From the Yoxi Zonglie basin at the northern foot of Bayan Kara, the Yellow River, which has gathered numerous plateau springs and gurgling streams, flows eastward to the Zoige grassland in northwest Sichuan and joins the Baihe River, which has already shown the magnificent true colors of the Yellow River. On the vast grassland with an average elevation of 3600, the mother river of the Chinese nation seems so quiet and leisurely. Like a euphemistic pastoral, it tells the long-lasting tenderness of "Prince of the Yellow River" and "Princess of the White Crane". They are tightly entwined at the foot of countless undulating plateaus and hills in Tangke grassland, and they seem reluctant to leave, and they seem to want to look back again ... The Yellow River from the east is here, although it is so slow, although it is so step by step.
Finally, she resolutely went north, leaving the beautiful scenery of "the first bay of the Yellow River with nine twists" on the Tangke grassland in Zoige. Climb up the hill on the shore and see as far as you can. The Yellow River to the north winds like a soft ribbon, cutting the grassland into countless rivers and crescent moons. In the sunshine of the plateau, white clouds and grasslands are reflected in the water, making people unable to tell which is the blue sky and white clouds and which is the grassland river ... There are sheep, cows and horses scattered all over the earth. Occasionally, the shepherd sings "flowers", which makes this land seem quiet and holy. People's hearts are purified inadvertently, leaving you with infinite reverie, the unique fragrance of flowers and grass in the grassland, the fatigue of life, the noise of the world ... all grievances and hostility disappear at this moment. Everyone blends in with nature. Even you will envy a good horse, a sheep, a yak or a butterfly or a wild bee flying among the flowers in the grass, eating rich, juicy and fresh grass. You can't help asking yourself: Who is the real master of nature …
A 60-year-old Amdo man, wearing a brand-new old sheepskin coat and riding a tall yak, floated slowly from the depths of the grassland. Naturally, casually and exaggeratedly, he leans on the yak's back, revealing his arms that are tanned and shiny by the plateau sunshine. His amiable face is covered with deep wrinkles, and his teeth are almost falling off, which sets off the outline of his face. His arrival reveals another unique scenery of the grassland, which seems to provide a perfect footnote for your innocent reverie-let you see King Gelsall's epic flying over the vast land for thousands of years, and let you listen to the footsteps of Tangut Qiang descendants along the way during the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. Tourists rush to take photos with the elderly, as if looking back at history and embracing the long years.
The huge C-shaped Gulf Stream in the First Bay of the Yellow River turns northward under a hillside. Just in the ravine, there is a small Tibetan Buddhist temple-"Tangke Temple", which forms a unique picture with the First Bay of the Yellow River. The chanting from a distance adds a lot of mystery and elegance to the "First Bay".
Leave Tangke and go deep into Zoige grassland. The whole grassland is crisp, with lush green grass and endless flowers. The grass is dotted with countless small lakes, which are blue and trickle like ribbons, connecting countless lakes in series. Against the background of blue sky, white clouds and flowers, they are so colorful and dazzling. Wildflowers all over the mountains, respectively, according to their respective flowering seasons, from the earliest purple wild chrysanthemum blooming in late April to the autumn chrysanthemum blooming in 10. Flowers on the grassland are one after another, and the competition is clear. Especially in July, August and September, walking in the ocean of flowers and grass. It makes people feel relaxed and happy, and they have to linger and revel in it. What is particularly intoxicating is the milky fog in the morning, and the dew is about to drip. Under the irradiation of various Xia Guang, each one is crystal clear and shining with dazzling light. Golden pheasant, swan, hare, snow leopard, white-lipped deer, red deer, sika deer, brown bear, otter, lynx and forest musk deer live here or run across the channel. In the water of the Yellow River, lazy yellow croaker swims around.
Zoige grassland is not only beautiful in scenery, but also rich in precious Chinese herbal medicines such as musk, Cordyceps sinensis, Fritillaria, velvet antler and Saussurea involucrata. It is in this cornucopia, for example; Peat, coal, iron, copper, uranium, manganese, gold and more than 30 kinds of mineral resources. In particular, peat resources are extremely rich, with a distribution area of more than 2,000 square kilometers and a reserve of nearly 4 billion cubic meters, making it the largest peat storage place in the world.
There are many natural ponds of different sizes in Geerdangba, the largest grassland in Zoige grassland, commonly known as Haizi, among which the most attractive is the famous Huahu Lake. There are three adjacent Haizi in Geerdangba grassland, the smallest is called Tsuoergan, the largest is called Tsuorha, and the middle is called Huahu. She is like a bright pearl that landed on the earth, and it is a beautiful treasure given by nature to the world. When I walked into Huahu, I had to fall in love with her at first sight, and suddenly I had a heartfelt infatuation. On the intoxicating blue lake, beautiful and attractive aquatic plants, reeds floating in the wind, clear blue sky and enchanting and colorful white clouds are reflected on the 300-acre lake, as if condensed into a colorful flower. The dancing black-necked cranes, wild ducks, herons and many unknown waterfowl on the lake make this flower more full of vitality. Huahu Lake and its adjacent "Haizi" constitute the largest plateau wetland in China and a well-preserved natural ecological protection area. Wetlands are natural reservoirs on land and have the reputation of "kidney of the earth". She is not only the guarantee of abundant aquatic plants, but also plays a magical role in regulating the earth's climate. Beautiful homes, national first-class protected animals, black-necked cranes and other rare birds.
The Geldanba grassland, which is full of flowers, makes people have a desire and impulse to lie in the grass, but they are worried about crushing these fresh flowers and plants. In fact, the grassland is not afraid of pressure, not afraid of stepping on it, and its vitality is extremely strong. Lying on the thick and soft grass, countless flowers accompany you quietly, smiling at you, as if talking to people in a low voice. Looking from a distance, I only feel that the sky is high and the clouds are light. A thunderous pounding of hooves broke the silence and started a flock of birds flying all over the sky. A group of horses hurried past the shepherd and galloped past with their hooves raised. This is Hequ Horse, one of the three famous horses in China! (7) A run by overseas Chinese is said to be severe. A?vagho?a nosed and galloped on the boundless grassland. Except for the occasional birds singing, the grassland soon became quiet again. People have a broad, quiet, deep and mysterious feeling about grassland. A feeling of awe arises spontaneously ... A shepherd's black tent is dotted in the distance, and dark blue smoke rises in the afterglow of the sunset. Twilight comes so fast. A moment ago, the earth was dyed red by the sunset glow, and soon it became deep and mysterious. As if the night is squeezed and condensed by the afterglow of the horizon. Those mountains that appear colorful and dancing in the distance during the day suddenly become majestic and solemn, making people feel so lonely and helpless.
The night is getting deeper and deeper, and the cry of Tibetan mastiff is heard in the distance.
Looking up at the night sky on the Zoige Plateau, it seems that there is no need for a space telescope. You can clearly see the stars all over the sky, and the dazzling Big Dipper points the way for Nightcrawler. The stars in the sky, like a huge brocade inlaid with jewels, cover the horizon from the top of the head. There was a howl of a wild wolf in the distant night, which made people feel creepy and deeply returned to the embrace of nature. More people appreciate the ancient life of mankind. ...
On the starry horizon, a star suddenly appeared, brighter and brighter. It was not until a pedestrian approached that it was discovered that this was the light of the temple and the surrounding "Tawa". This is the famous Namu town. This town is a combination of a town in northwest Sichuan and a town in southwest Gansu. Named after Namu Temple, a Tibetan Buddhist temple in Gansu. Across a small river, there is also a well-known Tibetan Buddhist temple-"Gelden Temple" in Sichuan. It is said that this is the first temple of the 18th National Congress of Yellow Sect. Because these two temples have their own long history and profound cultural heritage, and because they are the junction of Sichuan and Gansu provinces, they were called "Southern Mystery Center" in ancient times, which made this town famous in the whole Tibetan area and even the whole country. In the early morning, facing the morning glow, the Buddhist names of the two temples in the north and south rang, and the cigarettes of "simmering mulberry" (offering sacrifices to gods) curled up and filled the mountains and rivers. The magnificent temple pagodas are integrated with the steep and mighty mountains, and its charm reminds people of the legendary Shangri-La, making people realize the tolerance and humility of Buddhist culture. It makes people realize the true beauty of harmony in the world.
Looking back at the Zoige grassland, her vastness, her profundity, her diversity, her beauty and her richness, like a picture scroll, are deeply imprinted in my heart. She is not only like a ballad sung from generation to generation, but also like a beautiful girl who grew up drinking the milk of the Yellow River mother, which will always affect me ... Her charm in spring, variety in summer, fullness in autumn and solemnity in winter are as clear as a dream, but also more vague and secret as a dream. ...
author
Qi Min
20 10 summer