So was the high collar of Han women in Ming and Qing Dynasties the standing collar of cheongsam? It can only be said that the high collar and the standing collar are very similar, but careful observation shows that there is a great difference between them. First of all, the form is different. In the Ming Dynasty, the high-necked women of the Han nationality usually had no edges and corners, without too much decoration, and the edges and corners were straight and natural. But when we look at the standing collars of Manchu, they are generally angular. This trend is getting worse. In addition, he showed a certain radian in the shape of the gold ingot, which can be seen in the comparison of Sannianzi painted by Kang Tao at the same time. Second, the way to open the edge is different. The high collar of Han women is generally straight collar. The standing collar of Manchu women is an arc around the inner opening. Third, the forms of expression are different. The high collar of Han nationality is more decorative, and it often has two forms: inner shirt and outer shirt. In addition to a sweatshirt, you will also wear a pair of lapels or round necks and so on. It shows that the costumes of the Ming Dynasty have a mix of fashion and hierarchy. However, Manchu costumes are more practical as buckles than decorations, and generally only exist in the form of single coats.
In addition, the concept of standing collar was not correct even if it was called Yuanbao collar in Qing Dynasty. Stand-up collar is a kind of cheongsam collar after the 1920s and 1930s, which looks quite stiff. And this is not the most important thing. Because the difference between Hanfu and Cheongsam is not high collar or vertical collar, the logo of Cheongsam is its fabric buckle and oblique axillary line opening. Hanfu has lace and oblique waistline.
The stand-up collar in Han costumes is Ming stand-up collar, which is characterized by square corners and is tall and thin. The collar is usually decorated with two metal buttons. Therefore, this kind of clothing, also called "buttoning clothes", first appeared in the middle of the Ming Dynasty and was widely popular in women's wear in the late Ming Dynasty. Historically speaking, the appearance of the standing collar was related to the special climate of the "small glacier" at that time, but from the formation structure of the standing collar at that time, it was more like a variation of the wide-handed collar. Because the Eight Banners of Manchu in the late Ming and early Qing Dynasties forced Han people to "shave their hair and change clothes", women's clothing such as Ming vertical collar was kept for a short time. Lord Ming Shu should have two styles: one is a big coat (that is, oblique lapel: different from the factory lapel of the flag bearer, it is a straight oblique lapel to the lace under the arm); The other is a double-breasted coat. By the middle of the Qing Dynasty, that is, the middle and late Qianlong period, with the changes of the whole society, many changes had taken place in women's vertical collars. First, the height becomes lower, usually with darker edges. This kind of collar was replaced by a new kind of curved high collar in the late Qing Dynasty, which is also the originator of the cheongsam collar commonly known in later generations. In fact, the standard-bearer's gown is originally collarless, and the so-called cheongsam collar is just the product of the standard-bearer adding a collar to the gown by drawing lessons from China women's clothing.