Things are unpredictable, and time waits for no one. The collapse of the Great West Line has made me understand that it is not easy to go west, and I have strengthened my determination to start again. If I can't do it in May, I will leave in July. Everyone is entering Tibet these days. After a little inquiry, several people are ready to go, and there is no need to consider any lines, equipment and vehicles.
National Highway 318 starts from Shanghai People's Square and ends at Friendship Bridge in Zhangmu Town, Tibet. It spans Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Anhui, Hubei, Chongqing, Sichuan and Tibet, with a total length of 5,476 kilometers. It covers all kinds of landforms along the road, including plains, hills, basins, mountains and plateaus, and breeds rich cultural landscapes such as Jiangsu and Zhejiang water town culture, Jianghan Jingchu culture, Tianfu Shudi culture and Tibetan Buddhism culture.
However, for all the westerners, Ya 'an, Sichuan is the real starting point. The group of people have no distractions. They arrived in Chengdu for more than 1,8 kilometers in two days, and arrived at Moxi Town at the foot of Gongga Mountain at 5 pm on the 28th. Although the town is small, it has a well-preserved ancient street of Ming and Qing Dynasties. There is a chic French Catholic church in the depths of the alley, and there is a paradox at the end of the street.
In the early morning of 29th, I went straight to Hailuogou Glacier Park and took the cable car to Camp No.4. In the distance, there was the snow-capped Gongga Snow Peak. The crystal clear glaciers descended majestic along the valley, forming a huge ice waterfall with a width of about 1 meters and a drop of 1 meters. It is said that when the snow and ice collapse, the blue light flashes, the snow and fog are all over the sky, pouring down, and the sound is like thunder, which is a great wonder of nature. The nearby mountain Changchun has no summer, pleasant climate, lush, magnificent white glaciers and lush virgin forests complement each other, which is amazing.
Hailuogou came out along the 929 County Road and went straight into Kangding City. It missed the Luding Bridge that was captured by the Red Army, and did not stop at Kangding, which was picturesque. It just looked at the red stone beach in Yanzigou by the roadside, crossed the first pass of Kangba, which is 4298 meters, and really entered the snowy plateau. According to the warnings of people who came over, it was the second.
Daocheng, formerly known as Daoba, is transliterated in Tibetan. We usually understand that dams are mostly dams and river dams, while western Sichuan is mostly mountainous. The flat land between mountains is called a dam, and Daoba means "the open land of mountain pass". During the Guangxu period of Qing Dynasty, rice was successfully planted, and it was renamed Daocheng, and its current name was changed in 1939. In the 199s, Sichuan and Yunnan fought for the name of "Shangri-La", and Aden, a rice city, was really known. Everyone knew that Shangri-La was in Diqing, Yunnan, but they didn't know that Shangri-La was in Ganzi Daocheng. It is said that Aden is the soul of Shangri-La.
I didn't expect fine weather early in the morning on 31st. The low clouds covered the mountain in the distance with a thick layer of dust. I arrived at Aden Scenic Area at 9 o'clock and transferred to the bus. When the bus approached Aden Village at an altitude of 4, meters, the troops in the same company turned pale and suddenly rebelled, which made the group feel at a loss. Fortunately, it was much better when they got off the bus, but he absolutely dared not move on. In order not to spoil everyone's happiness, he insisted on one thing.
at p>11 o'clock, we took the bus to Longtongba, and walked to the Chonggu lawn under the Chonggu Temple. Looking at the towering snow-capped mountains in the distance, several friends dropped their chains, and the rest changed to battery cars and went up to Luorong Cattle Farm at an altitude of 4,1 meters along the Gongga Galaxy. In front of us, it was wide, with rivers gurgling and yellow flowers everywhere. Surrounded by the legendary "Three Master" peak, Manjusri Bodhisattva Yang Maiyong in the east peak and Shanuoduoji in the south peak, all at an altitude of 5,958 meters; Guanyin Bodhisattva in Beifeng is immortal, with an altitude of 632 meters. These three snow-capped mountains are the patron saints of Aden.
The sacred mountains are all used for turning around. Turning around mountains is a way for Tibetan Buddhism to express sincere prayers. You can walk or kowtow while walking, and the most pious thing is to throw yourself at the ground. The original Shenshan refers specifically to Xumi Mountain, which is Gangrenbuqi, the main peak of the Gangdise Mountains on the Great West Line. According to legend, when Buddha Sakyamuni was still alive, all the gods and bodhisattvas who guarded the ten parties gathered here and turned around the mountain to wash away all their sins. Turn the mountain ten times, and you can avoid going to hell in 5 reincarnation; Turn the mountain a hundred times, and you can become a Buddha and ascend to heaven in this life; In the year of the horse, when Sakyamuni was born, he can increase his merits by 12 times.
There are temples of sacred mountains and sacred lakes everywhere in the snowy plateau, and turning mountains into water and turning stupas has become a part of Tibetan daily life. The "Three-legged Master" peak in Aden turns to Xiannai Day, which is about 25 kilometers around, which is a piece of cake for pilgrims, but for those of us who are in a hurry, few people will turn around. Generally, we take a bus to Luorong Cattle Farm and then cross the five-kilometer mountain road.
It usually takes an hour to walk five kilometers, but at the high altitude of 4, meters, you will be out of breath when you walk on the flat ground, not to mention climbing the mountain and climbing the colorful sea at an altitude of 4,5 meters. According to the experience of donkey friends, it is estimated that it will take 4-5 hours to walk, and it will take 3 hours to ride a horse. Because it is already noon when you arrive, the horse carrying people has been rented by the first person.
Because it was the first time for them to hike on the plateau and challenge the limit, everyone was very excited. When they crossed the meadow and began to climb the steep cliff, everyone obviously felt heavy under their feet and their legs were spinning. In addition, the weather was changeable, sometimes cloudy and sunny, sometimes rainy and snowy, and the windbreaker was impenetrable and sweaty, and they dared not take off their coats. The so-called road is not an artificial plank road, it is purely a mountain road stepped out by ordinary people, and many sections are gravel and running water. People step on it and it is muddy. Every time they step on a stone, they have to be on tenterhooks, and if they are not careful, they will be upset.
The mountain road is very narrow, so people have to avoid each other when they come and go. In a short time, the eight people who go up the mountain are divided into three groups, and they stop and go, and they get longer and longer. In addition, they can't contact each other without a signal. Everyone can only go their own way, master the speed and rhythm according to their own physical conditions, and avoid making a big mistake by forcibly following. The road is getting longer and longer, the road is getting worse and worse, the pace is getting slower and slower, and people are getting more and more tired. People who return along the road say that it is fast, but there is no hope at all. One meter who has always been stronger still falls behind.
After trudging for more than three hours, the whole person was exhausted and had no love. Fortunately, on the way, they met two companions. Everyone cheered each other up and walked alone. When they climbed a huge cliff with their hands, feet and cats, their eyes suddenly opened up, and a narrow path reached the sea of milk. But what was terrible was that one side of the road was an unfathomable abyss, as long as they were opposite.
In order to save their last strength, the three men decided not to take the usual road, and climbed up the five-color sea at the highest place obliquely along the hillside. The five-color sea, also known as the relic sea, is named after the refraction of light into five colors. It is said that it can "play back history and predict the future", which is both a sacred lake and a sacred lake. At the foot of Yangmaiyong Mountain, not far from the colorful sea, the famous milk sea is in the middle of a pool, and the milky white around it. Unfortunately, the sky is not beautiful, but it is still so quiet, so soft and so breathtaking under the shadow of glaciers.
It's 4 o'clock in the afternoon, and there are no tourists in the Milk Sea. In order to catch up with the returning battery car, the three people have no choice but to leave the Milk Sea. In fact, there is a path on the right side of the Milk Sea, and they can also return to Chonggu Temple. However, the pass, which is 13 kilometers away and close to 5, meters, is only comparable. The three men hurried down the original road, stormy and cold all the way, but they still couldn't hide their inner excitement. It took only one and a half hours to return to Luorong Cattle Farm.
I picked up the army halfway and lived in Shangri-La Town. After a quiet night, I felt dawn. I thought it was another boring long-distance trip, but God gave us a big surprise. For the first time, I met the majestic momentum of steaming clouds, the graceful state of low blue sky and white clouds, and the pure and clear spiritual journey for the first time. Although the trip to Daocheng Aden is short, it is definitely worth it. To paraphrase the poem of Cangyang Jiacuo:
In this life,
turn mountains to water to turn pagodas,
not to repair the afterlife,
just to meet you on the way,
Daocheng Aden.