Taking a boat trip on the Yellow River is an ordinary thing, but taking a boat trip on the Yellow River in Yantan, Zhengzhou is extraordinary. It can even be said to be a bit strange. The reason for the strangeness is the boat on which you are rafting. Ancient and simple, earthy and rustic. The "boat" mentioned here actually refers to the raft. It is like a small "boat" floating in the Yellow River, very light. An empty raft can be moved around with your fingers. The heavy raft, carrying six or seven people, could leave the shore and hit the road with just a tap of the paddle board.
Sheepskin rafts, commonly known as "paizi", are an ancient water transport tool used for both passengers and cargo. It is made of a dozen bulging goatskin "huntuo" tied side by side on a thin wooden frame. The boatmen who drive the rafts are commonly known as "paizi craftsmen". They are not only experts in rafting, but also skilled craftsmen in making and repairing rafts. The so-called "Huntuo" refers to the sheepskin that has been taken off in one piece. "Paizi craftsmen" cut off the heads and hooves of goats with thick skins, then take off the sheepskin completely, and go through a series of processing processes such as soaking in water, exposing to the sun, peeling, pouring salt and sesame oil, etc., and then make fourteen or five The swollen "huntuo" is tied to a wooden frame with thick warp and thin weft, criss-crossing it - the "paizi" is done! This kind of "paizi" is called a small raft.
Sheepskin raft is an ancient water vehicle, commonly known as "paizi". It is made of several (usually 14) inflatable sheepskin tubes tied side by side on criss-crossing wooden poles. The rafts can be large or small. Large rafts used to transport goods over long distances use dozens or hundreds of sheepskin tubes, and some are made up of several or a dozen small rafts connected together. The sheepskin raft is not only simple to make, flexible to maneuver, and light to carry, but also has a waterline of only a dozen centimeters, so it is not afraid of running aground and can be docked at any time. Its biggest advantage is that it is not afraid of collisions on rocks and has excellent safety performance. The sheepskin rafts used for tourism not only make full use of all the advantages of folk rafts, but also specially produce a 4-meter-square raft according to needs, which is more stable and flatter, and makes it easier for tourists to move on it.
The starting point of the Yellow River Tour is Shapotou. A day trip to the Shikong Yellow River Bridge in Zhongning County. The Shikong Temple Grottoes are nearby. The two-day tour landed at the Qingtongxia Reservoir tourist area.
The Yellow River tour has unique vehicles and unique scenery. Along the way, you can hear the sound of water and mountains, and the diverse landscapes are dizzying for your eyes. The legendary scenery such as the Great Wall of the Ming Dynasty, ancient waterwheels, isolated islands in the middle of the river, and water oasis are an eye-opener for tourists. The picturesque pastoral scenery of "Fortress Jiangnan" and the simplicity and diligence of local people in farmland farming have left a good impression on tourists. During the tour, you can pick up the raft and go ashore at any time, take a rest by the river or on the beach, or pick colorful Yellow River pebbles on the river beach, or pick mountain flowers and wild grass, or have a delicious picnic... Sheepskin raft: a tool used for ferry boats
Sheepskin rafts, also called Yellow River sheepskin rafts, are only popular along the Yellow River in Qinghai, Gansu and Ningxia, with the largest number in Lanzhou, and have been passed down for thousands of years.
The sheepskin raft, commonly known as "paizi", is an ancient water transport tool. It is made of more than a dozen bulging goat skins "huntuo" (the sheep skins taken off in one piece are made through a series of processing processes such as soaking in water, exposing to the sun, peeling, tying, and filling with salt and sesame oil), and are tied side by side on the Made on a thin wooden frame.
The Yellow River originates from the Bayan Har Mountains on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, flows eastward, and flows into the Bohai Sea. It passes through Gansu, Ningxia, Inner Mongolia and other provinces, passing through mountains and rivers, splitting gorges and cutting rocks, with a mighty 5500 km, is the second largest river in China and the mother river of the Chinese nation.
Taking a sheepskin raft to float on the Yellow River, you can appreciate the beauty of the gorges and mountains, and appreciate the style of Jiangnan and the desert grasslands. This kind of trip is not only very novel and thrilling, but it is also an experience that you will probably never forget in your life. .
1. Gansu
The Yellow River has the most dense canyons in Gansu. The journey of more than 200 kilometers out of the ancient city of Lanzhou actually has to pass through six canyons: Sangyuan Gorge, Da Gorge, Wujin Gorge, Hongshan Gorge, Mijia Gorge and Heishan Gorge. We start our rafting trip from Gansu.
Sangyuanzi Gorge is the first canyon after leaving Lanzhou. It is located at the junction of Lanzhou City, Yuzhong County and Gaolan County. Starting from Shajinping at the eastern end of Lanzhou Basin in the west to Shichuan in Gaolan County in the east, it is 27 kilometers long, 120-140 meters wide, and has a drop of 22 meters. The canyon is named after Sangyuanzi Village, and is also known as Shangxia and Xiaoxia. There are cliffs on both sides, and the gloomy sky turns into a gray line. When the sheepskin raft crossed the Lanzhou Yellow River Iron Bridge to reach this place, the river suddenly narrowed, the water surface was turbulent, the waves were large, the bay was rapid and there were many whirlpools. Only rafters who could be called "Xiakezi" dared to launch their rafts here. We were all so frightened that we looked at dangerous sections such as Camel Rock, Xiangshuizi, and Retanggou. We sat in a raft that was lifted, lowered, lifted, and lowered like leaves by the big waves. We all instinctively held on to the raft. On the wooden pole, keep your eyes wide open and keep looking around, lest you accidentally miss one or two reefs, and you will regret it forever. In such a highly tense atmosphere, the so-called Camel Stone and Xiangshuizi passed by unknowingly, and the thunderous sound of water from the front told us that Regou Tang had arrived. I saw that the undulation between the bottom and the top of the wave was about 2 meters, and the waves splashed after rushing to the cliff were more than 3 meters. Everyone was swimming, shouting slogans loudly, trying hard to adjust the direction, and find a safe place to float. Only then did the Yellow River, which is usually quiet and gentle, let us experience its boldness and power.
I don’t know how long I have been drifting in this canyon, but I finally drifted out of this frightening section of the river and arrived at the Shichuan Basin, known as the "Pear Township". The greenery here is full of pear trees that are more than a century old. The tree shape is very weird and unique, and the green leaves are shining with little lights, which are the fruits that are gradually maturing.
Later, the raft entered the "Grand Canyon", which was much quieter than Sangyuan Gorge. The Grand Canyon is 21 kilometers long, with steep cliffs on both sides, more than 150 meters above the water surface, and a drop of 24 meters. This place was originally a danger within the Yellow River. Because of the construction of the Grand Canyon Hydropower Plant, the water level rose and the river course became much gentler. However, this It is impossible to distinguish between "steaming pot", "boiling pot" and "wolf tongue". That night, we stayed at the Grand Canyon Power Plant.
Early the next morning, we set off from Jingyuan and entered the Santan area. Farmland and houses appeared on both sides of the river, and more steel ropes were used to cross the river. These steel ropes stretched from both sides to the center of the river. Many of them were almost close to the water, and there were many adventures due to the failure to discover these "hidden dangers". Fortunately, the experienced raft workers decisively ordered everyone to lie down, brush the ground, and the rafts flew by.
After several dangerous situations, everyone was very nervous and the sky gradually darkened. At this time, I came to a construction site where a bridge was being built. There was a short bridge across the river in front of me. Although it was slightly higher than the steel rope just now, the river flow here was fast, there were waves, and the bridge piers were dense. I wanted to reach the shore several times. None of Shang's countermeasures were successful, and with no other choice, the rafters decided to rush over. After adjusting the raft, everyone lay down and the raft ran steadily towards the bridge hole between the two piers of the short-term bridge. With the sound of water rushing, the bridge "brushed" overhead and the raft rushed across the short bridge. After dark, we arrived at Huangwanzhong Village, Shuichuan Township, Pingchuan District, Baiyin City. Eating "lentil noodles" at a fellow villager's house late at night.
At around 7 o'clock in the morning, we continued rafting amidst the sound of firecrackers from the villagers.
Hongshan Gorge is indeed as its name suggests. The mountains are all red. Looking at the river valley, it is wide for a while, narrow for a while, curved for a while, and shoal for a while. With the experience of the previous two days, everyone held their breath, dealt with it calmly, and passed the crisis one by one. Guanyin Cliff is an upright stone cliff, like a huge screen that goes straight into the middle of the river. When the surging Yellow River water meets this interception, it suddenly turns around and stirs up huge waves that reach the sky. Amidst the shouts of the raft workers, everyone shouted slogans and swung the oar vigorously. At noon, we arrived at a place called "Xiaokouzi", where we replenished water and food before continuing on.
Because Damiao Village was the intersection of water and land routes in ancient times, the people in the village are quite knowledgeable and extremely hospitable. We received a warm welcome here. Because we had lost contact with our family for two days and there were no communication facilities within 30 miles of the shore, we were at our wits end. When we were at our wits end, an enthusiastic fellow villager told us that we could make mobile phone calls on the highest mountain behind the village, and took us up the steep mountain in the dark. Only then can I report to my family that I am safe. The next morning, when we went to this mountain again, the sun decorated the exit of Hongshan Gorge and the entrance of Heishan Gorge infinitely beautiful. At noon, we reluctantly said goodbye to Damiao Village and headed towards Shapotou, Ningxia. Entering Ningxia, the two sides of the Yellow River changed into a different scene, with the mountains turning into fertile fields and an oasis. From the canyon to the plain, the water flow gradually slows down, the river becomes wider, and rafting becomes less difficult. We feel like we are in a water town in the south of the Yangtze River. Arrive at Shapotou and rest for two days to experience firsthand the tragedy of "the solitary smoke is straight in the desert and the sun sets over the long river".
Shapotou combines the four beauties of the desert, the Yellow River, the green waves, and the sea of ??steel. There is the vast desert with undulating waves and the endless Yellow River with its nine twists and turns. , there is also the man-made green Great Wall, and the beauty of the vast sea of ??steel is unparalleled. The beautiful legend of the golden sand bells and the miracle of desert control where man conquered the heavens brought the vast Tengger Desert to the foot of the Fragrant Mountain on the south bank of the Yellow River.
Before arriving at Qingtong Gorge, you have to pass through Shahu Nature Reserve. It is located in Pingluo County, Ningxia. The Helan Mountain in the west of the lake stands majestic, reflecting in the lake, and its power is transcendent. Clear water, blue sky, green mountains, yellow sand, green reeds, golden ears, green trees, and hundreds of birds are all colorful. They cleverly combine beauty and ruggedness, water towns and deserts, forming a rare wonder. Suddenly, there was a series of "plop la la" sounds in the reeds, and flocks of big birds flew out. There are countless bird's nests among the reed poles and at the bottom of the reed bushes by the water's edge. Every spring, colorful bird eggs are scattered throughout, which is a spectacle.
Entering Qingtong Gorge, you will truly enter the Yinchuan Plain that is "blocked to the south of the Yangtze River". The mountains and rocks on both sides of Qingtong Gorge are "earth-colored as gold" and the canyon contrasts with each other in the blue sky and clear water, giving it a bronze color. name. Not only is Qingtongxia's industry developed, but the construction of the Qingtongxia River Dam integrating irrigation, power generation and flood control started here in 1958, which greatly increased the reputation of Qingtongxia. It is said that "the Yellow River in the world enriches Ningxia, and Ningxia also enriches Qingtongxia". . That night, we camped in Qingtong Gorge, and an unexpected "human-mosquito war" occurred. Due to the richness of Qingtong Gorge, even the mosquitoes were larger than elsewhere, and their natural appetites were much better. The mosquitoes all went out to attack us. There were countless violent attacks, and the density was so high that it was unprecedented. The person in that posture would definitely not be able to withstand it. If you speak faster or take a breath, you can suck in a few mosquitoes. Sometimes you feel something in front of your eyes, close your eyes, touch it, and there are a few more mosquitoes - you can even catch mosquitoes on your eyelids. Finally, we took out the wine we were going to drink and sprayed it on our bodies, hands, feet, etc. It felt a little better. It seemed that the mosquitoes were overwhelmed by the wine and were drunk.
Thinking about the scene at that time still makes me frightened.
In Ningxia, you can take time to visit Zhongwei Gaomiao, Wuzhong Dong Mansion, Yinchuan Xixia Tombs, Western Film and Television City, Pingluo Sha Lake, the Old Northern Great Wall, etc.
3. Inner Mongolia
As soon as you step into the threshold of Inner Mongolia, you feel that the heat has stopped, the breeze is coming, large areas of sunflowers have grown on both sides of the Yellow River, and the green trees are blowing in the wind Swaying, through the desert, across the Gobi, and into the oasis, the Yellow River finally stopped flowing northward at the unknown place of Piwugeta and instead flowed eastward. The Yellow River rafting will reach Baotou from here.
Going around the mountains and through the valleys, going against the wind. Entering Inner Mongolia, the already slim Yellow River separates the Ulan Bhe Desert and the Kubuqi Desert from east to west, and the walking becomes more difficult.
We arrived at Wuhai City. After dark, two bonfires were lit. Friends from Inner Mongolia who were good at singing and dancing expressed their best wishes and enthusiasm in the form of singing and dancing. The song "Unforgettable Today" echoed in the wind for a long time.
The next stop is Dengkou. Dengkou is located at the west gate of the Hetao Plain. There is a dam specially built to divert the Yellow River for irrigation. The Yellow River is divided into two parts, namely the Yellow River and the self-irrigation canal. The locals call the Yellow River the "Big Yellow River" and the self-irrigation canal the "Little Yellow River". When you come here, you can walk around the "Agui Temple", "Lotus Cave" and "Shangle Jingang Cave" located at the eastern foot of Agui Mountain in the Yinshan Mountains. You can also see the "Yinshan Rock Paintings", "Ancient City and Tombs", " "Relics of the Great Wall of Qin and Han Dynasties" and "Sanshenggong Catholic Church", which was once the bishop's residence of the Catholic "Suining Diocese" and is worth a special trip. Of course, don’t forget to enjoy the fruits and melons here. Wallace, known as “the best melon in the world,” has a numb skin and yellow flesh, looks like a date stone, and is sweet and refreshing. Another unique place here is the "water bar", where all fruits can be processed into fresh juice for people to enjoy.
After leaving Dengkou, head northeast. There are many shoals here, making rafting more difficult. Every time you get stranded, you have to stop and go, carrying the raft and walking in the center of the river. Fortunately, the raft is very light, so you won’t be too tired. Man, but in the middle of the night, listening to the raft making a "chattering" sound due to the stones, the raft worker felt pain in his heart.
From then on, our trip was "smooth", and soon we easily arrived at the Sanhu Ferry in Uradqian Banner. We heard that the prairie and lakes here are beautiful, so we decided to go to Wuliangsuhai to have a look.
Walking through the Gobi grassland and across the rocky mountain ravines, I saw dots of yurts and villa-style buildings in the distance. It turned out that they were endless algae and water plants, covering the water surface. When I asked, I found out, "Wulasuhai" means "a lake covered with red willows". In addition, a large amount of nitrogen- and phosphorus-containing water in the Hetao irrigation area was injected into Ulasu, resulting in excess nutrients and the proliferation of aquatic plants, resulting in what it looks like today. Walking on the specially designed wooden passage in the lake, you can go straight to the boat platform in the lake. Everyone can enjoy the scenery of the lake area. Rare birds such as white cranes, gray cranes, and white swans beside the lake stop on the grass and among the reeds, spread their wings and wipe their beaks, and raise their heads to the sky to chirp. Touchingly naive.
The closer we got to Baotou, the stronger the wind became. We once again felt the strong wind setting off big waves and the spray of water hitting our faces. Everyone was soaked to the skin and shivering in the cold wind. , as soon as they camped at night, everyone eagerly lit a bonfire, stood in a circle with their backs to the fire, and baked their wet clothes. After going back and forth like this, we finally arrived in front of the Baotou Yellow River Bridge. This was a difficult journey. It lasted nearly 30 days from Lanzhou to Baotou, passing through canyons, crossing grasslands, and walking in the Gobi. From the Loess Plateau to the Yinchuan Plain, and then to the Hetao Plain, it withstood the test of heavy rain, scorching heat, cold wind, and big waves. , and finally realized the dream of walking the Yellow River on a sheepskin raft.
Sheepskin rafts are a unique means of transportation on the Yellow River. It is older than zip lines, cable bridges and floating bridges. It has gone through desolation. Although it has been exposed to the sun, rain, wind and snow, it still wears the stars and the moon, fights against the waves, survives all the calamities, and floats up and down in the long years. The mountain eagle is the soul that dances in the silent sky, and the sheepskin raft is the soul that dances in the vast Yellow River. As some poems sing: "No need for a light sail and a short boat, it only takes a moment to fly across." "A single reed is as big as a vast expanse of land." "Bamboo, wood, and sheepskin are connected together, and the waves are carefree. . There are three thousand wonders in the Yellow River, but this flying boat is truly spectacular.”
The northwest plateau is arid and rainless, but the upper reaches of the Yellow River are rich in water, and many rivers are formed by melted snow-capped mountains and groundwater. Sheepskin rafts facilitated river crossings and deserted mountains, and they also relied on the power of runoff to carry heavy loads for long distances. Especially on the many dangerous river passes along the ancient Silk Road, sheepskin rafts are even more free and bold. Like canoes, bamboo rafts, and wooden rafts in the remote mountains of the South, sheepskin rafts are water boats made by mountain people in the northwest based on local conditions and using local materials. They are full of optimism and wisdom in life. According to rafters, sheepskin rafts use sheepskin as a bladder, which is inflated by air to create buoyancy, just like a modern hovercraft.
The most critical technology is the production of sheepskin bags. When slaughtering a sheep, it is necessary to take off the sheepskin completely from the muscles and bones like a snake sheds its skin, scrape off the wool, tan it with green salt, and then add an appropriate amount of vegetable oil to make it tough. Then tie the openings of the limbs, neck and buttocks tightly, make a small hole in the legs, and blow enough air to form a skin bag. Finally, large and small wooden rafters are used to make a rectangular frame, and the skin bags are tied row by row to the beams of the frame with ropes to form a sheepskin raft.
The number of skin bags used varies depending on the size of the raft, ranging from a dozen to hundreds. He never embellishes, his appearance is unattractive, but he is not sentimental at all, he is very calm, generous and stubborn. No matter how difficult it is, you will never sink. The bigger the storm, the more energetic you will be. Walking through mountains and gorges, yearning for the heroic torrent. Where the river is gentle, the rafters talk and laugh leisurely, and the world is open and smooth; where the rapids and rapids are, the rafters wave their oars hard and shout to help, shouting to drown out the sound of the waves, and the sheepskin raft is like an arrow leaving the string...
< p>The sheepskin raft uses sheepskin as the bag, retaining the free and willful spirit of the sheep; the journey is also full of the wild nature of mountain winds and swirling waves, unrestrained and indulgent. The rafters are always accompanied by "Hua'er", roaring at the bold "Hua'er" along the way, resolving loneliness and loneliness, and showing the color of nomadic civilization. Before the Qin and Han Dynasties, this area of ??Lanzhou was the intersection of nomadic ethnic minorities and farming in the Central Plains. Cattle and sheep were everywhere in the upper reaches of the Yellow River, and animal husbandry was developed. The mountain people ate beef and mutton, used cattle wool and leather for clothing and bedding, and even used cattle and sheep skin bags to make water transportation vehicles. A place where water and soil nourish a person, nurtures and sublimates people's wisdom. Skin bags and sheepskin rafts, from principle to design concept to fine production technology, are undoubtedly a kind of cultural improvement and promotion.Don’t dislike the simplicity of sheepskin rafts. They are light, flexible and elastic, and are more resistant to collisions than bamboo. Even if one or several skin bags are damaged by rocks, the sheepskin rafts will still travel safely. Don’t dislike sheepskin rafts. Small in size, it has strong buoyancy and can carry loads easily. The medium-sized one can carry several tons of weight at a time, singing happily all the way. Don't think that sheepskin rafts are slow. They are steady and tough, with solid confidence and long-lasting perseverance. There is no ditch that cannot be crossed. There is no other shore that cannot be reached. It is several times faster than camels, mules and horses. The sheepskin raft combines the beauty of ruggedness, strength and excitement, and is superb. It is a kind of primitive and simple beauty.
According to historical records, the appearance of skin rafts was first seen in the "Book of the Later Han Dynasty", which records that the Huns "crossed the river on horse leather" and the Qiang guard Deng Xun "sewed leather bags into boats" in Qinghai. The scene of Guide carrying troops across the Yellow River. The book "Wu Jing Zong Yao" of the Song Dynasty said: "For those who float the bag, they can use the muddy sheepskin to blow on it to make it full... to cross." In "Shui Jing Zhu·Ye Yu Shui Chapter" and "Jin Shu·Murong Chui Zai Ji", There are similar records in "History of the Song Dynasty: Biography of Wang Yande" and "History of the Song Dynasty: Biography of Su Che". Sheepskin rafts even sailed to Shandong in the lower reaches of the Yellow River. However, most of the records in ancient history are "cowhide bags", called cowhide rafts or cowhide boats, which are larger in size and mainly used for military purposes.
In modern times, during the Anti-Japanese War, 2,000 sheepskin tires were used to make rafts, and a "raft shipping fleet" was formed in Lanzhou to transport 300 tons of gasoline from Guangyuan, Sichuan to Chongqing for military supplies. In the autumn of 1948, the People's Liberation Army used cattle and sheepskin rafts to cross the Yellow River at Yongjing Ga'nao Ferry and march into Qinghai. It took 500 rafters five days to carry 30,000 soldiers, 2,000 horses and weapons and equipment under the dangerous conditions of strong winds and waves. He was sent across the Yellow River and made military exploits.
In the past, we often heard the saying "sheepskin rafts used as warships". Those who knew the details knew it was a historical fact, and those who didn't knew it just regarded it as a joke and a joke. The most vivid and detailed account of sheepskin rafts is by the famous modern journalist Fan Changjiang. In his book "The Northwest Corner of China", he described his experiences and fun when he took a sheepskin raft from Lanzhou to Inner Mongolia for interviews in the 1930s. It also mentions the scene of asking a "xiabashi" with good water skills, familiarity with reefs, and water knowledge to guide you through the rapids canyon. Dangerous situations are everywhere, and dangers are turned into safety. It is full of praise for sheepskin rafts and rafters.
Until the 1950s, sheepskin rafts were still going back and forth on the Yellow River near Lanzhou, carrying vegetables, fruits, and daily necessities between urban and rural areas. In the upper reaches of the Yellow River, sheepskin rafts are still the main means of water transportation. Only with the increasing number of roads and bridges and the development of transportation have the sheepskin rafts gradually withdrawn from the stage of history and can only be seen occasionally in remote places. Taking Lanzhou as an example, in the past there was only one Iron Bridge on the Yellow River, known as the "No. 1 Bridge in the World", but now 14 more magnificent Yellow River bridges have been built.
Lanzhou, where animal-driven transportation was common in the past, has become the largest railway and highway hub in the northwest and an important airport. The transportation is no longer as convenient and fast as before. The waterways in the large reservoirs such as Liujia Gorge, Yanguo Gorge, and Bapan Gorge built in the upper reaches of the Yellow River are already busy with machines and ships riding the wind and waves. The sheepskin raft has witnessed its past glory and the great changes in the construction of New China, so it can rest in peace. Nowadays, sheepskin rafts and waterwheels have reappeared on the Baili Yellow River in Lanzhou, and together with the decommissioned Yellow River iron bridge, they are available for tourists to watch, tour and ride. They only add a touch of interest and evoke people's nostalgia for the past.
Although the sheepskin raft can only follow the current, it can only drift lower and downstream. After reaching the destination, the rafter will carry the raft back overland. "When you go into the water, you ride on a raft; when you go into the water, you ride on a raft" is a folk proverb in the countryside. However, the sheepskin raft dares to withstand headwinds and brave waves, does not avoid dangers, and faces difficulties. The goal is always ahead, must work hard, never stop, the soul is upward, and the will is progressive.
Therefore, among the group of sculptures with the theme of the Yellow River in the Baili Yellow River Style Line, there is one called "Bolang", which freezes the sheepskin raft and the rafters in the artistic conception of perseverance, bravery and forge ahead, which deeply affects people. Add confidence and strength!