Chester is said to be the richest city in England in terms of archaeological and architectural treasures. It was one of the Roman Empire's finest strategic outposts and one of the few walled cities in Britain today. Rachael Lindsay takes us on a tour of her hometown.
Every time I return to my hometown of Chester on the English-Wales border, I find myself transported back to the majestic sandstone ring of Roman walls, the half-timbered buildings of the city center and the tranquil Old Dee Bridge . River Dee.
Brushing my hands on a worn stone in a Roman garden, I was immediately transported back to the 1st century AD and the warm baths framed by this column. Standing in the gravel pit of the Roman amphitheatre, I could hear the roar of the crowd, urging their gladiators to fight to the death. Gazing at the East Gate clock, I wondered about everyone who had done this before me.
Although it masquerades as a pretty residential town near the England-Welsh border, Chester has the ability to transport me back to the most glorious and difficult days of its fascinating 2,000-year history.
Chester began life in the late 70s AD and was one of the three most powerful military camps in the Roman province of Britannia. The Romans were sweeping across Britannia, or the "Land of Tin," building military camps and expanding their empire. From their initial arrival on the beaches of Kent, they pushed northward and needed to establish a base in northwestern Britannia, preferably close to a river so they could move goods to and from the base.
So they built the largest of all the forts built at that time, located next to the River Dee, which they named Deva Victrix - Deva, after the lines that ran along the fort British name for river. and Victrix, after the "Legio XX Valeria Victrix" camp in Deva. Deva Victrix later became the Chester I called home.
The patron saint of Chester is St. Werburgh, who played an important role in monastic reform throughout England
Stroll around the well-preserved Roman walls and stand in the stunning Chester's Roman origins are best understood at the stunning Roman Amphitheater.
Learn about its importance as a medieval city by visiting the flowing River Dee, wandering the remains of its motte-and-bailey castle or strolling along the Rows. To appreciate the extensive restoration and building work carried out during the Victorian era, there is no better example than Chester Cathedral and its elegant East Gate Clock. However, let's start walking around the walls.
The Walls
The Roman walls surrounding the center of Chester remain one of the city's most striking features, forming a ring of sandstone nearly two miles long. Roman centurions, Saxon soldiers and medieval archers have guarded the walls throughout the ages, and famous figures such as Samuel Johnson and John Wesley have walked on the walled walkways since the track was used for recreational purposes in the 18th century AD On the Wander.
As I returned to the Walls today, as well as recalling my days of "running the Wall" with the school running club, each sandstone brick told a story about Chester's former residents - And, of course, there are their enemies.
When the Romans built the fortress of Deva, it was protected by an earthen embankment topped by a wooden palisade and a gate on each side. It’s hard to imagine how impressive the fort’s three-meter-high walls would look to those passing by. But the military fortress soon attracted civilian settlements living in the shadow of the powerful fortress, probably due to the attraction of trading with the Romans. As the years passed, the fort became even more threatening as the ramparts and palisades were rebuilt using locally quarried sandstone to form a strong protective wall.
By AD 410, the Roman army had abandoned their baths, homes and amphitheater at Deva Victrix, marking the end of Roman rule in Britain part of. Despite this, a Romano-British civilian settlement (probably composed of some former Roman soldiers and their families) remained, using the fortress's fortified sandstone walls to defend against local attacks.
During the medieval period the Saxons set out to repair, strengthen and extend the existing Roman walls, and they did so well that the rebuilt sections at this time still make up the majority of the wall today.
Civil war engulfed England in the 17th century AD, with the country locked in a struggle between elected parliamentary democracy and the absolute monarchy of the Royalists. The King's eldest son was the Earl of Chester, so it was natural that Chester supported King Charles and the Royalists during the Civil War.
However, councilors were very keen to control Chester due to its strategic position as the gateway to Wales and the fact that it was an important trading center. Another improvement project was begun on the Roman walls, with watchtowers added to warn of approaching parliamentary armies.
But despite these improvements, Chester's walls were repeatedly breached during parliamentary attacks over the next three years.
Legend has it that on one occasion, the women of Chester were asked to stay up all night repairing the breach in the wall because the men were exhausted from the day's fighting.
In times of peace following the difficult times of the Civil War, the city walls no longer needed defense and in 1707 AD it was decided to create a remarked footpath around the walls for citizens to travel around the city. Today the walls form the most complete system of Roman and medieval walls in Britain, with almost every site receiving Grade I protection.
Amphitheater
The Roman amphitheater at Chester is one of the Romans' greatest contributions to Britain. Built in the late 1st century AD, it is the largest amphitheater in Britain. theater. Located just outside the ramparts circuit, it is now a semicircular gravel sweep surrounded by crumbling sandstone and lush green grass. Every time I set foot on this site, I am in awe of its architecture and a little horrified by the thought of what went on inside its stands over 2,000 years ago.
Contrary to popular belief, this amphitheater was not a military training space, but a civilian amphitheater, most likely used for cockfighting, bullfighting, and combat sports. More than 7,000 spectators would gather on the open-air venue's stone grandstands to chat with neighbors, buy souvenirs, and brace themselves for an armored gladiator battle that would see only one man emerge victorious once the battle reached its bloody conclusion.
In 2005 AD, the Roman amphitheater at Chester was the site of one of the largest archaeological excavations in the UK, where it was discovered that the amphitheater was not only actually a two-storey structure similar to those found along the Mediterranean coast (eg El Djem in Tunisia) But it is actually based on the second and earlier theater. Little is known about this early structure, except that it was simpler than the first and may date to the Legio II Adiutrix, which was released to the area in the late 70s AD.
These discoveries changed the way historians viewed the amphitheater until 2005 AD. Recent improvements have transformed the amphitheater's grounds, making it easier to imagine its former glory.
A large-scale mural by British artist Gary Drostle depicts the full amphitheater, which now forms the backdrop to the site with a new pedestrian bridge, allowing visitors to view from a powerful but Enter the Roman gladiator angle which can be quite tense.
River
On sunny days, residents of Chester flock to the riverbanks to enjoy the gorgeous sunsets reflected on the water and take advantage of seasonal attractions. These include local brass musicians serenading the bandstand, pedal boats that can be sailed up and down the river, and a kiosk selling the popular 99 ice cream.
The river's recreational importance today contrasts sharply with its former vitality as an economic bloodline and inland trade and shipping route. This economic purpose dates back to the days when the Saxon kings of Wessex refounded Chester.
Little is known about the period between the withdrawal of the Romans and the 9th century AD, but Chester regained its prominence as a prosperous city or borough in the late Anglo-Saxon period, which Thanks to its location on the banks of the River Dee. Dee meant that the residents of Chester could import wine, food and livestock from Wales, France and Spain, as well as export leather which was Chester's main industry at the time. Due to its location on the riverbank, the town is booming.
The river also has industrial uses. In AD 1093 Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester, commissioned the construction of a sandstone weir upstream of Old Dee Bridge to store water for his corn mill. This later provided inspiration for a traditional folk song, which tells the story of a miller who is delighted with his machine:
I live in my mill, God bless her! She is a relative, a child, and a wife;
I wouldn't change my situation for anyone else in my life;
No lawyer, surgeon, or doctor can get one thing from me Benefits;
If no one cares about me, I don't care about anyone.
However, this weir caused the siltation of the River Dee, and with the development of the new port of Liverpool on the Mersey the trading function of Chester was reduced. What is now Roodee Racecourse is the oldest racecourse in the country and was once part of Chester's Roman harbor and river - the only curious reminder of its maritime past today is the stone cross in the middle of the wide, bright green racecourse A tree stump with traces of water ripples visible on its stem.
Castle
Today's Chester Castle complex sits on a knoll overlooking the River Dee and has changed considerably from the original motte-and-bailey structure. But it still offers an excellent vantage point over the river and racecourse, and every time I visit I close my eyes and imagine myself a prisoner within the stone walls.
After the Norman Conquest, Earl Hugh Lupus built Mote and Bailey Castle, typical of the time, out of timber, which was later replaced by stone.
The castle enhanced Chester's reputation as a military force and became the base for expeditions to North Wales in the 12th and 13th centuries AD.
The unfortunate Welsh leader Gruffudd ap Cynan was captured and imprisoned in the castle for several years, during which time Earl Hugh occupied Wales and established sieges at Bangor, Caernarfon and Aberdeen. Lenog built the castle. Gruffudd was eventually dragged out of his castle prison and bound in the marketplace for all the residents of Chester to see, and as the story goes, Cynwrig the Tall took the opportunity to rescue Gruffudd so that he could Fleeed to Ireland. After Gruffudd's escape, the castle's crypt continued to serve as a useful prison for important prisoners during the Wars of the Roses, such as Richard II and the Yorkist John Neville.
Today the crumbling remains of the original castle can be visited in the neoclassical complex developed by Thomas Harrison around the original structure in the late 18th century AD. It's really like stepping back in time, passing through the magnificent Doric arches with classical influences, and entering the stone Agricola Tower, the original gateway to the castle, which still retains its exquisite religious circa 1240 AD mural.
My favorite is the mural of a man leaning over to embrace his lover, which although now cracked and blurry, gives the impression of how stunning and gorgeous these walls once were. The Cheshire Military Museum records the life of the British regiments associated with the county and is also located within the complex in a typically neoclassical pale symmetrical building that was formerly used as a military barracks.
OK
When I was growing up, I believed that every city had its own "OK". These are a series of half-timbered black and white buildings that connect long galleries, residential shops and cafes at ground and first floor or "gallery" levels. Of course, I soon learned that this arrangement of high-level shops, cafes and offices, accessed via small stairs between the ground-floor shops, was quite unique to Chester - indeed, Nowhere else comes close in terms of row size. world.
Chester Row was built during the medieval period. At that time, these guilds extended from the shop rooms to the living quarters of the craftsmen and their families. These shops would have been busy workshops with signage outside showing images of the craftsmanship created inside, as few people at the time were literate. Their exact origins remain unclear, but some historians believe they may have been built on the rubble of Roman buildings, or even Roman tombstones used for repairs.
Before the Civil War descended on England in the 17th century AD, most of these rows were continuous along the entire street, meaning their ground floor galleries had no breaks to prevent pedestrians from passing through the entire workshop Free passage.
However, Sir Richard Grosvenor, a descendant of the first Earl of Chester, moved his family from his country estate during the siege of Chester in 1643 AD. Moved to a townhouse and started the trend of closing ranks.
Sir Richard wanted to enlarge the size of his house because the siege meant he had to spend all his time there. He therefore obtained permission to seal off the row, preventing passers-by from accessing the upper gallery of the part of the row he owned, meaning that residents of Chester had to descend and then ascend the row sequentially to access the surrounding shops. As an influential figure of the time, Sir Richard's decision had an impact on the planning decisions of his neighbours, who also began to seal off parts of their rows or build entirely new houses that did not include the surrounding rows.
Although some residents of Chester had the means to improve their homes when the siege began, three years of intense Parliamentary attacks on the Royalist stronghold of Chester began to take its toll. Without a steady supply of food and no means of making money from trade, the people suffered greatly - not only that, but because what little money they had was used to levy taxes and pay for repairs to the city walls.
Hungry residents of Chester are eating dogs, cats and even rats in a desperate attempt to avoid starvation after councilors blocked a single food supply route to the city. Even so, many people died of starvation.
In January 1646 AD Lord Byron, Governor of Chester, gave the city to the councillors, on the condition that its ancient and religious monuments would be preserved. But the MPs ignored the agreement and destroyed Chester's High Cross Church, castle, houses and workshops, and several churches. Once they were done, Chester lay among the rubble.
After these difficult days, the people of Chester began to rebuild their city, and many of the half-timbered rows that can be seen in Chester today originate from this period of rebuilding, with oak timbers The tar was painted black to protect it from wind and rain and the wattle and daub were painted white with limewash.
However, not every half-timbered row or building in Chester today is from the Tudor period: some are 'mock-Tudor' buildings built in the Victorian era. Initial examples include the Tudor House in Lower Bridge Street, the Bear and Billet pub in South Gate and the Stanley Palace Haunted House in Watergate Street.
To this day, the Black and White Row remains a unique part of Chester life, with interesting shops and restaurants on a perfect level for people watching.
Cathedral
The medieval sandstone building of Chester Cathedral stands proudly on the inner circle of Walls Circuit. This is a very English architectural style, from the Norman north transept to the elaborate tracery adorning the Gothic windows and the delightfully ornate choir stalls dating from the late 14th century AD. It is a peaceful place whose history is intertwined with that of the city.
It is believed that the origins of Chester Cathedral date back to the late Roman period, when some Romans began to convert to Christianity and build Christian cathedrals. Whether or not the Romans built such a cathedral in Chester, we know that by the 10th century AD the remains of St. Werburgh were enshrined in a church in Chester, becoming an important pilgrimage site for medieval Christians. The building was later razed to the ground and sadly, no trace remains today.
Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester Weir and Castle fame, with the help of St. Anselm and other monks from Normandy, France, donated a Benedictine building on the site of the present cathedral monastery. This medieval monastery stood for 500 years before King Henry VIII ordered the dissolution of the monasteries in England. This time, however, by order of King Henry VIII himself, the buildings survived and became cathedrals to the Church of England.
Since becoming a cathedral, the building has undergone tremendous restoration work over the centuries, which is why so many architectural styles can be found within its walls. The red sandstone bricks provide a warm glow for worshipers inside the cathedral, but it is a delicate material that is prone to decay in the British weather.
The most extensive restoration work was carried out by Victorian restorer George Gilbert Scott, who replaced interior fittings that had been destroyed during the Civil War, such as the ornate choir screen. He also used red sandstone from nearby Runcorn to give the cathedral's appearance a consistent appearance.
Today one of the most peaceful places in Chester is the Cathedral Gardens, home to the monument to the Cheshire Regiment and the first free-standing bell tower built in England since the Reformation.
Clock
The East Gate Clock sits majestically atop the arched sandstone structure of the East Gate, at the original entrance to the Roman fortress. "Let's meet at the clock" was a common phrase in my teenage years, as the pedestrian area beneath the colorful wrought iron and copper structure was the perfect gathering place. Walking along the city wall through the East Gate, you can also get a bird's eye view of Dongmen Street below.
The clock, along with many of Chester's most famous and well-preserved buildings, was built in the Victorian era. The white-brick Italianate-style Chester Main Station opened in 1848 AD and survives as one of only 22 listed railway stations in England. The Town Hall was also built during this period and remains an example of Ruschinian Gothic Revival architecture of the time.
The Guildhall Building houses another famous Chester clock, showing a three-sided bell tower with the Welsh side missing, supposedly because "Chester would not give Wales the time of day". The Eastgate Clock was built in 1897 AD to commemorate Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee and is said to be the second most photographed clock in the UK after Big Ben in London.
And my home
Every time I return to Chester, I am reminded again of its fascinating story and what it has been through today. These stories are told not only through the impressive displays of Roman artefacts in the Grosvenor Museum or the military archives at Cheshire Military Museum, but also in the living city that still exists in Chester today.
As I jogged around the circuit of the Roman walls, I could almost feel the horror of the Councilor's transgression, and when I caught up with an old friend in a row of cafes, I was led Back to a lively medieval studio. The magic of Chester is that its history lives not just in dusty documents but in beautifully preserved buildings, monuments and public spaces that are still preserved today. For the use and enjoyment of the citizens of Chester.