1. Ancient poems describing ancient women's buns
Wen Tingyun "Jiuquanzi": "The jade hairpin is slanted in the bun, and the skirt is covered with golden phoenix."
Wen Tingyun · "Nan Ge Zi" "The Japanese comb their buns low, and use silk to sweep their eyebrows carefully"
Bai Juyi · "Song of Everlasting Sorrow": "The temples are half fresh when sleeping, and the flower crowns are not neat when they come to the hall"
p>Cao Zhi's "Ode to the Goddess of Luo": "Yun bun E'e, eyebrows trimmed and connected. Red lips are bright on the outside, white teeth are fresh on the inside, bright eyes are good at gazing, and the dimples assist in inheriting the power."
Liu Yong· "Yangzhou Slow": "Dark clouds fall into the bun, and the cherry mouth is small,"
Ouyang Xiu's "Nan Gezi": "Phoenix bun with gold mud belt, dragon pattern jade palm comb"
Sima Guang "Xijiang" "Moon": "The bun is loosely pulled up, and the plum blossoms are lightly made up."
Meng Haoran·"Beauty's Fragrance": "The bun is hanging down, and the eyebrows are lightly brushed."
"Han Yuefu·Mo Shang Sang": "The Japanese bonobo has a bun on his head, and there are bright moon beads in his ears."
Xiang Anshi: "The west is tall and graceful, and the east is petite and graceful with curved eyebrows. "
He Ning's "Gong Ci": "The scent of the snail bun is strong, and the water is flowing in the breeze." 2. A poem describing a lady
Beautiful lady. Du Fu had a beautiful woman who lived in a secluded valley.
The daughter of Ziyunliang's family is scattered among the vegetation. There was chaos in Guanzhong in the past, and brothers were killed.
It doesn’t matter how high the official is, he must not accept his flesh and blood. The evil situation in the world is declining, and everything is changing.
The husband is frivolous, but the newlywed is as beautiful as jade. When it is still clear that the night is dark, the mandarin ducks will not stay alone.
But when you see a new person smile, you hear an old person cry. The water in the mountain spring is clear, and the water in the mountain spring is turbid.
The maid returns from selling pearls and mends the hut with turnips. Pick flowers without inserting them into your hair, pick cypresses to make your hair full.
The green sleeves are thin in the cold weather, and the bamboos are leaning against them at dusk. Ode to Xi Shi by Wang Wei The beauty of the world is heavy, but Xi Shi's tranquility has faded for a long time.
In the morning, she was the girl from Yuexi, and in the evening, she was the concubine of Wu Palace. How can a cheap day be different from others? Only when you come to a noble place can you realize how rare it is.
Invite people to be pretty, but don’t wear robes. Your pampering improves your coquettishness, and your pity has no right or wrong.
At that time, it was impossible to go home in the same car as Huan Sha was accompanying me. Thank you to the neighbor next door, and imitate Ankexi.
The Song of Everlasting Regret by Bai Juyi The Emperor of the Han Dynasty was obsessed with beauty and wanted to overwhelm the country. He couldn’t get it from Yu Yu for many years. There is a daughter in the Yang family who has just grown up. She is raised in a boudoir and no one knows her.
It’s hard to give up on natural beauty, and once you choose it, you will be on the side of the king. Looking back and smiling, the sixth palace has no color.
In the cold spring, bathe in Huaqing Pool, and the hot spring water will wash away the fat. The waiter helped her weakly, and it was the beginning of her new grace.
The flowers on the temples are swaying with golden steps, and the hibiscus tent warms the spring night. The spring night is short and the sun is high, and from now on the king will not go to court early.
There is no leisure for Cheng Huan to serve banquets, and he spends all his time traveling from spring to night. There are three thousand beauties in the harem, and three thousand people love her.
The golden house is made up to serve as a charming servant at night, and the jade house is drunk and spring after the banquet. Sisters and brothers are all from the earth, poor and glorious.
This makes the hearts of parents all over the world not to be reborn as boys but as girls. The blue clouds are rising from the heights of Li Palace, and the wind of fairy music can be heard everywhere.
Slow singing, dancing and dancing on silk and bamboo, the emperor could not see enough. Yuyang's flying dragon stirs the earth, shocking the colorful clothes and feathers.
Smoke and dust arose from the Jiuchong City Tower, and thousands of horses rode southwest. The green flowers swayed and stopped, more than a hundred miles west of the capital.
The Sixth Army had no choice but to turn around and die in front of the horse. There is no one to collect the flowers and leaves on the ground, and the green buds and jade are scratching their heads.
The king hid his face and could not be saved. Looking back, blood and tears flowed. The yellow leaves are scattered in the wind, and the clouds linger in the sword pavilion.
There are few people walking at the foot of Mount Emei, and the flags are dull and the sun is thin. The water of the Shu River is green, the mountains of Shu are green, and the Holy Lord loves each other day and night.
Seeing the moon in the palace makes me sad, and hearing the sound of heartbroken bells in the rain at night. The sky spins and the earth turns back to Long Yu. He hesitates and cannot go.
In the soil at the foot of Mawei slope, there is no place where Yu Yan died. The monarch and his ministers looked after each other with all their clothes on, and looked eastward at the capital gate to return on horseback.
When I return, the ponds and gardens are all the same, with Taiye hibiscus and young willows. Hibiscus is like a face and willows are like eyebrows, how can I not shed tears about this?
The peach and plum blossoms bloom in the spring breeze, and the sycamore leaves fall in the autumn rain. There are many autumn grasses in the south of the West Palace, and the fallen leaves are full of red leaves that are not swept away.
The disciples in Liyuan have new white hair, and the prisoner Qing'e in Jiaofang is old. The fireflies in the evening palace are quietly thinking, and the solitary lamp has been used up before they can fall asleep.
The long night begins with bells and drums, and the stars are about to dawn. The mandarin duck tiles are frosty and the flowers are heavy, and the emerald quilt is cold. Who cares about it?
After so many years of separation between life and death, my soul never came to sleep. Linqiong Taoist priests from Hongdu can reach the soul with their sincerity.
In order to appreciate the king's thoughts, he taught the alchemists to search diligently. Empty and control the energy, it rushes like electricity, ascending to heaven and earth to seek for everything.
The blue sky above and the yellow spring below are nowhere to be seen. Suddenly I heard that there was a fairy mountain on the sea. The mountain was in the ethereal place.
The exquisite pavilion is filled with five clouds, among which there are many fairies. One of them has a character called Tai Zhen, and his skin and appearance are all mixed.
Knock on the jade in the west chamber of the Golden Palace, and if you turn to Xiaoyu, you will be rewarded with double success. Hearing that the Emperor of Han Dynasty envoys, the dream soul in Jiuhua tent is frightened.
Wandering around while holding clothes and pushing pillows, the silver screen of beads and foil spreads out. The hair on the temples is half fresh and sleeping, and the flower crown is not neat when I come out of the hall.
The wind blows and the fairy mantle is fluttering, just like the dancing of colorful clothes and feathers. The jade face is lonely and full of tears, and a branch of pear blossom brings rain in spring.
Looking at the king with affection, his voice and appearance are blurry. Love is overwhelming in Zhaoyang Palace, and the sun and moon are long in Penglai Palace.
Turning back and looking down at the world, Chang'an is nowhere to be seen, dust and mist are visible. But the old things show deep affection, and the rhinestone alloy hairpin is sent to the future.
Leave one strand of the hairpin to form a fan, break the gold hairpin into two halves. But the teaching heart is as strong as gold, and we will meet in heaven and on earth.
I sent my farewell message again with sincerity, in which I vowed to know each other. On July 7th, in the Hall of Eternal Life, no one was whispering in the middle of the night.
In the sky, I wish to be a winged bird, and on earth, I wish to be a twig. As time goes by, this hatred will last forever.
Daughters from Luoyang Wang Wei Daughters from Luoyang live opposite each other, so they can be more than fifteen years old. The beloved man rides a horse, and the maid holds a carp on a golden plate.
The painted pavilions and vermilion towers face each other, with red peaches and green willows hanging over the eaves. The seven-incense car was presented with Luo Guan, and the precious fan was welcomed back to Jiuhua Tent.
The madman's wealth lies in his youth, and his arrogance and extravagance make Ji Lun. Self-pitying jasper teaches dance personally, and does not hesitate to hold coral to others.
The dawn in the spring window extinguishes nine tiny fires, and nine tiny pieces of flying flowers? . After the play, when Zeng was unreasonable, he only wore incense and sat there in makeup.
The city is bustling with acquaintances, and they pass by Zhao Li's house day and night. Who pities the Yue girl, whose face is like jade?
Beauty's Journey Du Fu The weather was new on March 3rd, and there were many beauties by the water in Chang'an. The posture is strong, the meaning is distant and true, the texture is fine and the bones are even.
The embroidered clothes shine in the late spring, and the golden peacock and silver unicorn frown. What's on your head, Cui Wei? The leaves droop on the temples.
What do you see behind you, the beads weighing down your waist? Stable and well-proportioned. He became a relative of Zhongyun Mujiao and gave him the name Guo and Qin, a great country.
A green cauldron emerges from the purple camel's peak, and plain scales line the crystal plate. The rhinoceros chopsticks are disgusting and have not been cut for a long time, and the luan knife cuts through the empty space.
Huang Menfei? Not moving away from the dust, the royal chefs are constantly sending out eight delicacies. The mournful chanting of flutes and drums evokes the feeling of ghosts and gods, and the guests are miscellaneous? Really need money.
Later, the pommel horse was patrolling, and Dangxuan dismounted and entered Jinyin. The poplars and snow fall, covering the white apples, and the blue birds fly away with their red scarves in their mouths.
Moxibustion on the hands can produce unrivaled heat, so be careful not to get too close to the Prime Minister's anger. Drunk Flower Yin Li Qingzhao The mist is thick and the clouds are full of sorrow. The painting is eternal, and the auspicious brain eliminates the golden beast.
The Double Ninth Festival is here again, with jade pillows and gauze kitchens, and the coolness begins to shine through in the middle of the night. When Dongli drinks wine at dusk, there is a faint fragrance filling his sleeves.
There is no way to lose one's soul. The west wind blows behind the curtain, and people are thinner than yellow flowers. 3. Describe the appearance of ancient women's buns, try to be as detailed as possible
The silver silk is better than the snow, blowing without the wind, carrying bursts of fragrant wind but with wisps of coolness, tied with a lake-colored cold jade crown, The shape is noble, pure and elegant, like snow jade.
★Feixian bun, Lingyun bun★
Most of the Feixian buns have high hairpins on both sides. According to "Zhihuzi" records: "During the reign of Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty, the Queen Mother descended, and all the fairy buns were alienated from the human world. The emperor ordered the palace to follow them and call them Feixian Bun." It was mostly used for fairies and virgin girls.
Lingyun bun is a high-style single servant girl. According to the "Notes on Ancient and Modern China": "After the First Emperor issued an edict, the three concubines combed their hair into a Lingyun bun, the three concubines combed Wangxian's nine-pink bun, and the nine concubines combed their ginseng-luan bun." These are all styles of high-level servant girls.
★Feitian Jinjie, the hanging servant girls are tied into small buns★
"Feitian Jinjie" has three servant girls tied at the top, standing straight up. According to "Five Elements of the Song Dynasty" records: "In the sixth year of Emperor Wen's Yuanjia period, folk women would have their hair tied in three parts and pull it straight up from their hair, which was called flying to the sky." The ancient "Hundred Flowers" hairstyle also belongs to this type.
The hairstyle of the servant girl with a bun in a bun is mostly a hair style worn by virgin girls. The hair is divided into strands and tied at the top of the bun. There is no need to use a support to let it hang down naturally. The tail is tied and the bun is tied at the top. On the shoulder, also known as swallowtail. According to the "Guo Xian Jia You" records: "Emperor Ming of the Han Dynasty ordered the palace people to comb hundreds of flowers into a bun." In the Tang Dynasty, it was often used as a symbol of virgin hair style.
Twisting
The twisting braiding method is to divide the hair into several strands, twist the hair like a twist, and tie it on the top of the head or on both sides. This hairstyle is flexible and swivels, which is very conducive to beautiful appearance. According to "Cailan Magazine": "After Empress Zhen entered the Wei Palace, there was a green snake in the palace. Every day after dressing up, she would tie a bun in a bun. The shape was different from the back to the front. It was a bun because of the effect, so the back bun was done every day. The hair style is different from day to day, and is called the "spirit snake bun." Such as the fairies in the "Eighty-seven Immortals Picture Scroll", and the pictures of ladies with fans by Zhou Fang in the Tang Dynasty also belong to this type of hairstyle. Twisting changes generally include side twisting, cross twisting, overlapping twisting and other forms.
★Suiyun bun, Lingxu bun★
"Suiyun bun" is similar to a side twist, and the bun looks like it is rolling with the clouds. According to the "Guo Xian Jia You" record: "Chen Gong combs the hair into a bun with clouds." This hairstyle is lively and lively, and is quite popular among ladies.
"Lingxu Bun" is a cross-twisted bun, with the buns intersecting and twisting, and suspended on the top. According to the "Notes on Ancient and Modern China": "In the Sui Dynasty, there were Lingxu bun and Xiangyun bun." This hairstyle is like a cloud coiled back, with Lingtu on the top, shaking without falling off.
Chapter 89 of "Dream of Red Mansions":
But Daiyu was wearing a small moon-white embroidered fur coat and a silver rat waistcoat; she was wearing a bun with Changyun on her head. , there is a red gold hairpin with no flowers; a Yang Fei color embroidered cotton skirt is tied under the waist.
4. Are there any poems or brief introductions describing the costumes of the Sui and Tang Dynasties?
Clothing culture of the Sui and Tang Dynasties
Clothing: basically the gains and losses of Chinese clothes and crowns and the old systems of the Wei and Jin Dynasties. According to the "Old Book of Tang, Yufu Zhi" and "New Book of Tang·Chefu Zhi", there are fourteen types of imperial crowns: Da Qiu Mian, Gun Mian, (Immortal Bird) Mian, Chuan Mian, Xiu Mian and Xuan Mian. , Tongtian crown, Zhenbu crown, Wu Bian, Bianfu, black turban, white gauze hat, plain turban, white (turban combination). Its shape and crown-wearing period are detailed in two "Tang Shu". The difference from the previous period is that the emperor must wear various crowns and scarves under different circumstances; on the other hand, in addition to the large fur crowns, ministers can also wear various crowns separately. That is, the first rank wears a gun mian, the second rank wears a (bird) mian, the third rank wears a xiang mian, the fourth rank wears an embroidered mian, the fifth rank wears a xuan mian, civil servants of the sixth rank and below and nine ranks and above all wear a silk hat during sacrifices. Jue Bian. Wu Bian is worn by military attachés or as martial dancers before His Majesty when attending court. Bianfu is worn by ninth-rank civil servants when doing business.
The pattern and color of the clothes are determined by the time when the emperor wears his crown, that is, when the emperor wears his crown, that is, when he goes to the temple, when he returns to the temple, when he returns, when he sends generals, when he arrives, when he wears the clothes, when he accepts the queen, when he receives congratulations on the first day, and when he comes. For example, during the ceremony of paying homage to the prince and so on: it is blue clothes and heather clothes. Paint the sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons, Chinese insects, fire, Zong Yi and other eight chapters on the clothes, embroider the algae, pink rice, 黼, and 黼 on the clothes, and finally make twelve chapters. This is the so-called legal style of dragon robe.
The uniforms of the ministers are also blue robes and Shang. Take for example the third-rank prime ministers and ministers under the sect of Shizhong, Zhongshu and Tongzhongshu: there are five chapters in the official document, three chapters of Zong Yi, Zao and Fenmi are painted on the clothes, and two chapters are embroidered on the clothes, such as embroidered and embroidered. Purple ribbon, gold and silver leather bag, gold-decorated sword, green jade pendant, red socks, and red morning. The size of the official rank is entirely determined by the number of badges and ornaments. In terms of chapters: the first grade has nine chapters, the second grade has seven chapters, the third grade has five chapters, the fourth grade has three chapters, and the fifth grade has one chapter, which is the so-called "Zhangfu". There are no more chapters for those below the fifth rank. The bean clothes worn are made of leather and generally black gauze. Therefore, there is the saying of Wu Sha Mao.
Starting from Emperor Wen of the Sui Dynasty, ordinary clothes other than formal official uniforms were worn by ocher-yellow embroidered robes, black gauze hats, and Liuhe boots. They were worn by noble ministers. Only the emperor wore twelve rings on his belt to mark the occasion. the difference. In the Tang Dynasty, after many changes, it was finally stipulated that the third-grade clothes were purple, with thirteen gold and jade belts (ornaments on the belt); the fourth-rank clothes were scarlet, with eleven gold belts; the fifth-rank clothes were light crimson, with gold belts. Ten shackles; the sixth rank wears dark green, the seventh rank wears light green, both have silver belts and nine shackles; the eighth rank wears dark green, and the ninth rank wears light green, both wear malachite (malachite); small officials and common people who have not entered the mainstream, wear Yellow clothes, seven copper and iron belts. Also, the scholars wear pleated shirts, while the common people wear white clothes. Outside the square, he is wearing a black robe and a yellow crown. Because ordinary people without rank wear yellow and white, so in the legends of the Tang Dynasty, chivalrous people wear yellow shirts. During the battle between Tang Dynasty and Gaoli'an City, Taizong and Xu Jingzong climbed up to watch the battle. They saw a man wearing white clothes and holding two halberds. He was going forward and summoned him. It was Xue Rengui. Suzong and Li Mi also rode together to march through the camp. People who saw it from a distance said: "The yellow clothes are saints, and the white clothes are mountain people."
In the Tang Dynasty, fish talismans were used to control the officials entering and leaving the palace. The door thought it was a verification, and later changed it to a turtle talisman, and then to a fish talisman. Gold fish and gold turtles are worn for the third grade and above, silver turtles or silver fish are worn for the fourth grade, and copper turtles and copper fish are worn for the fifth grade. Therefore, Li Shangyin's poem "Weiyou" says: "Marrying a golden son-in-law for no reason, and living up to the promise of a fragrant quilt." Bai Juyi's poem "Taking Off the Thorns of History Fei": "There is no such charming and infatuated three-year-old girl, wailing around her waist and asking for silver fish." Luo Zhenyu's "Historical Dynasties" The Catalog of Talisman Plates still contains actual bronze fish and turtles from the Tang Dynasty.
Regarding women's clothing, the queens and concubines all have their own uniforms, which are detailed in the old and new "Book of Tang" Records of Cars and Clothes and Records of Public Service. The married woman's ceremonial uniform is "Zhai Yi". Zhai is a pheasant (a long-tailed pheasant). It is made of green clothes with Zhai hair woven and embroidered on it, so it is called "Zhai Yi". It is divided into nine grades according to the nine grades and is a formal legal uniform. The second is the "hairpin ceremonial dress", which is graded according to the number of mother-of-pearl appliqués. A first-grade lady has nine darts, a second-grade lady has eight darts, a third-grade lady has seven darts, a fourth-grade lady has six darts, and a fifth-grade lady has five darts. The wives of officials below the sixth rank and up to the ninth rank wear long-sleeved robes. A woman's casual clothes should be of the same color as her husband's. Du Fu's "Beautiful People's Journey": "Embroidered Luo clothes shine in the late spring, and golden peacocks and silver unicorns are frowning." He also said: "Beads press the waist (waistband) to stabilize the body." The waist (waistband) is a woman's inner skirt, and Japanese women's The kimono is still called "waist roll" (koshimaki) because of this. It can be seen that the makeup worn by women in daily life is not limited to the legal clothes.
Women’s buns follow the ancient style, but are innovative and eclectic. However, the hairstyle in the "Lady Picture" painted by Zhou Fang is exactly the same as the "mazu-mazuge" worn by Japanese married women. It may be the most popular basic hairstyle, so it has been absorbed by Japan and preserved to this day. . There is also a palace makeup called "Pingsheng", the style is no longer passed down. As the name suggests, it may be a kind of high bun. Jewelry such as hairpins, hairpins, and hairpins, there is also a kind of "step shake". Wear it on your bun and sway tremblingly when you walk. Bai Juyi's "Song of Everlasting Sorrow" said: "The clouds and temples are beautiful and golden steps are shaking", that's it. In spring, paper is folded into a square or a bunch of objects and decorated on the head, which is called "Fang Sheng", also known as "Chun Sheng". In addition to red makeup for women, including applying powder, applying makeup, drawing eyebrows, dotting lips and decals, there is also "plum makeup". It is said that Princess Shouyang was lying drunk under the plum blossoms, and the plum blossoms fell on her forehead, so she made this makeup. Women in the Tang Dynasty had not yet had their feet bound. For an exhibition, see Zhou Fang's "Pictures of Ladies."