Adelaide silk is produced in Jiya Township, Luopu County, located in the northwest of Luopu County, on the east bank of the middle and lower reaches of Yulong Kashi River. Ancient Hotan is the transportation hub of the Southern Silk Road, an important silk distribution center and one of the three major silk capitals in the western regions. The silk trade in Hotan flourished in the second and third centuries BC, and it was more prosperous from the Han Dynasty to the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, reaching its peak in the Tang Dynasty. According to records, during the Southern and Northern Dynasties, a group of transit merchants transported more than 4,300 pieces of silk at a time. A large number of China silks are mainly transported to Central Asia, the Middle East and Mediterranean countries through the Southern Silk Road. "Businessmen peddle customers, and the daily payment is stuffed" and "endless". Hotan has a long-standing reputation in the historical position of silk trade. In the Tang Dynasty, most of the "silk" of Hotan Real Estate was sold to the Central Plains, and was snapped up by the princes and nobles of the Central Plains Dynasty.
Anyone who comes to Hotan from other places almost says that the Uighur girls in Hotan are beautiful, with thin curved eyebrows, bright eyes, high nose and even figure. Wearing clothes made of "Aitres" silk is even more graceful.
Aitelis is a specialty of Hotan. Hotan is a famous silk town on the Silk Road, and the total output of cocoon reaches more than 70% of the total output of the whole autonomous region. Before the founding of the People's Republic of China, raw cocoons and raw silk were basically woven in the local area except for some exports. It has been recorded in history that in the 10 century, King Khotan brought a large number of "Jin Hu" and "Xi Gold" made by Hotan to the Central Plains for commercial transactions. It is very popular in the Central Plains. Although there is no direct evidence that silk is "gold" or "gold". But in the next few decades, Hotan people
According to Islam, Yi Shen Xing Silk undoubtedly bears the cultural imprint of Islam, but it is difficult for us to assert that the traditional inheritance relationship between them has been cut off. In fact, or earlier, there are also records about "Atlas" in the history books of Iran, Turkey and Central Asian countries. Therefore, it can be said that the Yishenxing silk in Hotan not only has its own traditional characteristics, but also widely absorbs and integrates the cultural factors of various countries. /kloc-in the 5th century, when Mirza Ababak captured Hotan, he forced many skilled craftsmen in Hotan, especially those who made Yi Shenxing silk, to move to shache. Because he built his capital there, he asked craftsmen from Hotan to weave Yi Shenxing silk for him, and asked them to teach their skills to shache people. /kloc-in the 9th century, the silk reeling industry in Hotan was described in Kashgar written by A.H. Kuropatkin as quite developed. Besides Masluf, they also produce silk, such as Adriatic Sea, Katsav and Sha Yi. Silk from Kashgar and other real estates can only meet local demand, and even cannot be self-sufficient. Only Hotan silk is exported. 1876 exported 65,438+060 horses to Central Asia. Adrias is here. Astraea silk is not only cherished by Uighur women in Hotan, but also the clothes made of Yishenxing silk are popular in Xinjiang, even in several Central Asian countries, especially in Uzbekistan. In Uyghur poetry stories, it is described that people with status, such as bureaucrats, landlords and Bayi couples, put on Yi Shenxing silk dresses to participate in various social occasions or "Maixilaifu" (song and dance parties).
Yishenxing silk is soft, light and elegant, especially suitable for summer wear. The width of cloth is generally only 40 cm. The pattern is long, some are two rooms, arranged in a patchwork way; Some are three-way companies, staggered. Yishenxing silk is brightly colored, which is in sharp contrast with the monotonous environmental color on the edge of the desert, highlighting the Uighur people's warm love and pursuit of reality and future life. There are basically four kinds of Yishenxing silk, which are divided into black aitel, red aitel, yellow aitel and multi-tone aitel. All kinds of silk have one primary color, but they are properly matched with other colors. Raised patterns and plaids are dignified in splendor and steady in elegance. Black Aitlus has the longest manufacturing history and is called "Anjiyan Aitlus" among the people. This kind of cloth is made into clothes for middle-aged and elderly women. Andijan is a city in Uzbekistan. Due to the close relationship between Hotan and Central Asia, a large number of Uzbeks once settled in Hotan, and Hotan called them Andijans. Up to now, many people in Hotan have added "Anjiang" to their names, indicating that they are descendants of Uzbeks. Why is the black Venus silk called Anjiyan Artel? Some people say that this pattern comes from Uzbekistan, some people say that Hetian Yishenxing silk has been improved by Uzbek craftsmen, and some people say that Hetian Andijan people wear this kind of clothes more often. Red Yi Shen Xing silk, red pattern, yellow or white background. Bright colors, full of youthful atmosphere, are deeply loved by girls and young women. The pattern of Huang Aitelai silk is yellow, which is heavy and elegant against various background colors, showing a strong atmosphere. This kind of Atletico Madrid is mostly made into clothes for young and middle-aged women. There is also a mixed type, which Uighurs call Mai Li Qi Man, which regularly arranges various primary colors, either causing strong contrast or showing soothing changes. In addition to these four types, in recent years, there have also been Aitlers, such as blue Aitlers Laes and green Aitlers. Among them, green Yishenxing silk is mostly women's clothing for preschool children. These new varieties have not been systematized, and some of them belong to the above four types according to color matching.
Aitelis silk is rich in patterns and styles, including flowers, branches and leaves, almonds, apples and pears. There are wooden combs, tassels, earrings, gems and so on. Wooden hammer, saw, sickle, etc. There are tool patterns, and there are instrument patterns, such as the Rewaffle and Dutar. Others include fences, horns and so on. All kinds of patterns have strong Hotan local characteristics, which is the artistic embodiment of the beauty of Hotan people's life in clothing. Melons, branches and leaves are mostly used in the pattern, which shows that Hotan is the hometown of melons and fruits. The designs of Rewafu Qin and Dutar Qin are common, showing the characteristics of Hotan's hometown of song and dance. In addition, there are many ornaments that Uygur women in Hotan like. Some patterns are intuitive and easy to identify. Some patterns use strong artistic deformation, so it is not so easy to identify them. Patterns are generally arranged from top to bottom according to rules, such as petals, fences, solo pipa and earrings combined into a group with tassels on both sides.
In Hotan, the description of Hotan silk quoted by Kuropatkin is the general name of silk, and "Bekasafu" means "Baksaimu", which refers to plaid silk with elegant color, and it is rarely made into religious people's loops (long skirts). Sha Yi is white silk. These kinds of silk are all made by the same method, and they are collectively called Eitle silk in Hotan. Therefore, it can be considered as a collateral variety of Yishenxing silk.
Most counties in Hotan produce Yishenxing silk. The most concentrated is Jiya Township, Luopu County, near the Yulong Kashi River. It is a sericulture producing area and is also considered as the center producing area of Astraea silk. Almost every household in this town can weave the star silk of righteousness. When a man marries a woman, many families often have to ask if the other person can weave the righteous gods and the skills. After 1950s, the spinning wheel was gradually replaced by the machine in Hetian silk reeling. However, most of the raw silk used to make Yishenxing silk is spun on the spinning wheel. Making Yishenxing silk is also a manual operation. A silk loom is more than one person's height, which is very difficult to make and requires both hands and feet. This pattern is made by tie-dyeing method. According to the needs of the pattern, the skilled craftsman uses corn to immerse the warp Pi Zha in the dye solution of minerals and plants for coloring, and arranges it on the loom according to the pattern, so that the impregnated silk thread presents a color halo from deep to light, and the producer quickly strings the warp with the weaving shuttle in his hand. In recent years, although the number of silk produced by machines is absolutely dominant, it can also weave the effect of Yishenxing silk, but it is difficult to compare with the handmade Aitler in intuition, texture and feel. In recent years, chemical fiber yarns have appeared in the market. Some people printed Atletico patterns on plain silk. Some patterns fade after washing, and the price is relatively low. Yishenxing folk silk craftsmen strictly abide by the traditional technological process and are meticulous, which has won credibility in the market. 1992 at the Urumqi border trade fair, the costumes of Uighur etiquette ladies were all made of Yishenxing silk in Lopujiya township, which surprised Chinese and foreign merchants and came to negotiate orders.
Hetian Yishenxing Silk has a bright future.