Confucius said, "I can't get tired of eating delicious food." Confucius said that the thinner the sashimi is cut, the better it tastes. You see what Xin Qiji wrote in the Song Dynasty, "Don't say that the bass is satisfactory, the west wind is exhausted, and the eagle returns."
In other words, when the autumn wind comes, the bass should eat sashimi. I quit my job to eat sashimi. But when we look at the ancient characters, we don't know that "Ai" is sashimi, and the Japanese are completely from China.
Learn from the past and keep it up. What about us? Throw it away, throw it away, now everyone doesn't know what the word means. Why do you want mustard for sashimi? Sashimi is cold and cloudy.
Yes, it's hard to digest. We use mustard for balance, so that we won't have diarrhea after eating it. Is mustard made in Japan? Mustard is not made in Japan, but in China.
When eating sashimi, you can see that there is a green leaf under each sashimi, called perilla leaf. According to Compendium of Materia Medica, Perilla frutescens is produced in China, which can remove blood stasis and detoxify. After eating fish and shrimp, you have a stomachache, allergies, vomiting and diarrhea, and quickly boil perilla leaf water to drink. The main components of Huoxiang Zhengqi Water that we often take are: Huoxiang, Angelica dahurica and Perilla frutescens. This perilla leaf should be wrapped in sashimi and dipped in mustard, which is not enough. There is also a kind of red soaked ginger, which is made of vinegar and sugar soaked ginger. What does Ginger do? Everyone knows that warming your stomach makes you sick. Drink some ginger soup and it will melt There is white silk in that plate of sashimi. Do you know what silk it is? What silk? It's white radish, which is called Dagen in Japan and white radish in China. These four kinds of Chinese medicines for clearing away heat and resolving food stagnation, eaten together with sashimi, are the civilization of Chinese medicine dietotherapy. The Japanese kept this tradition intact.
The author also verified that the Japanese came to China to study in autumn. Because we don't dip mustard in sashimi in spring, there was no mustard at that time. We dipped in onions and shallots. In addition, we have to drink a kind of tea when we eat sashimi, which is called Xuanmi tea. This kind of tea is a kind of green tea, but green tea is cold, so we fry it with rice until it is brown, which is the food civilization in Tang and Song Dynasties.
Since the Han and Wei Dynasties, there have been more and more records of sashimi consumption. There is a saying in the Eastern Han Dynasty, "Just ask for sake and carry a jade pot with a silk rope." . For me, what I want is a rare dish, silver carp in golden plate (Yu Linlang, Xin Yannian). In addition, the most famous dish in Jia Sixie's Book of Qi Yao Min in the Northern Wei Dynasty was called "Golden Dumplings, Jade Dumplings". Jia Sixie described that seven ingredients were used: garlic, ginger, salt, Bai Mei, orange peel, cooked chestnut meat and japonica rice with sashimi (Jin jiaozi).
Shuo Wen Jie Zi says: Easy, finely cut the meat. Later, the word "silver carp" appeared, probably to distinguish fish fillets from other pieces of meat. But these two words are often confused. Look up the annotation of the word "silver carp" in Modern Chinese Dictionary, which is just the name of a fish, not to mention that the word "silver carp" used to refer to sashimi in ancient literature.
Li Bai and Du Fu love sashimi.
In the Tang Dynasty, the consumption of sashimi became more and more popular. The literature in Li Bai's poem "There are petty officials in Lu, fighting for wine and fish and giving up surplus grain to wanderers, leaving poems because of drinking silver carp" is the most touching. In the sixth year of Tang Tianbao (AD 747), Li Bai passed by Zhongdu (now Wenshang County, Shandong Province), and a small official named Feng came to visit the poet with Lu wine and two fishtails. Li Bai was moved to use the knife himself, without making a toast, and gave a poem when he left:
Lu wine is like a tiger's spirit, warm fish and purple brocade.
Li Hao is very handsome. He gave it to a distant person with his hand.
Here comes the wine. I'll pour it. I'll come. Don't.
Double cheeks, sipping fins, licking silver plates, trying to fly away.
Tiger blows a few frosty leaves, and the red muscle flowers are white.
Let's cook a meal for you, get drunk, and then get back on the horse with a golden whip.
In the winter of the first year of Gan Yuan (AD 758), the poet Du Fu also wrote a poem related to eating fish and silver carp, "Jixiang Jiang Qi Shaofu gave a banquet in Long song", which was slightly longer and was excerpted from "Eating Fish and Silver Carp Poetry":
It is difficult to get a frozen river without fishing, so cutting ice may invade Hebo Palace.
Jiao Ren, a fish, washed the fish and sharpened the knife, making the fish jealous.
The snow falls silently and finely, and the shallots have been chopped with bones.
I advise my stomach to be ashamed of being young.
The anvil fell, the white paper was wet, the chopsticks were put down, and the gold plate was empty.
Compared with Li Bai's and Du Fu's poems, the process of making sashimi is described in more detail. The poem says that the live fish that make sashimi comes from glaciers, and the method of fishing is to cut and slice quickly. Silver carp must be padded with white paper to absorb water.
In addition, when Liu Yao, a native of Xiongxian County, Hebei Province, was an official in Lingnan (Guangdong Province), the words "Fish fillets are eaten raw in Lingnan area" were also included in "Different Records of Ridge Table" (Volume 2):
Like a white fish, the body is slightly shorter and the tail is not sunken. There are many fish in Qingyuan River, so it is impossible to cover the sea. There are many rich people, but they are not fishy or beautiful, and there are too many kinds of fish.
Sashimi was popular in Kaifeng in Song Dynasty.
In the Song Dynasty, an important book describing the capital of the Northern Song Dynasty, Dream of China in Tokyo, described the prosperous life of the capital of the Song Dynasty in great detail. Dream of Tokyo also vividly records people eating sashimi during festivals:
On March 1 day, Jin Ming Pool and Joan Lin Yuan opened outside Shuntianmen in the west of the state ... There are no houses on the west side of the pool, but there are few tourists and many fishermen. You must buy the brand of the pool garden. Only fishing is allowed. Tourists get fish and buy it at twice the price. The perfume bottle is recommended by the first month, and it tastes good.
Diet on the pool: clear water rice, cold water mung beans, silver carp and herring.
The author of A Dream in Tokyo is Mr. Meng. He said that he traveled with his father since childhood and lived in the west of Kaifeng during the Chongning period. After the disaster of Jingkang, Mr. Meng lived in seclusion in the south of the Yangtze River, wrote "Dream of China in Tokyo" and missed the prosperity of the old capital. Jinmingchi was a royal garden in the Northern Song Dynasty. Song Huizong built a temple by the pool and became a royal hot spring resort.
Between the lines of Mr. Meng, we can imagine the intoxicated appearance of Song people when they tasted silver carp while tasting wine by the pool. This is a record of eating raw fish in Kaifeng, Henan. Eating sashimi in Song Dynasty has a very elegant cultural connotation. (The Japanese have inherited things that appeal to both refined and popular tastes, as well as the scores of elegant music and Qiuci music in Han and Tang Dynasties, so many ancient Japanese songs have quite Han and Tang styles: Memory of the Forbidden City and Painted Skin. )
In the Southern Song Dynasty, there was also a local chronicle "Jiatai Wu Xingzhi" (written by Tan Chuan in the Song Dynasty), which recorded in more detail how to eat sashimi in Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces in the Southern Song Dynasty:
"Wu Jixing" cloud: Tang Zhaode wields a knife and bears an anvil, his wings are in the wind, and his red heald is shining. The busybody sneered: If silver carp is worth Wu, it is a first-class flower shop; if it doesn't meet Wu, it is a vinegar gourd. Jiangdong people call garlic Hu, Su Dongpo said.
It's enough to laugh at Songjiang bass and silver carp. Silver carp is the most popular food in the local area. Every time I meet a guest and get married, Yanji will put this place, which is even more chicken ribs. Dozens of silver carp craftsmen are all Cao, who set up stalls to sell fish in the early morning to see how much to buy.
White, covered with flowers and plants, couples or poems, is extremely beautiful and well done. The so-called golden advice. There is also a skinny soup, each of which is made of bones, which is extremely light and has its own real taste. We each drank a cup of silver carp. medicines and chemical reagents
It is said that everything that can eliminate the meat in the brain is being eaten, so you must drink more of this soup. Changxing is very thin, just like cicada, which is nowhere else.
Xing Wu is the ancient name of Huzhou. Because Xing Wu is located in Taihu Lake, it was renamed Lake in Sui Dynasty.
State. It is mentioned in the quotation that in the Southern Song Dynasty, people in Huzhou put sashimi of various shapes on plates when preparing sashimi, and even put out poems and sentences, just like the art of painting, calligraphy and flower arrangement. It can be seen that sashimi has already broken through one kind as early as the Song Dynasty.
The framework of general diet even has certain cultural connotations. It is also emphasized that the fish slices cut by the chef in Changxing, Huzhou can be thinner than the wings of cicadas, which shows the exquisite swordsmanship.
Huang Zunxian's Record of Japanese Eating Sashimi in the Late Qing Dynasty can reproduce the scene of China people eating silver carp in the Tang and Song Dynasties. For example, Japan pays attention to the knife method when eating sashimi. The fillet is as thin as a cicada's wing, and the pattern before eating silver carp is "loaded".
"Soup soup" is made from fish head and fish tail after eating, and all kinds of practices are almost the same as those contained in the documents of Song and Yuan Dynasties. The difference is that Japanese sashimi eats sea fish, while China mostly eats river fish.
During the Republic of China, Guangzhou published a small cookbook "Delicious Seeking Truth", which contains a kind of "miscellaneous fish fillet": peel the meat with anchovies, slice it on a plate, mix it with cooked oil, warm it with yellow wine when eating, pour it on the fish fillet, and serve it when it is half cooked.
Grid. Dry wine is served with crispy peanuts, fried sesame seeds with meat, scrambled eggs with tea seeds, melon and shredded ginger, and fried noodles, ginger, chrysanthemum pepper powder, white oil and cooked oil. Mix well and be sweet and smooth.
1946, when Mr. Zong Yi Rao compiled "Chaozhou Zhihui", he described that chaozhou people liked to eat raw grilled fish: grilled fish is delicious, it is the best in daily life and sells best, or sliced and seasoned with sauce, which is called raw fish, and it is the favorite of state people.
Today, our raw fish fishermen are not much different from raw fish stalls in Guangzhou or Chaozhou. The difference is that you will pour yellow wine before eating the mixed fish fillets in Guangzhou. However, this practice was ignored in ancient times, and the cultural characteristics and connotation of eating silver carp no longer exist. It can only be said that this is probably the legacy of eating silver carp in the Tang and Song Dynasties.