Song Dynasty costumes generally refer to the costumes popular in Song Dynasty, including the costumes popular in Northern Song Dynasty and Southern Song Dynasty. They are a pearl in the historical development of clothing, characterized by self-cultivation and fitness. In Song Dynasty, a kind of clothes with a straight collar and a pair of lapels were very popular among the royal family and ordinary people. The unearthed objects include Huangsheng Tomb in Fuzhou in the Southern Song Dynasty, Hejiaso Tomb in Hengyang, Hunan Province, and Maolu Tomb in Jintan, Jiangsu Province in the Southern Song Dynasty. Zhao Bo Tomb in Huangyan, Zhejiang, etc. The following are the characteristics of Song Dynasty costumes I brought to you, hoping to help you!
Women's Clothing in Song Dynasty
China's costumes are all handed down, and the Song Dynasty is no exception. It not only continued the clothing style of Tang and Five Dynasties, but also made some changes, innovations and innovations on this basis. Women's wear in Song Dynasty is more complicated, and different classes have different characteristics. The clothes of aristocratic women are still long sleeves, long skirts and luxurious clothes, which are similar to those worn by aristocratic women in the late Tang and Five Dynasties. The casual clothes of aristocratic women in Song Dynasty were fashionable and slender, which was very different from previous periods. The color matching of clothes has also broken the habit of giving priority to red, purple, blue and green. Pink, purple, scallion, silver gray and agarwood are used, and the colors are very bright. The pattern of clothes has also changed from a dull Tang Dynasty pattern to a sketched branch pattern. Ordinary women, especially working women or servants, still wear narrow-sleeved shirts, but they are thinner and longer than in the late Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties, and their colors are mostly blue and white. In short, in addition to the big sleeve shirts and fat skirts and trousers popular in the Northern Song Dynasty, narrow sleeves and thin sleeves are the main characteristics of the costumes in the Song Dynasty.
In the Song Dynasty, women's clothes included shirts, jackets, coats, backs and other items. The next clothes are mainly skirts. Shirts are one of the most common clothes, which are mostly made of light and soft materials such as Rosaline. Most shirts in Song Dynasty are embroidered with patterns. Yan is also a kind of short coat, which is different from shirt, because Yan is a common dress in autumn and winter, with long sleeves and narrower body than shirt; Therefore, it is different from a wide shirt without sleeves. Usually the color of Yan is purple or red, yellow is also common, and cyan, white or brown are rarely used. Even elderly women like to wear purple. In the Renzong era, there was a decree that women were not allowed to make clothes with white, brown and light brown satin. In short, like shirts, Lu is the most popular clothing, both of which belong to tops, and skirts must be worn under them.
Coat is a kind of winter clothes, which can replace robes, but robes are limited; According to the regulations of the Song Dynasty Ritual Bureau, most women can't take it except the maid. At the same time, the color of robes also has certain restrictions. Above the third level is purple, embroidered with crane grass, and below the third level is all yellow, without embroidery. As for the color of the coat, except white, there is no certain restriction, and you can come according to your personal convenience.
Women's uniforms in Song Dynasty were mostly tops and skirts, which were ancient dresses. The material of skirts in Song Dynasty, seen in the poems of Song people, is mostly a kind of light and soft material, with red as the color, purple is also common, and pomegranate skirt is the most famous. "The makeup is light and the eyebrows reflect the words, and the flowers avoid the pomegranate skirt." In addition to pomegranate skirt, skirt is usually the most common, and there is a vertical length in front of the skirt, so-called nepotism, which is used to tie the waist. There are no certain rules for skirts in the Song Dynasty. The most popular is the "eight big skirts", with four in front and four in the back, and the rest are exceptions. Some skirts are as many as twenty or thirty. This scene was the most popular among prostitutes in the Song Dynasty, because they could sing and dance well. The more skirts they cover, the thinner the wrinkles, so they dance more gracefully. In the Song Dynasty, short skirts and long skirts were the most fashionable, and "walking like a skirt sweeps flowers".
Sima Guanwen said: "In the Northern Song Dynasty, women refused to accept wide pants and [easy exhibition] spinning skirts to win, so that they could ride donkeys. When the wind blows, the women go to prostitutes, and the literati do the opposite. "
The skirts in the Southern Song Dynasty were called "chasing skirts", which were long and long on the floor and could not be opened back and forth. At that time, ladies-in-waiting rushed to adopt this group style, but it was only a novel and special style, which was not universal, so it could also be said to be a demon costume.
Men's wear in Song Dynasty
The general costumes of men in Song Dynasty mainly include: clothes, skirts, gowns, shirts, jackets, shirts, gowns, cranes, backs, sleeves, coir, and abdominal circumference. In the Song Dynasty, except for the coronation official dress and the coat petticoat, it was rarely worn.
In Song Dynasty, the robes were foot-long, with single and double clips. At first, they were called cotton gowns, also known as long gowns. Later, rich people used brocade to make robes, which were called brocade robes. Most people wear white robes or coarse robes. Robe is a kind of robe made of thick and short materials. In the Tang dynasty, there was a lack of crotch robes and crotch shirts, which were inherited from the Song dynasty, but the styles and names were slightly different. In the Song Dynasty, there was a lack of crotch shirts. There are two styles in Song Dynasty: round neck and right collar, wide body with big sleeves and tight body with narrow sleeves.
Short brown is a kind of coarse clothing made of coarse cloth or linen. Because of its narrow body and small sleeves, it is called sleeves. Different from short and narrow brown clothes, brown clothes generally refer to clothes that do not belong to the category of silk and brocade, and are also made of hemp or wool. Generally, it is easy for literati to wear in hidden soil, and it is also one of the household clothes of Taoism.
There are many varieties and styles of shirts in the Song Dynasty, including cool shirts, purple shirts, white shirts, sweaters and ge shirts. A cool shirt is worn outside, because it is light white, so it is also called a white shirt. Later, I stopped wearing it on other occasions as a sling to comfort the dead. Because it is purple, the purple shirt is split at the front and back for riding, narrow and short. Sweaters and Ge shirts are made of wool or hemp, and a horizontal bar is added under the shirt. There is also a hoodie named after wearing a black silk hat and a black round neck shirt.
Lantern Festival custom in Song Dynasty
Celebrate the Lantern Festival every year and watch the lantern show every year. In the Song Dynasty, Lantern Festival was definitely a national carnival.
Take the capital of the Northern Song Dynasty as an example. Every winter solstice, the government and wealthy families begin to prepare for the Lantern Festival: set up a stage on the south side of the palace (so that the emperor and his subjects can watch the wonderful performances of artists from all walks of life together), install railings on both sides of the Imperial Street, set aside a venue at the intersection of the main streets of the city (for the lantern show and performance), and help folk artists from all over the country to rehearse in Beijing (called "parade", which means "performance"). Of course, we have to spend money on it. Including light bulbs, lanterns, silk lanterns, mirror lanterns, China lanterns, water lanterns, dragon lanterns, phoenix lanterns, lanterns ... There are many giant lanterns that cannot be transported and can only be made on site.
"Tokyo Hua Meng Record" contains:
It is about 100 feet from climbing to Xuande Gate House, surrounded by thorns, which is called "Spine Basin". There are two long poles in it, which are dozens of feet high and end with colorful ribbons. There are hundreds of people hanging on telephone poles with paper paste, and the wind is like flying fairy. There is a music shed inside, and people are sent to entertain and have fun in front of the official.
On the south side of the palace, East-West Street, and on both sides of the street are several hundred meters long lighting display areas. People weave fences with barbed branches, and huge poles tens of feet high are erected in the fences, on which paper immortals, Buddha statues and opera figures are hung. When the wind blows, the gods and buddhas move, just like living. Between these two huge poles is a stage, and the government sends artists to perform.
If we come to the Song Dynasty during the Lantern Festival, we will be surprised to find a wonder: many people in the Song Dynasty actually put lanterns on their heads, people walk in the street and lights flash on their heads.
Jin Yingzhi's "A Talk about the New Drunken Man" contains:
Women also make lanterns for lanterns, which are as big as dates and chestnuts and decorated with pearls. Women in the city compete to wear them.
Skillful craftsmen in the Song Dynasty made lanterns as big as dates and chestnuts, and then decorated them with pearls and jadeite. They are glittering and translucent, and when they are inserted in the hair, they become the most dazzling ornaments. By the time of the Lantern Festival, all the women in the city are wearing such lights on the streets.
Lv Yuanming's Miscellanies at the Age of Years also has similar records:
On the Lantern Festival in Beijing, cooked dates are used to pound charcoal, pills are used as bullets, and Fuxi's iron branches are used to ignite, which is called "fire bayberry", and it is also inserted from the head of a pawn. He also made a lotus peony lamp bowl with a pawn on it.
Ladies wear lights on their heads, so do men. On the Lantern Festival in Kaifeng, the capital of the Northern Song Dynasty, dignitaries and wealthy businessmen went out, followed by a group of soldiers or followers, who were not only responsible for the safety of their masters, but also helped their masters to shake their prestige. In what way do you shake your authority? Is to put lanterns on your head. There are two kinds of lanterns on their heads, one is a lotus-shaped or peony-shaped lamp bowl, and the other is a "red bayberry" strung with iron branches. Myrica rubra is made by grinding dried dates into powder, pounding charcoal into chips, mixing jujube powder with carbon chips, pouring wax, making balls, stringing them one by one on Cycas, putting them on the fire, putting them on the top of the head, and following their owners to the streets.
Wearing a light on your head may be fun, but it is definitely not safe. In the Song Dynasty, most men didn't shave their heads. Like women, they wore a tall bun with a lotus peony lamp bowl or red bayberry fixed on it. They could only walk carefully step by step. It's a small matter to take a big step, but it's a big matter to knock over the lantern on your head. As long as a little naked flame falls on your hair, it will definitely be too late to put out the fire, and your hair will be clean and you will have to become a monk. Therefore, we modern people should only look at the Song Dynasty and never imitate it.
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