The main features of Hanfu are crossed collars and right gussets. They do not use buttons but are tied with ropes, giving people a free and elegant impression. These characteristics are obviously different from the costumes of other ethnic groups. Hanfu can be divided into formal clothes and regular clothes. From the shape point of view, there are mainly "top and lower skirts" system (the skirt in ancient times refers to the lower skirt), "shenyi" system (the top and lower skirts are sewn together), "skirt" system (ru, that is, short clothes), etc. type. Among them, the mianfu with a top and lower skirt is the most solemn and formal dress for emperors and officials; the robe (deep clothes) is the common dress for officials and scholars, and the underskirt is the favorite wear of women. Ordinary working people generally wear short clothes on top and long trousers on bottom. Shenyi is the most representative clothing in ancient China. It was developed from the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period to the Ming Dynasty.
There is a certain system for making deep clothes from making to wearing them. Ancient sages liked to wear deep clothes. According to the "Book of Rites: Deep Clothes" of the Han Dynasty, the length of deep clothes is as long as the bare feet, so that it does not expose the body skin and does not drag the floor. The lower garment must be hemmed and made of 12 pieces of cloth, corresponding to December of the year. The sleeves are as round as a compass, and the back seam is as straight as a vertical line. Both parents and grandparents are still alive, and the dark clothes are decorated with patterned edges. When parents are still alive, they will have green borders. If both are still alive, the dark clothes will be edged with white.
"Zhu Xi's deep robe" refers to the deep robe based on Zhu Xi's records of Zhu Xi's family rites. It has a straight collar and is worn with a cross collar. It has 4 pieces of clothing, all trapezoidal, without continuous gussets. Zhu Xi's deep clothing has a great influence. Japanese and Korean clothing are all made on the basis of Zhu Xi's system. Ruqun (rúqún). Ru: It is one of the daily clothes of the ancient Han people. The short coat worn on the upper body and the skirt worn on the lower body are collectively called the underskirt, which is a suit with upper underskirt and upper underskirt. Short tops, generally no longer than the knee.
The style of women's clothing with upper skirt and upper skirt has appeared as early as the Warring States Period. In the Han Dynasty, due to the widespread popularity of deep clothing, the number of women wearing this style of clothing gradually decreased. Based on this, some people believe that this kind of clothing did not exist in the Han Dynasty, and only emerged in the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties. In fact, women in the Han Dynasty did not abandon this kind of clothing, and there were many descriptions in Han Yuefu poems. The styles of underskirts of this period were generally very short, only reaching the waist, while the skirts were very long, hanging down to the floor. It only revived during the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties.
Classification of underskirts:
According to different styles of collars: they can be divided into cross-collar underskirts and straight-collar underskirts.
According to the height of the skirt waist: it can be divided into low-waisted skirts, high-waisted skirts, and chest-length skirts.
According to whether it is tucked in or not: it can be divided into single jacket and compound jacket. The single jacket is close to a shirt, and the compound jacket is close to a coat.
The skirt is one of the most important forms of women's clothing in ancient China. From the Warring States Period to the Ming Dynasty, more than two thousand years ago, although the length, width and width changed from time to time, the basic shape always maintained the original style. Half-arm is a very common and popular clothing in women's clothing in the early Tang Dynasty.
This is a short-sleeved cardigan with no buttons and is only tied at the chest with a belt on the placket. The half-arm collar is so wide that almost all of the breasts are exposed. When women in the Tang Dynasty wore half-armor skirts, they usually wore cross-collar skirts underneath, and covered them outside shirts and skirts, somewhat like today's short windbreakers.
Shen Congwen explained in "Research on Ancient Chinese Clothing": "Half-arm, also known as half-sleeve, is a collarless (or lapel), double-breasted (or pullover) style developed from the Wei and Jin Dynasties. ) short coat, which is characterized by sleeves reaching elbow length and body length reaching waist. "Half-arm style was first popular in the court of Sui Dynasty. It was first worn by palace officials and female historians, and gradually spread to the people in Tang Dynasty.
The most prosperous period of half-arm was in the early Tang Dynasty, and there was a significant decrease after the middle period. The main reason is that women's clothing in the early Tang Dynasty was obviously different from that in the later period. In the early days, most women's clothing was narrow and thin, close to the body, and the sleeves were also narrow and tight, suitable for covering half of the arm. Quju is actually a type of deep clothing. Shenyi is divided into straight and curved trains according to whether the train is wrapped around the lapel. The deep garment with a curved train has a longer back placket, and the lengthened placket forms a triangle, which passes behind the back and then wraps around the front of the body. It is then tied with a large belt at the waist to cover the ends of the triangular pleat. This may be the "continuation of the hook edge" mentioned in ancient books. "衽" means the skirt of clothes. "Continue the gusset" means to extend the skirt of the clothes. "Hooked edge" should describe the style of wrapping the lapel.
The emergence of the curved train is related to the fact that the Han nationality's clothes originally did not have crotchless trousers. With such several layers of protection, the hem looked more solemn and formal. Therefore, dark clothes with curved trains were more popular from the pre-Qin to Han dynasties when the hakama was not invented.
From now on, it can be worn by both men and women. The hem of the men's curved train is wider to facilitate walking; while the hem of the women's train is slightly tighter. Judging from the unearthed murals and figurines of the Warring States and Han Dynasties, many women's skirts have a "trumpet" pattern at the hem. Chuzi, also known as Beizi and Chuozi, evolved from the "half-arm" in the Sui and Tang Dynasties. It is a common dress for women from the Song Dynasty to the Ming Dynasty. The style is mainly straight collar and double breast, with open hips at the armpits, tied with silk at the waist, and length below the knees. It gradually became a common dress for women in later generations.
The wide-sleeved turban is only on the skirt, decorated with lace, and the collar extends to the hem. For narrow-sleeved jackets, the cuffs and collar are decorated with lace, and the collar lace only reaches the chest.
Influenced by Cheng-Zhu Neo-Confucianism in the Song Dynasty, people's aesthetics pursued simplicity. Men's turbans in the Song Dynasty were often worn under public clothes and rarely worn outside. Women's bra is worn outside and has become a typical style of everyday clothing. The bunt is "裋(shù)Brown", also known as "vertical brown" and "short brown". It is a type of Hanfu.
The original meaning of short brown is a coarse cloth top woven from burlap or animal hair. Short brown has also been extended to the working clothes and casual clothes (including tops and trousers) of the poor, people with low status, and servants.
Sima Zhen of the Tang Dynasty, "Suoyin": "裋, one sound is vertical. It means that brown cloth is cut vertically and is used for labor clothes. It is short and narrow, so it is called short brown, also called vertical brown." ; "Short sound vertical. Vertical brown refers to brown clothes cut vertically to save money and make things easier." An ancient note by Yan Shi of the Tang Dynasty: "裋 refers to the long jacket of cloth written by Tong Shu; brown refers to woolen cloth "Historical Records·Biography of Meng Changjun": "The scholar cannot be short-haired." "Hanshu·Gongyu Biography": "The family's income is not enough, and the wife's bran beans are not enough." "Historical Records· "Chronicles of the First Emperor of Qin·Lun" quotes Jia Yi's sentence: "If you are cold, you will benefit from the brown leeks, and if you are hungry, you will be happy with the dregs and chaff." "Jijie" quotes Xu Guang's sentence: "'裋' means 'short', which is also a small rut with a vertical sound."
"Short brown" is worn by people for convenience activities, home leisure, work clothes or martial arts military uniforms (training uniforms), but it is not suitable to be worn on ceremonial occasions. Bunts ("short browns") are clean casual attire.