I am a native of Dan'er, a parasite in Western Shu Prefecture. To suddenly cross the sea, such as traveling far away.
In the dream of life and death, there is no inferiority or superiority among the three. I know you won’t see me again. If you want to go, stay less.
In 1100 AD, Su Dongpo, who was pardoned, was about to leave the island and return to the north. He was filled with emotion and wrote the song "Farewell to the People of Hainan" to express his infinite nostalgia and affection for this place of exile. Feeling reluctant to leave his friend, he even called Danzhou, Hainan his hometown from the bottom of his heart.
This year was the third year after Su Dongpo was demoted to Hainan.
In the same year, Su Dongpo passed away, and before his death he wrote the last words "Ask you about your life achievements, Huangzhou, Huizhou and Danzhou".
Su Dongpo has been well known to people for a thousand years, and his deeds and poems are also well known, but I found that many articles did not write about his life in Huizhou and Hainan.
Hainan, this rising tropical island, welcomes tens of thousands of Chinese and foreign tourists every year to vacation and travel here. The beautiful natural scenery comforts the visitors, and the blue sea water washes away the tired souls. In the eyes of the world, this is like a holiday paradise.
In the Song Dynasty, which traveled through thousands of years to 1097 AD, Hainan was still an uncivilized and barbaric land. Just being displaced to the ends of the earth was enough to make people feel frightened. Being demoted to Hainan is a punishment second only to the death penalty. Whether it is life or death is unknown.
At this time, Su Dongpo was exiled to Huizhou. In his later years, his life was not like when he used to live in Huangzhou. "Who said that life will never be short? The water in front of the door can still flow to the west. Don't sing the yellow chicken with white hair." Wandering; there is no longer the heroic and passionate feeling when traveling to Huangzhou, "The river goes eastward, the waves are swept away, and the romantic figures of the ages"...
In Huizhou, it is more of "This life and this night will not last long." "Where can I see the bright moon next year?" The sigh and confusion. But there is also the optimism and open-mindedness of "eating 300 lychees a day and never giving up to being a Lingnan native". Su Dongpo, who was enjoying hardships, thought he could live in peace in Huizhou for his later years, but his political opponents did not relax their persecution of him.
One day, Su Dongpo became very popular in poetry and wrote a short poem "Zongbi": "The white-headed slump is covered with frost and wind, and the rattan bed in the small pavilion has a sick look. It is reported that Mr. Spring sleeps beautifully, and the Taoist slaps five "Watching the clock." It is written about an old man with white hair lying on a wicker chair and sleeping soundly in the spring breeze, while listening to the monks ringing the bells in the temple behind the house.
As a result, as soon as this poem came out, the government and the public were shocked. After Su Dongpo's political enemy, Prime Minister Zhang Dun, found out about it, he felt that Su Dongpo was still living so comfortably and happily after being demoted to Huizhou. He became very angry and immediately reported to Song Zhezong, saying that Su Dongpo He wrote poems to satirize the government and asked to be demoted to Hainan again. So the banishment order was issued again, and Su Dongpo, in his sixties, was demoted to Danzhou, Hainan.
As a last resort, Su Dongpo had to set off from Huizhou to Danzhou. When he arrived in Wuzhou, Su Dongpo learned through the oral descriptions of local people that his younger brother Su Che, who had been demoted to the Leizhou Peninsula, passed by here, so he wrote the poem "Whoever made the geographical records in his years will be my hometown thousands of miles away in Hainan" and sent people to catch up with him. After the brothers met in Tengzhou, they traveled to Leizhou Peninsula together. At that time, the prefect of Leizhou warmly received the Su Dongpo brothers. The two stayed for a few days, but they did not expect that this would be the last time the brothers met.
Crossing the sea meant separation between life and death. When Su Dongpo was in Huizhou, he decided not to let his family accompany him. In the end, only his youngest son Su Guo accompanied him to Hainan.
At the time of parting, Su Dongpo was disheartened about Hainan and was even ready to die. He wrote in a letter to a friend: An old man fell into poverty with no hope of recovery. Chun and his eldest son said goodbye, and the funeral arrangements have been taken care of. Now when I arrive in Hainan, the first thing I do is make a coffin, and the second thing I do is make a tomb. But he left his hand sparsely with his disciples, and when he died, he was buried overseas. He did not hold the coffin when he was alive, and he did not support the coffin when he died. This was also the family tradition of Dongpo.
On June 11th of this year, Su Dongpo, Su Guo and a few soldiers boarded the ship. Although the voyage was short and the weather was clear, the outline of the mountains on the island stood on the horizon, and the sea was vast. For tourists who visit the island now, they may be excited to take pictures of the beautiful scenery on the sea, but at this moment, Su Dongpo is "dazzled" and has no joy at all.
Some people say, "Unfortunately in Dongpo, Hainan is lucky." Thousands of years ago, it was this tropical resort paradise in the eyes of the world that welcomed Su Dongpo, who was uncertain about his life or death after crossing the sea. From then on, Hainan embraced Su Dongpo, and the cultural process of Hainan swept away the gloom and accepted the most dazzling light of the literary world of the Northern Song Dynasty.
This may be fate. The great writer and poet Su Dongpo was destined to have an indissoluble bond with Hainan.
Su Dongpo was exiled to Hainan as a demoted official, with the title of Qiongzhou Biejia on his head, but in fact he had no real power. Not only that, the political opponents at that time also imposed three prohibitions on Su Dongpo: he was not allowed to eat official food, he was not allowed to live in official residences, and he was not allowed to sign official documents.
However, as soon as he arrived in Danzhou, he was warmly welcomed and entertained by the local people and Zhang Zhong, the Changhua military envoy. Zhang Zhong risked his life and was dismissed from office, and took Su Dongpo and Su Guo to live in the official residence, and entertained them with delicious food and wine every day. Zhang Zhong and Su Guo played chess all day long, while Su Dongpo watched the game. Sometimes, Zhang Zhong also asked Su Dongpo for official advice, which brought great comfort to Su Dongpo's painful heart.
The so-called official residence, as recorded in "The Biography of Su Dongpo", was actually just a small old house. When the autumn rain came, the roof leaked, and Su Dongpo had to move his bed from east to west at night. Zhang Zhong once used public funds to repair it.
"The weather in Lingnan is humid and steamy, but Hainan is even worse." At that time, Hainan Island was humid and stuffy in summer, foggy in winter, rainy in autumn, and everything was moldy. Su Dongpo once saw many termites dying on his bedpost. Such a living environment was difficult enough, but political opponents refused to let Su Dongpo go.
When Dong Bi from Hunan promoted Su Dongpo to visit Guangxi, he heard that Zhang Zhong gave Su Dongpo an official residence and entertained him warmly. He immediately sent an envoy across the sea, dismissed Zhang Zhong from his official position, and expelled Su Dongpo and his son. Leave the official residence. After being expelled from the official residence, Su Dongpo "had no meat to eat, no medicine for his illness, no room to live in, no friends to go out, no charcoal in winter, and no cold spring in summer", and his life was in trouble.
Most of Su Dongpo's days in Hainan were difficult. He himself said that when he was relegated to Hainan, in order to provide food and clothing, he sold out all his wine vessels, leaving only a beautifully crafted lotus leaf cup for his own entertainment.
In fact, Su Dongpo was so famous at the time that he was demoted to Hainan. The people also knew this bachelor. As long as he sold one calligraphy and painting work, he could live a better life without selling out. Wine vessel. However, at that time, Hainan was still an uncivilized barbarian land, education was very backward, and the cultural level of the people was not high. Even if Su Dongpo sold calligraphy and paintings, no one knew how to appreciate and pay for them.
The people in Danzhou were too lazy to farm and relied on hunting for a living. Grain, cloth, salt, pickles, etc. were all shipped from the mainland, and even rice was imported from the mainland. The locals only eat taro and drink plain water as meals. In winter, when the rice ships could not reach Hainan, Su Dongpo had to rely on taro and white water to survive.
Su Dongpo was not only a great scholar and a great writer, not only a man of many talents, but also an optimist whose nature was hard to change.
When Su Dongpo first arrived in Danzhou, he felt that he had arrived in an inhumane place. The blow of being demoted again in his later years and the huge contrast between Hainan's nature and humanity made Su Dongpo feel very depressed, surrounded by boundless loneliness and loneliness. However, if this depression and pain were allowed to continue forever, then he would no longer be Su Dongpo, and he quickly made adjustments.
Su Dongpo sang harmony with the great hermit Tao Yuanming, exchanged letters with his younger brother Su Che across the Taiwan Strait, often wandered around temples, Taoist temples and village streets, and interacted with local people. His mind gradually calmed down, and he slowly The place blends into the local environment and gets out of the trough of the soul. Although he still couldn't get rid of the hardships of life at times in Danzhou and his mood fluctuated, he generally spent his time in a detached and happy mental state.
Su Dongpo once said that he "could accompany the Jade Emperor in high places, and beggar children in Beitian Court in low places." There was no one in the world who was not a good person. He hangs out with local scholars, village women and ordinary people, and there is no distinction between them. When chatting with them, he often sat on the floor and listened to them.
He often wanders around with Wuzui, a big Hainanese dog. Under the betel nut tree, Su Dongpo chatted freely with the peasants. They were so impressed by the scholar's erudition that Su Dongpo could only say, "I don't know what to say." Su Dongpo said: Let's talk about ghosts then. Tell me some ghost stories! Those people didn't know any interesting ghost stories, so Su Dongpo said: It doesn't matter, just tell them what you heard.
Once when Su Dongpo was wandering in the countryside, he met an old woman walking in the fields with a big ladle on her back. Su Dongpo asked: How is the world? The old woman replied: Everything in the world is like a spring dream. Su Dongpo thought she didn't hear clearly, so he repeated: How is the world? The old woman replied again: Hanlin wealth and honor, a dream of love! After hearing this, Su Dongpo admired the old woman very much and felt that he was not as good as her.
Another time, Su Dongpo saw a young Li woman chewing betel nuts and carrying a bamboo basket to deliver food to her husband who was working in the fields. He chanted:
Her hair is fluffy and her mouth is black. Wu, sends food to Mr. Tian every day.
When the women of the Li family saw Su Dongpo reciting poems, they immediately spoke up and said:
Right and wrong are all because of talking too much. Remember that the king demoted you.
Su Dongpo was impressed by the Hainan woman again.
Su Dongpo's material life in Hainan was very poor, but his life became more and more cheerful. Yu Qiuyu wrote in "Stories from the End of the World": Su Dongpo was sick and his face turned red after drinking a few sips of wine. The children thought he had rejuvenated.
Sometimes there was no wine or rice, and the ship from the mainland had not arrived for a long time. He would count on his fingers when the landlord would sacrifice the stove and prepare to have a delicious meal at his place. He has several friends named Li who often visit each other. When the weather is good, he likes to stand in front of his friends' houses and watch the passers-by. When it rains, he borrows local coconut hats and wooden clogs and wears them home.
Along the way, women and children laughed at his strange appearance, and even the dogs barked at him. He then asked the women, children and dogs: "Are you laughing at me for looking weird?" Call me weird? Sometimes he would be half-drunk and would go to visit friends in a daze, and the children would greet them with green onion leaves. He only remembered that his residence was to the west of the cowshed, and he would look for cow dung and touch it home.
Spring is here, and the scene is even more beautiful. Su Dongpo, who has not written lyrics for a long time, can't help humming another poem of "Magnolia with Reduced Words": Spring ox and spring stick, infinite scenery comes to the sea. Make the beggar work in spring and dye it pink like flesh. Spring banners win the victory of spring, and a spring breeze blows to wake them up. Unlike the end of the world, the poplar flowers rolled up are like snowflakes.
Who would have thought that this rhythm of irrepressible joy could come from the heart of an old demoted official?
In 1100 AD, the government changed, and the veteran Yuanyou was pardoned. On June 20, Su Dongpo was also pardoned and returned north.
When he and his son Su Guo left Danzhou, many local people carried drinks and dry food to see them off. It was not until Su Dongpo and Su Guo boarded the boat at the port of Chengmai Old City and disappeared in the sea that the common people turned around and went back in tears.
When saying goodbye, Su Dongpo left his last poem in Hainan in Chengmai, "Crossing the Sea on June 20th":
The third watch of the fight turns to the third watch, and the bitter rain It will be clear all day long.
Who embellishes the scattered clouds and the bright moon, making the sky and sea clear and clear.
When I was free, Lu Sou took advantage of his thoughts and had a rough idea of ??the music played by Xuanyuan.
I don’t hate the nine deaths in the Southern Wilderness. I am here to travel through the wonders of my life.
It expresses the joy of being pardoned and returning to the north and the reluctance to leave Hainan.
Su Dongpo was upright throughout his life, and became more and more difficult as he got older. He was demoted to Hainan in his later years. He originally thought that he would die overseas, but unexpectedly he met the Hainan people who loved him. It is no wonder that before his death, he said, "Ask you about your life achievements, Huang Zhou Huizhou Danzhou", comparing Danzhou, which is isolated overseas, with Huangzhou and Huizhou, expressing his sincere gratitude.
Su Dongpo regarded the three relegated places of Huangzhou, Huizhou and Danzhou as his achievements. In fact, his mood was very complicated, and he said it in a self-deprecating tone.
Su Dongpo had a huge influence on Hainan culture and set a precedent for Hainan cultural education. Before Su Dongpo came to Hainan, Hainan had not produced a real scholar. After he came to Hainan, he trained Jiang Tangzuo, the first scholar in Hainan, and Fu Que, the first scholar in Hainan. Since then, Hainanese have repeatedly achieved success in the imperial examinations. According to statistics, through the Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties, Hainan Province has produced 767 civil servants and 97 Jinshi.
This cannot but be attributed to Su Dongpo’s great contribution to Hainan education. In Hainan's historical records, the people of Hainan have always remembered Su Dongpo's contribution to Hainan education. "Qiongtai Chronicles" records: Song Su Wen Gong was relegated to Dan'er, and he gave lectures on Taoism, education and culture flourished day by day, and the prosperity of Qiongzhou's humanities was actually initiated by Gong Su. People in Hainan spoke highly of Su Dongpo, which shows that Su Dongpo's influence and contribution to local culture and education after his demotion were real and objective.
The three years in Danzhou, Hainan were the period when Su Dongpo suffered the most in life, but it was also the peak period of his literary creation. It was also the time when his life spirit was sublimated to the extreme and he gained a philosophical understanding of the meaning of life. the most profound period.
During this period, with the help of Su Guo, he compiled his miscellaneous notes and compiled them into "Dongpo Zhilin". He also completed the annotations on Shangshu. According to statistics, Su Dongpo wrote more than 130 poems in Hainan, including 15 of his Hetao poems.
It can be seen that the wild atmosphere outside the mountains did not compromise Su Dongpo's talent and spirituality. On the contrary, the repeated hardships were the best training for his poetry, which finally turned into the brilliance of his words.