Cai Xiang (10 12 ~ 1067) was a native of Xinghua Xianyou (now Fujian) in the Northern Song Dynasty. Mo Jun was a famous tea expert in the Northern Song Dynasty. During the Qing Dynasty (104 1 ~ 1048), Song Renzong was appointed as Fujian transshipment ambassador, responsible for supervising the production of Beiyuan tribute tea, and created a small group of tea, which was famous all over the world.
original text
Fellow initiate Cai Xiang in Youzhengyan, Lang Feng (1) made progress: Your Majesty Fumeng instructed me to go to Fujian for transshipment first, and the top grade dragon tea I got was the best. Forgive my humble opinion, but insult your majesty's knowledge first. If I get this land, I can make full use of it. Yesterday, Lu Yu's tea classics were not the first product of Jian 'an; Tea Map of Song Dynasty in Ding Wei (②) is the only one based on collecting and processing, but as for cooking, it has never been heard of. I need to do a few things, simple and easy to understand, divided into two parts, called tea record. It would be my great honor if I could entertain you or let you enjoy the scenery. Only order.
To annotate ...
(1) Notes of Chao, You and fellow initiates: Chao and You were official names in the Northern Song Dynasty. A special record of the words and deeds of ancient emperors in China. The Chronicles of Sui Shu said: "People who start taking notes record what people say and what they stop doing."
(2) Ding Wei Tea Map in Song Dynasty: Ding Wei was born in Changzhou, Suzhou (now Suzhou, Jiangsu) in Song Dynasty (966 ~ 1037). He used to be the ambassador of Fujian Cao, the producer of tribute tea and the creator of Dalong Fengtuan cake tea, which was the most expensive tea in the Song Dynasty. Ouyang Xiu once praised that "tea is more expensive than dragon and phoenix, so it is called group tea." Beiyuan Tea Story consists of three volumes.
The first part discusses the original tea.
Dark brown is expensive, white. Moreover, cake tea is mostly precious and oily, so there is a difference between green, yellow and purple and black tea. People who are good at saying goodbye to tea are as popular as those who look at each other. (1), which is hidden in it. It is not enough to focus on meat. Yellow and white people suffer from heavy water, and blue and white people suffer from bright water. Therefore, Jian 'an people tried (2) to beat yellow and white with blue and white.
Huang Ru's "Tea Tasting Record" said that the steaming of tea buds and the climate are indispensable. If the color is yellow and the millet grain is big, the disease of overripe is also. However, although it is overcooked, the more unfamiliar it is, the sweeter it is. Therefore, when it comes to color, it is green, Bai Sheng, yellow and white; Speaking of taste, yellow is better than green.
Sweet tea smells good. Tributes use borneol and ointment to help them smell incense. Jian 'an people are not fragrant and dare not take their truth. If you cook with rare fruits and herbs, it will be very beneficial. Just don't use it.
There is a fragrant tea method in Zhu Quan's Tea Spectrum, which can be used by anyone who has fragrant flowers. When the flowers are in full bloom, they should be separated by bamboo cages with paper paste, with tea on the upper layer and flowers on the lower layer, sealed and fixed, and old flowers should be replaced by overnight flowers. For several days, its tea has its own fragrance and loveliness. If you don't need flowers, you can smoke them with borneol.
"Continued Tea Classic" is that cloud tea is lewd and easy to pollute, no matter how smelly it is, it should not be close, that is, the name and fragrance should not be close.
The taste of tea is mainly sweet and smooth. However, the Phoenix Mountain in Beiyuan belongs to all kinds of bakeries and tastes good. (3) The mountains separated by streams, though made by time, are thick in color and taste, which is beyond our reach. And spring water, unwilling to spoil the taste of tea. Shangbeizi's water quality theory is based on this (4).
? Song Zian is also the best place to enjoy the unique clouds in Beiyuan, which is connected with mountains. In front of Beiyuan, there is a stream, more than a few miles. What kind of tea is so turbid, particularly rare and evil, and far away? Oranges crossing the Huaihe River are also bitter oranges.
Tibetan tea should be fragrant and afraid of fragrant medicine (5), prefer warm and dry, and avoid wet and cold. Therefore, the collection house is wrapped in bamboo leaves and baked every two or three days. The fire is often as warm as human body temperature, so it is humid. If the fire is too big, tea and cola can't be eaten.
Baked tea or years, the fragrance, color and taste are old. Boil the soup stains in the detergent, scrape off one or two layers of ointment, clamp them in a frying pan (6), dry them with low fire, and then crush them. If tea is a new product of that year, it goes without saying.
Grind tea leaves. Grind the tea leaves with clean paper and cook them. Its main point is that the color is white after spinning or dim after staying.
Luo cha Luo rules tea floating, strong tea floating (7).
Waiting for soup (8) is the most difficult. Immature foam floats, overripe tea sinks, and (9), which was called crab eye in my previous life, is overripe soup. Cooking in a sink bottle is indisputable, so waiting for soup is the most difficult.
Lighting (10). "Who wants a cup of tea? You must heat it first. Cold keeps the tea from floating.
Less tea and more soup will make your feet loose (11); With less soup and more tea, porridge and noodles will gather (12). A penny for tea, the soup is injected first and the order is even, and then the circle is added to fight back. You can serve soup in four minutes. Look at its bright white face. It's wonderful to wear a waterless label. Jian 'an fighting, the first negative with watermark, the last one wins. Therefore, compared with the theory of winning and losing, it is said that there is a difference between one water and two water (13).
To annotate ...
(1) Just like the popularity of physiognomy: physiognomy, a person who takes pictures of others as his profession. A glance, an evil look.
(2) Jian 'an: the name of the county in the Han Dynasty, called Jianzhou in the Tang Dynasty, and now Jian 'ou County in Fujian Province. Its county boundaries include Jianxi and Fenghuang Mountain, and it is famous for producing "Beiyuan tribute tea".
(3) Phoenix Mountain in Beiyuan: Phoenix Mountain is twenty miles west of Jian 'an County, Fujian Province, and is the main producing area of "Beiyuan tribute tea". Fengshan is in the east of the stream and Huangshan is in the west of the stream, which are collectively called Phoenix Mountain.
In the Song Dynasty, Yunfeng Mountain in Ding Wei was less than 100 feet high, and there was no danger room. Surrounded by mountains, it is graceful and suitable for the development of excellent plants and flowers.
(4) Those who talked about parallel imports in a previous life: refers to the Book of Fried Tea Written by Zhang Wenxin in the Tang Dynasty, which contains 20 kinds of products listed by Lu Yu: the water curtain of Kang Wang Valley in Lushan Mountain is the first; Huishan Temple in Wuxi County has a second spring; Lanxi stone in qi zhou is the third in the water; Zhou Xiafan has a sudden stone at the foot of the mountain, and Shui Han is cool, like a turtle, and the vulgar cloud drools, fourth; Suzhou huqiu temple shiquan water fifth; Lushan zhaoxian temple bridge has the sixth pool water; Yangzi Jiangnan zero water seventh; Hongzhou Xishan east-west waterfall water eighth; Tongbai County, Tang Zhou has the ninth water source, and Huai water is also good. Luzhou Longchi landscape tenth; The 11th Water Conservancy Institute of Kannonji, Danyang County; Yangzhou daming temple water twelfth; There is no water in the middle of the upper reaches of Jinzhou District of Hanjiang River, and the water is bitter; The 14th Xiangxi River under Yuxiu Cave in Guizhou; Shangzhou Wu Guanxi Luoshui 15th; Never muddy. Sixteenth in Wu Song River; The 17th Zhang Qian Waterfall in the southwest peak of Tiantai Mountain; Eighteen rounds of spring in Chenzhou; Tonglu Yanling beach water nineteenth; Snow water is the twentieth, and the snow should not be too cold.
There are four other stages of bamboo springs in the Ming Dynasty: Qiquan Spring in Qingchengshan Old Village is the first, Zhongshan Eight Merits is the second, Hongya Water is the third, and Zhugen Spring is the fourth.
(5) Tea should be fragrant. Medicine: fragrant, weak, leaves like bamboo, weak. Tea has a strong odor absorption and is most afraid of being put together with other spices.
(6) Clam with cymbals: cymbals, tea-making utensils. See next time: "Qujintie is made from roasted tea."
(7) Roughness leads to water floating: water floating means that tea powder is viscous, water cannot penetrate, and water and tea powder are insoluble.
(8) Waiting for soup: Ancient people used special wooden language to order tea. Refers to mastering the moderation of decocting water. Lu Yu's "Tea Classic" and "Five Sores" said: "Boiling is like a fish's eye, whispering is a sore, and the edge is like a spring, two sores, and waves are three sores. If you fill it with water, you will be old and cannot eat it. " Future generations can't drink blind soup that is not boiled, and the over-boiled soup is bad and bitter, which is not good to drink. The tender soup that has just been boiled is the best tea soup. Or: "If the soup is tender, the tea will not work. If it is too boiling, the water will be old and the tea will be exhausted." It can be seen that tea should be cooked just right, neither old nor tender.
(9) People who were called "crab eyes" in their previous lives: In the Tang Dynasty, people used "fish eyes" and "crab eyes" to compare the color of boiled water. For example, Pi Rixiu's tea poem: "When you look at a crab's eyes splashing, you can see a fish scale floating at a glance". Crab's eyes are small and thin, sudden and round. Compared with fish's eyes, it is big and thick, flat and flat. It is the initial situation of boiling water, and it is a real tender soup that is cooked but not old.
(10) Ancient town is a special term for ancient people to order tea. That is, before filling the soup, you can heat the teacup with boiling water or charcoal fire. Song, Ji Yun explained: "Fire forces you".
Song Huizong and Evonne also pointed out in "Daguan Tea Theory": "If the lamp is only hot, the tea will last. Song Dingzhan's fetal bones are delicate and white, the glaze color is smooth and bright, the shape is regular, the printing is exquisite, and the texture is far better than that of Jianzhan, which is close to the capital of Song Dynasty. Song Huizong, who is far away, worships building tires, because the tire walls of Ding Hei and Ziding are extremely thin, so they will cool quickly after holding the cup, and it is not easy to keep warm. When it is cold, the tea leaves do not float, and water marks are easy to appear, which is not suitable for the requirements of tea fighting. However, the carcass of the floor lamp is thick, "it is the most important to use it when it is hot for a long time", and "it is inferior to those who go out of town, no matter how thin or purple", so there is no need to try it.
(1 1) Yunjiaosan: a special term for ancient people to order tea. When there is little water in tea, some tea powder floats on the water, while others float in the water, which is as scattered as a cloud foot. Yunzu is also a tea name.
Song Mei Yao Chen's "Song Zuo sent Phoenix Tea" said: "Clouds are precious, and birds are hesitant to blow." Cloud-footed birds are all cloud tea.
(12) porridge and noodle party: a special term for ancient people to order tea. Refers to the long-term lack of water and tea. Tea leaves will not gather on the water, like cooked porridge noodles. People call it Yunzu porridge noodles.
? Song Zian said, "If the buds choose fat milk, it will be sweet and the porridge will not come loose." If the soil buds are short and the clouds are messy, it is easy to disperse after the lights are turned off. "The cloud scale of porridge also depends on the quality of tea.
(13) As the saying goes, "One water and two waters are different": the ancients competed for tea and won more than once. For example, after hitting the water mark three times, it is negative after reading it twice. Song Chaobuzhi has a poem saying: "Jian 'an, one water goes to two water, how do you know the path and Wei?" "
The second part discusses the original text of tea set.
Tea roasting tea roasting bamboo is wrapped with bamboo leaves and covered on it to collect fire. Separated, tolerance is great. When the fire goes into tea, it is warm at room temperature, so tea is also delicious.
? If the tea is not baked in a tea cage, it should be sealed, packed in a basket and placed in a high place away from moisture.
? ? The anvil (1) is covered with tea; The anvil is made of wood; Vertebra or gold or iron, take it and use it conveniently.
? Tea wok Tea wok is made of gold and iron and is used to bake tea leaves.
Tea House Tea House is made of silver or iron. Gold is soft, copper and? ? All stones produce flies (2), so they are useless.
Tea is very good. Luo Di painted the secret of silk with the goose creek in Dongchuan, Sichuan, and wiped it in the soup to have strength (3). ) tea floats, and strong water floats. )
The teacup (4) is white and should be black. Jian 'an is black, and the grain is like rabbit hair (5). Its blank is slightly thick, and it is hard to be cold after a long time, so it is the most important to use. Those who go out of town, whether thin or purple, are not as good as them. Its blue and white light is not needed by the tester.
? Teaspoon teaspoon should be heavy and powerful. Gold is the best, and silver and iron are the best in the world. Bamboo is weak, tea is not taken. (It's not bad for Zhu Quan to use coconut shells in the Ming Dynasty.)
? The soup bottle should be small, easy to wait for the soup, and the tea and soup should be ordered accurately. Gold is the best, and silver, iron or porcelain stone is the best in the world. (Zhu Quan said that if it is not ripe, it will froth; if it is too ripe, it will sink the tea.)
To annotate ...
(1) Anvil: anvil, correct pronunciation, chopping block. Vertebra, impact tools, such as wooden vertebrae and iron vertebrae.
(2) copper and? ? Every stone can be born: all his life, Ji Yun explained: "Iron clothes are also". That is, the rust of metal. ? ? Stone, natural brass, natural copper or brass made of copper and calamine.
Zhu Quan's Tea Spectrum says that bismuth can be produced from gold, silver, copper and iron, and lapis lazuli is the best. The Book of Tea is made of orange wood, followed by pear, mulberry and tongzhe. Inner ring is ready to move, outer ring is in danger.
(3) Powder for washing soup: powder, cover and cover.
(4) teacup: teacup. Dialect "lamp, cup also". There are many rare varieties of tea cups in Song Dynasty, such as rabbit millicup: there are striped crystal stripes on the glaze, which are as thin as rain and as soft as rabbit millicup; Partridge lamp: the glaze pattern is round spots, such as a beautiful partridge bird with floating oil beads, also known as oil drop lamp; Wooden leaf lamp: made of mulberry leaves and bodhi leaves; Decorative lantern: it is made of paper-cut and pasted into a carcass, which is gorgeous and noble; Persimmon red light: the glaze color is like autumn ripe persimmon; Wujin War: Pure color black, simple and quiet.
(5) The creator of Jian 'an is black, and the tattoo is like rabbit hair: black and dark blue, with red. The pattern is like rabbit hair, and there are filiform white stripes on the surface of black glaze, which looks like rabbit hair. According to the reporter's understanding, this kind of cup named "Millie Cup of Black Glazed Rabbit" was dedicated to tribute and Jian 'an by the royal family in the Northern Song Dynasty.
original text
Later, ministers Huang You and Zhong Xiu took notes (1), played Emperor Injong, and asked Heaven many times, so he tried to dedicate tea to Jian 'an. I said that although drinking tea is forbidden in China, nothing is a secret. There are two records about making tea. Later, when I learned about Fuzhou, I stole Tibetan Qiu (2) and gave it to the secretary in charge. I can't remember it clearly. Fan Ji of Huai 'an County bought it and published it for good people, but there were many mistakes (3). I shed tears when I think of the kindness of my ancestors. I need to add a positive definition. This book is to make it last forever. In the first year of Zhiping (5), on May 26th, the third commander minister Cai Xiang (6).
To annotate ...
(1) Chen Zhongxiu's first note: It is the year number of Renzong in the Northern Song Dynasty, ranging from 1049 to 1053.
(2) After knowing Fuzhou, he stole the manuscript for the palm secretary and presided over it. Knowing Fuzhou, he will be the governor of Fuzhou. Zhang is a government official who is responsible for writing and playing official documents.
(3) There are many mistakes: reading is like a boat, confusing.
(4) Book is to stone: In the first year of Song Zhiping (1064), Huai 'an ordered Fan Ji to carve Cai Xiang's Tea Story into stone and regard it as a masterpiece in the book.
(5) The first year of Zhiping: Zhiping is the title of Song Yingzong. The first year of Zhiping was 1064.
(6) Three Secretaries: all official names in the Northern Song Dynasty. In the Northern Song Dynasty, the Three Ambassadors were in charge of the cashier of the national money valley and balanced the fiscal revenue and expenditure. They were the highest financial officials of the central government and were called "phase counting". In the Song Dynasty, those who divided daily affairs into provinces read internal and external cashier documents, criticized improper laws, awarded officials, and recorded memorials every day to correct their violations.
Please also note:
1 Gao Zhen is also called "tea cream". Auxiliary materials for ancient tea making. In the Song Dynasty, when making group iced tea, the paste was coated outside the tea body, mainly to improve the appearance and delay the aging.
Goose creek silk is produced in Yanting County, Sichuan Province. Tributes in the Tang Dynasty, especially paintings and calligraphy in the Song Dynasty. Su Song-Shi's "Two Rhymes of Answering Poems": "If you want to love the white cocoon light of Goose Creek, sweep away the residual chickens with purple awns. ''
3 try this refers to fighting tea, that is, the advantages and disadvantages of tea competition, also known as fighting tea and fighting tea. Tea-fighting people take their own tea, take turns to cook it, and divide it into high and low levels. It began in the Tang Dynasty and flourished in the Song Dynasty. "Biography of Mei Fei" records that Xuanzong and Princess Mei Fei competed for tea, and Gu Wang said, "This plum is also beautiful. Blowing white Yu Di makes Jinghong Dance glorious. " The tea party beat me again. "The princess replied," the game of flowers and trees hit your majesty by mistake. "If you set up an envoy to reconcile the four seas, cooking is the best, and Wancheng has its own constitution, how can I compete with the winner?" Song replied to Jiayou magazine that Su Caiweng and Cai Pincha used Huishan Spring. Su tea is inferior, and it is better to fry it with bamboo juice. (Continued Tea Classic) Su Caiweng drinks tea with bamboo juice from the roof, but not bamboo juice. It is inappropriate for doctors today to use fire to force bamboo to take tea and drain it. )
4 Beiyuan tea, the beauty of tea house, is called "Beiyuan tea". "Continued Tea Classic" says that the taste of husband's tea is the most important, and sweetness is the whole taste, but the products of Beiyuan Heyuan have both, and the outstanding products are really fragrant and really delicious.
The name of Beiyuan began in the Five Dynasties. Yao Kuan, a poet in the Song Dynasty, wrote in Xixi Yu Cong: "The Beilong in Jianzhou faces north and is called Beiyuan". Jiajing's Annals of Jianning Mansion also recorded: "In Qi Long (the year number of the Five Dynasties and Ten Countries), Zhang Tinghui, a villager, learned of his loss because he lived in tea, and was named Beiyuan."
The origin of Shen Kuo's "Meng Qian's pen talks about volume 1": Today, Phoenix Mountain in Jianzhou is called "Beiyuan" by the natives, and it is called "Beiyuan ambassador" by Jiangnan officials after tasting it. The collected works I have read, including Beiyuan and Wen Yuan Ji, know that Beiyuan is a forbidden garden in Jiangnan, but it is not Jian 'an in Jinling. The ambassador of Jiangnan Beiyuan is now the ambassador of the garden. When Li was in Beiyuan, he was good at making tea, which was called "Beiyuan Tea". Now there are "Singles' Ou" on the tea set, which are all named after people, not place names. Ding Wei said to "Beiyuan Tea": "Beiyuan, also named after the name, is now called." Another cloud said, "The gardener is the name of Tian Zi Garden. Why is this called Beiyuan in the east corner of Liejun? " Ding also suspected that Gai didn't know that "Beiyuan Tea" was not a place name. Because of misinformation, it was called "Beiyuan" from the beginning of Gong Jin's book.
5? ? Stone? ? Music thief, natural brass, natural copper or brass made of copper and calamine. Zhong Wei in the Three Kingdoms-Hui's On Grass and Illness Like Grass? ? Golden stone statue. "
6 Longfeng group tea, Beiyuan tea is famous for its "Longfeng group tea". Instead of punching holes in tea cakes as in the Tang Dynasty, they were shaped with models engraved with dragon and phoenix patterns. During the period of Xingguo in Song Taiping (976-983), the main tribute was Longfeng tea. At the beginning of Xianpingchu (998- 1003), Ding Wei made "Dalong Tuan" to pay tribute to the royal family, and its quality was superior to that of Longfeng Tuan Tea. In the Qing Dynasty (104 1- 1048), Cai Xiang founded the "Little Dragon Regiment", which was even more powerful than the "Big Dragon Regiment". From Yuanfeng to Shaosheng (1078- 1097), "Miyun Dragon" and "Ruiyun Xianglong" are valuable.
7 tea baking, tea baking equipment, baking sound times. In ancient times, Han people made tea by hand, also called baking tea. According to the geographical records of the Song Dynasty, there was a Beiyuan baking tea in Jian 'an. Beiyuan Yubei Tea House is also called Peron. Ding Wei always remembered in the Song Dynasty that officials and folk officials in Jiangxi roasted thousands of 336 ears.
8 Beiyuan Tea Record, also known as Jian 'an Tea Record, was written in Song Xianping in the second year (999), but it has not been circulated so far. Every three volumes describe the collection method of tribute tea. In the Southern Song Dynasty, Chao wrote "Reading the Book of Zhai in the County": "According to legend, Xianping was a Fujian Cao, who supervised the country, built a scale, and was exquisite and rigorous. Record the number of baking gardens, draw utensils and collect tribute. "
9. In the early Song Dynasty, in order to centralize financial power, various transshipment ambassadors were placed, in charge of various fiscal taxes and supervision of local officials. All the high-ranking officials are transshipment ambassadors, referred to as Cao for short, and are actually officers at or above the prefecture level.
10 tea, it was popular in Song Dynasty to put tea powder into a tea bowl, inject a small amount of boiling water to make it paste, and then inject boiling water, or directly inject boiling water into a tea bowl and stir it with a tea basket to form porridge noodles, which is different from the method of frying tea in Tang Dynasty.
1 1 is not the first product of Jian 'an. In Tea Tasting Record, Lu Yu's name is called tea, but what he knows is the so-called grass tea today. Where is it? As Hung-chien said, steaming bamboo shoots with leaves is afraid of losing their paste, and covering grass tea has a short and light taste, so it is often afraid of losing its paste; Loucha is thick and sweet, so I just want to remove the cream. And Fujian's is not detailed, it is often obtained and tastes excellent. Judging from this, Hung-chien has never been to Jian 'an Mausoleum. Xuanhe Beiyuan tribute tea record? Gaixi, the mountains and rivers are still green, and the spirit buds are not exposed. As for the last years of the Tang Dynasty, then Beiyuan is the most famous.