1, Yan skirt
On the basis of inheriting the costume tradition of the Central Plains, the female shroud in the Tang Dynasty was developed by absorbing foreign cultures such as the Western Regions. Regardless of grade, it generally consists of a basket (or shirt), a skirt and a skirt. The bottom of the basket above is tied in the waist of the skirt, and there are thread shoes and brocade shoes. Skirts appeared in the Western Jin Dynasty. For example, there is a poem in Ge Yanxing by Fu Xuan in the Western Jin Dynasty that "the essence is the skirt and the moon is the top". Skirts are mainly matching clothing styles, short skirts or silk half-length skirts. This kind of clothing was introduced to Gaochang area in the Western Regions in the Tang Dynasty, and became the fashionable clothing of local women. At that time, in order to show their graceful figure, most women in the western regions liked to wear colorful short sleeves and close-fitting long skirts. 1973 A female dance figurine unearthed from No.206 tomb in Astana, Turpan, shows that in the early Tang Dynasty, women wore green narrow sleeves and short sleeves, and the outside of the raft was a tight-fitting half-arm skirt, with a long red and yellow skirt sweeping the floor.
2. hey
Yan is a common coat in ancient China. Book of rites? 6? 1 internal rules: "Boys will go abroad at the age of ten, live abroad, learn books and tricks, and get dressed." Xu Shen's Shuo Wen? 6? 1 Clothing Department: "Hey, short clothes also". Generally, men and women can wear it. After the Eastern Han Dynasty, it became a kind of dress for women. It has different lengths, the long one can reach below the knee and the short one can reach waist. Women in the Han Dynasty generally wore long sleeves with large sleeves, just as Xin Yannian said in his poem, "Long skirts with leading belts and wide sleeves with acacia". In the Northern and Southern Dynasties and the Tang Dynasty, due to the influence of nomadic culture in the north, short girls with narrow sleeves were very popular in the Central Plains. Because this short woman with narrow sleeves and tight body is not only conducive to doing things, but also shows a woman's figure, she is loved by young women. A female dance figurine unearthed from No.206 tomb in Astana, wearing a double-breasted skirt, with an open skirt and no tie, and the hem part tied at the waist.
3. Half arm
Half-arm is a very common new dress in women's wear in Tang Dynasty. It's a short-sleeved double-breasted coat without a tie. Just use the belt on the skirt to tie it to the chest, and when wearing it, the bottom is hidden in or around the skirt waist. The female dancing figurines unearthed from No.206 tomb in Astana are wearing tight-fitting half-arms, with a V-shaped collar and double-breasted sleeves, which are only half of a human arm. Half-arms can be seen in cave murals in Qizil and other places in Xinjiang. The temperature difference between day and night in the western region is large, and the half-arm coat is very suitable for the local climate change. Half-arms are usually made of fine brocade. New Tang book? 6? 1 Geography once recorded that there was a kind of "half arm" in Yangzhou's tribute at that time. The material and pattern of the half arm are exquisite. The poet Li He's "Song of Children in Tang Dynasty" contains the phrase "Silver Luan lightly treads on a half arm", which may be used to describe a half arm woven with silver thread. Although the female dance figurines unearthed from No.206 tomb in Astana are not woven with silver thread, their fabrics are very precious and dazzling. Julian pattern is usually considered as the decorative pattern of Persian Sassanian dynasty. Many Julian brocade patterns have been unearthed from the tomb of Astana in Turpan. Its organizational structure includes both plain warp brocade with flowers in the warp and twill weft brocade with flowers in the weft, and the patterns are also very rich, such as Julian brocade with duck pattern, chicken pattern, lion pattern, deer pattern, bear pattern and peacock pattern. The beaded half-arm skirt worn by this female dancing figurine has two beaded rings on both sides of the chest, which highlights the beauty and theme of decorative patterns and reveals the traces of cultural exchanges between the East and the West.