Maintenance of kumquat:
1, tidbits
Kumquat is also known as Kumquat, Golden Bean, Lu Orange, Summer Orange, Jujube Orange, Luofu, Milk Orange, Golden Jujube and Gift Orange. It belongs to Rutaceae, Kumquat. Kumquat is native to southern China, Yangtze River valley and southern provinces and cities. The cultivation history is about 4000 years. According to Yu Gong's records in Shangshu, as early as the Yu Xia period in China, oranges were already presented to the imperial court as a tribute. Qu Yuan of Chu wrote Ode to Orange, which is immortal. Han Yanzhi's Annals of Citrus in Song Dynasty is the first monograph on citrus cultivation in the world. As early as the Western Han Dynasty in China, oranges spread from the "Silk Road" to West Asia. It spread to Japan in the 8th century. /kloc-spread to Italy, Algeria and Australia in the 6th century. China's bonsai kumquat is well-known at home and abroad. Kumquat bonsai in Foshan, Xinhui and other places in Guangdong has a very high level of gardening and has been cherished by people all over the world in the flower market.
Kumquat is flourishing, crowned with beauty and elegance, and evergreen all the year round; In summer, the flowers are as white as jade, and the fragrance overflows into the distance. In autumn, golden fruits are bright and can be enjoyed and eaten. Ouyang Xiu, a writer in the Northern Song Dynasty, praised Kumquat in the Record of Returning to the Field: "The fragrance is beautiful, shining in the room, like a golden ball, sincere and precious." Kumquat has "four delights", that is, it tastes pleasing to people, looks pleasing to the eyes, smells pleasing to the nose and has a pleasant reputation. It can be described as the "four musts" of form, meaning, state and scenery. "Mi Mi Jin Wan couldn't help stealing, and the most pity hangs on the treetops. The old man has no appetite and leaves his eyes in late autumn. " This is a poem "Kumquat" by Qian, a Zhejiang poet in the Ming Dynasty. He not only described the appearance and characteristics of kumquat, but also expressed his love for kumquat in his poems.
2. Ecological habits
Kumquat is an evergreen shrub with long oval or lanceolate leaves and smooth green. Flowers are solitary, white and fragrant. The peel is smooth and shiny, and it is golden yellow when mature. Flowering from June to July, bearing fruit in autumn.
Distributed in the south of the Yangtze River Basin in China, it belongs to subtropical tree species. Kumquat is warm and not cold-tolerant.
3. Cultivation points
(1) Soil: Kumquat likes fertile, permeable and loose deep soil.
(2) Changing pots: changing pots every two years, usually in May. When changing pots, cut off dead branches and diseased branches.
(3) Pruning: When pruning kumquat, use dense branches to control the height and keep the crown shape. After the fruit is set, thin the fruit according to the situation. Leave 2~# fruits for each branch at a time, and pay attention to wiping the tips in time to prevent them from blooming and fruiting again, so as to help the fruits ripen consistently.
(4) Fertilization: apply phosphate fertilizer to kumquat. Generally, full fertilizer should be applied before flowering, and chemical fertilizer should be applied slightly when fruit is set. Sufficient fertilizer should be applied when changing pots.
4. Pest control: kumquat diseases and pests include "red spider", "aphid orange", "scale insect", "butterfly" and "leaf miner", such as "canker disease" and "scab disease", which should be controlled in time. Please refer to other flowers for specific methods.
Protection of Phalaenopsis:
Phalaenopsis requires good ventilation at the roots, and the roots of Osmunda japonica are generally potted. Dry the roots in the sun, cut them into 5 cm long pieces, and then add some humus or peat and mix them with coarse sand or perlite. If Phalaenopsis is planted in ordinary pots, it is generally better to use porous pots. In order to facilitate ventilation, a shallow basin should be used, and the height of the basin should be less than the diameter of the basin. It can also be planted in a basket made of wood strips or metal wires and tied to the branches or trunks of tree ferns. Generally, half a pot of broken tiles is put in the flowerpot to facilitate drainage. If hanging baskets are used, a thin layer of sphagnum must be spread on the bottom of the basket to prevent potted soil from losing from slats or grids.
Generally speaking, Phalaenopsis needs to change pots once a year. When the roots of plants begin to grow again (usually in spring), it is the best time to change pots. Whether you are in a pot or changing a pot, don't water the plants in the new pot immediately. In the first three or four weeks, you usually only need to spray leaves once a day.
Phalaenopsis generally needs a stable, warm and humid environment all year round. The optimum temperature is 25-28℃ during the day and 18-20℃ at night. It should be noted that Phalaenopsis is very sensitive to low temperature and will stop growing at 15℃ for a long time. Generally, the annual humidity in the place where Phalaenopsis is planted should be kept at 70-80%. You can spray water on the leaves once a day, preferably when spraying water. Don't let the water drop stay on the leaves of Phalaenopsis. If it stays on the leaves for one night, black spots will appear on this part. Phalaenopsis likes a well-ventilated environment and avoids sultry weather. Poor ventilation can easily lead to decay. Phalaenopsis needs bright warm light all year round, so it is necessary to avoid direct glare. .
First, change pots.
1. Selection of pot: Generally, plain-fired ceramic pot or plastic pot is selected, and porous pot is the best, and the height of shallow pot is less than the diameter to facilitate ventilation.
2. Selection of culture medium: Phalaenopsis is a typical epiphytic orchid with developed root system. The culture medium must be loose, ventilated, breathable and rot-resistant. According to the author's cultivation experience, pine needle leaves, peanut shells and bark fragments are suitable as substrates for Phalaenopsis in the north. The pot must be replaced every year. If the pots are not changed in time, the potted substrate will rot, leading to shrinkage and poor air permeability. The growth of orchid plants declined seriously, even died.
3. Time and method of changing pots: The best time for changing pots of Phalaenopsis is late spring and early summer, and the temperature is above 20℃. At this time, just after flowering, new roots began to grow. When changing pots, first cut off the flower stems, gently remove the original nutrition pot, dig out the old substrate at the lower part with your fingers, cut off the old dry roots and rusty roots, and pad the bottom of the pot with broken tiles. Spread a layer of sterilized wet pine needle leaves on the bottom of the basin, evenly spread the roots of Phalaenopsis into the basin, and then continue to put the pine needle leaves on the roots of orchid plants and gently compact them to make the orchid plants stand firm. When planting, pay attention to the fact that the roots of orchids should be consistent with the height of the pots, and then spray water and place them in a ventilated place indoors. This period is not suitable for fertilization. As long as it is properly watered in management, it can grow in one month.
Bud leaves, and then normal management.
Second, the temperature
Phalaenopsis is mainly distributed in tropical low-altitude coastal areas, and the optimum growth and cultivation temperature is 25℃~ 28℃ during the day and 18℃~ 20℃ at night. Phalaenopsis is very sensitive to low temperature. When it is at 15℃ for a long time, it stops growing. When the temperature is lower than 15℃, the root system stops absorbing water and the leaves appear necrotic black spots. After too long, the leaves began to turn yellow and fall off. Before winter every year and the early spring of the following year (that is, before and after the heating period) are the periods of changeable climate in the north, and the indoor temperature can not reach 15℃, which is the most difficult period to maintain in a year. Orchid plants should be placed indoors at sunrise, watered less, sprinkled on the ground when necessary, and bagged at night to keep warm.
Third, water.
Phalaenopsis likes humidity, but avoids water accumulation. You can't lack water during the growing period. After a long period of water shortage, the leaves will turn yellow and cannot be remedied. Phalaenopsis cultivated with pine needles leaves will not accumulate water. When watering, spray water with a watering can until the water flows out of the basin and bottom. Sprinkle water around orchid pots frequently to keep the air moist, but be careful not to accumulate water in the heart of orchid leaves, especially in winter nights.
Fourth, fertilization.
Phalaenopsis grows fast and has a long growth period, so it is advisable to use thin fertilizer and apply it frequently. Orchids have just changed pots in May, and they are in the recovery period, so they are not fertilized. June-September is the growth period of orchids, which should be applied once a week, so that foliar fertilizer and potassium dihydrogen phosphate can be used alternately. Farmhouse manure can also be fermented with water and then watered with chemical fertilizer. If possible, you can buy special fertilizer for orchids and "Huabao" liquid fertilizer, dilute it 2000 times and spray it on leaves and cultivation substrates, and stop fertilizing in summer. At the end of autumn, the growth of orchid plants gradually slows down, so fertilization should be reduced. Excessive fertilization often leads to excessive orchid plants, which affects the formation of flower buds and hinders flowering.
Verb (abbreviation for verb) ventilation and sunshade
Phalaenopsis likes ventilation, avoid sultry, poor ventilation can easily lead to rotten roots and poor growth. When the temperature is low in winter, it can be ventilated for a short time at noon on sunny days, and the tuyere should not be blown directly to orchid plants. Phalaenopsis is attached to the shade of the dense forest in a natural state, forming a habit of liking shade. In home cultivation, there is less shading in winter, more shading in spring and autumn, strong sunshine and high temperature in summer, so special attention should be paid to shading and ventilation.
Six, flowering management
Due to the limitation of temperature and humidity, Phalaenopsis can only grow 2 or 3 leaves a year. Leaves only grow at the top, and flower buds grow between two leaves. After the flower bud is formed, the temperature is 65438 08℃ to 20℃, and it can bloom after 3 to 4 months. When pulling out the stem, set temporary support in the flowerpot to prevent the stem from lodging, and fix the stem several times to prevent the stem from breaking. When the first bud grows, the direction of the flowerpot cannot be rotated, otherwise the direction of the flowers on the Phalaenopsis will be different. The temperature of the full flowering period should be controlled between 65438 05℃ and 65438 08℃, and the flowering period can last as long as April by strengthening ventilation and humidity.
Seven, pest control
1. Leaf spot: mainly occurs on leaves. At the beginning of the disease, small spots appeared on the leaves, and then developed into a nearly round lesion with a yellow circle on the edge and obvious boundary. Prevention and treatment methods: strengthen ventilation, reduce air humidity and cut off diseased leaves. At the onset stage, 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder was sprayed with 800 times solution, once every 10 day/time, and sprayed continuously for 3 times.
2. Gray mold: It occurs in spring with low temperature and high humidity. Small brown spots usually appear on the petals of white flowers, and soft rot will occur in severe cases. Prevention and treatment methods: strengthen ventilation, reduce humidity, and immediately cut off diseased flowers. At the beginning of the disease, 75% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder was sprayed with 1000 times solution, once every 10 day and twice continuously.
3. Brown spot disease: It occurs in hot and humid weather in summer and autumn, mainly on leaves. At the beginning of the disease, small round spots appeared on the leaves, and then gradually expanded into large spots with dark brown spots. In severe cases, the leaves will turn black and wither. Prevention and control methods: pay attention to ventilation and light transmission. At the initial stage of onset, spray 10% Polaroid (polyoxin) 80 times solution/kloc-0 every half month.
4. Scale insects: The most common pests of Phalaenopsis occur in autumn and winter, and the indoor ventilation is not smooth, which leads to the harm of scale insects. Prevention and control methods: pay attention to ventilation, orchid plants should not be placed too closely. When a small amount is found, the scale insects can be scrubbed with a soft cloth, and the pests can be eradicated repeatedly.