After the Spring Festival Gala, the performance of "Landscape and Colorful Clothes" on the stage caused a lot of controversy.
The costume show supported by The Legend of Gaia, I thought it would be a national-level Chinese costume show award, but I didn’t expect that after the broadcast, netizens didn’t buy it and made complaints.
Now that the public opinion storm has gradually passed, we can re-examine this discussion about "Chinese style" caused by Gaia.
"Why is The Legend of Gaia on the stage?"
"Is this traditional Chinese clothing?"
Why did the originally well-received The Legend of Gaia become so popular? Did it roll over?
Why did The Legend of Gaia overturn?
In fact, in recent years, whether in domestic or foreign shows, The Legend of Gaia has accumulated a certain degree of popularity, and the fairy-like Chinese style has always been people's main impression of him.
So where did the rollover problem occur this time?
Some netizens complained that the scenery and stage design of the stage were too local, as if they were farmhouse music, and gave a sense of "inferior online games".
In addition, plagiarism is also the focus of ridicule.
Netizens believe this is a plagiarism from Gaultier’s 2007 design.
However, more netizens think that this is not traditional Chinese clothing.
Check out the official introduction to The Legend of Gaia.
In other words, The Legend of Gaia is a brand that focuses on "Chinese style".
But there is not much "Chinese flavor" in this Spring Festival Gala look.
For example, this goblet-like collar is highly similar to the ruff collar of European aristocrats during the Renaissance, but there is no such design in traditional clothing.
In addition to the Legend of Gaia, Guo Pei, the “No. 1 person in China’s haute couture”, is also overturning the Chinese style.
Like Xiong Ying, Guo Pei's designs often appear in major programs. This time the Spring Festival Gala host's costumes were made by her, and she has also made exquisite costumes for many stars.
However, the reviews Guo Pei received both internationally and domestically were almost contradictory.
While she is well-received internationally, she has been receiving mixed reviews in China. Some people think that she is a "people's art collector" and does not have any sense of design in her clothes.
There is also Hu Sheguang, who is famous for his "Northeast Great Prints".
Zhang Xinyu’s Cannes floral jacket look was created by him a few years ago.
The northeastern red flowers are wrapped from beginning to end. These elements are indeed very ethnic, but netizens think this is a superficial ethnic style.
Many brands have experienced the same thing. They have been branded as Chinese style, but have been boycotted by major netizens.
So what exactly is Chinese style?
What exactly is "Chinese style"?
In fact, everyone is familiar with the term Chinese style.
In recent years, both domestic brands and international brands have been trying to adapt to Chinese style.
Take Legend of Gaia as an example. In its previous show videos and pictures, it has always focused on combining Chinese and Western styles. And viewers also liked this trick, and it was once hailed as the "Light of National Style" on social networks.
Traditionally hand-dyed with a water-clear color, it is like the glimmer of light on the water under the moonlight.
A knight-errant who is happy with the world, a gentle and charming girl from the East, and a gorgeous palace lady.
But success is also Xiao He, failure is also Xiao He.
As Chinese style gradually becomes a craze, mindless abuse becomes more common.
In order to fit the Chinese style, some designers have added elements such as blue and white porcelain, Chinese red, embroidery, dragons and phoenixes to their clothing.
Although they are all Chinese elements, when all of them are piled up, there will be a sense of complexity and heaviness, which makes people feel uncomfortable.
For example, this famous "egg pancake" is a yellow embroidered dress designed by Guo Pei for Rihanna in 2015. Yellow is indeed a color that represents nobility in ancient my country, and embroidery is also a traditional Chinese skill.
The elements are all Chinese, but in the eyes of netizens, this dress is just an "egg pancake."
Obviously, by piling up symbols regardless of context, the clothing itself cannot impress others, let alone call it "Chinese style".
So what exactly is Chinese style?
Many people believe that "Chinese style" clothing should retain its original flavor and cannot be changed.
But for clothing, after it is completely restored, it will definitely be difficult to wear on a daily basis. Because the tailoring and design of clothing can no longer meet the needs of contemporary life. Such "Chinese style" still only remains on the surface.
For example, Hanfu, Hanfu is pure "Chinese style".
However, many of the Hanfu we wear today have actually been improved, and complete reproduction and restoration are still difficult to adapt to the current market.
When discussing Chinese style, we might as well divide it into two parts-external elements and internal elements.
External elements refer to visually visible, concrete elements, which are symbolic and representative elements that have been left over after time. Like dragons, phoenixes, buckle tassels, etc.
The inner element refers to the spiritual connotation and cultural connotation contained in the clothing. It is invisible and is the soul of the clothing.
External elements are definitely needed, but they are not the focus. The interpretation of internal elements is the soul. This further tests the designer’s cultural heritage and ability to translate into design language.
In modern times, Chinese style is more based on Chinese tradition and integrated with other elements so as to adapt to the present.
The statement by Jia Xizeng, a professor at the Academy of Fine Arts of Tsinghua University, also accurately answered this question.
"'Chinese style' fashion refers more to a feeling, something vague and vague, not a specific Chinese style."
This sentence expresses it clearly Chinese style fashion focuses on internal elements, which is essentially a kind of post-modern art, invisible but spiritual.
The accumulation of solid and rigid Chinese elements is not the true Chinese style.
The "earthy Chinese style" design of Balenciaga that was ridiculed some time ago, and the Mulan-themed shoes launched by Disney are the best proof - overusing and piling up clothes is not Chinese style.
Because the real national style design is based on traditional Chinese culture to interpret the traditional charm of Chinese clothing.
It is like the sharp edge shown by the knights walking in the rivers and lakes, the aura shown in the eyes of the girls playing in the water by the stream, and the free and easy flow of the calligraphy masters.
It is a kind of charm that seems to be revealed continuously.
Based on their understanding and interpretation of traditional Chinese culture, Chinese and Western fashion designers first affirmed that Chinese-style clothing plays an important role in national design, but the technique and true integration into national life are a good design. premise.
The discussion on the legend of Gaia and "Chinese style" is undoubtedly beneficial. We can think more diversely about how to inherit and develop China's traditional clothing culture that has lasted for thousands of years?
This is also a major issue facing Chinese fashion designers.
The hot "Chinese style" still needs to grow
In recent years, with the rise of China's economy and the export of culture, "Chinese style" has become a hot topic.
Li Ning, a domestic professional sports brand, once lost more than 3 billion, but it relied on national style design to make a wonderful turnaround.
The sensational effect brought by the four Chinese characters Li Ning printed in red on the chest instantly swept the fashion and trend circles.
It not only represents the rise of Chinese sports brands, but also represents a counterattack of Chinese style.
In addition, Adidas released a youth series of commercials in 2020, boldly using Chinese-style scenes and elements, and the advertising settings, colors, clothing and music all reflect Chinese characteristics.
This advertisement also firmly caught the audience's attention and received unanimous praise.
Similarly, Chinese-style songs are becoming more and more popular among the public. GAI, who won the championship in "Hip-Hop in China" in 2017, can always hear the Chinese-style Jianghu charm in his songs.
All of this shows that the Chinese people have an increasing demand for Chinese traditional culture.
They are also constantly using their strength to prove that the Chinese can carry forward the Chinese style.
Chinese style is coming back.
Behind this is the rapid economic development and the continuous improvement of national self-confidence, which represents the urgent need for China's soft culture to develop and find its identity.
However, China has many industries but few real brands.
Compared with brands in other countries, although European countries are small in size, almost every country has several well-established brands. Various cosmetics from Japan and South Korea are sold all over the world, and basically all of them are Has its own uniqueness.
Looking at China, there are very few brands with Chinese cultural genes, and it is even more difficult for them to go abroad.
China has 20% of the world’s population, and accordingly there should be 20% of Chinese-style brands in the world.
Therefore, the development of Chinese-style brands is also the general trend.
Especially as the Chinese market gradually opens up, big-name brands such as Prada and Gucci have tried Chinese styles, and their revenue has still increased despite the overall environment being not optimistic.
Under this circumstance, when many brands integrate into the international market, they need to use Chinese style to drive development and promote sales.
The Chinese style works that people are discussing now are all infused with modern fashion on the basis of inheriting tradition, and draw inspiration from China's traditional style and national spirit.
When we look at the history of the development and changes of modern clothing trends from a current perspective, we will find that the most important thing is to have a perfect combination of fashion and nationality.
There are many changes in Chinese traditional clothing styles, but the most important thing is the charm and character.
In the words of fashion designer Wang Rongsheng: "In fashion, ethnic things are the best!"
So what does Chinese style look like in your mind? ?
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