The custom form of drinking tea in Song Dynasty has the characteristics of times and society in its historical time and space. In the Song Dynasty, more than 200 kinds of tea were produced nationwide. Among them, royal tribute tea is the most representative. At the beginning of the Northern Song Dynasty, Emperor Song set up a tea bureau and sent officials to supervise the production of imperial tea. They finally chose tribute tea from Beiyuan of Phoenix Mountain in Jianzhou, Fujian as the imperial tea, which led to the birth of extraordinary tea and opened a new chapter in the history of Chinese tea. According to records, the royal tribute tea "Long Tuanfeng Cake" was created by the Prime Minister of the Song Dynasty, and the small "Long Tuanfeng Cake" was created by Cai Xiang, the four great calligraphers of the Song Dynasty and the transit history of Fujian. During the period of Song Huizong, Zheng Kejian's reform of "the dragon begets blood" became a myth in the history of tea making in China, and no one can surpass it so far. The beauty and essence of tribute tea in Song Dynasty attracted a large number of literati. Drinking tea has not only become an important part of people's material life, but also entered the spiritual life of the upper class, becoming one of the themes of literature and art. During the "Song" period, there were 180 poets and poets who used articles to praise the tribute tea of the Song Dynasty, with 400 poems. Tribute tea in the Song Dynasty recorded the footprints of people's deep cultivation of tea in the Song Dynasty and the glory of tea creation in the Song Dynasty. Buildings with poems about tea can be seen everywhere. Su Shi, a writer in the Northern Song Dynasty, linked Jia Ming with beautiful women and wrote a beautiful sentence, "Good tea is always like a beauty", which was passed down by people. Lu You wrote more than 300 tea poems, becoming the poet who wrote the most tea in all previous dynasties. Lu You has a soft spot for building tea. He joined Fujian as a tea official and lived in Jianzhou, a place where tea was built. The famous phrase "Jianxi official tea is the best in the world" comes from his Jian 'an Snow. During Ouyang Xiu's illness, he was very happy to build tea. After tasting it, I wrote tea with Mei Gongyi. "Don't praise Li Bai's cactus, write Lutong calligraphy" is Mei's poem, which means that "Dragon and Phoenix Tea" in Beiyuan can be comparable to "cactus tea" and "Yang Xian Sun Zi tea".
Tea became a national drink in Song Dynasty, and the prosperity of tea culture in Song Dynasty was closely related to Zhao Bei, Song Huizong. According to "Xuanhe Beiyuan Gongcha", when Song Huizong was in office, the royal tea garden in Beiyuan of Wuyishan could not be confined to the traditional "dragon and phoenix tea group". We had to change it according to the emperor's wishes, and refined dozens of tribute teas for the emperor to enjoy: white tea, "Dragon Garden wins snow", "Jade bud in imperial garden" and "longevity bud". Evonne likes tea, not only because he is good at tea and tea art, but also because he wrote a book "On Tea", later called "Daguan Tea", which is about the method of making tea and the true rhyme of ordering tea. The book says that there is a good way to drink tea. First of all, pay attention to color, fragrance and taste. It can be seen that Song Huizong not only knows how to order tea to make tea, but also clearly understands the process of making tea and the aroma effect of drinking tea. Under the leadership of the emperor, with the increasing importance of tea drinking in social life, there were more than 30 kinds of tea books written in the Song Dynasty, many of which have become classics and precious heritages in China's tea culture works.
Second, the social foundation.
After the Tang Dynasty, the wind of drinking tea in the Song Dynasty penetrated into all social strata and every corner of daily life. In the Song Dynasty, there were teahouses, teahouses and teahouses everywhere in Kaifeng. Meng Yuan's Dream of China in Tokyo and Zhang Zeduan's Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival both describe the prosperity of teahouses on both sides of the Tokyo River. In the Song Dynasty, teahouses attached great importance to decoration, some of them were famous for calligraphy and painting, and some were placed with bonsai flowers, which attached great importance to the beauty of the environment. When recording the teahouse at that time, Meng Liang Lu said: "Bianjing Deli Store is decorated with famous paintings, so it lures viewers and lingers on diners. Today's Hang Cheng tea shop is also like this, inserting four-hour flowers, painting celebrities and decorating the facade. " From banquets in palaces and yamen to gatherings of relatives and friends, from welcoming, socializing and entertaining on various occasions to festive customs of life, there is no place where tea is fragrant, and fighting tea is more interesting and elegant. The tea ceremony is prosperous and the tea feast is prosperous. The wind of fighting tea is strong, paying attention to excellent tea, water quality and beautiful utensils. Tea is expensive, water is running water, and utensils are excellent. Select Tuancha, grind it into a cup and stir it with boiling water. Tea soup is pure white, followed by blue and white, and then gray; No water mark is excellent, and the first one with water mark is negative. Tea king "competes for official tea", there are folk tea farmers and ordinary people competing for tea; Monks love to fight tea, and there are Buddhist monks fighting tea in the temple; Celebrities praise water, while bureaucrats have poets and literati vying for tea. With the continuous innovation of tea ordering technology, a technology that can form characters and images in tea soup has emerged-tea separation. Under the admiration of Song Huizong and a large number of literati and monks, not only did tea transportation and marketing reach the extreme, but also the tea culture in China reached a historical climax.
Teahouses in the Song Dynasty are flexible in operation, with morning tea and evening tea in addition to opening during the day. According to "Dream in Tokyo", there was an early teahouse in Kaifeng in the Northern Song Dynasty, which lit lights every five hours. Besides tea, this service also provides soup and refreshments. In addition to tea shops, tea houses and teahouses that sell various drinks such as tea at fixed locations, in the Northern Song Dynasty, there were also tea drinkers carrying wine bottles from Kaifeng to midnight, saying, "Let's pay attention to both public and private, and come back at night." In the Southern Song Dynasty, Hangzhou provided tea service for officials, businessmen or citizens who were still in the middle of the night. In the "alley neighborhood, you can bring your own tea bottle to order tea along the door, or on the first day, in case of good or bad luck, you can send tea to the neighborhood to send a message", which provides great convenience for citizens' daily life.
Third, tea culture.
Tea style and tea ceremony prevailed in Song Dynasty. Kaifeng used to be the center of world tea culture, and the tea economy accounted for about 5% of the fiscal revenue at that time. The tea drinking culture in Song Dynasty was more profound and influenced the formation of tea ceremony in Japan and Korea. There was tea in Japan, before heian period. According to the documents at that time, tea was first brought back to Japan by Japanese monks studying in China at that time, and was first popularized in monasteries. Similar to China tea, Japanese tea has gone through the process from medicinal use to drinking. Master Rong Xi is known as the "Japanese tea ancestor". He brought back tea seeds from the Song Dynasty, distributed them to Beizhenshan and other places in Zhu Qian, and planted them there, bringing the tea-eating rules of Zen Temple in the Song Dynasty into Japan completely. 1235, Japanese monks fought round and round to enter Song Qiufa and brought back tea varieties from Jingshan Temple in Shizuoka, their hometown. Since then, the tradition of "Zen tea blindly" in Japanese tea ceremony has been firmly established. The Japanese "Matcha Road" mainly inherited the tea ceremony of China in the Song Dynasty.
Tea fighting and "Tea Hundred Plays" in Song Dynasty are legends of China tea culture. In view of the prosperity of tea-horse trade, Tea and Horse Department was established in Song Dynasty, which was responsible for exchanging tea for horses for the surrounding ethnic minorities. Horses are important war preparation materials. The Northern Song Dynasty established Tea and Horse Department, which is convenient for the court to control the minority areas. At the same time, the tea-horse trade has also promoted the promotion of minority cultures, especially tea culture, and gradually produced tea specially produced for minority areas-black tea (edge tea).
China tea developed from medicinal and edible to later drinking, which not only fully tapped its use value, but also formed a unique tea culture around drinking tea. "Boiling in Tang Dynasty", "Fighting in Song Dynasty" and "Brewing in Ming Dynasty" can be divided into classical drinks, romantic drinks and natural drinks, but only the tea culture in Song Dynasty rose to the romantic realm from "taste" to "play", which can be called the peak of tea culture in China.
Today's Kaifeng, Song Feng is vast and full of ancient charm. The cultural industry is booming and cultural projects are splendid. Qingming Culture Festival in spring and Chrysanthemum Culture Festival in autumn have become brands and carriers for inheriting and displaying the treasures of Chinese civilization. Come to Kaifeng, every step is culture, every listening is legend, and every watching is beautiful. The court culture, official culture, calligraphy and painting culture, religious culture, food culture, celebrity culture, folk culture, chrysanthemum culture and tea culture in the Song Dynasty, which inherited historical civilization, can be reified from the lingering fragrance of tea and cigarettes into court feasts, exquisite diets and exquisite and graceful official porcelain.