Zhang Dai was born in the family of benevolent officials in past dynasties. In his early years, he roamed Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Shandong, Anhui and other provinces with rich experience. After three generations' accumulation, his family collected a lot of historical materials of the Ming Dynasty and read a lot. From the age of 32, he will write the biographical history of the Ming Dynasty with family information. After the death of the Ming dynasty, I went into the mountains and poor books. His works include Shi Kuishu, nirvana in fire, Dream of Tao An, Dream of West Lake, etc.
Zhang Dai has a wide range of interests. He usually pays attention to all kinds of people, trends, people's lives, customs and habits, as well as diet, fruits and vegetables. These are often disdained by authentic literati in the old days, but he has the interest and courage to appreciate and record. He wrote an "epitaph for himself", very frankly admitted that he was not a "servant, and loved wealth", and called himself a "prostitute and an orange abuser".
Zhang Dai paid attention to tea tasting, among which the section of "Fujian Laozi Tea" in "The Legacy of Tao An Meng" was extremely vivid: Yu Yue said, "The fragrance is simple and the taste is very strong. This is spring tea! It is the autumn harvest that counts on you. " Wen Shui said with a smile, "At seventy, no one is like a connoisseur." So I decided to pay. Zhang Dai deserves to be an expert in distinguishing tea.
Zhang Dai is good at tasting tea. He has also carefully transformed Japanese tea in his hometown and created a kind of "Lan Xue tea". "Casting snow buds that day" has been listed as a tribute in the Song Dynasty, and it has the reputation of "Yuezhou casting tea that day is the first in the south of the Yangtze River". However, in the Ming Dynasty, due to the exquisite production method of Xiuning pineapple tea, it became famous for a while, and it was eclipsed for a while, making it beautiful in Japan. Zhang Dai "attracts people to the sun", just like making pineapple, by digging, moving, scattering, fanning, frying, roasting and hiding. Then he explored the spring water and found that "when he poured the spring water, the fragrance didn't come out." He boiled spring water and put it in a small pot. The smell was too strong and it was mixed with jasmine. After repeated contests, he put it in an open porcelain jar and waited for it to cool. He washed it with boiling soup, the color is like a bamboo basket, and the green powder is evenly distributed at the beginning, like the beginning of a mountain window. Take a pure white princess, and it tends to be plain porcelain, just like a hundred stems of blue and snow. Xueya understood, but she didn't understand that the rest of the play was called Lan Xue. " (Meng Xuecha) Four or five years later, Lanxue tea became popular in the tea market. Shaoxing tea people changed their old habit of drinking pineapples, but it was not Lanxue tea that they did not drink. Later, even Songcha was renamed "Lan Xue". Lan Xue tea has this reputation, and the credit goes to Zhang Dai.
In the Ming Dynasty, Shaoxing had already opened several teahouses, one of which made tea, and paid special attention to the boiling water: "The spring is made of jade belt, the tea is made of Lan Xue, and the soup is cooked by spinning, so there is no soup stock, and the utensils are washed in time, and there are no organs. The soup is ready, and some people are with it. " Zhang Dai loved this teahouse very much and named it "Brother Lu", which means "Tea dew has a brother" in Mi Fei. He also wrote "Fighting Tea" for him: "Drinking tea addiction, ancient style, sharp grass and snow buds, which is claimed to be even more unique, especially for illegal cooking, has been dusty in Gezao, and no one appreciates it, resulting in feathers. If you choose a scenic spot, you can raise the Tang League again. Water symbols came from Yuquan, tea wars came to Lan Xue, melon seeds fried beans, no need to Ruicaoqiao, orange pomelo mountain nursery, Ba Ding Shui. It is never sweet, slippery, fragrant, clean or cold. Seven housework, no matter how much rice, oil, salt, sauce and vinegar there is, how can there be less in one day, and bamboo poles can be famous as well. I can't finish seven bowls, and I don't know the tea. A pot of dust is used to talk, and incense is burned on the couch in the morning. I am drunk. "
Zaoquan, a famous Shaoxing spring, which was once famous for its Tiger Running Spring and Hui Quan, was once unknown. Zhang Daizhong discovered it again. He described this process in the article "Spring in Spring":
Jia, castrated Bambusa bambusa, sipped water, phosphorus phosphorus has cinnamon pepper. It's different. Look at its color, such as autumn moon, frosty sky, white sky, and light haze coming out of the hole, dazzling and charming, vaguely. I saw calligraphy and painting in a hurry at the wellhead, and with a brush, the words came out. Calligraphy is as big as the right army. Benefit from differences. Try tea. It smells delicious. There are few fishstones in Xinji, so it will be used up after three days. There is no other way to tell the spring water apart from taking the water inlet and licking your tongue and upper jaw. If there is no water to swallow, it will be spring. Good-hearted people will take it to make wine, or open a teahouse in the spring, or sell it in an urn and feed it to a company. Dong Fangbo kept crossing the river and drinking its water. He was willing to give it, but he was afraid of not giving it. He blocked the spring and became more and more famous.
Tea, tea theory and tea people are all described in Zhang Dai's collected works. Zhang Dai is a tea friend, and one of his tea friends will be in Luyungu, where "it's not a big storm, but a last resort, and he will come to my house every day to sip tea and burn incense, laughing and joking for thirteen years" and talk to him about "drinking white water" for weeks. His elder brother, Ji Di Shan Min, likes "Mi Dian Stone, Purple Electric Beads, Mulberry Tea, Dongpo Pork", and his elder brother, who fought for tea with him, "drives the Central Plains side by side, who lives or dies", are also "tea addicts".
Dai is still admiring that tea set. His younger brother, Shanmin, got a porcelain pot with ancient style. He played for a year, but it was Hu Ming: "Bathing in the sun and the moon is also its color, jade in the kiln is also its breath, and Qingshan is also its diet." There is also a mysterious tea bowl. Zhang Daiyou said, "At the beginning of autumn, under the green trees. Out of plain porcelain, have a quiet night. " There is also a teapot that has not been carved by the producer. Zhang Dai confirmed that it was written by Gong Chun, and specially wrote: "There are many famous ancient paintings. This pot looks like Gong Chun, and Dabin recognized it. Do you dare? "
Zhang Dai was a tea ceremony expert in the late Ming and early Qing Dynasties.