"I only have Gobi tonight, and I am empty-handed at the end of the grassland. I can't keep a tear when I'm sad. Sister, I don't care about humans tonight, I just want you. -Haizi "Sister, I am in Delingha tonight" "
Haizi's poetic world is undoubtedly romantic and ideal. He said, "I don't want to be a lyric poet", but it brought people more beauty and longing.
Delingha, a very famous place in Qinghai Province, is not only the seat of Haixi state capital, but also a desolate city in the rain described by Haizi.
Some people say that Haizi made Delingha. When he came here, the originally dry city became wet and romantic because of that poem.
It is also because of Haizi that many people were "tricked" into going to Delingha just to see the "beautiful Gobi tonight", but it was just a wasteland. ...
Today, we will tell the story of this highland town and its poets.
Delingha, Mongolian full name is "Aliteng Delingha", which means "golden Yuan Ye", located in the northeast edge of Qaidam Basin.
The name of this town can probably be traced back to AD 1637.
According to legend, at that time, the Khan of Gushi, West Mongolia, led his troops to move from Urumqi, Xinjiang, settled in the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, and established the unified governing body of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau-Heshuo Tekhanate.
After that, Gushi Khan began to seal off the vast grassland around Qinghai Lake to his chin, Taji.
Because he was new here, Bataiji didn't know the grassland he owned, so he sent someone to inspect it.
At this time, it coincides with the golden autumn in August, and the Delingha area is lush with water plants. The golden grassland is surrounded by surrounding mountains, and there are beautiful lakes and lush reeds near the open grassland.
The beautiful scenery immediately fascinated people who came to Delingha to inspect the pasture, so they hurried back to report to Taji.
When Taiji heard this, he couldn't help but say with joy, "God has given us this treasure of the tribe. Let's call this place' Aliteng Delingha', where our king was built."
Since then, this place has a name, which lasted until the early liberation. Later, people called it Delingha for convenience.
In fact, as early as the Western Zhou Dynasty, the western Qiang people were nomadic in this area, and by the beginning of the fourth century AD, they were under the jurisdiction of Tuguhun.
In the early Tang Dynasty (AD 663), Tuguhun was destroyed by the Tubo Dynasty, and Delingha area was under the jurisdiction of the latter. /kloc-after the rise of Mongols in the 0/3rd century, the forces quickly entered the Qaidam area.
The Ming Dynasty was under the jurisdiction of Han Dongwei, and later under the jurisdiction of Mongolian ministries. In the Qing Dynasty, it was under the jurisdiction of North Zuoqi and North Youqi of Qinghai, and the Republic of China was under the jurisdiction of dulan county.
Before liberation, it was just a desolate border town with more than 40 families and more than 300 people.
However, Delingha can be known by Chinese people, not because of Taiji, nor because of its long history and beautiful scenery, but because of Haizi.
On a rainy autumn night more than 30 years ago, Haizi, a 24-year-old young poet, went to Tibet by train alone. When passing through Delingha town, I don't know which nerve touched his long-simmering poetry.
In the poems written by Haizi, he did not praise Delingha's grassland and beautiful plateau scenery, but only recorded a desolate city on a rainy night.
Just eight months later, Haizi committed suicide by lying on the track in the slow lane of the train between Shanhaiguan and Longjiaying, ending his 25-year-old life. There is also a saying about the background of his poem.
Haizi has a crush on a female writer who is twenty years older than him. On a night of pouring rain, he knelt on the ground, folded his hands and waited for the woman writer until dawn the next day. ...
Later, the female writer couldn't stand it and went back to the west. Haizi followed her by train and wrote this poem when she passed Delingha.
Who is the elder sister in this poem? Whether it is Haizi's lover or the embodiment of beauty is unknown.
Delingha was lucky enough to be a poet, which made this small western town famous for the song "Sister, I am in Delingha tonight", and the word "Delingha" became synonymous with love-related sadness.
A few years later, the singer Dao Lang took the desolate northwest wind and followed Haizi's footsteps, and drove to this desolate city in the rain to collect the wind.
But he stayed in Delingha for a day and left in a depressed mood, because his intuition told him that "just like Wang Lao's Dabancheng, the real Delingha has been taken away by Haizi." .
On the way back to Urumqi, Dao Lang looked out of the window.
"The grasslands on the plateau are deserted, and the clouds set off the sadness of the snow-capped mountains. It rained just after Qinghai Lake, and the looming silver light made people's eyes dry ... "Dao Lang thought of Haizi's poem and was inspired by it to write A Night in Delingha, which is not as famous as Haizi's poem.
Dao Lang was able to write this song, perhaps because he and Haizi had the same sad experience, so when he came to this highland town where Haizi had been, his heart must be very bitter.
Today, the name Delingha has become a fascinating "poem and distance". In addition to wonderful stories, there are strange landscapes and unsolved mysteries.
On the Gobi Plateau in the west of Delingha, Crook Lake and Tuosu Lake are two lakes connected by the flow of Bayin River, so they are called "Lover Lake" by local people.
Interestingly, although the difference between the two lakes is nearly one foot, the salt and water are distinct. Tuosu Lake is a saltwater lake, and there is no life and grass around it, while Crook Lake is a freshwater lake, rich in aquatic plants and fish and shrimp.
There is a beautiful plateau legend between these two lakes. A long time ago, there was a pair of congenial childhood friends in the tribe by Bayin River. The young man's name is Tosu, and the girl's name is Luke. According to tribal rules, they must kowtow to the leader before they are allowed to get married.
However, the lascivious boss coveted the girl's beauty, and in the name of testing loyalty, asked Tuosu to take a bag of salt back to a place called Yanze.
Tuosu, who loved salt, went through many hardships and finally failed to get out of the desert Gobi, while Luke, who was infatuated with love, shed tears all the way to the place where the young people rested, and finally died of double suicide.
The place where they died became two lakes, and the waterways in the middle were connected, like lovers' arms hugging each other to death.
Now, 50 kilometers away from Delingha, two lakes, one big and one small, stand quietly together on the Huaitou Tara grassland, as if telling a touching love story to close people.
Compared with the romantic feelings between the two lakes, there is a famous "foreign land site" in Baigong Mountain, northeast of Su Hu, but it is shrouded in mystery.
1996, White, a writer with geological background, came to Dehaling to collect folk songs. He found three irregular triangular caves at the foot of Baigong Mountain, which looked like artificial excavations. There is an iron pipe deep in the cave. Surprisingly, the pipe walls and rocks are natural. Instead of digging holes first and then putting them into hard rocks, the pipes are directly inserted.
Not only that, on the lake beach opposite the hole, there are many iron pipes exposed in the sand, and there are a series of mysterious symbols and unsolved letters on the sand, and some pipes lie in the nearby salt lake, which seems to be deliberately arranged in a certain pattern.
Later, after inspection and analysis, the iron content of these pipes actually reached more than 30%, which means that what was found in the cave was an out-and-out iron pipe.
However, modern industries such as iron pipes have never appeared in Qaidam history. It can be said that the industry in this place is almost blank, and there is no population around here for a long time. The vast Gobi, where did these iron pipes come from?
Even more amazing is that 8% ~ 10% of the elements in the iron pipe can't be found. The implication is that these elements have not been found on earth. They may come from aliens, the deep sea or the center of the earth. ...
Delingha is romantic because of Su Hu and Crook Lake, poetic because of Haizi, and mysterious because of foreign ruins.
This remote town has now become a dazzling pearl in the Qaidam Basin, no longer just desolate in the rain. Bayin River flows slowly, and cypresses on cypress hill are full of vitality.
Source/WeChat official account: self-driving geography of China.
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