Guiyang, the “City of Landscapes”, contains so much fascinating urban atmosphere?

Guiyang has the hedonistic spirit common in southwestern cities, and there is always a lively atmosphere floating in the streets. It's hard for anyone who comes here not to be inspired by it. The noise of pedestrians and vendors on the streets seems to loudly declare that this is a city that belongs to the market.

It is completely opposite to the fragrant aroma of life in the city. If you drive outside the city, no matter which direction you go, you can always see great scenery within half an hour. The organic unity of landscape and fireworks makes people stupefied and unsure of the pulse of the city.

Guiyang is indeed such a magical city with mountains and rivers.

1. Guiyang, anger is coming

Guiyang people can eat, drink and have fun 24 hours a day, but there are still traffic jams at two or three in the morning. When the supper ends, the breakfast shop also opens.

The painter Dong Zhong wrote in a blog: "This is my city, Guiyang. It is rainy, cool in summer, and wet in winter. People living here are geniuses in eating chili peppers and good at drinking. , Dare to eat anything. This city is small and noisy, and all kinds of idle people often gather together for no reason, of course, for drinking and having fun.”

Guiyang people love to spend money and are fashionable. It is a kind of consciousness. This feeling is not unfounded. According to information released by the National Bureau of Statistics, in 2017, the per capita disposable income of urban residents in Guiyang was 32,186 yuan, breaking the 30,000 mark for the first time. Although the growth rate is higher than the national level, the amount is still nearly 12% lower than the national average for urban residents. In the same year, the per capita consumption expenditure of urban residents in Guiyang reached 26,063 yuan, 1,618 yuan more than the national average.

I have heard many explanations for the consumer psychology of Guiyang people. Writer Dai Mingxian speculated that this was the impact of the large influx of "Xiajiang people" during the Anti-Japanese War - "Xiajiang people" were refugees who fled during the Anti-Japanese War The collective name for people from the mainland, because there are a large number of refugees from Jiangsu and Zhejiang, and the Shanghai-style lifestyle they brought has a profound impact on Guiyang and Guizhou.

Some people say that this is because Guiyang has a concentration of wealthy families who rely on resources to make fortunes in the province, which can be compared to Taiyuan, thus raising the average consumption level. Others believe that this is the influence of ethnic minority culture on Guiyang. People value the pleasure of the moment more than accumulating wealth. Others directly attribute it to vanity and vulgar ideas.

The number of restaurants and snack shops and mobile vendors on the streets of Guiyang ranks among the top among Chinese cities. The best place to feel the atmosphere of Guiyang is probably the Changwang Noodle House in the early morning. People take a bowl of spicy noodle soup sprinkled with red oil and have a good smell from the window. They help themselves to fill a plate with the hot and sour pickles specially made by each restaurant, and move around. They squeezed out of their seats and sat down next to each other. After Hulu finished eating, they went their separate ways.

Like the diners in the breakfast shop, Guiyang’s mountains, rivers, buildings and streets are also crowded. The vitality of Guiyang also lies in the stories in the mountains.

2. Every mountain here has a story

Standing on the top of Qianling Mountain and looking south, you can see more than half of Guiyang city. The pavilion on the top of the mountain is called "Ganzhu Pavilion". "Zhu" is the ancient name of Guiyang. There are many speculations about the reason. Most of the explanations are that it is the same as "bamboo", pronounced twice; Guiyang also has the nickname "Lincheng". In short, here It was once a place of lush forests and bamboo cultivation. What is visible in the current field of vision is a dense collection of dilapidated and new buildings. The city replaces the jungle, growing upward and in all directions until it hits a wall in front of another mountain.

The main urban area of ??Guiyang is located between three longitudinal mountain systems: Baihua Mountain, Qianling Mountain, and Nanyue Mountain. They are two irregular-shaped dams, interlocked by mountains and cut by intricate water systems.

The Yunyan District and Nanming District overlooked by Qianling Mountain are the two earliest urban districts in Guiyang. Yunyan's name comes from the mountain, and Nanming comes from the river, which has its own poetic meaning. The Nanming River flows from south to northeast and covers most of Guiyang's urban area. Hills are common in the city, and they are inserted abruptly between the buildings, creating a visually surprising effect, as if they are uninvited guests who arrived later, taking advantage of every opportunity to occupy a place in the city. The karst topography makes Guiyang closely intertwined with mountains and rivers, which is rare among provincial capital cities in China. It is like a bonsai held by the gods in the palm of their hands.

As the provincial capital, Guiyang is a small city with a small population. But the population density in the central urban area of ??Guiyang is actually very high. The 2014 Guiyang City “Layout Plan for Removing Old Cities and Building New Cities” mentioned that the population density within Guiyang’s first ring road (including the core areas of Yunyan and Nanming districts) is nearly 50,000 people per square kilometer. In the same year, Kwun Tong, the most densely populated area in Hong Kong, had 57,000 people per square kilometer. It is said that Guiyang was once called "Little Hong Kong". In this regard, it is quite similar.

In this way you can understand why Qianling Mountain, which is close to the northern edge of the First Ring Road, is loved by the citizens of Guiyang. It is like the Taiping Mountain on the edge of the Central Ring Road in Hong Kong. They are all in close contact with the city. Even if people want to plan it , repair it, build it, they still stubbornly remain there, together with trees, grass, flowers and birds, eventually becoming people's reliance.

Since the 1990s, China’s drastic urban construction has made huge changes to the local context and texture of life. Liu Zhaofeng, chief engineer of the Guizhou Provincial Architectural Planning Institute, said: “Guiyang is defined by its mountains and rivers. Unlike many cities on the plains that are defined by streets and lanes, the city dies when the streets and lanes disappear. As long as the landscape skeleton remains, Guiyang can rely on it to achieve urban revitalization.

Guiyang is not only surrounded by mountains, there are also many hills scattered or gathered in the urban area. “Each mountain has a story.”

Forest Park in the southeast , established in 1960 under the instructions of Zhou Enlai, has the historic site "Tuyun Pass" in the park. It was built in the Song Dynasty and was one of the 14 ancient passes surrounding Guiyang. It was also the "most important passage from Hunan to Guiyang." (1939-1946) The General Rescue Corps Headquarters of the Red Cross Society of China, the Wartime Health Personnel Training Institute of the Ministry of Military and Political Affairs, the 167th Army Rear Area Hospital, and the 27th U.S. Army Field Hospital all moved to Tuyunguan, with more than 3,000 staff and medical staff personnel, and treated millions of sick and wounded."

In 1508, Wang Yangming was exiled to Longchang, which is now under Xiuwen County, Guiyang City, and served as a postmaster. He then "enlightened the Tao in Longchang" and proposed "the combination of knowledge and action". This is the closest that Guiyang has come to traditional Chinese orthodoxy. The Yangming Temple was built at the southern foot of Fufeng Mountain in Guiyang City during the Jiaqing period of the Qing Dynasty, and the Daozhen Temple was built during the Republic of China to commemorate Yin Zhen, a scholar of the Eastern Han Dynasty. During the Qianlong period, the Fufeng Temple was integrated into one.

3. Fragments of Guiyang’s history

There are many stories in Guiyang, but there are few detailed records.

Guizhou is a province with a rich distribution of ancient human sites. Among the sites that have been discovered so far, the most are from the Paleolithic Age. The northern and western parts of Guizhou and the central part of Guiyang are the most densely populated. They are usually distributed along rivers. The number of sites decreased in the Neolithic Age and in the Shang Dynasty. Zhou became sporadic. Some scholars speculate that Guizhou was warm in ancient times and had many vegetation and animals, which made it easy to collect and hunt. The karst terrain also provided convenience for cave dwellings. When human production methods transitioned to agriculture, these convenient conditions became disadvantages.

The "牂牁大surname" during the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties was the combination of the Sanshu surnames who moved in during the Han Dynasty, the generals of the Han Dynasty and the local chiefs. A more specific example is the sixth generation descendant of Gu Cheng, who used violence to pacify the Miao territory. Because Gu Liangxiang could not bear to lead the Ming army into the southeast of Guizhou and massacre innocent people, he fled into the Miao territory. He changed his Miao name to "Bundi" and took the name of his Miao daughter Wen. It has been passed down to this day in the way of father and son.

< p>In 1282, the construction of "Shunyuan City" in the Yuan Dynasty marked the beginning of Guiyang's city construction. Shunyuan City had an earth wall with an area of ??only one square kilometer, equivalent to a checkpoint.

Guiyang truly developed as a city. It was still in the Ming Dynasty.

Previously, most of the descriptions of Guiyang were found in literature, and there were very few real objects. A large amount of physical evidence was still left after the Ming and Qing Dynasties. In the early Ming Dynasty, the Ming army needed to pass through Guizhou to conquer Yunnan. Along the Yi Road, troops were stationed and a large number of immigrants were stationed along the way. Due to its central location, Guiyang became the hub of the Yi Road and formed the prototype of the current Guiyang City. Since then, Guiyang and Guizhou have truly been integrated into the mainstream of Chinese history.

Ming Dynasty. The relative geographical location and scope of Guiyang's central city have hardly changed since the Qing Dynasty. The old Guiyang city has nine gates and four pavilions, which were built in the Ming Dynasty. is the coordinate.

Guiyang once had the ancient name "Heiyangqing", which is said to come from the Yi language. In the poetry of the Miao people near Guiyang and Huaxi, "Gelogesang" is a recurring word. "Gelo" refers to Huaxi, "Gelsang" refers to Guiyang, and "Gelogesang" is the Miao people's term for the Guiyang area. name.

Guizhou is the place where the Baiyue, Baipu, Miao Yao and Di Qiang ancestors merged and differentiated. However, if we look for the traces they left in Guiyang, the sporadic evidence obtained is very vague. Before the Yuan Dynasty until Yelang and Zanggao, a large section of Guiyang's local history was left blank, making it impossible to connect a continuous picture.

It was not until the middle of the Qing Dynasty that the Han population in Guiyang exceeded the ethnic minority population, and Guiyang gradually became a city in which Han people dominate. Like all human history, this process involves both spontaneous flow and civilized and martial arts. There were two iron pillars erected in front of the famous Jiaxiu Tower in Guiyang. They were cast by Ertai, the governor of Yunnan and Guizhou during the Yongzheng period of the Qing Dynasty to pacify the Miao uprising, and Lebao, the governor of Yunnan and Guizhou to quell the Buyi uprising during the Jiaqing period.

4. "Unified" immigrants

In the past century, the major changes that have had the most profound impact on Guiyang are all related to population migration: first, the people who fled the war during the Anti-Japanese War; second, The first is the population that moved in for industrial construction after the founding of the People's Republic of China; the third is the number of companies that moved in during the "third-line construction" period.

According to the first national census in 1953, the population of Yunyan and Nanming districts was only 270,000, which was 10% of Beijing and 4% of Shanghai during the same period. From 1953 to 1960, the number of immigrants reached 250,000, and in 1958 alone, 180,000 people moved in during the large-scale recruitment period. From 1964 to 1978, the net in-migration population during the "Third Front Construction" also reached more than 200,000. By 1982, the population of Guiyang city had increased to 1.32 million (the total number of Yunyan and Nanming districts was 790,000).

After 2010, Guiyang once attracted public attention with several super-large buildings-urban complexes. Among them, Huaguoyuan, the largest, has a population of more than 500,000, according to the Guiyang Evening News. The average passenger flow is 1 million, and the average daily traffic flow is 310,000 vehicles. Passing by, skyscrapers like pigeon cages are connected into a film, and wandering through them is like experiencing an AR version of a science fiction movie. The throughput of Huaguoyuan alone can be compared with several large-scale immigrations after the founding of New China.

The vitality of Guiyang’s economy has benefited from the policy inclinations of the central and local governments. There are blueprints and achievements of ecological civilization and big data everywhere.

Jing Yaping, deputy director of the Guizhou Provincial Big Data Center Administration Bureau, said in a public speech in 2017: The return index of college students in Guizhou Province ranks seventh in the country, and 217% more college students return to the province to start a business than those who leave the province; Guiyang is one of the youngest cities in the country after Shenzhen; in 2017, Guizhou's GDP grew by 10.2%, ranking among the top three in the country for seven consecutive years. A province once known for its poverty now appears to be on the verge of turning a corner.

History always has echoes.

The construction of highways and railways compared with the laying of post roads in those years; urbanization absorbing a large number of people compared with the immigration waves in history; when Foxconn hollowed out three mountains and built a data center in Gui'an New District When in the cave, one can't help but think of the military factories that were moved to the mountainous areas of Guiyang during the "Third Front Construction" - when industrial civilization turned to the Internet, Guiyang's natural geographical environment once again took advantage of it, as if it was an echo of the Paleolithic Age. .

One characteristic of people from one place is oversimplified description, which is close to prejudice and not far from fallacy. But the environment's shaping of people is obvious, and it will be hidden in your body and become apparent as you age. Dai Mingxian said that the people of Guiyang--it can be said that all people of Guizhou--have the character of mountain people: they do not show off, so their good mountains, rivers and good talents are not known to the outside world; they are upright and stubborn, which is called "Gu" in the dialect. When this When the noun for classifying cattle is used as an adjective, its meaning changes subtly, including rich and vivid images.

Today’s Guiyang people, going back one or two generations, can be called immigrants. But if you take the time axis longer, which city is not made up of immigrants? Those people who have continued to move to Guiyang from tens of thousands of years ago to the present have finally been unified by sour soup, chili pepper and good wine, their appearance has been transformed by the low-key and humid climate, and their personalities have been shaped by the mountains and rivers surrounding them.

If the founding of the city in the Ming Dynasty is the beginning of modern Guiyang, then this "Kun" and "boney" city is ushering in major changes in the past 600 years.

This article is taken from "Authentic Scenery·Guizhou". The original text has been added, subtracted and changed.