I have recently been learning about perfume mixing and making cosmetics, and I plan to develop it into a career. For those who are interested, we can learn about some of the wrong views together. I hope everyone will point it out, I am a humble baby and will change it
1 Three-value theory
Spices: 1. All substances with odor are spices; 2. Odorful substances used to prepare flavors.
Fragrance: a mixture of more than 2 spices.
Perfume: prepared by adding essence and alcohol.
Fragrance
——Imitation fragrance
Sample dip After sniffing on the scent paper, you will smell the top fragrance in half an hour; you will smell the body fragrance in 0.5-4 hours; and you will smell the base fragrance after 4 hours. In each paragraph, you can guess several spices and estimate the dosage. Write them down on paper. After writing them all, start mixing. After dozens of changes to the formula, the aroma is close to the original.
After having the gas chromatography analysis method, first perform chromatography, and compare the data obtained by the "percent normalization method" with the "retention timetable of various spices" or mass spectrum The data guesses what spice each peak may be, and then tries to mix it.
After the sample to be tested is dissolved evenly, chromatography is performed. Compare the chromatogram of the sample and the data table to find the gap, increase or decrease the amount of each spice, until the prepared The sample is close to the model being simulated.
Generally, two methods are used at the same time, and the fragrance imitation efficiency can be improved.
——Creating fragrance
Motivation for creating fragrance:
1. In the process of imitating fragrance Make a discovery and have the desire to create a fragrance;
2. Get new fragrances and try to develop a new fragrance;
3. See some spices and fragrances articles , some words lead to new ideas for fragrance creation;
4. The fragrance creation ideas of users or salesmen bring about a "try it" mentality;
5. The use of aromatherapy Essential oil blend.
The fragrance creation process
Determine the "theme": the aroma of a spice can sometimes be used as a theme, and more usually it is formed by several main fragrance spices A group of relatively unique aromas, with this group of aroma as the theme. After the theme is determined, you can modify it to make the aroma more rounded and pleasant. Finally, adjust the formula to achieve an overall balance of the aroma (mainly the addition and subtraction of the top and base fragrances, so that the prepared fragrance will not be too dull or increase the longevity of the fragrance). ?
Two styles of perfumery
① "Capturing inspiration method" - Conceive slowly, deploy slowly, and often when there is "inspiration" Do some experiments and do less or stop when you don't have "inspiration."
② "Crazy work method" - blend 20 fragrances a day, mix a few fragrances when you have an idea, and finally "shoot" a large number of them, leaving only a few "promising" fragrance groups for evaluation Comment on the fragrance.
"Crazy working method" is currently a popular working method for "creating fragrance". Computer fragrance blending is most suitable for this working method. When some basic conditions (including preparation costs) are met, computer fragrance blending is most suitable for this working method. Many recipes can be whipped up quickly for testing. Without the help of a computer, you may have worked hard to create an "ideal" fragrance, but you have to start over again because of problems such as too high cost, low fragrance intensity, or insufficient fragrance longevity.
Three Value Theory
Significance: Let the ancient art of perfumery move towards the path of science.
People will consider any subject scientific only after it applies mathematics and satisfies some recognized mathematical laws.
Example: Darwin’s “Evolution” and Mendel’s “Genetics”. ?
The three-value theory is the theoretical basis of perfumery and the main basis for the design of computer perfumery software. Therefore, if you want to learn perfumery well, you must first learn the "three-value theory".
Since ancient times, perfumers have basically relied on experience to work. "Mathematics" seems to have nothing to do with perfumers - after mixing a fragrance, calculate the concentration of each spice. The percentage examples in it only use the four arithmetic operations of addition, subtraction, multiplication and division. The mathematics knowledge learned in primary school is enough - it is no different from other arts. People who do not know music notation and do not understand 1234567 can also sing. You can sing beautiful songs and play beautiful tunes, but if you learn the staff and know more about music theory, you will definitely sing better and play more beautifully. In the same way, perfumers who have mastered the "three values" theory of spices and essences will be more confident in every fragrance creation work, and can better prepare fragrances that are satisfying and satisfying to themselves.
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As long as everything in the world becomes a commodity, we will always give it some data to describe its size, quality, performance, etc., but "fragrance" - including spices and Fragrances are the most troublesome and elusive. For a long time, people can only use extremely vague words to describe them: the aroma is "relatively" good, the aroma intensity is "relatively" strong, the fragrance is "relatively" long-lasting, etc. The speaker struggled, and the listener struggled too. In the end, he still couldn't hear any specific content.
Scent ratio
People use the same terminology for smell as for other "feelings", threshold - minimum Smell concentration - is the first word used to evaluate the aroma intensity of spices. Although everyone feels different about each spice, resulting in several different experimental data for a spice, from a statistical point of view, It still makes sense. The smaller the threshold of a spice, the greater its aroma intensity. The reciprocal of the threshold is generally considered to be the "aroma intensity value" of the spice.
It is well known that the aroma intensity of ethyl vanillin is about 3 times stronger than that of vanillin. However, in some data, the threshold value of ethyl vanillin is higher than that of vanillin. high! The threshold value of alpha-turbinone in water is 0.002ppb, and the threshold value of beta-turbinone in water is 1.5-100ppb. There is no way the aroma intensity of the two differs by more than 750 times! The threshold value of methyl salicylate in water is 40, and the threshold value of caryophyllene in water is 64. However, the aroma intensity of the two is generally believed to be more than 10 times different! These examples all illustrate that there is no certain mathematical relationship between aroma intensity and threshold.
If we artificially determine a value for the aroma intensity of a commonly used single spice, and all other single spices are "used" to compare with it (aroma intensity), then The relative aroma intensity values ??of various spice monomers can be obtained. We (in 1995) proposed a set of data that set phenylethyl alcohol at 10 and compared it with other monomeric fragrances, called the "fragrance specific intensity value". This is the first of the "three values" of flavors and fragrances. value".
The fragrance ratio values ??of various commonly used spices and the other two "values" (scent retention value and fragrance value) are listed in "Perfuming Technique" and "Daily Necessities Additives". It is easy to find it in the "Three Value Tables of Commonly Used Spices" in spices and flavor books such as "Fragrance".
The fragrance specific intensity value of the essence can be calculated using the fragrance specific intensity value and formula of the spice. Here is an example of jasmine essence as follows:
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Its aroma intensity value is
(50×25+10×1010×2510×110×2+4×5+1×605× 160)÷100=62.90.
The application of fragrance specific intensity value is very wide. For fragrance manufacturers, the most important point is to intuitively know the fragrance purchased or prepared to purchase." How big is the "aroma intensity"? Because "aroma intensity" is related to the amount of essence, which directly affects the preparation cost. For example, when preparing a shampoo, I originally used a jasmine essence with a fragrance specific strength value of 100 and a dosage of 0.5%. Now I want to use another fragrance with a fragrance specific strength value of 125. Obviously, I only need to add 0.4%. . ?
As we all know, the purpose of adding fragrance is nothing more than to cover up the odor and add fragrance. Many unperfumed semi-finished products and raw materials have odors. To cover up these "odours", the intensity of the aroma must of course be greater. If we can obtain information on the fragrance ratio of these raw materials, we can estimate through calculation how much fragrance must be used to "cover" it. Generally, you have to rely on your own experiments to obtain this information. The simplest method is to add a fragrance with a known fragrance ratio to an unscented semi-finished product to get the minimum amount of fragrance needed to "cover" the "odour", which can be obtained indirectly. The "fragrance ratio" of this semi-finished product can be easily calculated by calculating how much other flavors should be used.
One of the most obvious examples is the fragrance of kerosene (currently the most commonly used solvent for aerosol insecticides). Kerosene that has not been "deodorized" has a stronger fragrance than "With a score of over 100, it is almost impossible to cover up its odor with a small amount of fragrance. Use physical or chemical methods to "deodorize" kerosene to a certain extent. When a fragrance with a fragrance ratio of 400 is added to 0.5%, the "odor" of kerosene can almost no longer be smelled. The value of this "deodorized kerosene" can be calculated. The "fragrance intensity value" is equal to or less than 2.
Some fragrance manufacturers like to use purchased essences to "secondary fragrance" and mix them themselves before using them. It is actually difficult to create high-level fragrances without mastering certain know-how. "work". Here is a very useful experimental technique for everyone: use the golden section method! The specific method is: let the ratio of the "calculated fragrance ratio" of the two flavors equal 0.618:0.382=1.618 or 0.382:0.618=0.618.
Here is an example:
There is a rose fragrance (A) with a fragrance specific strength value of 150, and a sandalwood fragrance (B) with a fragrance specific strength value of 120. For example, press The ratio of A:B=56.4:43.6 (56.4×150:43.6×120=8460:5232=1.617) or A:B=33.1:66.9 (33.1×150:66.9×120=4965:8028=0.618) will be Will get very good results, the former can be called "rose sandalwood essence", the latter can be called "sandalwood rose essence".
The fragrance intensity value is represented by the English letter "B".
Fragrance retention value
How long a spice or essence lasts is a special concern for perfumers and fragrance manufacturers. problem. For perfumers, three major categories of spices must be used to prepare each fragrance: "top fragrance", "body fragrance" and "base fragrance", which means that both long-lasting fragrance and short-lasting fragrance are used. , and the dosage should be scientific so that the prepared essence and aroma can be distributed evenly, balanced and harmonious. For fragrance manufacturers, they hope that the purchased essences added to their products can withstand long-term "tests" such as warehouse storage, transportation, and counter sales, and still have a pleasant fragrance when they reach the hands of users. (such as shampoo, body wash, soap, laundry detergent) even require a certain fragrance to remain on the body or objects after use.
Poucher published the "evaporation schedule" of 330 spices in 1954, and set the coefficient of spices whose fragrance cannot be smelled in less than a day as 1 , the coefficient that cannot be smelled after 100 days and 100 days is set as 100. The "coefficient" of other spices is the number of days its fragrance lasts. We improved this experiment, removed spices that are not commonly used at present, corrected some data, and added spices that are commonly used now, with a total of more than 4,000 kinds. It is called "Fragrance Retention Value", and one column in the "Three Value Table of Commonly Used Spices" is the fragrance retention value data of various spices. Based on these data, the fragrance retention value of the fragrance can be calculated. The calculation method is the same as the algorithm of "fragrance intensity value". Here is an example of jasmine fragrance:
The fragrance retention value of this fragrance is (5×410×19+100×1100×180×5+ 22×1+14×1100×5)÷100=34.52.
This value should be more accurately called the "calculated fragrance retention value" because it is different from the actual fragrance retention time. This is because various spices will react chemically with each other when mixed. The reaction produces a substance that lasts longer. In fact, the actual fragrance retention time of perfume essences is almost more than 100, and the "calculated fragrance retention value" is impossible to reach 100.
The fragrance retention value of spices and the calculation of fragrance retention value of essences are also widely used. When mixing fragrances, perfumers can use the fragrance retention values ??of various spices to predict the calculated fragrance retention value of the essence. If necessary, add or subtract some spices with larger fragrance retention values ??to make the fragrance last as long as desired. within the range. When purchasing fragrance, it is necessary for fragrance manufacturers to first ask the fragrance factory whether the calculated fragrance retention value of the fragrance meets their own fragrance requirements. When "secondary fragrance blending", calculating the fragrance retention value is also very important - if you want the fragrance to last better, just use more fragrances with higher fragrance retention value.
It should be noted that fragrances with too high fragrance retention value often have dull and opaque fragrance, especially some low-end fragrances.
The fragrance retention value is represented by the English letter "L".
Fragrance value
There is no "taste" of spices. For example, indole can be smelled directly. It has a stench like chicken manure, but when diluted to a concentration of less than 1%, it has an aroma like jasmine! In fact, most spices have a bad aroma when sniffed directly, and they may not always become better after dilution. The aroma of various spices plays its role when it is blended into essence. Improper use will not only fail to play its role, but sometimes it will destroy the overall aroma! Therefore, if we want to give each spice a "grade value", we can only examine its "performance" within an aroma range. For example, benzyl acetate is generally used to prepare jasmine essence. We just look at whether it resembles the fragrance itself. If the scent of jasmine is very similar, the "score" will be higher. If it is not very similar, the "score" will be lower. The concept of "fragrance value" was created based on this idea.
The fragrance values ??of various spices are also listed in the "Three Value Table of Commonly Used Spices". It should be pointed out that the "fragrance value" in the table refers to the "grade" of the spice when its "main aroma" (that is, the aroma with the largest value of various spices in the "Smell ABC Table") is used when blending flavors. "Value", if you use its "secondary aroma" when blending fragrance, you have to give it another "fragrance value" based on the fragrance of the spice.
For example, when benzyl acetate is used to prepare jasmine essence, the fragrance value is 80, but when used to prepare fruity essence (benzyl acetate has a fruity aroma), the "fragrance value" can only be calculated as 10-30.
The "fragrance value" of a fragrance can be calculated based on the fragrance value and dosage ratio of each spice in the formula. The calculation method is the same as the fragrance ratio and fragrance retention value. The calculated fragrance value is called "calculated fragrance value", which is definitely different from the "actual fragrance value" (the fragrance is rated by everyone and averaged). When blending a fragrance, if its actual fragrance value is less than the calculated fragrance value, the fragrance blending can be considered a failure; the more the actual fragrance value exceeds the calculated fragrance value, the more successful the fragrance blending will be.
The so-called "flavoring" means "greatly improving the fragrance value of spices."
When fragrance manufacturers purchase fragrances from fragrance manufacturers, they can ask the latter to provide the calculated fragrance value of the fragrance, and then organize a temporary "scent evaluation team" to provide this fragrance Fragrance scoring is the so-called "actual fragrance value" (the highest score is 100, the lowest score is 0). If the actual fragrance value exceeds the calculated fragrance value by a lot, the fragrance should be more in line with your requirements.
The fragrance value is represented by the English letter "P".
Comprehensive evaluation of the practical value of spices and flavors
Each of the three values ????of spices and flavors mentioned earlier is "value" They only reflect one aspect of a spice or essence. Putting the three values ??together can reflect the overall outline of the spice or essence. For example, the fragrance intensity value of a rose essence is 150, the calculated fragrance retention value is 60, and the calculated fragrance value is 50. We think this fragrance is "not bad", the fragrance intensity is not small, the fragrance retention is good, the fragrance is okay, but the It’s not easy to remember three pieces of data at the same time. Multiply the three data
B×L×P=150×60×50=450000
This number is too big, divide it by 1000
B×L×P/1000=150×60×50/100=450
We define
B×L×P/1000=Z < /p>
Z is the "comprehensive evaluation score" of spices and essences, referred to as "comprehensive score". For example, the comprehensive score of the above rose essence is 450, which is based on its fragrance ratio. , calculate the fragrance value, calculate the fragrance value, if its actual fragrance value is not 50, but 60, then its comprehensive score should be
150×60×60/1000=540
The sales price of this essence (according to the current market price) is 540 yuan/kg, which is relatively moderate. If it is higher than 540 yuan/kg, it is too expensive. , if it’s less than 540 yuan/kg, it’s cheap.
The "Three Value Table of Commonly Used Spices" has listed the "comprehensive score" calculated by three values ??for various commonly used spices. Perfumers can evaluate various spices based on the data in this table. For comparison and selection, you can measure the three values ??of new spices by yourself, calculate their comprehensive scores and fill them in.
2 Odor ABC
Check the table:
Aroma of diethyl acetal: 60% Fruity aroma, 10% green aroma, 30% narcotic aroma;
Bornyl acetate aroma: 10% cool aroma, 40% herbal aroma, 50% cypress aroma;
Aroma of isobornyl acetate: 2% cool aroma, 30% herbal aroma, 65% cypress aroma, 3% soil aroma. ?
The "odor ABC" of fragrance can be calculated.
For example, there is a fragrance - "Oriental Fragrance". The fragrance is calculated
?A2H1M5Q20R10S2U2V2W52X4
It means that its fragrance is composed of 2% fatty aroma, 1% herbal aroma, 5% lily of the valley floral aroma, 20% ointment, 10% rose aroma, 2% spicy, 2% vanilla, 52% woody and 4% musk of.
3 Chaos mathematics, fractals and perfumery
Chaos
Chaos is the general term for the random behavior exhibited by deterministic systems. Its roots lie in nonlinear interactions. The so-called "deterministic system" means that the mathematical model describing the system is a completely deterministic equation that does not contain any random factors. ?
The most common form of motion in nature is often neither completely deterministic nor completely random. This is chaos.
Fractal structure
(1) Infinitely fine structure;
(2) Proportional self-similarity;
(3) Generally, its fractal dimension is its topological dimension;
(4) It can be defined by a very simple method and generated by recursion, iteration, etc. ?
The snowflakes, clouds and smoke we see every day all have fractal structures. We can easily imagine that "a mass of aroma" should also have a fractal structure.
Strange attractor
"Strange attractor" is a stable attractor with fractal structure.
Artists use the "strange attractor" theory and the "fractal structure" theory to explain their work: musicians regard a beautiful melody as a "strange attractor" and can compose an infinite number of music ; The painter regards a beautiful object shape (such as the human body, flowers) as a "strange attractor" - it can also create infinite works of art.
What musicians strive for is to "find" a melody that has not been "discovered" by predecessors; what perfumers try their best to "find" is "the most pleasant aroma", which is the former There are “strange attractors” that humans have not “discovered” yet.
Fractal dimension
Also known as fractal dimension or fractal dimension, it is usually represented by fractions or numbers with decimal points. For a long time, people have been accustomed to defining points as zero dimensions, straight lines as one dimension, planes as two dimensions, and space as three dimensions.
Einstein introduced the time dimension in the theory of relativity, forming a four-dimensional space-time. By considering many aspects of a certain problem, a high-dimensional space can be established, but all are integer dimensions.
In mathematics, the geometric object of the Euclidean space is continuously stretched, compressed, and twisted without changing the dimension. This is the topological dimension.
Mathematician Hausdoff proposed the concept of continuous space in 1919, that is, the dimension of space can change continuously. It can be an integer or a fraction, which is called Hausdoff. Dof dimension, denoted as Df.
Obviously, Df is a fraction in general. ?
The fractal dimension formula of aroma:
D=(ln?K)?/?(lnL)
Where: D——the dimension of the fractal Number
K——The sum of the contribution values ??of all spices to the theme aroma
L——The number of spices
In usual cases, the fractal dimension The closer it is to 1, the more prominent the theme aroma of the fragrance is.
The actual formula of a jasmine essence is as follows:
Benzyl acetate 50
Methylhexylcinnamaldehyde 40
Jasmine absolute 10
Check the "ABC Chart of Fragrance Odors", benzyl acetate has 70% of the jasmine aroma, methylhexylcinnamaldehyde has 80% of the jasmine aroma, and jasmine absolute has 60% of the jasmine aroma. They are very important to The average aroma contribution rate of the prepared jasmine essence is
0.50×0.70.40×0.80.10×0.60=0.73
K=3×0.73=2.19
< p> Therefore, the fractal dimension of this jasmine essence theme aromaD02=(ln2.19)/(ln3)≈0.7135