A Prose Appreciation of "Ginger's Xin"

The ancient Chinese character for "jiang" was written as "jiang", and "纺" is both the phonetic and form tense. It is the omission of "jiang", indicating the national border. There is nothing underneath the word "bow" in the seal script. According to Mr. Wang Li, "strong" and "strong" are connected, which means that the bow is powerful, which by extension means strong. Mr. Wang also quoted the explanation of this word, "dish that protects against dampness". For the variant characters of seal script, "Gong" was omitted, and after Liliization, the regular script became "Jiang" - the prefix "Cao" was separated. The new Mongolian character for Pasiba was created during the time of Kublai Khan. It corresponds to the ancient character "ginger", which looks like a square lantern hanging on a neatly nested iron wire. This word is found in both Japanese and Korean. It can be seen that ginger has appeared in people's recipes very early.

It has become a common belief that ginger was introduced from outside - from India or the Malay Peninsula. However, there are also foreigners who insist that China is the birthplace. Andrew Dalby believes that China is the origin of ginger and it spread along the Maritime Silk Road. He also cited the example of seafarers on the ship using some abandoned containers to grow ginger as supporting evidence. That's not surprising at all. Old ladies in Beijing have always had the habit of burying ginger in flower pots. Ginger has been growing for a long time. How can a middle-class family have so much meat to cook? The size of the hand is a big piece. Every time I cook, I take one or two slices to get the flavor. It takes a long time.

There is a kind of Chinese porcelain, mainly blue and white, but also pastel, with a big belly and a lid, called a ginger jar. Names flowed back into the domestic collection industry from foreign countries. There is a large stock of that kind of jar abroad. In ancient times, honey pickling and candied fruits, which are the continuation of honey pickling technology, were a good way to preserve food. Candied ginger has been one of the important overseas trade foods since the Ming and Qing Dynasties - attached to tea and served as tea snacks. The British love to eat candied ginger, and by the Qing Dynasty they had formed a consumption dependence - they were the biggest customers of candied ginger in Hong Kong. In the 1920s and 1930s, they continued the habit of using porcelain jars to store candied ginger for export. The British upper class regarded sugar ginger as a high-end food. It is not difficult to explain why the shadow of the ginger jar appears from time to time in the still life oil paintings of the Cézanne period. It is not difficult to explain why ginger is a salty food in the Chinese cultural circle - fish stew and meat stew; but in the West it has become the main ingredient in desserts - gingerbread and ginger beer. The world we see is a single pattern of colorful cloth, and there is another pattern behind the cloth, and another pattern. Those floral fabrics stick together to form a sponge wall - pushing what we see and storing what we don't see.

Those jars with candied ginger and raw ginger are piled up out of the kiln, slowly fading in the wind and rain. The ginger slices, which are sweet, sweet and spicy, are stuffed together into the shrinking belly, and the lid is closed under the dark sky. The craftsmen move the cloth, the gangplank trembles, and the cabin bumps in the heat. A few months later, with a slight clinking sound of cups and saucers, the cap was removed, the jar was opened, and the cool and clear air flowed in. The amber-like flakes were pinched by fingers of different temperatures and brought into the mouth where the Chinese tea had been warmed. inside. One lump after another, hands and other grasping tools reached into the squatting jar again and again until it was empty. The empty jar was abandoned in the storage room, with the lid tilted to collect dust. Or someone might put a few idle flowers in it, and leave it alone in a quiet corner. A ball of glaze swaying in the eyes of the foreigners, gravel splashing into the lake, and clear waves; or like spring grass on a stone bridge, quietly growing out of the green bridge wall, regardless of the current carrying the boat to the east or west.

Chili pepper is so spicy that it burns the tongue, while ginger is so spicy that it touches the bones. Thousands of scorpion tails sting the tongue and it hurts. I can't tell where it hurts, not my cheeks, not my forehead. I can't find the pain point, it just hurts, like biting open a wasp bag, and a pocket of fine thorns burrows into the flesh, and reaches the cheek bone. It hurt when I chewed lightly, and it hurt when I chewed hard. Even the tiles on the roof opposite turned yellow in pain. It’s not the roaring mountains, the tsunami, the white ocean tide, or the wet smoke and heavy mist, the shining light of Hu Xing. It's not the numbing sensation of being overly electric, nor is it the cool chill of a cone. The pain is like a soldier rushing across the border with thousands of steps, hurriedly bringing up thousands of feet of dry dust. When the dry dust rises to a high point and falls, the dim pain is like the stars flashing brightly. In the dust, the blue leaves gather into a net of pockets, and the pain After suffering the bitterness, the sweet energy comes back - like digging in a well, after several buckets of turbidity, it becomes quiet and clear, and you can see the sparse willows and the bright moon.

Ginger is not grown locally in Beijing, it cannot be seen in gardens, and there is no Yisheng in the fields. Occasionally we meet each other, always at other people's homes. A dilapidated wooden box, a washbasin that is almost leaking, a little bit of soil, or a corner of the land with bricks as big as a hand, crowded with jasmine grass and short bushes. Ginger without buds is insensitive when cut. Cutting it after buds have grown will always arouse people's thoughts of protecting their health - find a flowerpot and bury it in the sand. Go out and see the young ones, and then buy them after you use them. Jiang, who had just been buried, was not used to the hazy blackness under the soil. He struggled hard and pushed open a layer of soil cover. Seeing that there was no danger, he lifted the cover and jumped out. If the buds and ginger buds are buried, they will not come out, otherwise they must be rotten. When Gu Ting'er first came out, it still had a few days of freshness to attract some people's attention, and then it rubbed against the red and yellow flowers of jasmine grass. In the autumn, the jasmine grass held up the mine-like sunspots and shook them a few times, withering leaves, broken branches and collapsed seedlings. Jiang suddenly grew taller, poking so lonely. When it's freezing, the family puts on a cotton door curtain, lifts it up with "Huda" and puts it down. The ginger stalks in the yard are translucent and freeze into glass. Only one coral bean in the house was still alive in the pot. The next spring it continued to grow, squeezing the coral bean to death. The ginger that squeezed the coral beans to death was still pressed against the edge of the flower pot, showing no intention of moving to the center of the flower pot. There are three or two more stiles, and the leaves seem to be wider than the previous year, like reeds. Qiu Shang poured out the pot and broke off a small piece. The remaining rice was held by grandpa for planting.

"Ginger is enough," Grandpa said while watering.

During the Jiaqing Dynasty of the Qing Dynasty, ginger was no longer a new thing in the south, and it was not very cheap in Beijing. There is a merchant specializing in selling ginger in the street, called Ginger Store, with two types of signs. One is to pick out four single string loops on the horizontal bar, with the word "self-made fresh ginger" in each circle, and silk strips hanging down. One is pointing diagonally toward the sky, with eight loops arranged from the head of the pole, with one word in each circle, "self-made fresh ginger and southern goods issued". Ginger stores existed in Beijing until the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China. With the improvement of transportation and planting technology, the value of ginger gradually declined. Eventually it became a fixture in oil and salt shops with vegetable beds.

Jiang comes from the south. If you look at it from Beijing, the further south you go, the more common it becomes, and the further north you go, the rarer it becomes. From a time point of view, the closer it is to us, the cheaper it is, and the farther away it is, the more valuable it is.

Hong Hao of the Southern Song Dynasty recounted what he saw and heard when he was envoy to the Kingdom of Jin as a general envoy to the Kingdom of Jin. It is said that ginger is a treasure, it is not available locally and the price is high. Only when entertaining distinguished guests will they be willing to cut some thin strips in the dish and serve it to the table.

Since Confucius "does not take away ginger from food", ginger has been integrated into the lives of Chinese people. In the Eastern Han Dynasty, he was greatly used by Zhang Zhongjing. "Treatise on Febrile Diseases" contains 113 prescriptions, more than half of which involve ginger, accounting for 59 of them. Ginger, dried ginger, fried ginger, ginger juice - there are so many names and uses, which made it difficult for later generations of students studying traditional Chinese medicine. Among the five flavors of traditional Chinese medicine (“spicy, sweet, sour, bitter and salty”), ginger occupies one of the “spicy” flavors, ranking first. These five characters have been singing "Yay" and "Yah" on the stage since the "Huangdi Neijing". There is also a waiting person in the backstage, who is "Dan" - so strictly speaking, this troupe has six people. In terms of yin and yang attributes, pungent, sweet and bland flavors belong to yang. Food and medicine have the same origin, and Chinese people understand the world through their mouths. In the early years, when the baby was enlightened, he recited "Sour, bitter, sweet, pungent and salty. These five flavors are contained in the mouth." Hard work, bitterness, and saltiness are not good words in the context of Chinese characters.

"Ginger is medicine, it can cure stomach problems." My master said when he gave me a bag of ginger powder.

Ginger powder is really not as easy to swallow as ginger and makes you choke. When chili peppers were introduced to China, the taste of ginger was described as spicy by the ancients. Spicy has a burning sensation, Xin does not. Pungent tastes like harsh criticism, which in itself does no harm. Not to mention the sweet aftertaste, there is a sweet taste just after entering the mouth, but the pungent taste is too strong, and it is not easy to distinguish after eating it. Criticism is the kindness of idealists. People who live with a critical attitude are like ginger-sharp but not destructive, with a cold face and a warm heart. That kind of person is rarely tolerated in the world. Far less lovable than a praising person who spits out flowers. When it comes to the famous products, plum salt refers to sour and salty, and ginger cinnamon refers to spicy. "Compendium of Materia Medica" says that ginger can communicate with the gods, which means that ginger can treat fainting and restore consciousness. When Peking Opera flourished in the late Qing Dynasty, actors wore cotton-padded clothes in the hot summer and single shirts and skirts in the cold winter, while singing, reciting, and playing. Actors with weak health often fainted on stage. Experienced people will check the site and drink it with ginger juice. Tan Xinpei was worshiped by the imperial court and often performed in front of the emperor. He was nervous and had a lack of warmth and coldness, and he fainted many times. He carries ginger juice in his bag, and he can drink it at any time according to the situation, and his fainting will be cured immediately.

There is a line in old Beijing called "Wo Bo'er", which is one of the seventy-two lines. The industry is very special and relies entirely on manpower. In the old days, it was indispensable for moving and dowry delivery. The items to be transported are arranged in advance on a wooden board and tied firmly with soft ropes. After that, two people set up the items and the wooden board and placed them on the shoulders of "Wobo'er". After putting the items on your shoulders, you don't stop midway. No matter how far you are, you keep looking straight ahead and stride forward. When we arrived at our destination, we needed two people to lift our lower shoulders to complete the trip. After working in this industry for a long time, there is an occupational disease - thick and hard pads will be worn out at the joints between the shoulders and necks. Therefore, practitioners always carry large pieces of ginger in their pockets. When waiting for work in the "Kouzi" teahouse or waiting for work at the employer's house, they will pinch and bite the peeled ginger and apply it to the gizzard pads to loosen blood stasis and remove knots.

Ni Zan is a representative painter of Nanzong landscape painting in the Yuan Dynasty. He was born nearly three hundred years before Zhang Dai, but the fate of the two men was extremely similar. When he was young, he lived a good life, but when he became an adult, his family fell into decline. The prosperity of the world cannot be controlled. These two people are like a Buddhist temple surrounded by people after the mountains have retreated. They can only maintain their sentiments and nourish their souls. They are irrigated by the rain and the red dust is splashing everywhere. They live in a green place. Art. Ni Zan has a way to eat cold noodles - the cold noodles method: peel and pound the ginger, add minced Sichuan peppercorns, make the sauce with vinegar, and pour it out to make juice.

Zhang Dai's treatment of ginger is different: bad ginger, cicada in the bottle, even old ginger has no tendons. After eating garlic, if you eat a little ginger and dates together, the smell will disappear. Put the bad ginger into the bottle, mix in a few ripe chestnuts and put it at the mouth of the bottle, then there will be no drizzle. When cooking ginger, use a few walnut meats at the bottom to make the ginger less spicy.

Where in the world are there so many major events that are of great significance to the world? A hundred years of life, for me, is lived day by day. In the eyes of future generations, the predecessors are only a few nouns without texture. In the friction with the growth of all things, it is not easy to leave a scratch on an object. People can't survive porcelain, and they can't survive ginger.

Su Dongpo has deep feelings, and a person with deep feelings has a sea of ??thoughts-not a big water is not enough to cultivate feelings; a person with deep feelings has a wide range of interests-not a vast wilderness is not enough to cultivate interest. Dongpo soup is famous, and ginger is also an indispensable ingredient.

My brother can cook. He rated himself as first in cooking and second in typing. Every year when fresh ginger comes out, a jar of kimchi is made and the jar is given to me. Most of the containers in our house that can be called jars are given to me by my brother with pickles.

Strange to say, those ginger and white radishes were so obedient in my brother's hands, and he could handle them as he pleased. In my hands, nothing will happen.

Ginger serves the living and occasionally the dead. Zheng Xuan of the Eastern Han Dynasty annotated "Rituals" and said that the ancients put Zelania and Lianjiang in the coffin the night before the deceased was buried, "to get their fragrance and keep away moisture." The spices galangal and ginger were unearthed from the Mawangdui Han Tomb. Ginger is also needed for the work done by the dead: "...if you avoid the stinky filth and don't come there in person, things will often go wrong. If the corpse moves and the odor is kept away, you should burn Atractylodes and Saponaria to remove it, apply sesame oil to your nose, or make a paper scoop to stuff the two sides with oil. Nostrils, still put small pieces of ginger in the mouth."

Not all are good, there are also those who use ginger to teach people to commit adultery, a bad idea in Yuan Dynasty drama: "The corners of my handkerchief are soaked in ginger juice. You take it to your eyes and wipe it. The tears will be The urine also seems to be flowing out." "You two are dead ghosts, and I two are living ghosts. They are called dragging dog skin. Buy some ginger and wipe away your tears." The play was written by people, but who said it was also the person who wrote the script who was talking. There is a brand in the Yuan Dynasty called "Ginger Buds". Regardless of the music, I feel alive just by looking at the words.

Zhu Guozhen once told a story about "a rat with a ginger in its mouth". He said that Xu Ben was fond of books. Make up for it. He laughed and said to people: "I am like a mouse carrying ginger, but it is useless to work." A mouse carries ginger in its mouth - it is useless to work.

In the old days, people were punished by eating ginger for fun. "Old Wulin Stories" says that every year on February 1st, during the Zhonghe Festival, a vegetable-picking banquet is held in the palace. First, prepare the inner garden with dendrobium flowers and plant lettuce and shepherd's purse. From the middle hall to the next, each one is picked with a golden grate. The rewards include pearls, jade, gold and silver, and the punishments include dancing, singing, chanting poems, drinking cold water, chanting Buddha's name, and eating ginger. To laugh at the joke. "The shepherd's purse picks the cripples and the people are still alive, and the ginger and cold water laugh for a long time."

Cantonese people are very interesting. They are far more sophisticated about food than northerners. Pig's feet and pig's hands are clearly distinguished. Pig's trotters and ginger are said to be eaten by pregnant women. They are also sold in morning tea restaurants. Follow their example and eat them with black vinegar. The chef at Running Greenhouse in Beijing has a recipe of shredded ginger strips. The processing of ingredients is a little cumbersome. Peel the ginger, soak it in boiling water and rinse it twice, and pat it with dry starch. The method is the same as other shredded dishes. It is crispy in the mouth and has a distant and ethereal ginger aroma.

Ginger buds break through the ground and have the meaning of bamboo. Zhou Zuoren once wrote a short article talking about the simplification of Chinese characters. In fact, it’s not simplified, it’s quite beautiful. If it is not simplified, the riddle about ginger will still appear from time to time in the banquets at lantern festivals, or it will be passed down.

Mystery: Green lotus leaves cover Hengchuan River. Shoot: ginger.