What are the ancient embroidery books like?

Development history of embroidery industry

China's embroidery art has a long history. As early as ancient times, it was born with jade, pottery and fabric.

Embroidery, called "needle" or "needle thread" in ancient books, uses colored silk, velvet and cotton thread to pierce silk, satin, hemp, silk and other base fabrics with the help of needles, thus forming patterns, images or characters.

Embroidery is a sister art of painting. Therefore, Li Zhoukao listed embroidery as one of the paintings and advocated that "make-up is embroidery", which affirmed the artistic status of embroidery.

Primitive embroidery is juxtaposed with exquisite silk brocade, which is collectively called "Splendid".

From another aspect, it shows that it is a combination of practicality and aesthetics, and it has a long history.

In China's 5,000-year history of civilization, inventions shining with human wisdom, like a string of gems, have won worldwide praise. Among them, embroidery based on the discovery and utilization of silk not only enriches people's material life, but also is a high-level spiritual enjoyment.

As a handicraft from sewing to embroidery, embroidery is developed on the basis of ordinary sewing. From threading needles to sewing clothes is a great progress of human civilization. Archaeological excavation data prove that as early as 18000 years ago, cavemen in Paleolithic China used bone needles to sew animal skins. In the Neolithic Age, Hemudu people more than 7,000 years ago not only used bone needles, but also had textiles. Kudzu fabric was unearthed at Caoxieshan site in Wuxian county, Jiangsu province, and silk, silk thread, ribbon and ramie cloth were unearthed at Qianshanyang site in Xing Wu, Zhejiang province, which proved that silk weaving in China has developed to a new stage.

"The thread in the hand of a kind-hearted mother makes clothes for her wayward son's body". China's agricultural society, which lasted for more than 3,000 years, not only established the idea of taking agriculture as the foundation, but also established the system of male ploughing and female weaving. Girls have to learn spinning, weaving, tailoring and sewing at an early age, and embroidery is closely related to this. In the past, in the south of the Yangtze River, such as Suzhou, there was a profession called "Embroidery Mother", which specialized in embroidery teaching for the daughters of rich families. They not only embroider dowry, but also make many embroidered handicrafts (such as wallets and sweat towels) to give to the man's relatives and friends when they get married. Therefore, embroidery has become a standard to measure the ingenuity of the bride.

One of the folk songs in China is called Embroidering a Pouch, to the effect that a young woman suddenly heard a dog barking at home, and someone sent a letter from her husband who was not at home, asking her to embroider a purse and put it on. She happily went to the vendor to buy the Silk Road selection, fairy tales and beautiful scenery on earth. She embroidered almost all of China's writings into her purse to show her love for her husband. When she finished embroidering her purse, it was almost dawn and the messenger came. The story is not tortuous, but the feelings are natural and sincere. For thousands of years, China folk embroidery has developed on this basis.

The origin of textile processing in China can be traced back to the late Paleolithic period. Silkworm rearing and silk weaving also appeared in the late Neolithic period, that is, about seven or eight thousand years ago. "Overview of Imperial Map" records: "Fuxi became a silkworm, and Xiling family began to silkworm." Fuxi and Xiling are both figures in ancient legends, while Lei Zu, the daughter of Xiling and the wife of the Yellow Emperor, is the creator of sericulture and silk management. After the Northern Zhou Dynasty, it was enshrined as the "first silkworm" (silkworm god). The book Shan Hai Jing records: "To the east of da ji, in the field of Oss, a woman kneels with the silk of a tree." "Yi Shi Neijing" records that "the Yellow Emperor beheaded Chiyou, and the silkworm god offered silk, which is called the power of weaving dimension". 1926, a basically intact but cut cocoon was found in the Neolithic site of Huituling, Yin Xi Village, Xia County, Shaanxi Province. These legends and objects illustrate sericulture and silk reeling in primitive society. Silk reeling is the premise of embroidery. With the further development of social productive forces, primitive society gradually turned into a slave society. In various sacrificial activities, the host's costumes are embroidered with patterns of different colors and patterns, so there is "the beauty of literary embroidery". A passage from Taigong Tamia Liu quoted in "Peaceful Magnolia" said: "In the Shang and Zhou Dynasties in Xia Jie, a woman with brilliant literary talent took food as her priority and often wore 300 clothes." It can be seen that the scale of embroidery has been considerable. Legend has it that there was a skillful craftsman "working on the embroidered mountain" in Yushun. In the Book of Changes of Yu Shu, pretending to be the jade emperor, he said, "If you want to see the image of the ancients, the meeting of the moon, the stars, the Longhua insects, and the rice embroidery of Zong Yi algae fire, the five colors are applied to the five colors." Draw immediately; Zong Yi refers to the tiger respect and respect embroidered by Yu Shunshi; Algae is algae; Fire is phlogistic; Powder rice, powder such as corn ice, rice if gathered rice; The embroidery on the ancient dress is like an axe, half black and half white in color; The pattern of two bows on the ancient dress is half green and half black; Embroidery refers to the embroidery on the bougainvillea. This shows that people have used the sun, moon, stars, mountain dragons and China insects in nature and animal kingdom to draw clothes, and used Zong Yi, seaweed, fire and pink rice as embroidery patterns in daily life. These logo patterns were adopted by emperors in the late feudal society and added to the modeling of coronation clothes. The Book of Songs tang style Qin Feng Qi Feng contains Zhu Embroidery of plain clothes, Yi Embroidery and Yan Yi Embroidery, which not only tells the story of Guizhou people wearing gorgeous embroidered clothes at that time, but also tells the general development of embroidery technology at that time. In the Zhou Dynasty, there was a saying that "painting and embroidering is not only a job, but also a responsibility". From the Western Zhou Dynasty to the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the two states of Qingxu (present-day Shandong) were known as "a thousand miles of mulberry horses" and "the crown of clothes". With the prevalence of textile printing and dyeing industry, embroidery technology has also emerged and developed. "Guanzi Light and Heavy Chapter II" says that "women must have knives, vertebrae and needles (long needles)"; "Mozi also said," Women workers are articles, and field workers are sculptures. Both "needle" and "embroidery" are tools for sewing and "literary talent" refers to painting and embroidery. In addition, Historical Records also contains: "Chu Zhuangwang loves horses, embroidered words on his clothes, and placed them under the mansion", which is another side evidence of the popularity of dyeing and embroidery in the upper class at that time. So far, the discovered embroidery objects include braided embroidery unearthed from Jingjing Tomb in the Western Zhou Dynasty of Baoji, two embroidered dragons and phoenixes unearthed from Warring States Tomb in Changsha Martyrs Park, four braided embroidery unearthed from Tomb No.3, and embroidered silks unearthed from Tomb No.406 of Chu, etc. In recent years, new archaeological discoveries have also been made in Jiangling, Hubei, Xinyang, Henan and other places, especially the embroidered silk quilt, white silk embroidered phoenix quilt, embroidered dragon, phoenix and tiger clothes, embroidered sachets, mirror covers, pillow bags, bags and other embroidered pieces unearthed from the No.1 Chu tomb of Mashan Brick Factory in Jiangling, with patterns of dragons, dragons, tigers and snakes, as well as removed patterns. The image is vigorous, vivid and smooth, and it is an extremely precious embroidery with a long history. Embroidery works are not easy to preserve. What we can see now is the embroidery of the Yin, Shang and Western Zhou Dynasties, which is a trace attached to the soil. The grain and embroidery pattern of silk fabric are faintly visible, so the pattern embroidered with single thread is the "braid" stitch. Embroidery in the Warring States period is very complicated in terms of unearthed objects. 1982 embroidered quilts and Zen (single) clothes unearthed from the Chu tomb in Mashan, Jiangling, Hubei Province, are embroidered with dragons, phoenixes and tigers, with distinct and staggered patterns, which are very vivid. Although the "braided strand" needle method is mainly used, the expressive force has been obviously improved.

The embroidery technology in the Tang and Song Dynasties has made great progress. Bai Juyi wrote in the poem "Qin Zhongyin": "A rich girl in a red chamber is a thorn in gold ornaments." Tang Cui Qin Ling's "Jiao Fang Ji" said: The dance costumes used in the performance of "Shengshou Music" in Kaiyuan are all embroidered with big flowers. Su E's Du Yang Miscellaneous Magazine contains: When Princess Tongchang got married, she embroidered a quilt, 3,000 mandarin ducks, and occasionally exotic flowers and herbs. According to legend, in the court of Xuanzong, Yang Guifei was the only one, and as many as 700 workers knitted exotic tapestries and embroidered dresses for her. With the widespread spread of Buddhist capital, many feudal landlords rushed to build Buddha statues and copy Buddhist scriptures in an attempt to become Buddhas and enjoy a happy life forever. This influence has also penetrated into the field of embroidery technology. "Du Yang Miscellaneous Compilation" contains: "During Yong Zhenyuan's reign, Nanhaigong Nvniang could embroider seven volumes of" wax "on a foot of silk." There are three records of Embroidering Buddha in Bai Letian Collection. There is another sentence in Du Fu's poem: "Before the Su Jin Dynasty embroidered Buddha". The above documents show that China's embroidery technology developed to the Tang Dynasty, from the embroidery of flowers, birds, insects and insects in general clothing to the embroidery of Xiu Xiang, which is purely ornamental. The techniques of adding gold, adding silver, beading and color harmony in Tang embroidery are also extremely high. One of the embroidery skills at that time can also be seen from embroidered clothes, embroidered robes and other embroidery products found in the underground palace of Famen Temple in Fufeng County, Shaanxi Province in recent years. Here, we should also mention the embroidery fu written by Ren Liang and Zhang Lv, describing the excellent tradition and superb skills of embroidery. At the beginning, he wrote: "Seeking the originality of creation is fixed in various works, so embroidery is the first step." When describing the process of making embroidery at that time, he said: "If a husband looks at its connection, but does not let it go, the tortoise and dragon are the text and the gods are the images." I always think in five colors. I borrow Rowan's thoughts. This is a famous inscription praising embroidery in literary form. With its unique emotional artistic language, Zhang rate highly praised the superb embroidery world and its realistic content: "Everything is tangible, as diverse as possible, rich and colorful, and dense. If spring blossoms, pines and cypresses will smell fragrant." What is extremely valuable is that he also satirized the people who took these silk embroideries, such as "the daughter of Handan, the teenager of Wanluo", "self-admiration, self-pity mirror, the beauty of horses and chariots, and the beauty of clothes", which set off the exquisite embroidery art and poured sympathy and praise on the folk artists engaged in embroidery. "Embroidery Fu" can be described as an artistic record of the high achievements and influence of embroidery at that time from one side.

It's driving me dizzy!

In short-the history of embroidery industry is: hand embroidery-motorcycle embroidery-computer embroidery.

All kinds of embroidery machinery:

Pearl embroidery, rope embroidery and sewing equipment such as Mao Jinxiu Heping embroidery.