Who knows the development track and present situation of Chinese embroidery?

In the Book of Rites Sacrificing Righteousness of the Zhou Dynasty, it was said that "all the emperors and generals in ancient times had government sericulture. When the silkworm is ripe, silk reeling is offered, dyed red, green, mysterious and yellow, which means "the article is a armor", that is, various patterns are embroidered on the dress with silk threads of different colors. Ci Hai interprets the word "fu" as embroidering semi-black and semi-white patterns on ancient costumes; The word "Nuo" is interpreted as embroidering half-blue and half-black patterns on ancient costumes. As for the word "Wen", it is called "Wen" embroidered with blue and red lines and "Zhang" embroidered with red and white lines in ancient Chinese. In fact, the word "Tiao" meant "Shen Xiu" in ancient times, and was later escaped as a metaphor. Another meaning of "Wen" means painting, which is the same as "Wen". " "The Book of Rites and the Moon Order" says that "Wen embroidery is constant". According to the annotation, "Wen refers to painting, and the dresses and tops of ancient sacrifices are paintings, while the lower clothes are embroidery". In a word, embroidery has a long history. The Shang Dynasty had specialized textile and sewing industries. Silk fabrics were valued by the royal family, and the Shang royal family set up a civil servant-female silkworm, who was responsible for sericulture. The earliest form of embroidery is lock embroidery, and the earliest embroidery seen at present is the "Dragon, Phoenix and Tiger Embroidery" unearthed from the Chu Tomb of the Warring States Period in Jingzhou. This is a Luo Lou Suo embroidery work, which is well preserved. Later, among the cultural relics unearthed from the Han tombs, there were many embroidery products, such as embroidered silk robes, yellow embroidered robes and HongLing embroidered robes. A silk embroidery was unearthed from the tomb of the Eastern Han Dynasty in Wuwei, Gansu Province. The embroidery thread used was extremely thin and unprecedented. There are no unlucky women in Wang Yi's local brocade in Han Dynasty. It seems that it is not too much to look with your eyes open. Embroidery in the Han Dynasty is mostly lock embroidery (braid embroidery). Of course, several of them are from Ping Xiu. According to "Taking the Treasures of Jun", during the Three Kingdoms period, Sun Quan, the Lord of Wu, often failed to pacify Wei and Shu. When he was fighting in the army, he always wanted someone who was good at drawing, who could draw the images of mountains and rivers, soldiers and formations. Zhao Da, the prime minister, has a sister who is very good at drawing and smart. She can weave brocade with colorful silk thread between her fingers. Zhao Da introduced his sister to Sun Quan, also known as Mrs. Zhao. Sun Quan asked her to draw pictures of Kyushu, rivers and lakes, plains and mountains and rivers. Lady Zhao said, "The color of Danqing is easy to fade away and can't last long. My concubine can be embroidered, embroidered on silks of other countries, and molded into the shape of the Five Emperors River and Sea City. "After the figure was embroidered, it was presented to Sun Quan, and the Lord Wu was overjoyed. People called it needlework at that time. Therefore, history has been handed down, and embroidery was created by Mrs. Zhao during the Three Kingdoms period. Unfortunately, this embroidery has not been preserved and can only be speculated by future generations. Fragments of Northern Wei embroidered Buddha statues were found in Cave 125- 126 in Dunhuang. It's a portrait of a Buddha and two Bodhisattvas, which shows King Yang Guangwang in the 11th year of Taihe (AD 487). Yue has an inscription, preface: "Embroidery and plastic life are infinite. It can be seen that the application of embroidery in the Six Dynasties was not only in clothing, but also in the field of embroidered Buddha and embroidery. Embroidered Buddha was also very popular in the Tang Dynasty. "Farin said:" On the occasion of Kang Xianqing's celebration, more than 20 temples were built in Xijing, and Xiu Xiang was built. It was lifted ten feet, which sounded shocking. This is the largest one in Xiu Xiang. There is a saying in the poem "Song of Drinking Eight Immortals" by the poet Du Fu, "Su Jin embroidered Buddha often likes to retreat from Zen after drunkenness before fasting for a long time", which also reflects the universality of embroidered Buddha in the Tang Dynasty. Clothing embroidery also became popular in the Tang Dynasty. According to "Biography of Empresses in the Old Tang Dynasty", "The palace is beautifully woven and there are as many as 700 workers in the palace". In the palace, bureaucrats certainly follow each other. Later, even the emperor thought it was too much. Tang Daizong wrote an imperial edict in the sixth year of Dali (AD 77 1 year), saying: "Brocade and embroidery consume too much women's labor ..... From now on, it is forbidden to produce all embroidery patterns such as Panlong, Duifeng, Kirin, Lion, Tianma, exorcism and Dajin. As for the longevity Korean white brocade and large and small brocade, they are still made according to the usual practice. Tell officials at all levels to treat it this way, and there must be no mistakes. However, the imperial edict could not resist the wheel of history and the trend of the times, and embroidery was not banned, but further developed. In addition to the traditional braid embroidery, Qi Zhen, winding, looping, sewing, needle and thread rust, Ping Jin method, looping gold, looping silver, pulling gold lock, velvet, velvet silk and attaching silk will be developed. During this period, the trocar, needle cutter and needle roller were injured. In the Song Dynasty, the government established Wenxiu Academy. From emperors to officials, they all wear embroidered clothes. According to the official rank, all kinds of clothes are clearly defined. Due to the advocacy of the government, folk customs have flourished and embroidery has reached an unprecedented height. In addition to Wenxiu Academy, there is also an embroidery painting major, which specializes in embroidering various paintings and works of art according to samples, which are divided into landscapes, pavilions, figures, flowers, fur and other subjects. Since then, embroidery has been divided into two ways, one is practical clothing art, and the other is appreciation art. With the vigorous advocacy of the government, the artistic quality of embroidery craftsmen has been continuously improved, and great innovations have been made in embroidery needle treatment and embroidery methods. Tu Long's "After Examination" describes Song embroidery and says: "Song boudoir embroidered landscapes, terraces, flowers and birds, with fine needle and thread, with no exposed edges. Sometimes, only one-tenth of the silk is used to divide the silk, and the needle used is as thin as hair, so the characters are very clear-cut, the silk color is dazzling, and the spirit and shape are ready. Color matching is better than painting, and embroidery and spring breeze are really out of reach. Dong Qichang, a painter and connoisseur in Ming Dynasty, also highly appreciated the achievements of Song embroidery. He said: "Song embroidery is exquisite in color, and it is vivid and wonderful regardless of landscapes, figures, flowers and birds, and its beauty is better than painting. The embroidery of a woman with ten fingers in the spring breeze can always surpass the painter's pen and ink. Wen Zhenheng's "Long History" also said: "Song embroidery is fine in needle and thread, exquisite in color, dazzling in color, interesting in mountains and rivers, graceful and intimate in flowers and birds, and one or two paintings must be hidden. In the highly developed Song Dynasty, famous embroidery craftsmen emerged one after another, such as Si Bai, Mo Lin and Qi Mei. The Taiwan Province Provincial Museum has a collection of Guanyin, immortal Buddha, Lao Zi, Lao Zi riding an ox, Gumbo butterfly in Meizhushan, birthday portrait of magistrate of a county, bathing portrait in Xianchi, flower and bird portrait painted by Huang Quan (painter of the Fifth Covenant), all of which are excellent embroideries. There were many wenxiu bureaus in Yuan Dynasty. From the Southern Song Dynasty to the south of the Yangtze River, after the establishment of the Yuan Dynasty, intellectuals or Gouan became an official or lived in seclusion, and the landlord culture rose in the south of China. Pure appreciation of embroidery school is characterized by imitating embroidery and calligraphy, separating from folk embroidery technology and combining with painting art. Refinement and innovative development of Ping Xiu's needling. Colored thread embroidery technology is very mature and unique in embroidery. There was an embroidery workshop in Beijing in the Ming Dynasty. Due to the refinement of dyeing and weaving technology, yarns with various shades and shades have been developed. Most women are good at needlework. Embroidering embroidery needed by families, collecting and appreciating exquisite embroidery has become a fashion in the upper class. Folk Gu embroidery has become an independent appreciation craft without real life. Gu Jia, Lu Xiangyuan, Shanghai, developed the embroidery skills of Song and Yuan Dynasties, taking the calligraphy and painting works of ancient and modern celebrities as the manuscript, and used various materials to embroider paintings, such as Pu Cao and Tai Hao. Its exquisite conception, exquisite natural materials, exquisite and beautiful embroidery, absorbed western romanticism and highlighted the perspective effect, so its style is famous from generation to generation. Weaving and embroidering techniques in Qing Dynasty are still divided into official embroidery and private embroidery. The official embroidery is concentrated in Nanjing, Suzhou and Hangzhou, which is called Jiangnan Sanzhi. It uses the most advanced technology to make objects for emperors and officials, thus making works with amazing technical level. In the city, there are shops dealing in embroidery crafts, and many painters participate in the design of embroidery drawings. There are thousands of embroidery categories, daily necessities are the mainstream of embroidery, and embroidery products are exported to Japan, Southeast Asia, Europe and America. " A dull woman has no misfortune, and a persistent woman can do anything. "With its exquisite and brilliant style, it has formed an embroidery system with local characteristics in various parts of the country, such as Suzhou embroidery (Jiangsu), Sichuan embroidery (Sichuan), Guangdong embroidery (Guangdong) and Hunan embroidery (Hunan). In the first year of Daoguang in Qing Dynasty, the first embroidery work, Embroidery Spectrum, was published by Ding Pei. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, western learning spread to the east, and Shen Shou created "simulated embroidery" with diverse and three-dimensional stitches, combining with western realistic expressions. Shen Shou is also an outstanding embroidery educator and art theorist. He taught embroidery in many places, and orally compiled a manual of embroidery in Guan Xue. At the beginning of Qing Dynasty, it inherited the tradition of Ming Dynasty, and adopted geometric patterns, large-scale flowers and branches, and traditional auspicious patterns. The color is mainly rich and heavy, and the style is simple and elegant, solemn and generous. In the mid-Qing Dynasty, influenced by western paintings, decorative patterns tended to be small and refined, with western flower patterns and gorgeous colors. Auspicious patterns are widely used in late embroidery themes. The patterns on clothes often include ball flowers and ball flowers. Embroidery patterns such as opening the light, covering the ground and brocade patterns are also quite popular. During the Qianlong period, color was fond of gold, and there were special styles such as ink embroidery and three blue embroidery in the late Qing Dynasty. Dozens of stitches are mature, and colored embroidery is the mainstream of stitches. In the early years of the Republic of China, there were many embroidery artists who inherited the Qing Dynasty, and embroidery research institutes were also established in important embroidery producing areas. The rulers of the new era under the non-imperial system no longer use embroidery as a decorative official uniform, and the atmosphere of folk learning embroidery and engaging in embroidery technology has gradually declined because of advocating the west wind and national war. Although embroidery technology is developing continuously, we can't see the grand occasion of embroidery in every household. Xiang embroidery originated in Chu, and reached the state of neat stitches, free and easy lines and skillful embroidery in the Western Han Dynasty. It reached its peak in the late Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China, and it is known as "color embellishment, no trace of ink, no embroidery painting without inspection". It uses colored loose silk as embroidery thread. Besides Qi Zhen, sewing and dusting, it also has a unique "mixed stitch" method, which uses staggered stitches to make threads of different colors mix with each other and gradually change, with rich colors and harmonious colors. The patterns of Xiang embroidery draw lessons from the advantages of Chinese painting. Most of them are landscapes, figures, flowers and birds, feathers and animals. They are lifelike and good at embroidering lions and tigers. The tiger embroidered by Xiang embroidery has strong and hard hair, which fully shows the strength of the tiger and the power of the king of beasts. At the 19 12 and 1933 Turin Expo in Italy and Panama Expo, Xiang embroidery won the best prize and the first prize respectively. The recorded history of Guangdong embroidery can be traced back to the deeds of Lu Meiniang in Nanhai, Guangdong Province in the Tang Dynasty (805). The artist twisted peacock feathers into velvet strands, embroidered colorful costumes, and embroidered outlines with velvet wrapped in ponytails as lacing lines, which enhanced the expressive force. After liberation, Guangdong embroidery has been further developed and constantly innovated. Guangdong embroidery is rich in composition, complex but not chaotic, decorative, colorful, smooth and smooth, and gold and silver cushion embroidery is rich in three-dimensional and magnificent. Guangdong embroidery has a wide range of themes, among which Bo Gu is the most popular. Among them, Guangdong embroidery and Chaozhou embroidery have different styles. Shu embroidery is concentrated in Chengdu, Sichuan. Shu embroidery was called the treasure of Shu in Jin Dynasty. Shu embroidery takes soft satin and colored silk as the main raw materials, and adopts 100 kinds of stitches, such as dizzy stitch, cutting stitch, pulling stitch, sand stitch and Shantou stitch, to give full play to the specialty of manual embroidery and form a strong local style. The themes of Shu embroidery are mostly flowers and birds, animals, landscapes, insects and fish, and people. In addition to purely ornamental embroidered screens, there are quilts, pillowcases, cushions, tablecloths, headscarves and handkerchiefs. In addition to the above four major embroideries, Chinese embroidery also includes Ou embroidery in Wenzhou, Zhejiang, Bian embroidery in Kaifeng, Henan and Han embroidery in Wuhan, Hubei. But when it comes to the first of the four famous embroideries in China, it should also belong to Jiangsu Suzhou Embroidery, also known as Suzhou Embroidery, which enjoys the reputation of the first embroidery in China. Suzhou embroidery has a history of more than 4000 years and is the oldest. Embroidery in the Song Dynasty was quite large. In the late Ming and early Qing Dynasties, Shen Shou absorbed the advantages of western and Japanese arts and embroidery from all over China, and created simulated embroidery with light and shadow effects. Danyang Zheng Zheng Women's Vocational School created random needle embroidery. From 65438 to 0957, Suzhou established the Embroidery Research Institute, which strengthened the embroidery research. Suzhou embroidery has been famous for its delicacy and elegance since ancient times. The composition is concise and the theme is prominent. Its technical characteristics are summarized as "flat, neat, fine, dense, uniform, smooth, harmonious and bright". The thinnest silk thread is broken into 48 strands, which is not clear to ordinary human eyes. Shuang Mianxiu embroidered patterns on both sides of embroidery. The patterns and stitches on both sides are the same, but the stitches are hidden, not exposed. At present, there are 48 kinds of stitches in Suzhou embroidery, which can be divided into 9 categories. The color is harmonious and elegant, without a trace of stiff jump. The stitch density is consistent and there is no unevenness. Su Xiu's subjects are mostly figures, landscapes, flowers and birds, including embroidery, picture books, screens and so on. Su Xiu's works participated in the Panama International Fair, enjoying a higher and higher reputation at home and abroad.