incision
Cuttings can be carried out from June 1 1 every year to June 1 the following year, with the highest survival rate and the best growth and development in June 65438+February. Generally, Rosa davurica or Ten Sisters are used as rootstocks to graft Chinese rose. "The middle part of the robust branches born that year was completely lignified and covered with axillary buds, which were used as scions. Don't use branches that are too old, too tender or have weak axillary buds. The steps of cutting are: firstly, peel off the thorns on the branches, being careful not to peel off the axillary buds, and then cut off the scion with a sharp knife. Generally, each scion leaves 1-2 strong buds. Buds remain on both sides of the leaf. First, the front of the blade is obliquely cut, and the length of the blade is 2-3 mm longer than that of the anvil. Then diagonally cut the blade on the back, the blade is about 3 mm, insert the cut scion into the cut rootstock cortex, and align with the cambium. The cutting edge of the scion should exceed the cutting edge of the rootstock by 2-3 mm, so that the two can be firmly combined. Then use a plastic belt with a width of 1 cm to bind the assembled cut seedlings from top to bottom, with even force, and do not shake the scion. Grafted seedlings are potted with high mud, and the bottom of the pot is covered with a layer of coarse soil, and then the cutting soil is filled as pot soil. When planting, carefully put the grafted seedlings into the pot, cover the root of the rootstock with fine soil, compact it, never shake the scion, and then gently cover the scion with fine soil to expose a terminal bud. Cover the washbasin with newspaper, put it in a wooden footbath, make a skeleton with thick iron wire, cover it with transparent plastic film, and tie it tightly with rope to seal it, thus establishing a "small hotbed" of the family. Move the "small hotbed" outdoors to bask in the sun during the day and indoors at night. Check in a week. If the buds begin to sprout, empty the plastic film for air every day at noon when the temperature is high. No watering is allowed within one week of grafting. If the surface of the basin soil is dry, just pour 1-2 cm of water at the basin bottom and suck it away through the drainage holes at the basin bottom. After 2-3 weeks of grafting, the scion and rootstock have healed, the rootstock begins to take root, and the scion sprouts and grows leaves, but the leaves of the rootstock often grow faster than the buds of the scion, so it should be pulled out in time. Be especially careful when removing rootstocks and buds, and don't touch the scion. After removing the roots and buds, the pot soil has been dug loose and should be watered with a watering can. When the new shoots grow to 3.5 cm long, you can take off the newspaper. When the blades are unfolded in March, the plastic film can be removed and placed in the open air for maintenance. In April, leaves can be transplanted into potted plants. At this time, buds should be picked to promote plant growth.
bud grafting
The season of bud grafting is very long, from May to 10, which can be carried out almost throughout the growing period, and the winter dormancy period can also be carried out indoors. Bud grafting takes effect quickly, and it can bloom in 6 weeks at the earliest. But often because of the high grafting position, the life span is not long. Bud grafting can be divided into T-shaped bud grafting and cut bud grafting. Generally, T-bud grafting is suitable for the cortex that is easy to peel off during the growing period. If the rootstock is too old to peel off the cortex during dormancy, bud grafting is suitable.
T-bud grafting: T-bud grafting should also cultivate rootstocks. When the rootstocks are as thick as pencil poles, they can be budded. Fertilize once 3 days before bud grafting, and water adequately half a day before bud grafting. The method is: choose a smooth and knotless side about 3 cm away from the soil, first cut it horizontally, then cut it vertically into a T-shape, about 2 cm long, reaching the xylem, and then gently pry open the cortex. Scion should choose long flower branches with full buds, cut off the top and base, leave the middle part, cut off the leaves and thorns, and keep the petiole. Cut upward from the lower part of the bud, about 3-4 cm long, cut off the bud and take out the wood block. Hold the petiole of the bud with your left hand and slowly insert it into the T-shaped cortex of the rootstock. The bud should be inserted in the middle again so that it can be inserted smoothly. Tie it with a plastic tape 0.5 cm wide, leaving petioles and buds.
After bud grafting, move the flowerpot to the shade or cover the bud grafting with newspaper to avoid direct sunlight. Don't get wet in the rain for three days After a week's inspection, if the bud is green and the petiole is yellow, it will come off when touched, indicating that it has survived; If the petiole is dry and the bud is black, it means dead. After survival, you can bask in the sun, and the roots and buds should be peeled off constantly. The old leaves on the rootstock should be kept, which can provide nutrients for the tender buds of Chinese rose. When the new shoots grow to 15-20cm, columns should be erected to prevent the seedlings from being blown off by the wind, and the rootstock can be shortened appropriately. When all the new shoots are lignified and germinate for the second time, all the rootstocks can be cut off and the bondage of the plastic belt can be lifted.
Cuttage budding
Rootstock preparation, scion selection and maintenance management are the same as those of T-bud grafting. The method is: select the flat side of the rootstock base, cut a knife from top to bottom, the depth is just to the xylem or slightly xylem, the length is 2-3 cm, and then cut a knife obliquely below the bud to form an inclined plane. Then insert the bud into the 0.5 cm cortex of the rootstock, and the leaves above the bud match the leaves of the rootstock. Finally, use plastic tape to bind evenly from top to bottom. The operation method of cutting bud grafting is easier than T-bud grafting, and the survival rate is not bad.