Cover News Reporter Xue Weirui At the upcoming "Chengdu Panda Asian Food Festival" on May 15, the "Chinese Food (Recipe) Documentation Exhibition" will be one of the key special exhibitions. The first food recipe document exhibition held in a museum in history. Chinese food document collector Er Mao selected 1,500 recipe documents from the Ming and Qing Dynasties to the 1980s from his decades of recipe collection. Era, region, cuisine, events, celebrities, etc. are the main clues, comprehensively showing the history, changes and development of Chinese food culture (recipes). For this food document exhibition, Ermao, a collector of Chinese food documents, reorganized it. I have been collecting for nearly 30 years. " "Many people ask me why I collect. In fact, I don't collect consciously. I explore naturally because of my love. "In addition to the pleasure of collecting itself, he gained more meaning from the recipes beyond the collection. The 30 years of collecting old recipes are also the 30 years he has been engaged in food-related work. As a lover and researcher of Chinese food, in addition to China As a collector of food literature, Ermao is also an expert on the inheritance and protection of Chinese food intangible cultural heritage, and the founder of modern Chinese food poetry. "I have opened 30 restaurants in Chongqing, Chengdu, and Beijing." I have been researching and developing creative dishes for 30 years at the restaurant, read countless food books, and written many articles about food. But it was not until I faced these traditional old recipes that I truly felt the breadth and depth of Chinese food culture. ” After decades of carefully tracing these old recipes, Er Mao saw the development of Chinese cuisine and felt the magnificent development of food culture, as well as the inheritance and continuation from generation to generation. "Chinese Food", published in New York in 1923. The earliest one comes from the Yongle period of the Ming Dynasty. "" China's food culture reached its first peak in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, and reached its peak in the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China. This state lasted until the early 1950s and until the 1960s. Being suppressed. " Among the documents collected by Ermao after the 1960s, there were a large number of mimeographed recipes. These informally published document recipes moved him deeply, "" There are still undercurrents in the suppressed era, which shows that Chinese food The stubbornness and immortality of culture. The so-called immortality of Chinese cuisine is precisely due to the vital development of Chinese food culture over thousands of years. " In the 1980s, not long after the reform and opening up of the Chinese People's Liberation Army menu, food culture developed again. " "Similar to the explosion of poetry, philosophy and other social sciences in this era, traditional food culture also featured new colors, aromas, tastes, Shape, implement, and meaning are presented. "Er Mao believes that the many cooking masters who emerged during this period, as well as their writing and dictation of recipes and food history, are "authentic and insightful". The collection of recipes ended in the 1980s (there were very few particularly outstanding collections in the 1990s) Part), Ermao believes that since the mid-to-late 1990s, recipes have become increasingly copied and generally lack originality, so that most of the recipes since then have no collection value. History and Innovation Recipes without innovation have no value, and tracing tradition is precisely the purpose. Looking for the foundation of ""new". For Ermao, studying traditional recipes is a process of excavation, inheritance, transformation and utilization. It is the old recipes and old chefs that make it possible to innovate and inherit dishes today. Food requires creativity, and creation is inseparable Learning about tradition and studying old recipes is a necessary condition for innovating. ""I advocate innovation on the basis of tradition. Innovation without tradition is not tenable. "Ermao believes that new Sichuan cuisine, new Cantonese cuisine, new Huaiyang cuisine, etc. are popular nowadays, but if they break away from the tradition of traditional cuisine, it is difficult for the new style to have a long-term position. The rural food shortage certificate is based on the historical development of food. As a preface, the document exhibition is divided into three categories: Ming and Qing Dynasties, Republic of China, and after the founding of the People's Republic of China. In addition to these three categories, special recipes will also be displayed in separate counters based on regions, cuisines, events, celebrities, etc. For example, "" Sichuan. "Literature" is a separate counter among them, with nearly 300 volumes (items) of recipes and food lists related to Sichuan and Chongqing, as well as various grain, oil and meat stamps in Chengdu from the 1950s to the early 1990s. ""Sichuan Food List" also has a separate The display counters include the menus of famous Sichuan hotels such as Chengdu Restaurant, Jinniu Hotel, Jinjiang Hotel, Minshan Hotel, and Lili Restaurant. The most special one is the one that was directed by Lan Guangjian, a generation of Sichuan cuisine masters, and his direct disciples Zhang Songyun and Kong Daosheng. The "Chengdu Man-Han banquet" operated by two masters, "" is a very rare document and will be displayed as a separate booth. " There are many documents with special status such as ""Chengdu Manchu and Han Banquet", which will be presented separately as special counters in food document exhibitions. For example, in the ""Foreign Chinese Recipes Counter", there is a book "Chinese Food", which is known to the world The earliest Chinese cookbook in English, published in New York in 1923. "There is also ""Processing and Production of China's Famous Foods" from the 1950s and 1960s, a set of six books listed separately. ""This series of documents is mimeographed, so the number of prints is limited. It is also very precious from a perspective. " From the 1960s to the 1980s, China's major steel companies, including Shougang, Panzhihua Iron and Steel, Anshan Iron and Steel, etc., had their own recipes. In addition, there were also logistics recipes of the Chinese People's Liberation Army and recipes of the China Railway Administration, etc., all displayed in special counters.
"" Grain and Oil Supply Certificate" has also set up a special topic. "" Grain and Oil Supply Certificate is a product of a special era. It can be seen that in that era of material scarcity, we needed to eat to survive, and because we were hungry, we longed for delicious food. This is a historically significant presentation.
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