiyuan Garden on the left bank.
The construction of Buddha statues in Longmen area began in the reign of Emperor Xiaowen of the Northern Wei Dynasty, and lasted for about 400 years after the Eastern Wei Dynasty, the Western Wei Dynasty, the Northern Qi Dynasty, the Sui Dynasty, the Tang Dynasty, the Five Dynasties and the Song Dynasty. The largest Buddha statue is17m high, and the smallest is only 3cm. No matter where you pass, as long as you pay attention, you will find them in every corner of your eyes, high or low, big or small, but they are solemn and sacred.
Sculptors include royalty, dignitaries and ordinary people. They express their inner world by building Buddha statues on the mountains and place their hopes on this life or the afterlife. Time spans thousands of years, and the sculptor grows old in time. Under the influence of wind, sun and man-made destruction, the Buddha statues bearing faith have been partially incomplete or blurred in appearance, and some have even lost their niches.
Surprisingly, on the bare cliff, from time to time, unknown grass grows in front of the Buddhist shrine, and some are still in full bloom, quietly blooming in the rain and sunshine, so that everyone who sees it is consciously or unconsciously shocked by the soul, feels the greatness of Buddhism, admires the tenacity of life, and is moved by the persistence of every meritorious person. People have seen endless boos and sighs, and many of the sculptors' wishes are unknown to future generations, but the spirit and beliefs they carry and represent are still endless in people's hearts.
Dongshan is also known as Xiangshan because it is rich in fragrant pueraria. Compared with Xishan Mountain, many statues in Dongshan Mountain are located in steep positions. If you want to show your respect, you need to climb steep steps. Dongshan statues are slightly inferior to Xishan in scale, and most of them are not much different from Xishan except for their own characteristics.
Xiangshan Temple is located on the mountainside of Dongshan Mountain. The temple was built in the first year of Xiping in the Northern Wei Dynasty, and it was not completed until three years in the Tang Dynasty. Bhabharata (Rizhao), an Indian monk who came to China, was buried here to rebuild a Buddhist temple for her body. In the first year of God-given, Wu Zetian proclaimed himself emperor in Luoyang and established the Wu and Zhou Dynasties. Wu Sansi, King of Liang invited him to name it "Xiangshan Temple" and rebuild it. Wu Zetian often visits relatives and friends, leaving a story of "Xiangshan writes poetry and gets a robe".
It has been rebuilt five times in history. In the sixth year of Tang Dahe, Bai Juyi, a famous poet, donated money to rebuild Xiangshan Temple, and wrote "Notes on Xiuxiangshan Temple", "The scenery in the suburbs of Luodu is the best, Longmen Temple is the best, sightseeing is the best, and Xiangshan is the first", named Xiangshan. During the Kangxi period of Qing Dynasty, Emperor Qianlong visited Xiangshan Temple, and there was a poem "Two Poems of Xiangshan Temple" praising "Ten Temples in Longmen, the first place in Xiangshan". 1936 After the Xiangshan Temple was rebuilt, a two-story building called "Song Jiang Villa" was built in the temple to celebrate Chiang Kai-shek's 50th birthday. In the pavilion behind the villa, there are imperial pens left by Qianlong Youlong Gate, and the stone tablets are clear and well preserved.
Baiyuan Garden, located on the Pipa Peak in Dongshan, is the graveyard of Bai Juyi, a poet in the Tang Dynasty, and the end of the Dongshan tour. Bai Juyi became a "Buddhist in Xiangshan". For example, Monks Man and others formed the "Nine Old Societies in Xiangshan", chanting in the halls and forests of the temple. In the sixth year of Huichang (A.D. 846), Bai Juyi died of illness and was buried in Xiangshan Temple next to Ruman Master Tower.
At the entrance of the park, a waterfall slowly descended from the rockery, forming a pool of clear water. Climbing up the steps from the rockery side, the ancient trees and bamboos in the park are towering. There is a stele gallery where Japanese literati write Chinese characters, and calligraphy inscriptions are everywhere. On one side of the corridor, there is a teahouse selling snacks, tea leaves and peony stones with floral textures. Tourists often rest here for tea, and then visit the poet's grave.
There are many inscriptions by Chinese and foreign scholars around the tomb, mostly Japanese cultural scholars or organizations. Their affirmation and praise of the influence of Bai Shaofu on Japanese culture is not obscure in the text, and it can be described as a clean stream of Japanese culture that has become increasingly conceited, narrow and dark since the Tang and Song Dynasties, especially since modern times. We saw a flower bed in the white garden, and the flowers had withered. Some people say it's peony, but we didn't care about this sentence at that time.
Walking out of the white garden and looking back at the road, Xiangshan is green and the balcony is faint. Looking at the other side of the Yi River, the drizzle is like silk, and the shrine is crowded with people. I can't help but think of the poem "Jiangnan Spring" by Du Mu, a poet of the Tang Dynasty: "A thousand miles are green and red, and the water village is full of wine flags." Four hundred and eighty halls in southern dynasties, how many towers are misty and rainy. "
Not Raiders: When you go out to Longmen high-speed railway station, there is a tourist bus K9 1, and everyone gets on 1.5 yuan, about two stops. In Longmen Grottoes, you can buy electronic tickets in Longmen Mall through the official WeChat account, and you need to enter a person's ID number and mobile phone number to buy tickets. Generate a bar code after purchasing tickets, and the bar code can be printed in the ticket hall. If you don't play, you need the ticket inspector to scan the code.
Second, Lijingmen.
"If you ask about the rise and fall of ancient and modern times, please only look at Luoyang City". In the Ming Dynasty, a wall made of blue bricks was built on the basis of the former site of Jin and Yuan Dynasties. The circumference of this city is 8 miles and 340 steps. The wall is four feet high, the trench is five feet deep and three feet wide. There are four gates in the city, namely East Jianchun Gate, West Lijing Gate, South Changximen and North An Ximen. The Regent Gate Tower has been destroyed and defeated many times. Today, Lijingmen was built on the original site by the local government in 2002. From a distance, the city wall stands tall, with a river under it and a urn in the middle, which is quite imposing and poetic.
However, entering Wengcheng from the first door, the city wall is still magnificent, but the hawker's cries, the whistle of motorcycles, the simple and rude signboards hanging on the city wall and the remote windows have made the newly rising poetry disappear. These signs, including street restaurants, elegant ceramic shops and painting and calligraphy art studios, are big and smelly, welded directly on two parallel steel pipes and penetrated into the city wall. Look up at the couplets on the pillars of the inner city gate building, I can't understand them. After reading them, everything in front of me seems to have an answer. Couplets are also easy to understand. "It is also a waste to come to Luoyang City until you reach Lijingmen."
Entering the inner city, there is no electric car, but there are more people, more shops on both sides, and the shouts of vendors are getting louder and louder. People eat kebabs here, drink all kinds of beef soup, meatball soup, non-turning soup, etc. These are old brands, which have been reported by XX media many times, queuing up to taste other traditional foods, and I can't remember the names. Of course, people also buy cheap porcelain, calligraphy and painting here. Only the doors and windows of old clinics and hospitals are closed. I wonder if they still play their role in the noise during the day.
Shops have set up stalls in front of their houses. Old streets that are not wide enough are compressed by street vendors, and only 3-4 people can walk side by side. There is a green trash can at intervals in the middle of the old street. The lid was lifted high and the garbage was filled, making the originally crowded old street even more crowded. Although there is basically no scattered garbage on the ground, this kind of trash can that constantly impacts the line of sight makes people feel unspeakable.
One of the trash cans is very special. It's stuffed with bamboo sticks, like barbecue or Sugar-Coated Berry. The bamboo stick exploded outward at the barrel mouth, and the barrel mouth was very high. From a distance, it looks like a small pile of wheat straw standing proudly in the middle of the old street, separating the bustling crowd from the middle and forming a whirlpool around people. There is a barbecue stall in the trash can. Two contradictory things have been ignored by everyone, and the business on the stall is booming.
Because I was in a hurry, I didn't have a formal meal one day, so I found a small shop on the street and ate meatball soup, peony steamed buns, and a bean curd with a forgotten name. Objectively speaking, the taste of snacks is ok, but the hygiene in various places is really not flattering. There is no power supply in the disinfection cabinet, and some dishes taken out of it are even covered with unwashed leaves. The chopsticks in the disinfection cabinet seem to have just been fished out of the water and are still dripping.
Squeeze into the crowd, have some snacks and then squeeze out. There are lights on both sides of the street. The lamp is led from the store to the stall at the door of the house by wire, picked up with bamboo poles, and lit up according to the bustling and crowded street at the door, as well as the dark windows and gatehouses on the wall. At this time, Wengcheng was relatively quiet. The business people in the store either sit and drink tea, or simply pack up and stare at the mobile phone. If tourists come in and don't take the initiative to ask for items, most of them won't take the initiative to talk. Walking outside the city, several vendors dressed as the Monkey King are assiduously soliciting people to take photos with the ancient city behind them on the bridge.
There is a bus from Longmen Grottoes to Lijingmen, but you need to transfer midway. There are about 30 stops, and the time is about one hour, ***3 yuan money/person. Considering comfort or taking a taxi, I estimate that the fare is around 50 yuan. There are not many hotels within one kilometer around Lijingmen, and there is a hotel on the left hand side of the left-hand corner when you go out. Standard room 180 yuan/night, with bed, bathroom, shower and TV (I don't know why there was no signal on the night of check-in), it was fairly clean. If there is no paper and mineral water in the room, you can ask the front desk for it. The front desk has a good attitude.
Third, China National Garden.
As a Shandong native, I don't agree with the saying that "Luoyang peony is the best in the world", but it seems a little regrettable not to go to Luoyang to see peony. It is said that there are many places in Luoyang where peonies can be seen. Based on the principle of saving time, we chose Country Garden in China, which is not far from Lijingmen.
Traditional Chinese Painting Garden covers an area of 1548 mu, and is divided into six scenic spots from west to east, namely: West Entrance Scenic Spot, Peony Cultural Zone, Peony Historical and Cultural Zone, Embankment Sightseeing Zone, East Entrance Scenic Spot and Production Management Zone. Among them, there are 500,000 varieties of peony, 1 1,000 varieties, including nine color systems of peony, more than 2 million trees, shrubs and various plants, and 1 1,000 varieties, which has the reputation of "the first national garden in China".
We enter from the east entrance. Shortly after entering the park, I saw a dozen flowers in the biluocong competing to open. Someone said "peony" in the back, so everyone swarmed, cameras, mobile phones, selfies, flowers, in short, a burst of disorderly shooting. The photo vendors next to them also took the opportunity to come and solicit business.
I wanted to leave after filming. I don't know who said "Hey, this flower is fake". When I went back to look carefully, it really happened. The stall owner who just got the photo of the business said nothing and looked calm, urging the customer who took the photo to pay. Several unsuccessful vendors came with cameras on their backs. "Do you want to shoot peony flowers? Now that the flowering period has passed, we know where the garden is still in full bloom. " It makes people feel that they ate flies for breakfast just now.
I have formed a psychological shadow. Whenever I see peony in the subsequent tour, I will carefully identify the true and false before taking pictures.
Peony has withered, peony is in full bloom, real flowers and fake flowers are sometimes easy to distinguish, but peony and peony are sometimes difficult for people who don't raise grass. Later, I found a very simple law. Nine times out of ten, peony is a shelter. This simple method has been verified by flower recognition software, and there are few mistakes.
Cabbage, Yao Huang, Zhao Fen bean green. Standing in front of a withered peony garden, watching the slender branches holding huge and distinct flowers, I think peony is really weak, but not charming, really "expensive", but not vulgar. She grows, blooms and withers according to the natural rhythm, without waiting, relying on or demanding of herself or others. She came, met, it was fate, didn't come, didn't miss it, and had no regrets. I think maybe this is why she is respected and loved!
The garden is named after the national flower, and the scenic spots are naturally related to peony. Pavilions, small gardens and secluded paths, some take famous peony varieties, such as Fire Refined then Square, Jingeyuban Square and Er Qiao Pavilion.
Some take poems and legends about peony from ancient books, such as Qiuweng Yuxian Square, Ouyang Xiubei Square and Bai Juyi Beifang; There are also some scenic spots taken from famous gardens related to peony in history, such as national flower terrace and spoon garden. I have always thought that pavilions and couplets should complement each other, but the couplets of pavilions in the garden are either directly taken from related ancient poems or by later generations, and the scenery is acceptable, but there are basically no good sentences that complement each other with the scenery.
I don't know much about gardening, but from the perspective of appreciation, I think plants, landscapes and secluded paths are indispensable to gardens. There is a lake in the national park called "Yanxiu". Its name and origin have not been verified. A wide water is connected with the lake, and rockery waterfalls are stacked in the lake. The artistic conception is acceptable, but the pine trees behind the mountain magnify the artificial traces of the landscape, which is not unacceptable between downtown areas.
What impressed me deeply was the small island in the water by the lake. Several white geese looked around under several weeping willows, looking carefree. Occasionally, fish jumped out of the water under the shadow of weeping willows, making a loud noise, which made the geese on the shore waddle to the depths of Liu Yin. There is a newborn lotus by the river, and the size of the lotus leaf is similar to that of the lotus. When I leaned down to look closely, I saw a little black fish landing in a shallow water above the lotus leaf, turning over uneasily, as if trying to get rid of the current situation.
There is a bus from Lijingmen to the east gate of Ethnic Garden, about 10 stop. Generally speaking, going to a national park won't be amazing, but you won't regret the tickets to 30 yuan. When I went, there was a folk museum in the east gate for free, so I went in specially to have a look. Because the second floor is not open, I only saw the first floor. I thought I couldn't go after collecting the tickets!
Fourth, Luoyang Museum.
Museums are a great temptation to me. After visiting a museum during the Spring Festival, keratitis suddenly became serious. Later, my wife has been strongly opposed to going to the museum, but old habits are hard to change. I shouldn't have gone this time, but when I was told that the change failed, my first reaction was to go to the museum.
The exterior of Luoyang Museum looks like a huge tripod, and the main building is khaki, standing high in the center of a huge empty square. When she first caught my eye in the drizzle, I was really shocked. I think she explained the role of culture between heaven and earth with excellent images, and stubbornly strengthened the status of Luoyang, a low-key ancient capital, in the history of China.
On the day of our visit, about four exhibition halls in the museum were open at the same time, all of which were worth seeing. However, due to time constraints, we finally visited the peony-themed cultural relics special exhibition in the Palace Museum carefully and the Luoyang Cultural Relics Exhibition roughly. These two exhibitions are perfect in terms of layout level and exhibit types. If we must be picky, we may not consider how the exhibition interacts with visitors. Maybe such an exhibition can't interact with visitors at all.
Not Raiders: Luoyang Museum is very close to the National Garden, and the taxi fare is below that of 20 yuan. Rental in Luoyang does not need Didi, but 95 128app. The two taxi drivers I met during this period were very young, enthusiastic and had a good attitude.
Verb (abbreviation of verb) postscript
I basically walk because of work, and I come and go in a hurry every time. Occasionally, I will go deep into the streets and scenic spots of the city and wander among the citizens and tourists in a hurry. I often feel that the so-called walking is lonely and meaningless.
I have been trying to express every lonely walk in words and share my feelings with everyone who has walked the same road, seen the same scenery and even passed by. At the same time, I also wrote to her who often complained that she had never traveled together except home. At this time, I feel that walking is also happy!