"Three Days Before the Mid-Autumn Festival"
The immersive cold light,
The refreshing fragrance——
Illuminating our faces The clothes,
slightly caused
a velvety sadness.
>
Today or later,
We must forget it for a while!
The night of September 2, 1922.
"Travel Diary along the Pingsui-Sui Line"
Qinglongqiao Station is 72.96 kilometers away from Fengtai and 561.137 meters high.
In As the extra-large locomotive moved forward slowly, the train gradually went up the mountain. The green cliffs and skyscrapers on both sides approached the train window, like a green velvet barrier, rotating and overlapping. The sheep on the cliff are nomadic, looking up at Xiaoji, like birds perching on the top of the tree. Among the flowing springs at the foot of the mountain, there are large rocks scattered all over the place, which reminds me of the saying of the Tang Dynasty: "A river of rubble is as big as a bucket, and the rocks are scattered all over the ground in the wind." Among the jumbled rocks, there are small trees everywhere, as well as mountains, fields and homes. In the slightly overcast sky, they are dotted layer by layer in the distance, making it extremely green and clear. At this time, I suddenly passed through the 385-meter-long cave in Juyongguan. The car lit up the lights, and there was a slight smoke in the windows. Five minutes later, it suddenly became clear again, twisting and turning, and passing through Wugui. After heading towards the two small caves of Shifo Temple, we arrived at Qinglongqiao Station.
In the few minutes we parked and reversed, we got out of the car and took a walk. The sun has come out. I look up and look back at the overlapping Guan Mountains. The wonder of the Great Wall is in front of my eyes! The majestic and thick city wall is like a flying dragon. It winds across the mountains and there are piers and abutments every thirty-six feet. I imagine the city back then. The heads are turned away, the beacon lights up the sky, and the garrison soldiers silently climb all over the mountain, which makes people excited!
The station layout is quiet, between the mountain gorges, among the lilac bushes, the dark green Mr. Zhan Tianyou The bronze statue stands majestically, as if looking at it quietly and admiring its hard-working work.
Get on the bus again, follow the turning V-shaped route, reverse down, and enter the cave of more than 1,145 meters in Badaling. This cave is one of the world's famous giants. After this is Kangzhuang, suddenly descending to a vast plain, looking back at the distant undulating line of the Great Wall on Badaling, it seems like it is in the sky! You cannot understand the meaning of the so-called "Kangzhuang Avenue" without passing through the "natural danger" Guangou. We are already outside the Great Wall!
Kangzhuang (84.80 kilometers away from Fengtai, 498.348 meters high) is a large station where goods from the northwest are stationed. . From here to the north, one looks flat, with vast expanse of yellow sand, and the faint clouds and distant trees at the end of the day, giving people a sense of desolation.
At about twelve o’clock, I came to the station. The city wall spans half of the mountain and has a unique shape. At about one o'clock, we arrived at Tumubao Station (111.78 kilometers away from Fengtai Station, 533.0955 meters high). It was the first to invade the bandits in the 14th year of Zhengtong in the Ming Dynasty (1449 AD). The place where he was captured. The deceased ministers of Jingtaichu were enshrined in the Xianzhong Temple in the city. There were 66 civil servants below Wang Zuo and military ministers below Zhang Fu. This is a national monument. Everyone in the car except me got out of the car and walked into the city.
Our special car was unloaded into the turnoff, and I got off by myself and sat on a big rock in the shade under the car. The cicadas were chirping, and I looked far away under the station wall, where some people were eating melons and enjoying the coolness.
Around three o'clock, people who had gone there came back one after another, talking loudly and opening a few cans. While eating jackfruit, they reported to me the situation in the city and the Xianzhong Temple.
At 5:05, we boarded the train from Tumubao and set off. Passing through Shacheng - green plum wine is produced here. It is said that Cao Cao and Liu Bei drank it when they were making wine to discuss heroes. I was very happy to hear its name and took a bottle with me on the way home. ——The stations of Xinbao Lower Garden run parallel to Yanghe River, and the water is mighty. Across the river there are two mountains with cockcrows and jade belts, and a temple is vaguely exposed between the mountains. This area is far away from the water and is very fascinating, like looking at a landscape banner. After six o'clock, we passed Xinzhuangzi and had dinner in the car. The dining table was facing the rear window. On both sides, we could see neat rice fields. The fields were densely planted with willow trees. Their soft and swaying branches were really Jiangnan style. From the rear window, I looked at the line of track behind the car and the two rows of weeping willows, which were drawn endlessly. Mr. Gu Jiegang recited Mr. Yu Pingbo's sentence "I am worried all the way out of Jimen", and everyone admired his skill in depicting the scene!
On the mountains on both sides of the Yang River, sand moraine is exposed from time to time. It seems that a huge whirlwind has rolled up these hills and mountains, which look extremely smooth and delicate from a distance. At this moment, childish innocence suddenly emerged, and I secretly thought that it would be interesting to go to the endless fine sand and roll over.
In the purple distant mountains and the crimson sunset, at 7:50, we arrived at Xuanhua in the late Tang Dynasty when Li Keyong "the hero immediately rose from Shatuo"!
July On the 8th
Xuanhua is 168.97 kilometers away from Fengtai and 591.617 meters high
At around 8 a.m., take a rickshaw into the south gate of Xuanhua, that is, Changping Door. The city was built in the 27th year of Hongwu's reign in the Ming Dynasty (1394) and has been rebuilt in every dynasty. There are stone door gods carved on both sides of the city gate, and the iron nails on the city gate are all shaped like bells. On the city wall, there are stone engravings of a child who is tired of winning, and a little monkey holding a stone plate, which have never been seen elsewhere. We walked through the city, passed the Bell Tower and Drum Tower and the most prosperous street, and walked out of the north gate.
What was most interesting to me along the way was that on the sidewalks on both sides of the avenue, there were stone ditches with small springs flowing in them. When passing in front of every house, children would wash their feet in the ditch, and the little daughter would wash her clothes in the ditch. It was very convenient. , and elegant, also nowhere else. In Xuanhua City, both men and women wear "waist gauze" in their official offices, which is exactly the opposite of the "duodu" worn by southerners.
Go out of the north gate and climb to the top of the city to see Weiyuan Tower and Yaowang Pavilion, both of which were built in the Ming Dynasty. Opposite there is the Zhenlu Platform, which is four feet high. Going up through the hole, you can look around at the vastness. There is a plaque on the platform with the words "Looking into the distance" written on it. This platform was built in the Jiayin year of Jiajing in the Ming Dynasty (1554), and there is an inscription from the Ming Dynasty. The name of the building is "Weiyuan" and the name of the platform is "Zhenlu", which shows that the barbarians in the Ming Dynasty were approaching Xuanhua.
Going further northwest, you will reach Longyan Iron Mine. The mine has been abandoned for a long time, and there is only a gatekeeper in the office. There are unlaid and rusty rails piled outside the door. In the 10th year of the Republic of China, this mine was originally a joint venture between government and businessmen. The sand smelting site was located in Shijingshan. The mineral quality is very good, and hundreds of tons of iron sand can be produced every day. It is a pity that the current situation has been unstable and has been suspended for many years. Among the construction projects proposed by the "Northwest Development Association" opened in Zhangjiakou this summer is the development of Longyan Iron Mine, which I hope will be implemented soon.
Going north from here, passing through melon fields and small forests, wading through a small muddy spring, you arrive at the foot of Beishan. There is a Catholic monastery at the foot of the mountain, which is elegant and pleasant. Someone from Yan led the tour. According to the surname of Dean Yun, Wu, there are sixty monks in this temple, all from the northwest provinces. There is a throne in the lobby, and fourteen Chinese paintings of the Holy Relic of Jesus hang on the walls, accompanied by poems written by Chen Jun of Fu Jen Catholic University in Peking.
Leaving the monastery and walking up the rocks on Beishan Mountain. There is Hengshan Temple on the top of the mountain. It was built in the Ming Dynasty and has become decadent. There are no walls. Only the front hall - Antian Hall - the back hall - the Zisun Empress Temple can still be entered. Looking down at the panoramic view of Xuanhua, you can clearly see it. There are many vineyards in the piedmont, and grapes are one of Xuanhua's famous products.
We got back in the car for lunch. After the meal, we entered the city again at about three o'clock. We went up to the Zhenshuo Tower in the center of the city. It was originally the Drum Tower. It was built by Luo Hengxin, the imperial censor of Gengshen in the Ming Dynasty (1440), and now it is renamed Drum Tower. The Public Education Center has many books and is in good order. Opposite is the Qingyuan Tower, built by Qin Xian, the imperial censor of the Ming Dynasty (1482). It is a three-story building. It was originally a bell tower. It is quite dilapidated. It is under repair and cannot be climbed up.
This time I went to a mosque in the north gate. There is a junior primary school in the temple. The tour was led by teachers. It is said that there are thousands of Muslims in Yuncheng, and the students are all children of believers. When paying homage to the main hall, everyone took off their shoes and entered. It was clean and dust-free. The red pillars in the hall stood neatly and glass lamps were hung, which was very beautiful.
We also went to the Chaoxuan Temple in the east of Ganlin Bridge. In the Qing Dynasty, it was renamed Chaotian Temple to avoid the Kangxi taboo. There are troops stationed in the temple, the outer hall has been converted into an art workshop, and the downstairs of the inner hall has also become a storage place. The upstairs is still large-scale, and there are inscriptions from the Ming Dynasty beside the hall.
From then on, we went to the Yujia Garden in the northwest of the city, also known as Jiechun Garden, which was the special property of Yu Huan Gong, the Qing garrison. It is now deserted, but there are still stone carvings, rockeries, fish ponds, stone squares and small bridges on the walls of the pavilion. They are beautifully arranged and show the ingenuity of the time. There is nothing left in the peony column. A craftsman is cutting down an ancient cypress beside the small bridge. There are children watching and laughing nearby, as if there is no sense of ups and downs!
Out of Jie Chun Garden to the Tiger The Second Normal School of Xiqiao is the ancient Amitabha Temple. The so-called "Amitabha came first and then Xuanhua" is attributed to this place. According to the original construction of Amitabha Temple in the Yuan Dynasty, it has been rebuilt in the past dynasties. Today, the temple has disappeared. Only in the north of the playground, under the small thatched pavilion, there is still a tall bronze Buddha, about two feet high and heavy. More than 4,000 kilograms, made during the Xuande period of the Ming Dynasty (1426). According to Zhang Jun, the principal of the Second Normal University, there were some treasures and Yuan Dynasty banknotes in the belly of the Bronze Buddha, but they were robbed by soldiers. The few remaining banknotes were transported to Baoding for display during the Cao Kun period in the early Republic of China. They have not yet been transported back. Now his whereabouts are unknown.
There are several grape plants on campus, which are producing lots of fruit and are more than 60 years old. The knotting method of the grape trellis is like an upside-down umbrella with the handle pointing upward so that each branch and leaf receives the sun's rays. This is what gardeners should imitate.
We left Xuanhua at 7:20 p.m. and arrived in Zhangjiakou at 8:30 p.m.