(1) In
Mu Jiyi, from the Han Tomb No.2 in Yinwan, said, "You are all led, feathers are all led, and fresh branches are all led. ● The right is in the three collars. "
The wooden slips of No.6 Han Tomb in Yinwan are just right: Xiong Jun's clothes are sparse: "Morning pills are all in one collar, and [jade+'gone with the wind'] pills are all in one collar."
The clothing name of Zhu is also called Zhu. "Shuo Wen Jie Zi" Hattori: "All kinds of obedience." Then "Yu" means "Yi" province. These are all eye-catching costumes in the history of the Han Dynasty. When the Western Han Dynasty proclaimed himself emperor, Wang was chosen as the beauty queen of the prince because of his "strong affinity". History of the Yuan Dynasty in Han Dynasty: "With the Prince Chao and the Empress, I met five people, including Zheng Jun, and asked the deputy viceroy to find out what the Prince wanted. The prince had no intention of five people, so he was forced by the queen to say,' One of them can do it.' It was the political monarch at that time who was sitting beside the Prince, dressed alone, which Chang Yu thought was true. "Wang became the queen, the empress dowager, also known as follwed's aunt. Then it can be tied on a coat, and as a formal dress for women, it can have distinctive edge decoration.
The generals who started again also wrote articles about it, which caused ridicule and criticism from people in Luoyang and Chang 'an. "History of Emperor Guangwu of the Later Han Dynasty": "When the three officials (referring to Luoyang area) greeted the Eastern Expedition, they all crowned the generals, but they all wore women's embroidered clothes and laughed or dared not leave." Liu Xuan Biography of the Later Han Dynasty: "The officials conferred by Liu Xuan, the son of Li Xingong, are all small families, or they have banquets, covered with embroidered clothes and robes. Chang' an said to him:' If the kitchen is raised, the corps commander will be a general; Rotten sheep belly, riding a captain; Rotten sheep head, Shanhaiguan. Luoyang and Chang 'an were both political and cultural centers at that time, so it can be seen that in the orthodox concept, women's clothes are just "women's clothes" and men should not wear them.
However, the bamboo slips in Yinwan show that in the Western Han Dynasty, at least in some areas, Zhuyu was indeed a unisex costume. The owner of Yinwan No.2 Han Tomb is a middle-aged woman, and the "Zhu Yu" in the tomb moving strategy is to make women's clothes. Shi Rao, the owner of No.6 Han Tomb in Yinwan, was a meritorious person in Donghai County before his death, and the "Zhu Yu" in the strategy of moving the tomb was to make men's clothes. Therefore, in the history of the Han Dynasty, people like Li Xingong were not an isolated phenomenon. [2]
(2) Straight collar
Mu Jiyizheng, No.2 Han Tomb in Yinwan, said: "Frost makes me straight, and silk [jade+'gone with the wind'] makes me straight. ● Right straight collar and two collars. "
"Straight collar" is the style of collar. Huan Kuan's Yan Tiesan Xu said, "An ancient man, Shu Ren, was old and wore silk, and the rest were paralyzed, so he was ordered to wear cloth. After that, the silk was outside, and the straight collar was not worn, and the robe was suitable for Bak Yan. " The "straight collar and one collar" here means that "straight collar" is also the name of clothing.
The owner of the No.2 Han Tomb in Yinwan is a woman, and the "straight collar" is a female costume in the Han Dynasty. "History of Han, King Jing, Biography, Hui Wang and Liu Yue": "I love needlepoint embroidery." Jin Zhuo said, "Women nowadays are straight men. Embroidered as a square collar and stabbed with a composition. " The Biography of Follwed said, "Someone wore a red collar. ".Square collar, jacket. "Jin Zhuo is from A Jin, and it is understood that the straight collar is also a female costume in the Jin Dynasty.
As the "straight collar" of clothing, its style is similar to the "square collar" in men's wear. Interpretation of name and clothing: "Straight collar, straight evil, just like a husband wearing a robe." Biography of Han Yanshou: "Yellow-collared clothes for prolonging life." Jin Zhuo said, "Use yellow paint as a straight collar." "The History of the Scholars in the Later Han Dynasty": "The five years since the establishment of martial arts have been entrusted to those who took the lead in learning routines by repairing imperial academy, recording ancient prose, preparing dried tofu and making a list." Li Xian's Note: "Square collar, straight collar." "The Biography of Ma Yuan in the Later Han Dynasty": "I am well dressed, with a square neck, steady steps and elegant speech." Li Xian's note: "The first book of sound and meaning says:' The collar below the neck is a scholar's suit.' "Then the' square collar' in the Han Dynasty is a first-class costume and a Confucian costume.
"Continued Han Shu" is quoted from Taiping Yulan 137: "The Queen Mother has always been complacent and thrifty, and went to Longmen to see her family's daily life. This car is like running water in Ma Rulong. Her head is green, her collar is straight and her head is white. Far less concerned about imperial rulers. " Cangtou is a male slave. My family is arrogant and extravagant, saying that "the green collar is straight and the leader is white" makes Matthew uneasy.
Straight collar is also called "straight collar". Dialect Volume 4: "Naked ornaments are straightforward." Guo Pu's Note: "Women wear coats when they first get married." Straight collar is also called "E". Guangya Shi Qi: "Being straightforward is honesty." He also said: "Naked body is too long, too bright, too bright, too robe, too long." Because the straight collar is bare, it should be similar to the long one. "Urgent Articles": "Inside and outside the robe." Yan Shigu's Note: "A long gown is a robe, down to the ankle. This jacket is above the knee. In short, short, what is needed is short. " It also shows that the straight collar is longer than the general reed.
The "Frost ([Ru+'Frost']) straight collar" recorded in the wooden slips here is a straight collar sewn with light yellow Qizi; "Silk+Gone with the Wind" (light green) and (dark blue) straight collars are straight collars with clips sewn with light blue silk. [3]
(3) Single
The wooden slips of No.6 Han Tomb in Yinwan are just one thing: Xiong Jun's clothes are sparse: "Fresh branches and single collars." One or two antonyms: "Each is single."
"Single" is the name of clothing, that is, "Zhong". "History of Han Jiang Chong Biography": "Clothes are filled with yarn, and twists and turns are lost." Yan Shigu's Note: "Wear clothes today, just wear them."
Zhong Dan is also called "Zhong Yi". "Sui Shu Etiquette Record": "He Tong suggested:' The sacrificial clothes below Qing Dynasty have Hanfu, that is, today's single clothes. ""Hanfu is worn between underwear and coat. Interpretation of Names and Clothes: "Hanfu, in addition to small clothes, is also in the coat." This kind of clothing is connected from top to bottom, and its style is like ancient deep clothes. Zheng Xuan's note in the Book of Rites Deep Clothes: "Deep clothes, even clothes, are pure. Plain clothes are called long clothes, and watches are called medium clothes. " Because the single coat in Han dynasty is also like the ancient deep coat, the middle coat is worn inside the single coat, so it is called the single coat.
Most of them are used as linings for court clothes and sacrificial clothes. For example, Yu Jin Fu records: "There are nine chapters on (the Crown Prince's) clothes, white gauze with a single crimson edge, painted into ribbons, gold to ward off evil spirits, purple-green ribbons, painted wide-necked curved collars and crimson socks ..." "Single room with crimson edge" refers to a single room with crimson edge.
Middle coat and simple coat also refer to general inner coat. Interpretation of Dunhuang Han bamboo slips 1 143: "Single and complex bamboo slips have two collars, and single and medium clothes have two collars." [4] "Taiping Yu Lan" Volume 403 cited the danger in advance "Historical Records": "Zheng Hong is a rural miser. If a citizen has a brother who uses his brother's money but doesn't pay it back, his sister-in-law Hongyi will sue him. Shang Hong sold the money to his uncle. " Note: "Even today's sweatshirt." Then, the sheet can be used as an undershirt.
Ma Mao's Notes on China in Ancient and Modern Times: "Sweaters cover three generations of shirts." Li is called "single". Emperor gaozu fought with Chu and was sweating like a pig, so he changed his name to an undershirt. "The name" undershirt "has not been found in Han Dynasty documents and related archaeological materials, and it is suspected that it is a late word. The "Shan Zai Xian Zhi" and "Shan Zai Ge" recorded in the wooden slips here may be similar to the sweatshirts of later generations.
(4) Combination clothes
Mu Jiyizheng, Han Tomb No.2 in Yinwan: "Frost pills are combined into one collar." "The combination of silk [Yao+'Yao] leads to a straight collar. ""[Iraq+[Park] meatballs. Frost melts into one. "
There is only one thing about the wooden slips of the Han tomb at Yinwan No.6: your brother is sparsely dressed: "[Jade+'Gone with the Wind'] meatballs get a collar."
"He", pronounced "He", has a lined coat without batting. The clothing department of Shuo Wen Jie Zi: "Yi, clothes are hairless." Urgent Articles: "Reply." Yan Shigu's Note: "Clothes should be lined and restored with cotton." "Guangya Interpretation": "Strict and heavy." According to "History of the Huns", among the gifts given to Huns Khan by Emperor Wen of the Han Dynasty were "an embroidered robe, a long sash and a brocade robe". Yan Shigu's note: "Those who are obedient are said to be obedient. If you are stubborn, your clothes are not covered. Embroidered clothes, embroidered watches, but also inside. " Three miscellaneous notes in the Book of Qi Yao Min: "Silkworm has not started, and people are ordered to sew winter clothes and fully recover." "quilt" is thinner than "composite", because it has lining and no wadding, so it does not belong to winter clothes.
"quilt" is also used to refer to other lined clothes, such as petticoats. Gan Bao's "Searching for the Gods" Volume 2: "Both of them met a woman in vain, over 30 years old, wearing a purple and white dress and a silk shoe." The "straight collar" and "straight collar" recorded in the wooden slips here are straight collars and skirts.
(5) Hmm
Mu Jiyizheng, Han Tomb No.2 in Yinwan: "Silk [silk+'gone with the wind'] single branch, collar. Practice □ single and double collar. □ Fresh branches and two collars. ● Right hand, one hand and five collars. "
"Xu", pronounced "Xu", is the name of the dress. Guangya Shi Qi: "Call it a name again." "Set Rhyme and Theme Rhyme": "Shirt, trumpet, universal." Then "clothes" are "shirts". "Reading names and clothes" "Shirts, shirts, sleeveless bottoms." Wang Xianqian's Book Evidence Supplement quoted Bi Yuan as saying: "Cover short sleeves and don't undress." "Sleeve end" means "removed" and refers to the edge of the sleeve. "Notes on China's Ancient and Modern Times" Volume 1: "In the first year of the first emperor, court officials and court officials all wore shirts. Also called overskirt, it is good to serve. " Then the shirt should be a short coat. "Dialect" Volume 4 "Khan" Guo Pu notes: "This is called the slap of the shirt." You also have short sleeves. Because the shirt is a quilt and the quilt is a quilt, the quilt is similar to a quilt and is a short coat with silk floss.
Guangya Shi Qi also said, "Yes, yes." Wang Niansun's "Shu Zheng": "As an infant, everyone is a body." "Notes on the Dragon Cave" Volume 1: "I am wearing close-fitting clothes." In a word, "sword" is a kind of close-fitting short coat with short sleeves and sleeveless sleeves. There may be lining inside, similar in style to shirts (swords) and reeds.
In ancient books, "Yi" and "Bian" are often used as "Yin", which means "Yin mattress". For example, The Biography of Han Huo Guang: "Painting embroidered phoenix, painting with gold." Ruchun said, "It's also cloudy." Say, "Yin, I'm sorry." Sima Xiangru's "Beauty Fu": "The mattress is new, and the corner pillow is applied horizontally." [5] But the clothes in Yin Wan No.2 Han Tomb are sparse, which is not the case. Let's look at the format of the clothes (one side of the wooden slips). All kinds of funerary objects are divided into nine groups, each group includes several similar objects, and a black dot is added at the end, and a summary is made by "How many (quantity) are corrected". In this wooden slipper, the □ fresh branch with double collar, the ● right collar with three collar and the ● single collar with five collar are listed as a group, so the "ten" here should be the same as the "one".
(6) Large and small ridges
The wooden slips of the Han Tomb at Yinwan No.6 are just right: Xiong Junyi is sparse: "Qiu Yi will be big in the morning and evening." "Morning exercise, freshman." "Make a big plan early." "Practice Xiao Yan Er."
Clothing, the name of clothing, is also called "clothing". "Interpretation of Names and Clothes": "If you pay, you will pay two shares." "Shuo Wen Jie Zi" part: "Yi, Jie Yi also." Duan Yucai's Note: "Today's so-called condoms are also. One on the left, one on the right and two on the calf. " According to Duan's explanation, Geng is two separate "shin garments", such as today's folk pants. But archaeological data show that the above statement is not accurate enough. A cotton mound was once unearthed from the No.1 Chu Tomb in Mashan, Jiangling, Hubei. The mound is a whole, with the front waist closed, the back waist open and the crotch open back and forth below the waist. There are several similar examples in the remains of tombs in the Song Dynasty. Therefore, it is reasonable to think that this kind of integrated open-crotch pants should be a typical "squat" style. [6]
"Geng" is different in size. "Dialect" Volume 4: "The great one is called the fall, (Guo Pu's note:" Today's hail is also. " Xiaoqiu called it [Autumn+Jiao] [Autumn+Le], (Guo Pu's Note: "Today [Autumn+Jiao] Ye Qiu." ) ChuTong language also. "Da Geng is generally a man's foreign service. The 13th Biography of Han Dynasty: Liu Qu, the king of Guang Chuan, said, "The temple gate was painted by Cheng qin, with a short coat and a long sword. If it goes well, you can make a seven-foot-five-inch sword, and the clothes are effective. " The Biography of Wu Wuzi in Han Dynasty: Therefore, Liu He, the king of Changyi, was "short in clothes and big in bed, crowned with a rich jade ring and held a pen with a brush". Then I know that the shovel can be used as a day job. "Zhu Hanbo Chuan Shi" records that Qixian's fame is slow, and "the official wears multiple clothes, but does not save clothes". Yan Shigu's note: "It's a great voice, and it's great." The style of the pier should be loose. In Han's painting materials, it is often seen that men wear a kind of fat trousers with wide legs and drag them to the ground. This kind of clothing is either big or big.
Xiao Tian is about underwear. "Biography of Zhou People" in Han Dynasty: "Benevolence is too heavy to vent. Regular service makes up for the disadvantages. " Yan Shigu's Note: "Drowning in reading, urinating. All the urine is small. " Or think that small cockroaches are cockroaches. Chen Yuanlong's "Gezhi Jingyuan" 18 "Guanfu" said: "Hey, insult, small service." It's pants. Biography of Ruan Ji in the Book of Jin: "What happened to lice? Escape from the deep seam, hide in the wadding, regard yourself as a lucky house, and dare not leave the seam or move out of the crotch. " Because crotch pants can "borrow urine", Chen's statement seems to have some truth. But there are also small ridges that are not suitable for the crotch. The Mianling of Mashan No.1 Chu Tomb mentioned earlier is an example. The pestle was put on by the owner of the tomb. The crotch was open, and the foot of the pestle was folded into a pestle, and the edge was tight. Historical Records Biography of Sima Xiangru: "It is like a calf nose, mixed with Baoyu, and the washing machine is in the market." Then you can be not only underwear, but also pants. Therefore, a small bug is not necessarily a bug; Perhaps the difference between it and the pestle is not whether the crotch is open or not, but more about the width of the legs and the style of the feet.
A small quilt can't be used as a formal dress. Nan Shi Hou Fei Di: Liu Yu, the emperor at the end of the Song Dynasty, was domineering and headstrong. "He went out to open the door at night, went out in the morning and came back at dusk in the morning. With spears and guns in hand, pedestrians, men and women, dogs, horses, cows and donkeys are all free ... and they are not willing to accept their clothes. " It is unseemly for Liu Yuhe Hill to travel together, so historians wrote about it. In addition, because the cot is easy to move, it is also used as work clothes. Pi Rixiu's Ten Rhymes of Walking in Dongting Lake: [Autumn+'Jiao'] [Autumn+'Le'] Fisherman's clothes, the window of a wild shop. "[7] is the fisherman's [autumn+jiao] [autumn+joy], that is, the little cockroach. According to the dialect quoted above, "[Autumn+Jiao] [Autumn+Yue]" is the Chu language of Han Dynasty, while Dongting area is the hometown of Chu, and Pi Rixiu is a native of Tang Dynasty, so we can know "[Autumn+Jiao] [Autumn+Yue]".
The three big clothes recorded in this book are all early (soap) colors. Among them, "jujube (jujube) pill (pill)" and "Lian Zao (jujube) Da" are silk materials. "Wan" is a filament, and "Lian" is a cooked silk that has been practiced. Early (soap) cloth was made of flax. And the color of the two pieces of "practicing shuttlecock" should be the true color of "practicing".
(7) Giant towels
Yizheng, muxi, No.2 Han Tomb in Yinwan: "A green giant towel. Practice the giant towel two. A huge towel. "
"Giant towel", the name of clothing, is also called "knee covering". Erya Shi Qi: "Cover the front of the clothes." Guo Pu's Note: "Today covers the knee." Kneepads are tied around the waist, slightly like aprons, which can cover the knees. Interpretation of Names and Clothes: "Yeah, yeah. Lot, protect your knees. Protect your knees. So is the woman covering her knees. Qi people call it a giant towel. Tian Nv went out of the field, covered her head and thought she was famous. He also said that he knelt down and stopped when he knelt down. " Then the "giant towel" is the title of covering a woman's knees. Yinwan No.2 Han Tomb is located in Lianyungang, Jiangsu Province, Donghai County of the Western Han Dynasty, belonging to the same place. The owner of this tomb is also a woman. There is a "giant towel" in his dismissal strategy, which is roughly consistent with Shi Ming's statement.
Kneepads have many names. "Dialect" Volume 4: "Gai San", which is called "Qi" or "Qi" between Jianghuai. Wei, Song and Southern Chu were called big towels. An autistic thing is called a cover. The suburb of Qilu is called it. " Guangya Shi Qi: "Big towel, quilt, cover it." A kind of clothing has its own name everywhere, which shows its universality.
The knee covering is called "graupel" and "graupel", which shows the cortex. Also known as "giant towel" and "big towel", it shows that there are also textiles. More about the latter. The "green towel", "training towel" and "wisp towel" in this dress should all be textiles.
According to Wang Han Mang Biography, Wang Mang wanted to surpass his predecessors in fame and self-denial. "When my mother was sick, my wife was greeted by her wife. I didn't mop the floor and covered my knees. The people I saw thought it was a surprise to ask my wife. " Biography of the Three Kingdoms and Wu Shu Concubine: Mrs. Pan "Fortunately, I am pregnant, and my dream has been given to myself with a faucet, so I know it." Wang Mang's wife and Mrs. Pan are both harems, and their knees are covered with cloth. It can be seen that Han people wear knees regardless of rank. In addition, women may be the majority who wear knee pads. Yinwan No.2 Han Tomb and No.6 Han Tomb are basically contemporary. There are many similar funerary objects in their sparse clothes. However, there are only four "giant towels" in the clothes of Han Tomb No.2. ..
(8) Tuo
Mu Jiyizheng, Han Tomb No.2 in Yinwan, said, "Frost scattered a collar."
Hey, single quilt. "Yi Li Shi Mourning": "Yi, Jiao, Yi, Er." Zheng Xuan's Note: "Hey, Shan Bei is also." The dispatching strategy of Mawangdui No.1 Han Tomb includes "clearing the air [going up to the present, going down to the towel] and Su Xiangyan's life". "[Upper' today', lower' towel']" means "Tuo", which is used to wrap the body when buried. [8]
Book of Rites: "There are five pictures, but none." Zheng Xuan's Note: "Well, if we are recognized today, we will be category-oriented." . Being born with knowledge is different from being born with death. ""love "is a belt tied to the edge of the quilt. As a recognized object, it can be used as a reference, but there is no "love" for mourning. "History of Food in Han Dynasty": "Cloth and silk are two feet two inches wide and four feet long. "Today, Korea's foot is about 23 meters. Plus five, the width is about 2.53 meters.
A single quilt with a dark yellow silk lining and a brocade face was unearthed from No.1 Chu Tomb in Mashan, Jiangling, Hubei Province. The excavation report called it Tuo. The "skeleton" is unfolded in the shape of "elegance", which is the outermost layer of clothes and can completely wrap clothes and body inside. Its width is 2.34 meters, [9] slightly close to five.
(9) Frost
Mu Jiyizheng, Han Tomb No.2 in Yinwan, said, "Frost scattered a collar." "The collar of the frost pill coat." "Frozen pills and a collar" "Frost pills have come back to life." "Shuang Qi has a straight collar." "first frost is one of them." "Frost melts into one."
In the above seven articles, the word "frost" in the other six articles is placed before the names of silk fabrics such as "three meters", "ten thousand" and "qi", which shows that this word should represent a color.
"Frost" is pronounced "[Yi+Frost]". Wang Jia's Notes on Memories Volume 6: "(Emperor Zhao of Han Dynasty) fished, with gold as the hook, [Yi+'frost'] silk as nylon, and Dan carp as the bait, and caught white dumplings." "Silk" is quoted from "Taiping Magnolia" Volume 862 "Frost Silk". Then "frost" means "+frost".
Confucius explained "Yi+Frost": "Silk is like the color of newborn mulberry leaves." [10] Also, the jade part: "[jade+'frost'], bright color." There are two pronunciations of the word "frost" and "Li", one is "easy to rest and easy to cut", see the part of "Shuo Wen Jie Zi", and the pronunciation is "Xiang"; One is "Xuezhuang". See "Juyun and Yang Yun" and "Voice of first frost". The latter is pronounced exactly the same as "[Yi+Shuang]". So the word "[Yi+Frost]" should be the word "Yi".
The first part of Shuo Wen Jie Zi: "Silk is slightly yellow." "Urgent Articles": "Jade and gold are half-baked [left' vegetarian', right' spoon'". Yan Shigu's Note: "It is light yellow." The word "frost" in the wooden slips here means that the color of silk fabrics is light yellow.
(10) chestnuts
The wooden slips of Han Tomb No.6 in Yinwan are reversed in one second: Jun Di's clothes are sparse: "A chestnut coffin."
"Roasted chestnuts" means "steamed chestnuts". Poetry, elegance and swing: "People are born." Mencius Gao Zi Shang is quoted as: "Born to steam people." Then you can use the words "steaming" and "steaming".
"Steamed chestnuts" refers to a yellow color. "Interpreting the name and picking silks": "Steamed chestnuts, dyed chestnuts, make yellow as steamed chestnuts." "Urgent Articles": "Chestnut red." Yan Shigu's note: "If it is chestnut, yellow is chestnut."
The ancients used "steamed chestnuts" to describe yellow things. For example, Selected Works (Volume 42) Dali and Zhongshu: "I see the title of jade is Meiyu, white as polished fat, black as pure paint, red as comb of cockscomb, and yellow as steamed chestnuts." This is the color of jade. Selected Works Volume 94 Livestock Department and Cattle quotes Emperor Liang Yuan's Steamed Chestnuts and Cattle in Xiedong Palace: "The color is like the book of the Secret House, and the hair is like the jade of Wang Chen." This is the color of cows. "Steamed chestnut" is also used to describe bamboo slips. The fourth chapter of Hong Guangming's Ji Fa Yi, Ode to Dafa by Emperor Liang Jianwen: "Pulun was recited by Fu Sheng, the article of Lu Zhai was recommended by the teacher, and the jade was recorded in the stone and filled in by the Committee." The tenth chapter of "Great Unity" Liang Xiaoyun's "Xuanpu": "Open gold mud, cut jade, cut steamed chestnuts, and pick radish leaves." Here, the "seat in the coffin" recorded in the wooden slips refers to the seat in the coffin as yellow as steamed chestnuts.