I went to Tianshui on 26th and returned to Xi 'an on 28th, for three days.
Tianshui is between Xi 'an and Lanzhou, 3 kilometers away from Xi 'an Highway and 3 kilometers away from Lanzhou. Nowadays, in the era of high-speed rail, it takes an hour and a half. Tianshui is a small city, which is built along the river and meanders like a belt. On both sides of the city are mountains, and the mountains look at the mountains. In the words of my friend, the distance between the north and the south is 5 kilometers "a narrow road", and my friend is an old household of Tianshui. Friends have invited me many times, but I always have no chance. This is the first time I have been to Tianshui. The north and south are narrow and the east and west are long. The overall impression of the city is that the old and the new are mixed, lively but not prosperous. The city center is around a small square. If you ask where the city center is? Tianshui people will say "square".
The city is surrounded by mountains and waters, and the climate is still cool. Friends say that people in Tianshui don't need air conditioning in summer. I heard from a friend that it was dry for more than 2 days the other day, and it didn't rain. It rained for three days when I went there, and people were depressed.
the next day, I went to maiji mountain.
There is a notice in the scenic spot: "Patients with heart disease and hypertension and those who are afraid of heights should not board". Maiji Mountain is not high, more than 1 meters high, and there are many Buddha statues carved on the cliffs all around.
Maiji Mountain is in the southeast of Tianshui, about 5 kilometers. In the middle reaches of Maiji Mountain in the heavy rain, holding an umbrella, I listened to the tour guide telling the story of "Buddha Country" on the slippery mountain road: "Look ……". In the misty rain, I saw only the ochre shadow of the mountain, and the top of the mountain, which was thick on the top and thin on the bottom, seemed to be a pile of amaranth buttresses that were common in rural yards in the past. The rain and fog filled the air, and from afar, the cliff stood in the middle of the mountain. The word "Zhi" and the word "Zhi" are hanging in the air on the cliff, attracting tourists, and touching the rumor that "every niche is a Buddha, no wall is not flying" in the rushing rain. "seven buddha Pavilion", "Niuertang" and "Small Cave" ... Take a look, take a look, don't go back, go south and go west, and it takes about one and a half hours to see the whole cliff stone carving along the plank road. The tour guide said that the total length of the plank road is about 1.5 kilometers. Maijishan Grottoes, Yungang in Datong, Longmen in Luoyang and Dunhuang in Gansu are listed as the four major grottoes in China, known as the "Oriental Sculpture Museum". There are more than a hundred clay sculptures on the east and west cliffs of the mountain, and the remains of the Northern Wei Dynasty, no matter tall or small, are made of stone tires and clay sculptures, with Buddhas, Bodhisattvas, their disciples and Lux standing, recording their stories ... I was on my back or bent over, amazed, and seemed to hear the sound of tinkling a hammer and chiseling a thousand years ago still ringing in this empty valley ... What kind of beliefs did people have in those days? How persistent the craftsmen were in those days! I'm here today ... What kind of knot is it? When I saw the plaque across the cave, this is what I was looking for, "yes or no, and so on"! It's on the "Scattered Flower Building" at the top of Maiji Mountain.
The "Scattered Flower Building" stands in a spacious stone cave, one floor high, and seven caves are carved side by side, also known as seven buddha Pavilion. Each cave has a Buddha, two disciples and bodhisattvas, or a Buddha and bodhisattvas. At the two ends of the pavilion are glaring lux, and there is a plaque on the door of a grotto in the middle, which reads "Yes or No, etc.". At last, the word "Wait" saves pen and becomes two points, which seems to be a "two". The color of the Buddha in the cave is still bright. This plaque has been ruined and lacquerless, but the four big characters are black and vigorous.
The plaque "Yes or No" was inscribed by Mr. Wang Wangwang, a calligrapher in the early Qing Dynasty, when he visited Maiji Mountain in Tianshui in his later years, facing the magnificent rivers and mountains.
The tour guide said: Wang Wangwang was the magistrate of Tongan in Quanzhou, Fujian. In his later years, he lived in Qin Zhou (ancient Tianshui) and went to Xiao Temple (a temple at the corner of Maiji Mountain). At that time, the Qing army entered the customs, and he was bent on fighting against the Qing dynasty and regaining sight, so he changed his name to Hope, that is, he placed his hopes on himself. As I grew older, I felt overwhelmed and began to pin my hopes on my son, so I changed my name to "Ziwang". However, the situation has gradually stabilized, the economy has also developed, and the people have settled down in peace and contentment, and there is no hope of regaining sight. In desperation, they changed their name to "Lookout" and lost this hope. Give, son, and finally "yes or no". He even "saved" the last word.
the word "yes or no" is taken from the Buddhist scripture "Heart Sutra". "Yes" refers to what is right, what is obtained, and what exists; "Nothing" refers to what is wrong, what is lost, what does not exist, and "and so on", that's all: right, wrong, what is gained, what is lost, that's all.
Yes, nothing and so on, that's all. How many lives have been realized and how many troubles have been solved by this thought.
actually, life is just a thought. One thought of success or failure, one thought of honor or disgrace, one thought of life and death ... There is also the liberation of one thought here, or I understand the meaning of the existence of Buddha. It's a pity that it rained so heavily today, but I took a picture in front of the stone carving of "misty rain and wheat accumulation" in front of the gate of Maijishan, and I held an umbrella ... In fact, there is nothing like "the most timely misty rain is a scene of Maijishan, where clouds cover the charming colors of autumn, the plank road that rises step by step, and the misty rain that comes from the chest. You can conveniently give up 3, troubles and enjoy the instant pleasure of becoming an immortal." That's the "strong talk" of Wen Qing people today. Although Wu Xichuan, a native of Hanlinyi, Qing Dynasty, also said in his poem "Wheat Accumulates Misty Rain" that "it is best to love dusk smoke after autumn rain".
The rain is flowing along the mountain road ... Because of the rain, the food stalls in the two streets of Maijishan tourist area are very deserted, and the bosses are shouting business at us. I tasted the "sticky" (called "natural" in the local accent, which means sticky teeth), "quack" and "noodles with gravy" in Tianshui ... The food made of buckwheat flour or potato flour is like the dumplings and bean jelly eaten by Shaanxi people.
by the time I got back to the hotel, I was soaked to the skin.
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